Alexandria, Egypt

View of the Qaitbay Citadel on Alexandria’s Mediterranean coast.

Last weekend, I was fortunate to have time to take a day trip to Alexandria. Alexandria is north of Cairo and lies on the Mediterranean Sea, where the Nile River spreads out and drains into the sea. I learned in the Nile felucca post that the Nile runs south to north—which defies my logic!

The interesting thing about Alexandria is that it was founded by the Greek Alexander the Great so the Greco Roman influence is felt in the architecture, ruins and religion. It’s where Cleopatra courted Julius Caesar and later ruled fawith Mark Antony (now that is #goals). The sunny blue skies, white washed buildings and colorful boats gave more of an Athens than Cairo feel. I was elated by fresh sea air and blue skies!

Are we still in Egypt? The slanted building to the right is the Bibliotheca Alexandrina.
Are we still in Egypt? The slanted building to the right is the Bibliotheca Alexandrina.

Robert had a discount code from winning a photo contest with Urban Adventures so I used it for their day tour of Alexandria. Urban Adventures tagline is ‘Best. Day. Ever.’ And it really was. The drive time to Alexandria from Cairo is about three hours, give or take an hour depending on traffic.

Blue skies and palm trees in Alexandria. And it wouldn’t be Egypt without a couple of minarets!
Blue skies and palm trees in Alexandria. And it wouldn’t be Egypt without a couple of minarets!

We started at the city’s Kom el Shoqafa catacombs; I didn’t know it was one of the Seven Wonders of the Middle Ages. It was discovered in the modern age of 1900 when a donkey almost fell down one of its air shafts. The catacombs were the city’s underground burial place for humble residents and honored royals alike. When I first heard “catacombs,” my mild claustrophobia kicked in with visions of long, dark tunnels and skulls. Thankfully, the tombs were well lit with plenty of headroom and oxygen.

The artwork on the main familial tomb had both Greek influenced art—after viewing the drawings inside in the Sakkara tombs, I could see the difference. Greek art is more rounded and freestyled while Egyptian is more angular and uniform. Our guide said that if Egyptian artists had painted pyramid tombs as carelessly as the Greeks they would be fired!

Greek style art in the main burial chamber of the catacombs.
Greek style art in the main burial chamber of the catacombs.

Next, we passed by the Romans ruins of an amphitheater, which again, made me question where we were. The ruins were only discovered in 1960, accidentally again. They were purportedly used as a meeting or lecture hall.

The Roman Amphitheater in Alexandria.
The Roman Amphitheater in Alexandria.

After lunch, we started exploring my favorite part of the city, which is the corniche, or waterfront area. It was gorgeous!

Click any photo in the gallery to see a larger version and start a slideshow view

Our little group started to scatter in all directions to take pictures. With the city to our left and the water and boats to our right, we strolled until we reached the Qaitbay Citadel.

The Modern Mosaic by Fort Qaitbay. Mosque and minarets are pictured on the bottom left. Beside, stand the gods Taweret and Ra.
The Modern Mosaic by Fort Qaitbay. Mosque and minarets are pictured on the bottom left. Beside, stand the gods Taweret and Ra.

This citadel is built upon the exact location of the original Alexandria Lighthouse (one of the Ancient Wonders of the World). The lighthouse used to be the tallest manmade structure in the world, which is amazing considering it was on a tiny island.

Click any photo in the gallery to see a larger version and start a slideshow view

It’s unfortunate that of the tourists who do come to Egypt, few make it to Alexandria. I’m lucky to have experienced it and I’m looking forward to my next trip!

It's Me!
It’s Me!

Look for an upcoming post about the Bibliotheca Alexandrina (Alexandria Library).

Kawagoe Festival 2016

Kawagoe Matsuri

There are many things I miss about Japan, but festivals have to be near the top of that list. This weekend marks the 368th anniversary of the first Kawagoe Matsuri, the main festival event in our former hometown.

