Month: July 2016

Fort McHenry: The Birth of a National Anthem

by
Looking back toward Fort McHenry from the cannon mounts near the Patapsco River.

Growing up in the Pacific Northwest, American colonial history is an afterthought. Our history is mostly natural or belonging to the region’s Native American tribes. But on the east coast, the birth of our country is on full display in every city and neighborhood. The backdrops of key moments in our nation’s history are now national parks, museums and monuments.

Situated on Baltimore’s Locust Point jutting into the Patapsco River, Fort McHenry is one of those places. The star-shaped fort played a major role in the War of 1812, but it is best known as the inspiration for “The Star-Spangled Banner.”

Over two days in September 1813, soldiers held off the mighty British naval fleet in the Battle of Baltimore. The standoff would become a turning point in the war for the American forces.

A statue of Francis Scott Key, author of the Star-Spangled Banner, greets visitors to Fort McHenry.
A statue of Francis Scott Key, author of the Star-Spangled Banner, greets visitors to Fort McHenry.

A young lawyer named Francis Scott Key witnessed the battle from the sea. Key was sent by President James Madison to negotiate the release of several prisoners, including Maryland physician William Beanes. Beanes was eventually released in part due to his willingness to care for both American and British soldiers during the war. The mission helped set a precedent for the rights of humanitarian workers in war zones.

The original draft of the Star-Spangled Banner in Francis Scott Key's own handwriting is on display at the Fort McHenry visitor center.
The original draft of the Star-Spangled Banner in Francis Scott Key’s own handwriting is on display at the Fort McHenry visitor center.

On the morning of September 14, 1813, the results of the battle were still unknown. In the “dawn’s early light,” Key watched as the giant garrison flag—now on display at the National Museum of American History in Washington D.C.—was raised from the heart of Fort McHenry, indicating the fort had survived the battle. Inspired, he jotted the first draft of what would become The Star-Spangled Banner.

Did you know? The Star-Spangled Banner is sung to the tune of “To Anacreon in Heaven,” the official song of an 18th-century London gentleman’s club who gathered weekly for concerts, dinner and a lot of drinking. 

The garrison flag flies in the courtyard of Fort McHenry. The flag has 15 stars and 15 stripes, representing each of the colonies at the time. It was the only version of the flag with more than 13 stripes.
The garrison flag flies in the courtyard of Fort McHenry. The flag has 15 stars and 15 stripes, representing each of the colonies at the time. It was the only version of the flag with more than 13 stripes.

Today, the story of America’s national anthem is the main draw for visitors to the fort. The visitor’s center welcomes you with a small museum featuring artifacts from the war and displays about the evolution of the anthem in popular culture. A short movie offers a great crash course about the War of 1812 and how Key’s came to pen the anthem. At the end of the presentation, the screen recedes into the ceiling, revealing a window looking out to the fort and the massive garrison flag waving proudly while the Star-Spangled Banner plays.

During the park ranger-led Flag Talk, participants unfurl and hold a replica of the garrison flag that flies above Fort McHenry. At 30 feet by 42 feet, it required more than 30 people to hold it steady.
During the park ranger-led Flag Talk, participants unfurl and hold a replica of the garrison flag that flies above Fort McHenry. At 30 feet by 42 feet, it required more than 30 people to hold it steady.

After the movie, we stepped into the oppressive summer heat for a Flag Talk. A young park ranger explained the story of the 30-feet by 42-feet flag as the gathered crowd unraveled a full-size replica. Holding the flag in your hands and seeing how many people it takes to keep it aloft is awe-inspiring. It’s a physical reminder of a time when Americans worked together for the survival of our country.

Women dressed in period costumes demonstrate how soldiers would have made dried pasta during the 19th century.
Women dressed in period costumes demonstrate how soldiers would have made dried pasta during the 19th century.

We wandered through the fort itself and watched as history came alive. Most of the buildings are open, including old bomb shelters, barracks and the armory. The claustrophobic feeling of life in the barracks is palpable. The armory building has a slight lean from British bombs. You can look out over the river and see the ghosts of the Royal Navy filling the horizon.

Fort McHenry is a physical reminder of another time. A time when Americans banded together for the common good. It’s a lesson regularly forgotten and relearned in times of tragedy. In these divisive times, it’s a good lesson to keep in mind…

What does the Star-Spangled Banner mean to you? How do you feel when you walk through historic sites like Fort McHenry? Head to the comments section below to take part in the conversation!

If You Go…

Fort McHenry National Monument and Historic Shrine
2400 East Fort Avenue, Baltimore. Follow the Fort McHenry signs on the freeway as many GPS directions are incorrect. Admission to the fort is $10 for adults age 16 and older and is valid for seven days. The visitor center, museum and informational movie appear to be free.

