Month: February 2016

Day 19: Park Güell

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The magic kingdom inside Park Güell.

A person could spend a week in Barcelona chasing the unique designs of architect Antoni Gaudí and not see everything. Of the 19 buildings designed by Gaudí, 12 are in Barcelona proper and seven make up the UNESCO World Heritage collection “Works of Antoni Gaudí.”

We didn’t intend on chasing down Gaudí’s list while in Barcelona, but we ended up seeing three up close and personal. After visiting La Sagrada Familia and Palau Güell, we finished with a day at Park Güell.

The park was another in a series of collaborations between Gaudí and Catalonian entrepreneur Eusebi Güell, intended as a place where Barcelona’s emerging upper-class could build homes and live in a community of shared ideals. For Gaudí, the bare land on Carmel Hill was a blank canvas, a place to explore his artistic tendencies toward harmony between nature and architecture.

Walking into Park Güell is akin to stepping into the board game Candy Land. The first two buildings—the Porter’s Lodge and the Porter’s House—look like they were plucked from the Gumdrop Forest with their whipped frosting roofs placed atop cake-colored brick and decorated with mosaic tile sprinkles.

From the second floor of the Porter’s Lodge, you can look down over the Dragon’s Stairway and the Hypostyle Room. The “dragon” is actually a very large sculpture of a salamander, again adorned in broken tile mosaic. The Hypostyle is a large covered area, the roof held in place by groupings of massive columns. Several large spaces were left inside with the intent of setting up a marketplace for the park’s residents.

Atop the Hypostyle’s roof, Gaudí built a public square. Plaça de la Natura is outlined by a tile-covered bench that curves in and out around the entire edge of the square. From the front edge, you can look out over Barcelona’s Gràcia district all the way to the Mediterranean Sea.

Heading downhill from the Nature Square, you walk through the crown jewel of Gaudí’s attempt to blend nature and structure. The Washerwoman Portico, named for the single carving of a woman carrying a laundry basket on her head, looks as if it could have occurred naturally. Rough, slanted stone columns frame a long, curved walkway. Standing inside the walkway, it appears as if you’re in the trough of a crashing wave.

The park surrounding the monument area is much more simple. The winding path climbs up and down Carmel Hill, offering many quiet moments in stark contrast to the busier interior. The largest crowd will be found on the top of Turó de les Tres Cruces—Hill of Three Crosses—chasing a free view of the city.

With less than 24 hours remaining in Barcelona, we headed for the city’s famous beaches. After a couple cool and drizzly days, the weather gods smiled upon us with a sunny, 70 degree day and the locals and tourists alike were taking advantage. Barceloneta, the main beach along the coastline, was full of sunsoakers, bicyclists, joggers and even rollerbladers (can’t remember the last time I saw an unironic rollerblader in the US). We caught the sunset as it faded away from the Mediterranean and headed back toward the city.

After one last tapas dinner, we worked our way through the Gothic Quarter back toward our apartment when the sound of drums caught our attention once again. We wandered into the parade of Correfoc dels Diables Petits or Fireworks of the Little Devils.

Kids of all ages, dressed in devil costumes and trailed by large bands of drummers, ran down the side of La Ramblas carrying sticks with sparking fireworks attached to the top. When lit by a “responsible” adult, the firework would spin atop the stick, sending a shower of sparks flying into the crowd.

We watched for a few minutes before letting go of Barcelona and heading back to our apartment. The sound of drums and general cheer carried on until early the next morning; a great way to remember our time in Catalonia.

The Porter's Lodge at Park Güell.
The Porter’s Lodge at Park Güell.
The salamander statue on the Dragon's Stairway at Park Güell.
The salamander statue on the Dragon’s Stairway at Park Güell.
Looking down from Plaça de la Natura at the Porter's Lodge and House. The district of Gràcia and the Mediterranean Sea can be seen in the distance.
Looking down from Plaça de la Natura at the Porter’s Lodge and House. The district of Gràcia and the Mediterranean Sea can be seen in the distance.
The Portico of the Washerwoman.
The Portico of the Washerwoman.
The street-facing side of the Porter's Lodge.
The street-facing side of the Porter’s Lodge.
The sunset from Barceloneta.
The sunset from Barceloneta.

Click any photo in the gallery to see a larger version and start a slideshow view

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 18: Festival of Saint Eulalia

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Saint Eulalia, or Laie, wades through the crowds at the end of the procession through the narrow city streets.

It’s not entirely fair to fall in love with a city when it is at its best, but those are cards we were dealt with Barcelona. The already-lively capital of Catalonia was flooded with summertime levels of tourists thanks to the weeklong celebration of Les Festes de Santa Eulàlia.

Saint Eulalia earned her sainthood at age 13 after being tortured by the Romans for refusing to renounce her religion. The festival that honors her focuses on events for and involving children.

We could hear the procession of drums from a block away outside our window on the second morning of the festival. We gulped down the rest of our breakfast, threw on some shoes and chased after the party. While we never caught up with the parade, we did catch the pinnacle of the Diada Castellera, the building of human pyramids, performed by Els Falcons de Barcelona. The pyramid peaked at nine rows, with each row of people getting younger and younger until finally a boy of maybe 6 or 7-years-old caught his balance atop the mass of humanity.