If you’re in the area, take some time and check it out. Kawagoe is less than an hour from Tokyo by local trains. In the meantime, enjoy our posts from the 2014 festival and the 2015 festival.

Cairo’s Khan el Khalili Market

An alley of the Khan el Khalili market.

Cairo’s most famous market, also known as “souk,” has been around since the 1500s. It’s popular with tourist and Egyptian shoppers alike; though like many “tourist” places in Egypt it was pretty lacking in tourists who looked like me. Come to Egypt, one and all!

Khan (the k is not pronounced) means ruler or king. Khalili refers to Prince Jaharkas Al-Khalili.

Khan el Khalili was on my list of things to see right away. I was interested in looking at the market’s famous gold and silver jewelry. I also wanted to find a Turkish coffee pot. I did a lot of window shopping and didn’t end up buying anything, but I may have to think about making room in my suitcases for some of the unique copper lanterns. The merchants weren’t pushy and let me browse in peace for the most part!

The market is situated next to a large mosque called Al-Hussein. Next to the mosque is a row of historic coffee and tea shops, where I stopped for some mint tea and people watching. Smoking shisha/hookah (water pipes with different flavors of tobacco) is a common pastime here also. It was a busy Saturday and lots of local tourists and families were milling around, making a visit to the mosque and souk.

For my next visit, I would like to come back in the evening. Cairo seems to come alive at night.


Courtyard with Al-Hussein Mosque behind it serves as an entry point for the market.
Courtyard with Al-Hussein Mosque behind it serves as an entry point for the market.

Row of coffee shops on the way to the market. Can you spot the people smoking shisha?
Row of coffee shops on the way to the market. Can you spot the people smoking shisha?

Speaking of shisha, you can buy your own pipe to take home with you.
Speaking of shisha, you can buy your own pipe to take home with you.

The colors and designs of these small bowls are so appealing! Think they’ll survive the journey back to the U.S.?
The colors and designs of these small bowls are so appealing! Think they’ll survive the journey back to the U.S.?

The perforated copper lanterns are so romantic. I’ve got my eye on you…
The perforated copper lanterns are so romantic. I’ve got my eye on you…

More lanterns lined this wide alley.
More lanterns lined this wide alley.

Candleholders and lanterns. I’ve learned that the Hamsa is a palm-shaped design commonly used in jewelry and wall hangings.
Candleholders and lanterns. I’ve learned that the Hamsa is a palm-shaped design commonly used in jewelry and wall hangings.

Light fixtures and chandeliers.
Light fixtures and chandeliers.

This street featured the gold shops (some were closed) and street food. Do you see the flatbread vendor?
This street featured the gold shops (some were closed) and street food. Do you see the flatbread vendor?

Gold and silver street.
Gold and silver street.

The other side of the mosque. Can you see the policeman on horseback patrol? Or the woman balancing a bucket on her head?
The other side of the mosque. Can you see the policeman on horseback patrol? Or the woman balancing a bucket on her head?

Heading back into the heart of the market. The eye design on the wall is the Eye of Horus, which is a symbol for protection. I’ve seen women wearing necklaces with the shape.
Heading back into the heart of the market. The eye design on the wall is the Eye of Horus, which is a symbol for protection. I’ve seen women wearing necklaces with the shape.

Decorative beads.
Decorative beads.

T-shirts, belly dancing gear and figurines.
T-shirts, belly dancing gear and figurines.

A baladi bread seller appeared behind us with a balancing act on his head!
A baladi bread seller appeared behind us with a balancing act on his head!

Should I get a necklace with my name in Arabic?
Should I get a necklace with my name in Arabic?

Mint tea in front of Al-Hussein Mosque.
Mint tea in front of Al-Hussein Mosque.

Inside the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities

Viktoria in front of Cairo’s Egyptian Museum.

I had a three-day weekend due to the Islamic New Year on Sunday, October 2 so I decided to take advantage of the time off and head out to the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, or the Egyptian Museum, in downtown Cairo. The coral building is easily recognizable in the famous Tahrir Square, the site of the 2011 Revolution protests.