Gear, Tours and Tips: Making the Most of Your Mt. Fuji Climbing Experience

by
A sign pointing toward the trail to Mount Fuji's summit.

Reaching the summit of Japan’s iconic Mount Fuji is often on the short list of activities for visitors, but few realize the small window of opportunity for novice climbers. At more than 12,000 feet of elevation, the terrain is only passable for about 8-10 weeks from mid-July to early-September.

The view of the sunrise from the summit of Mount Fuji makes climbing through the night all worth it.
The view of the sunrise from the summit of Mount Fuji makes climbing through the night all worth it.

Reaching the Top

The top of Japan’s tallest peak can be reached a few different ways, but most climbers attempt to arrive at the summit for the sunrise. Arriving by 4:30 a.m. requires climbing during the middle of the night. While it’s possible to make all of the arrangements yourself, it’s much simpler to book a tour through one of the many companies leading both local and foreign visitors to the top.

We made our summit in August 2014 and chose Willer Express as our travel company. With daily tours departing from near Tokyo’s Shinjuku Station, Willer Express provides bus transportation to and from Fuji’s 5th Station, an English-speaking guide, mountain hut lodging at the 8th Station, three meals and a visit to an onsen (hot springs).

Gear Up

With the 90ºF temperatures of the Tokyo summer, it’s hard to imagine you could be fighting off hypothermia less than 24 hours later. Having the right gear may be the most important consideration in making the climb an enjoyable experience.

Most tour companies offer an affordable gear package, which can be convenient for novice climbers or those traveling light. If you bring your own gear, consider the following items at a minimum:

Lightweight daypack with rain cover. Bring a bag just large enough to carry your gear. From Tokyo to Fuji’s summit, you’ll experience a 40-60ºF decrease in temperature, so you’ll need to be able to swap gear on and off along the way.

Waterproof jacket and pants. When it rains, it pours. Literally. On our summit, it started raining about 20 minutes before we reached the mountain hut at Station 8. By the time we arrived, we were soaked to the bone, even with our rain gear. Hut employees won’t allow you inside until you are dry and will greet you with leaf blowers and towels to keep the rainwater outside.

Waterproof hiking boots/shoes. With the steep ascent and descent, you’ll want properly-fitting hiking shoes with good traction. I’d recommend buying these beforehand and testing them in the wild rather than renting an ill-fitting pair of shoes on the morning of the climb. A pair of gaiters isn’t a terrible idea either to keep rain from entering via the tops of your shoes.

Cold-weather clothing. Poor clothing choices are one of the most common mistakes made by Fuji first-timers. Average temperatures at the summit are around 40ºF, but can feel much closer to freezing due to wind chill and the aforementioned rain. Dress in layers so you can add and remove as needed during the climb.

The terrain on the ascent of Mount Fuji varies from flat, volcanic rock to steep, rocky peaks. The right gear will make your experience all the more enjoyable.
The terrain on the ascent of Mount Fuji varies from flat, volcanic rock to steep, rocky peaks. The right gear will make your experience all the more enjoyable.

Hiking poles. Poles aren’t necessary for the ascent, but will come in handy on the long, steep descent. You can purchase a souvenir wooden pole and can have it stamped at each of Fuji’s stations to mark your progress. Make sure you have gloves if you choose the wooden pole as it’s more for looks than utility.

Hats. You’ll be climbing both in the sun during the day and in the cold at night. Consider a brimmed hat for keeping the sun away and a hat that will cover your ears for early-morning climbing.

Gloves. Bring warm, durable, waterproof gloves with good grip. I had warm gloves, but once they were wet, they were no longer warm. You’ll also be using your hands a lot near the final ascent to the summit, so they’ll need to stand up to sharp rocks.

Mt Fuji Headlamps
The view from our hut window around 1 a.m… a never-ending string of headlamps joining us for the climb to the summit

Headlamp. You’ll need your hands free to navigate the rocks near the summit, making a headlamp a better choice than a handheld flashlight. One of my favorite sights was waking up at the mountain hut at 1:30 a.m. and seeing the endless headlamps coming up the trail behind us.

Sunglasses/sunscreen. Fuji is exposed to all the elements, especially the sun. Bring a good quality sunscreen and UV-blocking sunglasses.

Water and snacks. Our tour company recommended three liters of water per person for the entirity of the climb. You can carry it all with you or bring one and purchase additional bottles at stations along the way. While it’s more economical to bring your own, it might be worth the extra yen to lighten your load.

Change of clothes. Bring a change of clothing and shoes, especially if you choose a package that ends with an onsen visit. The ride back to Tokyo will be much more pleasant in a clean outfit.