After lunch in the quirky Plaça de George Orwell—named in honor of the English writer who joined Spain’s Independent Labor Party and fought during the Spanish Civil War—we visited another of architect Antoni Gaudí’s masterpieces, Palau Güell.

Part of the UNESCO collection of Gaudí’s works around Barcelona, the mansion was designed for industrialist Eusebi Güell in the 1880s. The home is situated in the middle of a neighborhood of shops and apartments, but the understated facade doesn’t seem entirely out of place save for the large, arched doors with their intricate cast-iron work, a Gaudí signature.

Once inside, the scope of what Gaudí accomplished on the small footprint of land begins to take shape. A large stable sits below ground for the horses who would pull carriages from the street-level entrance. The great room has a soaring spire for a ceiling with perforations meant to invoke the feeling of being under the stars. The perfectly arranged architectural elements throughout create both space and comfort.

The more eccentric pieces of Gaudí’s work were saved for the outside. The wooden shades on the back bay windows recall steampunk design. On the roof, 20 chimneys covered in brightly-colored mosaic tile rise like a technicolor forest. The near-360° views of Barcelona are impressive.

That evening, we headed back into town toward Plaça de Sant Jaume where a small orchestra was set up on the stage. Barcelona’s older population had gathered, creating large dance circles. While the music played, everyone in the circle held hands and performed a simple box step dance that became more intense as the music crescendoed. When the song finished, everyone would cheer, greetings were exchanged and everyone moved on to another circle to begin the next dance with new neighbors.

Soon, the festival’s main event got underway with The Walk and Dance of Laie. The giant puppets we saw on our first day lined up in Plaça de Pi, giving festival goers a chance to see the gegantes up close. Local volunteers served sweet bread and warm chocolate pudding to anyone who was interested.

The puppet crew then mounted up, climbing underneath the puppets, and started the procession through town toward Plaça de Sant Jaume where they waded through the tightly-packed crowd.

The event ended with a light show broadcast on the city hall building, kicking off the second-half of the evening. LLUM BCN featured light installations at 21 different locations throughout the Gothic Quarter. The lines were a hundred deep at each, so we just watched from afar.

We finished our night in true Barcelona fashion, settling in for tapas around 10 p.m. before making our way home for the night. Barcelona was quickly moving up our list of favorite places in the world.

A bridge between two buildings as we approached Plaça de Sant Jaume in Barcelona's Gothic Quarter.
A bridge between two buildings as we approached Plaça de Sant Jaume in Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter.

Click any photo in the gallery to see a larger version and start a slideshow view

Our lunchtime view in Placa de George Orwell. The English author joined the Spanish militia in the 1930s to fight fascism in Barcelona, an era he chronicled in his book Homage to Catalonia.
Our lunchtime view in Placa de George Orwell. The English author joined the Spanish militia in the 1930s to fight fascism in Barcelona, an era he chronicled in his book Homage to Catalonia.
The bay windows at Palau Güell.
The bay windows at Palau Güell.
The extravagant interior at Palau Güell.
The extravagant interior at Palau Güell.
The roof of Palau Güell with mosaic tile work on the chimney and the Güell name written in ironwork on the rail.
The roof of Palau Güell with mosaic tile work on the chimney and the Güell name written in ironwork on the rail.
The main spire at Palau Güell acts as a ventilation system and lets natural light enter the house.
The main spire at Palau Güell acts as a ventilation system and lets natural light enter the house.
Dancing in Plaça de Sant Jaume.
Dancing in Plaça de Sant Jaume.
The Festival of Saint Eulalia in Barcelona, Spain.
The Festival of Saint Eulalia in Barcelona, Spain.
One of the 21 light installations that made up the LLUM BCN Festival.
One of the 21 light installations that made up the LLUM BCN Festival.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 17: La Sagrada Familia

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La Sagrada Familia in Barcelona.

Being a lifelong Spanish student and teacher, I had always heard about the Basílica of the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona and I certainly had an idea of Gaudí’s life works and contributions to Barcelona. But, as we’ve been on the road a couple of weeks and seen many cathedrals, including St. Peter’s in the Vatican and Notre Dame in Paris, we were coming into Barcelona a little wary of touring yet another church. How good could it be, we wondered.

On a rainy Thursday, we purchased our tickets online and set off. Neither of us had looked at pictures online or had any idea what to expect. In retrospect, I’m glad because pictures (including ours) don’t do it justice.

Coming out of the metro, the cathedral was behind us. The first glimpse was…wow, immense, where the hell are we? Is this really our life right now? (A question asked frequently in the last few weeks). I’ve heard the towers described as “bony” and “melting ice cream cones” and both seem somehow appropriate. It was drizzling when we arrived, which I think helped with the crowds. We walked right through the reserved online tickets entrance. So far, so great!

After taking in the exterior facade, we walked through the ornate doorway. I was instantly transfixed. The white, scalloped columns extending upwards (towards Heaven?) first caught my eye. And the play with color and light. Gaudí was not afraid of color; my kind of man. The inside is so special. Like a dream.