View from the side of the museum and its gardens. Can you spot the Cairo Tower?
View from the side of the museum and its gardens. Can you spot the Cairo Tower?

I hired a guide and I’m glad I did; the museum is a jumble and maze of mostly unmarked artifacts. It’s not the most organized or clean or secure museum I’ve ever been to—thousand-year-old stuff is strewn throughout rooms with signs that essentially say, do not lean on or touch the priceless tomb/statue/carving. But people do. The concept is very culturally Egyptian—proud but lackadaisical.

Entrance ticket is about $8.50 and to take photos, $5.50.
Entrance ticket is about $8.50 and to take photos, $5.50.

What it lacks in interpretation and modernity, it makes up for in dusty coolness factor. The museum is made up of items collected from various pyramids, including the entire collection of Tutankhamun’s tomb. Wikipedia says it has more than 120,000 items, not counting the ones that were gifted to Austria and other countries.

The main hall of the ground floor. I hope nothing falls over!
The main hall of the ground floor. I hope nothing falls over!

We started on the first floor (ground floor) with the collection from the Old, Middle and New Kingdoms. First, I saw the statue of King Djoser (Zoser), who built the world’s first stone step pyramid, which I had previously visited in Saqqara. The statue was collected from his pyramid and features the life-size (small!) king with the false chin.

King Djoser.
King Djoser.

Next, we headed through the main hall to see a stone pyramid top, or the Benben stone from the Pyramid of Amenemhat III. The pyramid below it has since crumbled, but the carved capstone or tip remains.

Guide Asmaa next to the capstone carved with a phoenix bird, which is a part of an ancient creation story.
Guide Asmaa next to the capstone carved with a phoenix bird, which is a part of an ancient creation story.

At the end of the hall is a colossal statue of Amenhotep III and his wife, Tiye, grandparents of the famous Tutankhamun. This statue is significant because it’s the first time a woman was depicted as the same giant size as her husband. Notice the size of their daughters at their feet. I later saw Tiye’s eerie mummy (see a photo on Wikipedia), complete with hair in the mummy room (no pictures allowed and that’s fine by me).

Amenhotep III and Queen Tiye.
Amenhotep III and Queen Tiye.

We headed to check out the artifacts surrounding King Amenhotep IV, who was the first pharaoh who decided to worship only one God. His story was featured on Morgan Freeman’s “Story of God” series (go DVR it right now). The show features the beliefs of the ancient Egyptians and the turn to a monotheistic (one God) worship by this king. He later changed his name to Akhenaten to include the name of the God Aten, or “sun.” Unfortunately, he became somewhat of a religious tyrant and his followers scratched out his name in his coffin so that his spirit would NOT return in the afterlife. His successor returned to a polytheistic rule.

Akhenaten’s wooden coffin found in the Valley of the Kings in Luxor. Look at the middle strip of the coffin. Can you see where the cartouche, or the symbols for his name, has been scratched out?
Akhenaten’s wooden coffin found in the Valley of the Kings in Luxor. Look at the middle strip of the coffin. Can you see where the cartouche, or the symbols for his name, has been scratched out?

The second floor houses the pieces of the famous kings and more solid gold bling. Namely, all of the 5,000 things that a boy king Tutankhamun could ever want for the afterlife. We saw his gold ceremonial chair, three funerary beds (in case he wanted to bounce from bed to bed, I guess) and four shrine gold boxes that held his sarcophagus and death mask.

Click any photo in the gallery to see a larger version and start a slideshow view

Due to all of the grave robbing, precautionary measures were taken to hide the body within the layers of gold coffins. I guess it didn’t matter too much because the location of his tomb was lost, not to be found until the famous discovery in 1922.

I also saw the museum’s masterpiece, the famous gold and colored mask of King Tut with the long false chin. It is 24 lbs. of solid gold. Alas, no pictures were allowed.

I hope to return again and explore the museum more on my own.