Japanese yen. Mount Fuji is one of the few places in Japan where you’ll find pay toilets. At 200-300 yen ($2-3 USD) per turn, you’ll want to budget accordingly. You can also buy additional water, snacks and gear at each of the stations. Japan is a very cash-oriented society, so carrying large amounts of money is not unusual.

Camera and extra batteries. The views on the mountain are breathtaking and you’ll have plenty of opportunities to take photos. I don’t recall electrical outlets in the mountain hut, so make sure you have extra batteries or a portable charger.

Extras. If you are prone to elevation sickness, oxygen canisters can be purchased along the way, but you might consider bringing one with you in case canisters are sold out. In our group, the first case of elevation sickness from the thin air showed up around the 7th Station.

The sleeping arrangements in the mountain huts are cozy and booked solid. Be prepared to make some new friends!
The sleeping arrangements in the mountain huts are cozy and booked solid. Be prepared to make some new friends!

Tips

Stash your extra clothes, shoes and gear at the 5th Station. There are coin lockers at the 5th Station. I wish I’d stashed a complete set of dry clothes, including shoes, in one of those lockers. While the onsen was great, it was awful having to put wet clothes on afterward. It’s also a cheap way to lighten your load up the mountain.

Take the tour. Definitely spring for the tour company (we used Willer Express and would recommend them again) and take them up on their entire rental package. Mountain hut reservations often fill up quickly, but the tour companies have standing reservations.

Prepare for the rain and cold. I had a base layer, cotton shirt, DriFit pullover, fleece jacket and rain jacket and my teeth were still chattering at the summit. My gloves were soaked and freezing. My two layers of socks were the only thing standing between my toes and frostbite. Choose layering clothes as the temperature difference between the 5th Station and the summit is pretty extreme.

Check the calendar. The climbing season is short. If you’re planning to climb Fuji, make sure to schedule your trip between early July and mid-September. While you can still climb in the off-season, shops and huts are closed and trails are not maintained and the ascent can be dangerous for inexperienced climbers.

Independence Day in Independence, Ore.

by
The small town of Independence, Ore. was named an All-America City in 2014.

The summer of 1998 was my first in sleepy Monmouth, Ore. Best known as the home of Western Oregon University and the west coast’s last dry town, Monmouth had a permanent population right around 7,000 people in the late 1990s, but you’d be hard-pressed to find more than a few of them on a typical weekday.

I lived in a small duplex one block south of Main Street. On the morning of July 4, my roommate and I opened our curtains to discover cars parked end-to-end and people streaming en masse down our typically quiet street.

Certain the zombie apocalypse was upon us, we turned on the television for further instructions. Instead of warnings from the Emergency Broadcast System, we found the local television channel introducing the annual Western Days Parade.

Click any photo in the gallery to see a larger version and start a slideshow view

It would be nearly 20 years later before I actually attended the parade in person. Small-town Americana is on full display as kids on bicycles and makeshift floats pulled by pickup trucks make their way down Main Street and through neighboring Independence before arriving at Riverview Park on the banks of the Willamette River.

Main Street in Monmouth, Ore. after the Western Days Parade.
Main Street in Monmouth, Ore. after the Western Days Parade.

Independence Day celebrations have a long history in Independence. The first recorded July 4 event was held in 1903. The all-day affair began at 9 a.m. with a parade of nearly 30 floats followed by a “Grand Barbecue.” The competition heated up in the afternoon with tug-o-war, pie eating contests and baseball games. A “Grand Ball” finished up the evening.

The event was also the first time many locals saw an automobile in person. The “horseless carriages” shuttled visitors between downtown Independence and Pioneer Park just under a mile away.

Click any photo in the gallery to see a larger version and start a slideshow view

The celebration hasn’t changed much in the 114 years since that first event. The 2016 Western Days spanned four days with thousands of visitors coming in for the 5K fun run, parade and riverfront festival. Two nights of top-notch fireworks—funded through the hard work of year-around community fundraising efforts—anchor the holiday festivities.

The Independence Enterprise wrote after the first July 4 festival, “…the celebration of 1903 at Independence has set a new standard, a comparison to which will be drawn, and the highest compliment to be paid to any to come will be: It equals the splendid demonstration held at Independence in ’03.”

The community of Monmouth-Independence continues to set the bar high.

Special thanks to Peggy and Shannon at the Independence Heritage Museum for historical information about Independence Day in Independence, Ore.

Seven Wonders: Mount Hood

by
Mount Hood from Airplane

Mount Hood is the third in a series of posts on Cascadian Abroad focusing on the Seven Wonders of Oregon.