To the right, is Christ on a cross, suspended under a lighted halo of an “umbrella.” To one side is Mary and the other, Joseph. The three comprise the Holy/Sacred Family, also known as the Sagrada Familia.

A little bit into our audio tour, we stopped to take in the main altar, which includes the aforementioned trio. I found a quiet place nestled in a column facing the front. The organ music. The light. The color. The shapes. The height. It was just too much. I burst into tears. Happy tears. There are places in the world that remind you how small we are, how fragile life is and how unimportant our problems really are. I was so moved.

We spent about four hours in the church and I could have spent more. We stayed until closing when everyone had left and just took in the silence. Finally, about 20 minutes after six, we were ushered out. We took a brief detour to the crypt of the church, which was still open to the public. This is where Mass is held for Catholic Church goers and it includes the tomb of Antoni Gaudí.

I can’t wait to come back in 2026, when the exterior construction of the church will be finished. Though the inside is the real treasure.

Looking toward the main alter.
Looking toward the main altar.
Looking up at the unfinished tower above the main alter.
Looking up at the unfinished tower above the main altar.
The sunlight shines through the various colors of stained glass creates a prism inside the cathedral. Gaudi made sure light would play a major role in the design of La Sagrada Familia.
The sunlight shines through the various colors of stained glass creates a prism inside the cathedral. Gaudi made sure light would play a major role in the design of La Sagrada Familia.
The columns holding up the roof were designed to look like trees with the ceiling decor resembling palm fronds.
The columns holding up the roof were designed to look like trees with the ceiling decor resembling palm fronds.
Stained glass on the left side of the cathedral.
Stained glass on the left side of the cathedral.
The cathedral is still a work in progress, as it has been since 1882. The stained glass has yet to be installed on the circular windows beside the alter.
The cathedral is still a work in progress, as it has been since 1882. The stained glass has yet to be installed on the circular windows beside the altar.
Outside, the neo-gothic cathedral reflects in the windows of the modern souvenir shop.
Outside, the neo-gothic cathedral reflects in the windows of the modern souvenir shop.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 16: Barcelona

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Barcelona's El Prat airport.

Our week in Paris ended at an obscene hour as our alarm began its painful chime at 4 a.m. We successfully navigated two bus transfers and managed to see a nearly-unobstructed view of the Arc de Triomphe (there’s still quite a bit of traffic on Champs-Élysées at 5 a.m.) en route to the airport. We watched the sunrise as we boarded our flight to Barcelona.

The early morning flight meant we had a few hours to pass before checking into our Airbnb. We stashed our bags in a local locker facility, grabbed lunch and headed out on the town, starting on La Rambla.

La Rambla is the main drag for tourists in Barcelona. The tree- and vendor-lined pedestrian street runs for a mile from Plaça de Catalunya to a monument of Christopher Columbus looking out over the Mediterranean Sea.

Our first stop was the La Virreina Image Centre. We lucked out in our timing, arriving on the weekend of the hugely popular Festival of Saint Eulalia. The center was displaying the giant puppets that would walk the streets of Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter in just a couple nights. Upstairs, an exhibition of Albert Serra’s SINGULARITY featured eight rooms, each with part of a film playing. It was weird…

Along the way, we stopped into the Mercado de La Boqueria, a sprawling food market with butcher shops, seafood stands and sit-down restaurant stalls. If you can’t find it here, you probably don’t need it.

By early afternoon, our apartment was ready and we met our host in the El Rambla neighborhood near the El Gat sculpture by Fernando Botero. Botero’s fat cat has been a Barcelona mainstay since 1987, but moved around town trying to find a home. The statue, which is the size of a midsize sedan, finally found its permanent place in 2003 and has become a popular meeting place for the locals.

The early flight caught up with us and we bookended our day by watching the sunset from our balcony before calling it an early night… the only one we would have in Barcelona.

Sunrise at Paris's Beauvais Airport.
Sunrise at Paris’s Beauvais Airport.
The gigantes y cabezudos (giants and big heads) of Barcelona would be featured throughout the weekend during the Festival of Saint Eulalia.
The gigantes y cabezudos (giants and big heads) of Barcelona would be featured throughout the weekend during the Festival of Saint Eulalia.
Me and the giants for some perspective.
Me and the giants for some perspective.
The banner for the Festival of Saint Eulalia.
The banner for the Festival of Saint Eulalia.
Barcelona loves its futbol team! Barça, Barça, Baaarça!
Barcelona loves its futbol team! Barça, Barça, Baaarça!
The entryway to Mercado de La Boqueria.
The entryway to Mercado de La Boqueria.
A small fruit and vegetable market set up behind Mercado de La Boqueria.
A small fruit and vegetable market set up behind Mercado de La Boqueria.
El Gat, Barcelona's favorite fat cat.
El Gat, Barcelona’s favorite fat cat.
Sunset on our first night in Barcelona.
Sunset on our first night in Barcelona.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 15: The Sweetest City

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The window of Jean-Paul Hévin's shop in Paris.

On our last day in Paris, we had to work up the courage to brave the worst weather we’d had in the first two weeks of our trip. Heavy rain and high winds were in the forecast and would play a part in the day.