Growing up in the northern end of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, it was easy to take the majesty of Mount Hood for granted. The glowing beacon in the east filled the horizon while effortlessly blending into the background.

Looking at the northwest face of Mount Hood from the Hood River Bridge.
Looking at the northwest face of Mount Hood from the Hood River Bridge.

It was only after moving away from the Valley that the iconic mountain became something more. When I’d drive home from college, it was the mountain that told me I was getting close. Living in Japan in the shadow of Mount Fuji, I would always be reminded of Mount Hood and how lucky I was to experience two of the world’s great natural creations on a regular basis.

Mount Hood might be the quintessential Oregon image with its perfectly pointy, snow-covered peak. But in true Oregon fashion, the natural beauty is just the first of many layers that tell the whole story of the mountain the Multnomah tribe called Wy’east.

At just over 11,000 feet, Oregon’s tallest mountain is also a semi-active volcano. Recent earthquake swarms, while common, served as a reminder that Hood is Oregon’s most likely candidate for a volcanic eruption, last bursting in 1865.

The summit of Mount Hood is mostly free of snow by mid-spring.
The summit of Mount Hood is mostly free of snow by mid-spring.

Eruption concerns don’t keep the visitors away. During the winter, Mount Hood is the ultimate playground for snow sports. Snowboarders and skiers come from around the world to tackle the miles of trails at Mount Hood Meadows, Timberline and Skibowl, home to the largest night skiing area in the U.S.

The surrounding national forest keeps things busy during the dry season, with more than 1,000 miles of hiking trails and 140 miles of mountain biking trails. We recently tackled a pair of gorgeous hikes, including the family-friendly Mirror Lake trail. The three-mile in-and-out hike slowly gains 700 feet of elevation via switchbacks from the trailhead to Mirror Lake. Views of Mount Hood’s peak reflecting in the aptly-named lake are simply breathtaking.

In the afternoon, we tackled a good portion of the seven-mile Ramona Falls trail. Crowds thin out after the first mile where the trail crosses the Sandy River. The bridge over the river was destroyed in a rainstorm in 2014 and has not been replaced, requiring hikers to brave the crossing via fallen tree trunks. Around mile three, the trail connects with the famous Pacific Crest Trail, leading to the wide, cascading waterfall.

Click any photo in the gallery to see a larger version and start a slideshow view

With all the physical activities, it’s no surprise that the area also offers plenty of opportunities for relaxation. Timberline Lodge is among the most popular stops for tourists visiting the mountain. The National Historic Landmark was originally a project of the Works Progress Administration as a way to put people back to work after the Great Depression. The 40,000 square-foot lodge was finished in 1938 and dedicated by President Franklin D. Roosevelt himself.

Today, the lodge draws in freezing skiers and snowboarders who surround the six-sided, two-story fireplace in the lobby. A small museum tells the story of the construction and restoration of the lodge and includes displays of Native American art, artisan-built furniture and even Roosevelt’s chair. As a child of the 1980s, I was most impressed to learn that the drawing of the skier on a chairlift on the orange Pee-Chee folder was taken from a photo on Timberline’s “Magic Mile” chairlift. The photo of Merrie Douna riding the world’s second chairlift was also featured in a 1948 issue of Life magazine.

For out of town visitors, Timberline’s connection to popular culture is a major draw. The exterior of the lodge was featured in the 1980 Jack Nicholson classic The Shining as well as the film adaptation of Cheryl Strayed’s best-selling novel Wild.

On a warm day, a stop into the Mt. Hood Brewing Co. taphouse just off of Highway 26 in Government Camp is worthwhile. Six flagship brews and a handful of seasonals are served on a frozen rail built into the bar, invoking the feeling of winter even in the dog days of summer.

If You Go…

Mount Hood National Forest
From Portland, take I-84 E to US-26 E toward Mt. Hood.

Timberline Lodge
From US-26, follow signs for Timberline Lodge. The lodge is open 24 hours. Check website for restaurant and lift hours.

Skibowl
From US-26, follow signs for Skibowl. See website for seasonal hours.

Mirror Lake Trailhead
On US-26, look for the roadside parking area about two miles west of Government Camp. A Northwest Forest Pass is required, but day passes can be purchased from stores on US-26. Family-friendly.

Ramona Falls Trailhead
From US-26, turn left onto E Lolo Pass Rd near Welches. Turn right onto Forest Road 1825 and turn right across the bridge in about a half-mile. Follow narrow road to large parking area. A Northwest Forest Pass is required, but day passes can be purchased from stores on US-26. Due to the dangerous river crossing, this is not a family-friendly hike.

Mt. Hood Brewing Company
On US-26 at Government Camp. Open daily 11 a.m.-9 p.m.