We started by heading way out to Paris’s 11th arrondissement for what might be the city’s best crepes at West Country Girl. The set menu offers a savory crepe and a sweet crepe, both made with buckwheat flour, and a cider for a reasonable price. We both had variations on an egg and cheese crepe for our savory choices and chose blackberry jam and WCG’s homemade salted caramel for our sweet crepes. Everything was excellent, especially the salted caramel, and the dry crisp cider was the perfect side.

After lunch, in which we dodged most of a passing storm, we headed back to the metro station when we accidentally stumbled on Père Lachaise Cemetery, the famous final resting place of author Oscar Wilde and The Doors frontman Jim Morrison among other notables. The cemetery is usually open to the public, but entrance was restricted to funerals only that day due to the high winds creating a danger of falling branches.

Thwarted by the weather, we took the train back into the city center to follow one of ChocoParis.com‘s walking tours of the city’s most popular chocolate shops. From the Louvre to Arc de Triomphe, we covered 2.6 miles visiting two chocolate shops and two macaron shops.

At Michel Cluizel’s shop we sampled a few of the single-origin chocolates. Cluizel has been making chocolate since 1948 and is one of the few chocolatiers in the world who processes its own cacao.

Our next stop was Jean-Paul Hévin’s shop. Hévin is widely considered as the top chocolatier in Paris and has five shops in Japan and a pair in Hong Kong in addition to his four Paris locations. The two-floor flagship store features a variety of pastries and chocolates downstairs with a tea room serving his famous hot chocolate upstairs. We bought a sampling of chocolates infused with Earl Gray tea-infused, pistachio and coffee and headed upstairs. We skipped the hot chocolate since the heat was cranked up way too high in the tea room, but the chocolates were delicious.

Further down the road, we walked into Pierre Hermé. The vibe was more high-end jewelry shop, but the diamonds were replaced with chocolate and macarons. Hermé, a fourth-generation pastry chef, is famous for macarons, a multi-layered, cream-filled, merengue cookie. We went with the favorites—milk chocolate and passion fruit, pistachio and raspberry and a salted caramel. These were my favorites of the day thanks to the light, fluffy cookie layer and rich fillings.

A short walk away is Hermé’s competitor for macaron dominance, Ladurée. The shop has been a mainstay in Paris since the 1860s. Credited as the inventor of the macaron, the shop offers a variety of different flavors. We tried the cherry almond, pistachio, rose and salted caramel. Viktoria favored these over Hermé’s, so I guess the macarons war will continue to rage on.

Unfortunately, the weather turned to a steady rain as we left Ladurée and we missed the final two stops—Patrick Roger and La Maison du Chocolat—as we ducked for cover from the rain. We did eventually reach our end goal, the Arc de Triomphe. A memorial to France’s soldiers in the Revolution and Napoleonic wars, it marked the end of our battle vs. the weather and our time in Paris.

Michel Cluizel's shop on Rue Saint-Honore in Paris's upscale shopping district. The chocolatier specializes in single-origin chocolate and is one of the few chocolate makers in the world to process its own cacao.
Michel Cluizel’s shop on Rue Saint-Honore in Paris’s upscale shopping district. The chocolatier specializes in single-origin chocolate and is one of the few chocolate makers in the world to process its own cacao.
The single serving chocolates at Jean-Paul Hevin.
The single serving chocolates at Jean-Paul Hevin.
Macarons at Pierre Hermé
Macarons at Pierre Hermé
Macarons at Ladurée
Macarons at Ladurée
Photos of the Arc de Triomphe are always tightly cropped because it sits in one of Paris's busiest intersections. All our photos are filled with cars and white delivery vans!
Photos of the Arc de Triomphe are always tightly cropped because it sits in one of Paris’s busiest intersections. All our photos are filled with cars and white delivery vans!

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 14: Montmartre

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The Basilica of Sacré-Cœur, the highest point in Paris.

For us, traveling is about trying to find a balance. You can’t go to Paris and not see the Eiffel Tower or the Louvre, but our favorite days are when we get off the main tourist trail and into the cities we visit.

On day 14, our fourth full day in Paris, we walked through the Montmartre neighborhood near our apartment. The area is best known for the long, winding hill leading through a historic district up to the white-domed Basillica of Sacré-Cœur (pictured) or as home to the Moulin Rouge cabaret club, featured in the film of the same name.

We started from our apartment at the bottom of the hill, making a quick detour for lunch and sweets along the way. The first stop was the Cafe des 2 Moulins (Two Windmills Cafe) named for the famous Moulin Rouge and Moulin de la Galette nearby. The cafe had become a favorite tourist spot since being featured in the movie Amelie.

Further up the hill, we passed the former apartment of Theo van Gogh. Theo allowed his brother Vincent, at the time a struggling artist who couldn’t afford his rent in Belgium, to live and work in the apartment. Vincent developed his signature style during his time in the Montmartre apartment.

Today, the most famous windmill in Paris is the neon one above the Moulin Rogue, but in the 1600-1700s, more than 30 windmills powered the flour and grape mills on the hill. Built in 1622, Moulin de la Galette is the last remaining functional mill. Just down the hill, Le Moulin du Radet, built in 1717, has been converted to a restaurant.

We turned the corner past one of Paris’s oldest cabaret clubs, Au Lapin Agile where Picasso hung out at the turn of the 20th century, and came upon a small vineyard. Clos Montmartre produces enough grapes for about 600 bottles of wine annually, but was originally planted to stop the growth from urban development in the surrounding area from creeping further into the residential property.

After running a gauntlet of caricature artists on the souvenir shop-lined street of Rue du Chevalier de la Barre, we finally arrived at Sacré-Cœur. The highest point in Paris, the 100-year-old church offers sweeping views of the city below. We ducked inside the cathedral for a look around just as a huge wind and rainstorm passed through, the clear blue skies we’d enjoyed just moments before replaced with menacing, dark clouds.

After the weather passed, we began our descent down the hill. We walked through the small Place du Tertre where Picasso and Renoir honed their crafts as starving artists. Local artists can still be found in the area now populated with cafes and shops.

As we returned to low ground, we made one last stop near the Abbesses metro stop. Many of the city’s metro stops still have the Art Deco-style signs indicating the entrance to the underground, but Abbesses is unique. Its canopy is one of two remaining glass and cast-iron designs of Art Nouveau architect Hector Guimard from the early 1900s.

Some epic street art at the foot of Monmartre.
Some epic street art at the foot of Monmartre.
Amelie's workplace, Cafe des 2 Moulins, on Montmartre's Rue Lepic.
Amelie’s workplace, Cafe des 2 Moulins, on Montmartre’s Rue Lepic.
House 54 on Rue Lepic once belonged to Vincent van Gogh's brother Theo, who allowed the struggling artist to live and work there while developing his signature style.
House 54 on Rue Lepic once belonged to Vincent van Gogh’s brother Theo, who allowed the struggling artist to live and work there while developing his signature style.
Moulin de la Galette, built in the 1600s, is Paris's last functioning mill from the era.
Moulin de la Galette, built in the 1600s, is Paris’s last functioning mill from the era.
The neighborhood vineyards at Clos Montmartre were planted to keep urban sprawl away from the homes. It produces just a few hundred bottles of wine, most sold at an annual festival.
The neighborhood vineyards at Clos Montmartre were planted to keep urban sprawl away from the homes. It produces just a few hundred bottles of wine, most sold at an annual festival.
A view of Paris from the base of Sacré-Cœur.
A view of Paris from the base of Sacré-Cœur.
The shops of Place du Tertre. Folklore says the word "bistro" was coined here by Russian soldiers ordering food at the cafe who would shout "bystro," the Russian word for "quickly."
The shops of Place du Tertre. Folklore says the word “bistro” was coined here by Russian soldiers ordering food at the cafe who would shout “bystro,” the Russian word for “quickly.”
The glass canopy at the Abbesses metro station.
The glass canopy at the Abbesses metro station.
The Wall of Love is an art installation near Abbesses. It features the phrase "I love you" 311 times in 250 languages.
The Wall of Love is an art installation near Abbesses. It features the phrase “I love you” 311 times in 250 languages.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 13: Paris For Free

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Auguste Rodin's The Thinker at the Rodin Museum.

Paris can be an expensive city, but if you look hard enough, there are deals to be had. On day 13, we set a goal of touring the city without spending any money, just to see if it could be done. We cheated a bit going in knowing that the first Sunday of the month is free museum day!

We started at the Louvre, the world’s largest museum best known as the home of Leonardo Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. We arrived just before opening and only had to wait 10-15 minutes to get through the queue. You don’t really “do” the mega-sized museum in a day… you have to have a plan. Our plan was to head straight for the Mona Lisa along with everyone else.

Most photos of the painting in the museum are taken from behind a large group of other visitors, but after a couple minutes of patient waiting, we worked our way right up to the rope that separates the masses from the masterpiece. It’s smaller than I expected, made more so by being the only item on the giant wall in the middle of the room. Yet, the sense of seeing something special looms large.

The Louvre is packed with works by great artists, but the creator of its second-most famous work is unknown. Venus de Milo was crafted in Greece somewhere around 130-100 B.C., likely in one of the sculpture workshops of the time. It was discovered in the ruins on the island of Melos in 1820 by a peasant and gifted to Louis XVIII the next year. Theories abound to who might have created it, but the answer is still a mystery.

We had a quick picnic in the park, basking in the first decent weather day since we’d arrived in Paris, then trekked across the Seine River to the Rodin Museum, an indoor/outdoor collection of the sculptor’s best-known pieces. Perhaps his most famous piece is one of my favorites, Le Pensuer or The Thinker, simply a man with his chin rested on his fist, deep in thought.

There are two versions at the museum and 28 castings around the world. Here, the largest is located outside in the sculpture garden while a much-smaller version sits inside the museum. I was actually quite disappointed by the small version and the rest of the museum didn’t do much for either of us. Seeing the outdoor version was definitely worth the trip though.

Worn out, but determined to take full advantage of free museum day, we walked back toward the river to Musee d’Orsay. With all due respect to the Louvre, the Orsay is Paris’s finest museum. It’s a perfect size with a well-balanced collection of old and new works from some of history’s greatest artists.

The second and fifth floors are the highlight, featuring a large collection of works from Monet, van Gogh, Degas, Manet and Cezanne among so many others. It’s organized by art movement, complete with descriptions in English—something the Louvre sorely lacks.

The center gallery on the main floor is lined with sculptures, including a prominently-placed version of Auguste Bartholdi’s Statue of Liberty. The statue would be gifted in large form by France to the United States in 1885, placed at New York’s Ellis Island to welcome immigrants from Europe to America. The Orsay’s version was commissioned by the artist himself in 1889 in hopes it would be sold as a museum piece.

We made it back to our apartment after a long day with exactly zero euros spent while seeing some of the world’s most famous artwork in some of its most renowned museums. Not a bad day’s work!

Looking back at the Louvre from the left bank of the Seine. The museum was originally a fortress and the center of French politics until Louis XIV moved the government to Versailles.
Looking back at the Louvre from the left bank of the Seine. The museum was originally a fortress and the center of French politics until Louis XIV moved the government to Versailles.
The glass pyramids outside of the Louvre were designed by I.M. Pei as a way to move the museum's entrance underground and alleviate the masses of people flowing through the old, small entrances. They are now works of art in their own right.
The glass pyramids outside of the Louvre were designed by I.M. Pei as a way to move the museum’s entrance underground and alleviate the masses of people flowing through the old, small entrances. They are now works of art in their own right.
The Mona Lisa has been behind bulletproof glass for several decades due to multiple attempts at vandalism. The painting has been at the Louvre since the end of the French Revolution but for a brief time spent hanging in Napoleon's bedroom.
The Mona Lisa has been behind bulletproof glass for several decades due to multiple attempts at vandalism. The painting has been at the Louvre since the end of the French Revolution but for a brief time spent hanging in Napoleon’s bedroom.
Leonardo Da Vinci's famous Mona Lisa.
Leonardo Da Vinci’s famous Mona Lisa.
Venus de Milo at the Louvre.
Venus de Milo at the Louvre.
A re-creation of several rooms of Napoleon's apartment has been built in great detail at the Louvre. The parlor was among the most ornate rooms on display.
A re-creation of several rooms of Napoleon’s apartment has been built in great detail at the Louvre. The parlor was among the most ornate rooms on display.
Looking up at the Louvre's Richelieu wing through the glass pyramid.
Looking up at the Louvre’s Richelieu wing through the glass pyramid.
Neo-impressionists used a style called Pointillism, combining several small dots or very short brush strokes to create an image that lacks detail up close, but becomes sharp and luminous from a distance.
Neo-impressionists used a style called Pointillism, combining several small dots or very short brush strokes to create an image that lacks detail up close, but becomes sharp and luminous from a distance.
One of two self-portraits by Vincent van Gogh on display at the Orsay. The museum has 25 of the artist's pieces, including one from his Starry Night series.
One of two self-portraits by Vincent van Gogh on display at the Orsay. The museum has 25 of the artist’s pieces, including one from his Starry Night series.
The naturalism movement created photo-realistic paintings in large-scale. Some were so lifelike, the brush strokes weren't visible until you were right up on the painting.
The naturalism movement created photo-realistic paintings in large-scale. Some were so lifelike, the brush strokes weren’t visible until you were right up on the painting.
One of Claude Monet's famous Water Lillies series at the Orsay.
One of Claude Monet’s famous Water Lillies series at the Orsay.
Monet's Poppy Fields is one of Viktoria's favorites.
Monet’s Poppy Fields is one of Viktoria’s favorites.
Post-Impressionist Paul Cezanne was famous for his still-life works, often involving food. Many of his works are on display at the Orsay.
Post-Impressionist Paul Cezanne was famous for his still-life works, often involving food. Many of his works are on display at the Orsay.
Edgar Degas was both a talented painter and sculptor. Degas's three-foot tall bronze sculpture of a young ballerina stands near this painting of young dancers. More than half of his works featured dancers.
Edgar Degas was both a talented painter and sculptor. Degas’s three-foot tall bronze sculpture of a young ballerina stands near this painting of young dancers. More than half of his works featured dancers.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 12: The Palace of Versailles

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The outer gates at the Palace of Versailles

Located about 11 miles outside of Paris lies a monument to the opulence of Louis XIV. The Palace of Versailles was built in 1623 for Louis XIII as a simple brick and stone hunting lodge. But during a 20-year period in the 1660s-70s, the son turned it into an ornate mansion with a very-roughly estimated budget of $2 billion US dollars in today’s money.

A simple self-guided tour is a whole day affair. In what’s becoming a theme for us, it was made longer by a morning train delay that left us stuck in Paris for an extra hour-plus. Arriving later in the morning, we joined the throngs of Saturday tourists awaiting entry.

An audio guide was provided for free, providing a lot of useful information about the various rooms while also painting a picture of what daily life might have been like for the royal family and the thousands of courtiers living on the grounds.

Versailles quickly became the center of French politics until the monarchy was overthrown during the French Revolution and upkeep of the palace was neglected. Various restoration projects during the early 1800s began to restore the palace, but it wasn’t until the efforts of King Louis Philippe I to turn the palace into a public museum that modern-day Versailles began to take shape.

Visiting Versailles from Paris

We had a hard time getting good directions from our apartment in Montmartre. Every website suggested heading to the nearest RER C station, which we did. However, the RER C line is a tangled web and our nearest stop required the aforementioned painful transfer at Champs de Mars – Tour Eiffel.

If you’re staying in one of the main tourist centers of Paris, head for one of the stations between Champs de Mars and Saint-Michel – Notre-Dame bound for Versailles Chateau – Rive Gauche. The palace entrance is a 5-10 minute walk from the station.

The gold-encrusted facade of The Palace of Versailles.
The gold-encrusted facade of The Palace of Versailles.
Twin columned buildings stand on both sides of the courtyard at the palace's entrance. The inscription reads "To All the Glories of France," added at the request of King Louis-Philippe when the palace was converted to a museum in 1830.
Twin columned buildings stand on both sides of the courtyard at the palace’s entrance. The inscription reads “To All the Glories of France,” added at the request of King Louis-Philippe when the palace was converted to a museum in 1830.
Prior to the French Revolution, it was believed that the king was chosen by God. Louis XIV had the Royal Chapel built to allow the entire royal court to attend daily mass.
Prior to the French Revolution, it was believed that the king was chosen by God. Louis XIV had the Royal Chapel built to allow the entire royal court to attend daily mass.
A bust of Louis XIV sits in the Bull's Eye Salon of the King's Chamber.
A bust of Louis XIV sits in the Bull’s Eye Salon of the King’s Chamber.
The extravagant Mercury Salon in the Grand Apartment was more often home to gaming tables than sleepover guests.
The extravagant Mercury Salon in the Grand Apartment was more often home to gaming tables than sleepover guests.
Looking up at the chandelier of the War Salon. The murals on the ceiling illustrate centuries of French military conquests.
Looking up at the chandelier of the War Salon. The murals on the ceiling illustrate centuries of French military conquests.
The Diana Salon, named for the goddess of hunting, served as Louis XIV's billiards room. Two seating areas were reserved for ladies of the court to cheer on the king as he played.
The Diana Salon, named for the goddess of hunting, served as Louis XIV’s billiards room. Two seating areas were reserved for ladies of the court to cheer on the king as he played.
The 240-feet long Hall of Mirrors was a passageway for visitors waiting for an audience with the king. The ostentatiousness of the hall was intentional as visiting foreign leaders would have to make their way through this show of French power.
The 240-feet long Hall of Mirrors was a passageway for visitors waiting for an audience with the king. The ostentatiousness of the hall was intentional as visiting foreign leaders would have to make their way through this show of French power.
Detail of one of the archways in the palace. The amount of work that went into just the decoration of the palace is mind-boggling.
Detail of one of the archways in the palace. The amount of work that went into just the decoration of the palace is mind-boggling.
The Coronation Room holds three massive paintings, including a copy of "The Coronation of Napoleon." The original once hung in Versailles, but is now installed at the Louvre. My favorite part of this painting is the depiction of Napoleon's mother in the center. She declined to attend the garish ceremony, but was painted in at her son's request.
The Coronation Room holds three massive paintings, including a copy of “The Coronation of Napoleon.” The original once hung in Versailles, but is now installed at the Louvre. My favorite part of this painting is the depiction of Napoleon’s mother in the center. She declined to attend the garish ceremony, but was painted in at her son’s request.
Looking at the palace over the gardens.
Looking at the palace over the gardens.
A view of the massive property from behind the palace looking toward the Grand Canal.
A view of the massive property from behind the palace looking toward the Grand Canal.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 11: Paris

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One of the many stained glass windows depicting various biblical scenes inside the cathedral at Notre-Dame.

Our first real day in Paris was a full one. With some rough weather in the forecast, we wanted to get a few of the outdoor things checked off the list. We used Rick Steves Historic Paris Walk as a rough guide and started off at Notre-Dame.

One of the world’s most famous churches, Notre-Dame is more than a religious site. It’s dark, gothic 12th century architecture is considered to be one of the foremost examples of the style. The flying buttresses that support the east side of the cathedral were among the first of their kind. The various gargoyle and chimera statues served the dual purpose of gothic art and functional water spouts for rain runoff.

Inside, the church is nothing short of magnificent. The soaring ceilings in the center of the cathedral cover an active worshiping center hosting daily masses. The outside hosts several small chapels honoring various Catholic saints via ornate stained glass installations and impressive sculptures.

From there, we walked over to the left bank of the Seine River and through the Latin Quarter. The lively area is filled with small cafes offering full French meals as well as a lot of small Mediterranean food stands with gyros, kebabs and more. The quarter is also home to the Sorbonne (University of Paris) and was given its name during the Middle Ages when Latin was the primary language of academia.

Finally, we walked across Pont Neuf, where the seagulls were busy jockeying for position on the rail to prepare for food dives into the river, and along the Seine’s right bank. Along the way, we passed the Louvre and the Grand Palace before arriving at Paris’s ultimate landmark: the Eiffel Tower.

The Eiffel Tower is one of those things that lives up to the hype. We arrived just a few minutes before dusk, when the lights came on and began to twinkle. Built by architect Gustave Eiffel for the 1889 World’s Fair, it’s now the most-visited paid monument in the world, attracting nearly seven million tourists annually.

The front facade of Notre-Dame features 28 statues of the Kings of Judah, a sculpture of Mary holding baby Jesus in the rose window and the portals of Mary and St. Anne.
The front facade of Notre-Dame features 28 statues of the Kings of Judah, a sculpture of Mary holding baby Jesus in the rose window and the portals of Mary and St. Anne.
One of the many stained glass windows depicting various biblical scenes inside the cathedral at Notre-Dame.
One of the many stained glass windows depicting various biblical scenes inside the cathedral at Notre-Dame.
A chapel behind Notre-Dame's main alter.
A chapel behind Notre-Dame’s main alter.
Notre-Dame's South Rose Window tells the story of the New Testament. It's considered one of the most important pieces of art in all of Christianity.
Notre-Dame’s South Rose Window tells the story of the New Testament. It’s considered one of the most important pieces of art in all of Christianity.
Chimera statues on Notre-Dame's north wall. The statues are part of the gothic-style decor while also serving a functional purpose as rain spouts.
Chimera statues on Notre-Dame’s north wall. The statues are part of the gothic-style decor while also serving a functional purpose as rain spouts.
The east side of Notre-Dame's cathedral is famous for its flying buttress supports, among the first of their kind when originally built in the 1100s.
The east side of Notre-Dame’s cathedral is famous for its flying buttress supports, among the first of their kind when originally built in the 1100s.
Notre-Dame's most famous gargoyle statue is perched on the south side of the front facade.
Notre-Dame’s most famous gargoyle statue is perched on the south side of the front facade.
It's hard to find a gate in Paris that isn't full of locks placed by lovers.
It’s hard to find a gate in Paris that isn’t full of locks placed by lovers.
Pont Neuf is the oldest bridge crossing the Seine, built between 1578 and 1607. The seagulls were swarming the viewpoint, clearly very used to having people around.
Pont Neuf is the oldest bridge crossing the Seine, built between 1578 and 1607. The seagulls were swarming the viewpoint, clearly very used to having people around.
Approaching the Eiffel Tower from the northeast.
Approaching the Eiffel Tower from the northeast.
The Eiffel Tower glittering at night as seen from Champ de Mars.
The Eiffel Tower glittering at night as seen from Champ de Mars.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 10: Parisian Refugees

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Heading out of the train n the middle of the tracks after a train strike stopped us halfway between Charles de Gaulle Airport and Paris.

The morning of day 10 seemed destined for good things. The sun had finally broke through after two cold and foggy days in Bologna. We headed to the airport and caught our flight to Paris relatively hassle-free. When we arrived at Charles de Gaulle Airport, a man filled the air with beautiful piano music in the arrivals lobby. We caught our train and headed for the city.

About halfway to Paris, the train stopped abruptly. An announcement repeated every 5-10 minutes indicating there was an “incident,” but that’s all. After 30 minutes, some passengers began to pry open the doors and make their way down the tracks. A few passengers near us spoke English and tried to keep us and the other new arrivals informed.

After nearly an hour, and many more people voluntarily disembarking, we were told to head for the door. The best information we had was that there was a train strike in solidarity of a few Goodyear Tire employees who were imprisoned for kidnapping their bosses during recent labor negotiations.

We sat at the edge of the opened doors with the other passengers and made the jump down to the rocks on the tracks below. We followed the crowd through the light drizzle to the next station. We caught a tram to another station where the trains were also stopped. As we received directions for a bus to the city, the trains began running again and we finally made it to our destination… about four hours later than we planned.

For us, it was an odd situation, a funny story from our travels. But for many of the Parisians who have suffered horrific things in their city over the last year, it felt like too much to bear. One woman near the door was assisted by other passengers as she suffered a severe panic attack. Other passengers cried openly.

It wasn’t a terrorist attack, but the disruption still provided heroes on the day. One man held back an opening in the fence until all of the passengers, ourselves included, could crawl through and get to the street. Another man led us and a pair of Russian tourists through the next train station, helping us get to the gates. Even the security guard at the station gave us written directions for an alternate route and made sure our tickets would get us all the way to the end. Over the hours, we worked with Italians, Spaniards and French passengers to make our way, piecing together our various languages to come up with a plan.

Blue skies at the airport in Bologna.
Blue skies at the airport in Bologna.
Passengers making the few foot jump from the train to the tracks below, most packing luggage from the airport.
Passengers making the few foot jump from the train to the tracks below, most packing luggage from the airport.
Passengers walking alongside the tracks.
Passengers walking alongside the tracks.
A man holds the fence back so people can get out to the main road.
A man holds the fence back so people can get out to the main road.
Finally in our apartment with a view of the famous Moulin Rouge, the craziness of the day finally behind us.
Finally in our apartment with a view of the famous Moulin Rouge, the craziness of the day finally behind us.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe