Robert Haddan - Cascadian Abroad

Sanja Matsuri (Three Shrines Festival)

October 6, 2024May 26, 2014 by Robert Haddan

Japanese shrines are impressive, but there’s a sense of “you’ve seen one, you’ve seen ’em all.” Small, local shrines are everywhere. However, the history of these shrines is still inspiring and the major shrines can be overwhelming.

Not surprisingly, the tradition is still celebrated throughout Japan. One of the largest celebrations—and wildest—is the Shinto celebration of Sanja Matsuri (Three Shrines Festival) in the Tokyo district of Asakusa. An estimated two million people visit Asakusa during the festival weekend to watch locals carry portable shrines, or mikoshi, through the district’s streets.

We set up shop at Hōzōmon Gate. From there, we could watch as the mikoshi were carried up Nakamise-dori, the main street leading to the temple. Each mikoshi is ornately decorated with gold sculptures and wood carving. We were there on Saturday, so we missed the three large shrines carried on Sunday, but those shrines cost approximately $400,000 each to build. These aren’t your usual weekend parade floats.

Shrine parade — Shrines are carried up Nakamise-dori toward the main temple.

Approximately 100 mikoshi are carried through Hōzōmon Gate on Saturday. They stop briefly at the gate to pay respects to Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy. Those carrying the shrines shake and rock them to energize the kami seated within the shrine.

Even the kids are involved, lugging a heavy shrine around town with a little less excitement than their adult counterparts.

The mikoshi are then carried to Hondō where they are blessed by Shinto priests before being paraded through the 44 neighborhoods of Asakusa.

The video below captures the energy of the parade. You can hear them chanting Soiya! Soiya!

Island Time

May 26, 2014 by Robert Haddan

As I’ve mentioned before, getting around without a smartphone in Japan requires a lot of planning. Before heading somewhere new, I spend a lot of time on Google Maps. Each trip usually includes a new lesson about what not to do next time.

This past weekend, we headed to a new-to-us part of Tokyo. The final destination was to be the Tokyo Island Fair in Hamamatsucho, preceded by a lunchtime stop at Island Veggie, a Hawaiian-style macrobiotic restaurant in Hiroo.

The “mile walk” from the train station to Hiroo was probably closer to two miles. We walked right past the restaurant once and also found a train station about a block away. Add “don’t trust ‘fewer transfers’ on Google Maps” to the list of lessons learned. But, on the sunny side, we saw some cool stuff along the way, including some awesome architecture.

Cracked building — A modern glass building appears to be hatching from this standard concrete structure.

Eventually we did find Island Veggie and enjoyed a great vegan lunch. The menu was entirely in English and the staff spoke it perfectly, which is always a nice surprise at meal time. We’ll definitely be back to try more of the menu. On this day, we had a teriyaki veggie burger, a falafel burger with fries, a soy milkshake and homemade lemonade. Healthy-naughty food is always a treat.

Since the walk to Hiroo was more than we bargained for, we decided to take the train to Hamamatsucho instead of walking as we’d originally planned. The first stop on the line was Roppongi, Tokyo’s high-end midtown, which we’d been meaning to check out. We jumped off the train and did a lap, which is about all Roppongi deserved as far as I could tell. It was a lot of shopping and eating, but the open-air mall near the station did have some decent views.

Tokyo Tower and a park with a heart are visible from the Roppongi Hills complex. A playground with multiple slide options is part of the residential section of the mall.

Back on the train, we headed for the waterfront and our original destination. The Tokyo Island Fair highlighted the food and culture of the Izu and Ogasawara islands. These islands were formed volcanically, so they’ve never been part of the continent. As a result, they’ve evolved on their own and feature plant and animal life unique to the islands. The Ogasawara chain is known as the “Galapagos of the Orient” and was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011.

The festival was held at Takeshiba Ferry Terminal. The terminal serves all of the small islands and opens up into Tokyo Bay, which is connected to the Pacific Ocean. I’m not big on astrology, but I’m an aquarius, the water sign. I love the Willamette Valley, but if I didn’t get to the ocean about once a month, I’d start to get a little claustrophobic. It had been about three months since I’d last seen real water, so this was a treat. A little spiritual cleansing.

Selfie — A little water time on the Takeshiba waterfront.

Unbeknownst to us, our real reason for coming to Japan is to try ALL of the ice cream. This milk ice, made on Izu Oshima island, was fantastic. The best way to describe most Japanese ice cream is that it tastes “clean.” I’m sure an island with an active volcano that last erupted in 1990 could use a good milk ice.

As with any place in Japan, the best treats are usually at the front of the longest line. Well, there’s another theory out the window. The front of this line had snails. Giant snails. Still in their shell. Looking like some sort of hose in the engine of a souped-up car. Suffice to say, we skipped that line.

What are these mollusks? Snails. That’s right… giant, nasty snails.

There were plenty of activities to keep the kiddies entertained as well.

Fishtank — Kids gather around a tank with baby sharks and rays from the islands.

Painting — Kids paint little figurines as part of the Island Fair activities.

When we got off the train in Hamamatsucho, we saw the Tokyo Tower, another landmark on our to-do list. Two birds, one stone… great! The tower is Japan’s second-tallest structure with a design inspired by the Eiffle Tower, although slightly de-classed by the industrial white and safety-orange paint job.

Zōjō-ji temple, a beautiful Buddhist temple, separated us from the Tokyo Tower. Much of Zōjō-ji was destroyed in World War II. The oldest structure on the grounds, Sangedatsu Gate, was built in 1622. Walking through the gate will free a person from greed, hate and foolishness.

We finally arrived at Tokyo Tower where dozens of other tourists joined us in taking up-the-nose pictures trying to get the whole tower in the frame. 1,420 yen (about $14 USD) will get you a great view of the city from the observation deck, but we’d seen enough of Tokyo for one day and headed home.

The Argument for Over-packaging

May 19, 2014 by Robert Haddan

A grocery trip back home meant hopping into our fuel-efficient hybrid car and driving three or four miles to the nearest store. We’d enter armed with reusable grocery and produce bags, choose unpackaged fresh fruits and vegetables, bulk nuts and snacks, etc. Once home, the packaging would be separated into recycling (unsorted for the most part), compost and finally trash.

When we first arrived in Japan, the sheer amount of packaging used in the grocery stores hurt our green Cascadian hearts. Most snack items are individually packaged, then included in a larger package with a plastic tray and cellophane wrapper. Fruit and vegetables are rarely available per item. Rather, they are pre-packaged in cellophane-wrapped, culturally-friendly quantities.

As we approach the two-month mark in Japan, I’ve moved from appalled to thinking the Japanese might be on to something. Bear with me as I lay out my arguments for over-packaging.

Convenience

Of course, the convenience of individually-packed items is nice. Whether packing work lunches or snacks for a weekend day trip, it’s easy to grab a few items, toss them in the bag and go. At home, we typically bought nuts, etc. in bulk and used plastic containers or re-used sandwich bags to take things to go. While we used our sandwich bags until they punctured, seeing some of our neighbors trash, I know most of those bags ended up in the general trash, creating as much landfill waste as if the items were individually packaged.

Could the same thing be true in Japan? Sure, but…

Japan has one of the world’s best waste management systems

I’ve written briefly before about the complex recycling system in Japan. In Kawagoe, we have nine categories of waste. On the extreme, the village of Kamikatsu in Tokushima Prefecture has 44 categories as its citizens aim to eliminate landfill-bound trash by 2020.

As of 2010, Japan recycled 77 percent of its plastic waste, compared to 20 percent in the U.S. There’s also a broader category of what types of plastics can be recycled. In Linn County, Oregon, for example, we had to throw away the lids to plastic bottles. Those are recyclable in Japan.

As refuse collection areas are shared by neighborhood, peer pressure encourages the proper sorting. All waste is required to be placed in transparent plastic bags and trash collectors will gently remind rule breakers of the proper sorting techniques.

Since the system is so good, it got me to thinking about the health benefits…

Individual serving sizes are better for your health

Japan is not a “super-sized” country. Restaurant portions are appropriate. Desserts in grocery stores come in smaller sizes. Actually, most items are an appropriate serving. According to an International Business Times article, the obesity rate in Japan is 3.5 percent compared to 34.9 percent in the U.S. The government has set a “maximum waist size” limit for people age 40 or older that, if breached, results in mandatory weight counseling and support sessions. Companies with high rates of obesity among its employees are fined.

The goal is not a socialist takeover of the individual rights of citizens, but a responsible approach to reducing weight-related diseases that put a burden on taxpayers to cover rising health care costs for preventable diseases (sound familiar, U.S.?). The result is a lifespan about five years longer than in the U.S.

We’ve noticed this on a personal level in our first two months here. I’ve already lost those stress-eating-related 20 lbs. I brought with me. Urban development built around walking and public transportation and a national culture of portion-control promotes general healthiness.

Want a Kit Kat? The individually-packaged ones have about 64 calories. I grab one, get my fix and move on with my day. Grab a Kit Kat at 7-11 in the states? 210 calories. That beautiful chocolate-carmel ice cream bar at home? 320 calories. The smaller version in Japan is just 160 calories. All the satisfaction with half the calories.

As an experiment, take what you consider a serving of a snack. Nuts are a great example. An actual serving of nuts, about 180 calories, is only 1/4 cup. My guess is you have at least two servings in your hand. I know I did.

There’s an increasing trend in processed convenience foods attributed to Japan’s fast-paced lifestyle. It will be interesting to see how this clashes with the anti-obesity campaign in the next couple decades.

Is it really better?

Frankly, I’m sure there’s a bunch of holes in my arguments. But generally, Japan does several things I agree with.

There’s a national focus on responsible waste management and the system is enforced by the people, not the government. Grass roots support is critical in lasting change.
The food industry supports a healthier diet through portion control. An individual can still choose to eat more, but servings are carved out via packaging. This makes overeating an informed choice vs. an ignorant one.
Health care is managed with an eye toward the future. The obesity rate in the U.S. increased from 12 percent in 1990 to 23 percent in 2005. In 2010, it jumped to 35.7 percent. U.S. weight-related health care costs are estimated to be $147 billion annually. These are preventable diseases.

Shinrin Koen

May 15, 2014 by Robert Haddan

Last weekend, we headed west for the first time, taking the Tobu Tojo train to Shinrin Koen (Forest Park). There’s a pretty awesome Forest Park back home too and times like these feel like we’re back in the great, green Pacific Northwest.

We rented bikes and rode most of the 17 kilometer (about 10.5 miles) path around the park. The paths wind through the trees, and around ponds, fountains, arboretums, playgrounds and art installations. A great day trip and definitely on the list of places to return again and again.

Shinrin Koen South Gate — Fountain at the south gate of Shinrin Koen

Fountain Gnomes — These gnomes protected the fountain at the south gate of Shinrin Koen

Tree Climbing — These kids were learning how to rope climb

Ponpoko Mountain—We should have known this wasn’t a real mountain when we had to climb downhill to get there

Memorial Plaza Fountain — The fountain at Memorial Plaza in Shinrin Koen. Snack shack had rose ice cream. Delicious!

Bike basket — I’ve always wanted a cruiser bike

Bike selfie — Kids: Do not try bike selfies at home

Cycling map — Map of the cycling course at Shinrin Koen

Walking path — We had to walk a couple kilometers from the train station to the park. Stay on the walking path… or meet your fate!

Empty train — The train emptied out a couple stops before the park. We’ve never been on a train this empty in Japan.

Rice fields — We passed this recently flooded rice field on the way to Shinrin Koen. The growing season is just starting.

Shake, Rattle and Roll

May 13, 2014 by Robert Haddan

In Oregon, earthquakes are something you remember. Ask a resident of the Willamette Valley about the 5.6 magnitude Spring Break Quake, and they’ll be able to tell you exactly how they were woken up at 5:34 a.m. on March 25, 1993. I felt the bed shaking and heard the closet doors rattling in my bedroom. I thought our dog, Sampson, was scratching at the end of my bed, so I gave him a little foot-shove to get him to stop. Apparently he was close to the end of the bed, because he fell off and landed with a thud on the floor, but the bed was still shaking. I still feel bad about that…

In Japan, they’re a fairly regular occurrence. A 2013 study showed that an earthquake of magnitude 3 or more occurs every two to three days on average since the Great East Japan Earthquake in 2011. I’m not sure if you get used to them, but I certainly haven’t yet.

Since part of the intention of Cascadian Abroad was to document our experience in Japan, I’m choosing to use this post as a running log of the quakes we feel in Kawagoe with the date, magnitude and epicenter. Hopefully it’s interesting to some of you as well.

November 7, 2015 at 10:45 p.m. — 4.9 (Ibaraki)

There’s not a lot more unsettling that the start of an earthquake after you’ve already gone to bed. We hadn’t quite fallen asleep when this one started with a slow roll. It felt like one of those that could really get going, but fortunately it was just a little guy.

October 21, 2015 at 3:04 p.m. — 5.5 (Fukushima)

We’ve had a couple little earthquakes since May, but this is the first one in awhile. I try to flip on the local news channel right away to see how long it takes from when I feel it before they mention it. They always beat me to it! This one was about a minute of light shaking, but since it was epicentered in Fukushima—home of the nuclear reactor damaged in the 2011 quake—the news is all over it.

May 30, 2015 at 8:24 p.m. — 8.5 (Ogasawara-shoto Seiho-oki)

Something’s brewing… third quake in a week and by far the largest. Viktoria had just arrived back in Japan from the U.S. when this one hit. We were at the supermarket grabbing a bite to eat in the cafe when the building started to roll for nearly a minute. The overhead lights and signage swayed for several minutes afterward. Everyone froze in place, some announcements were made and some people headed for the exits. We finished our dinner while chatting with the ladies next to us about the “cool” earthquake that just woke us all up.

May 29, 2015 at 1:15 a.m. — 4.8 (Ibaraki Prefecture)

Earth is angry again! In the morning, I watched as Mt. Shindake on Kuchinoerabu Island in southwest Japan erupted live on television. Around 1 a.m., the earth started moving significantly for the second time in a week. It would have been enough to wake me up had I not already been awake, stuck on the addictive Walking Dead game for iPad.

May 25, 2015 at 2:28 p.m. — 5.6 (Saitama Prefecture)

The first significant quake with an epicenter in our home prefecture since we’ve arrived. The epicenter was 68 miles to the northeast of Kawagoe, but actually felt stronger in Ibaraki Prefecture, 120 miles to the east of the epicenter. It was plenty strong here as our little apartment swayed for a good 30 seconds. Viktoria was at Narita Airport preparing to fly back to the U.S. with a group of 200-plus students where alarms sounded when the quake hit.

May 13, 2015 at 6:13 a.m. — 6.6 (Iwate and Miyagi prefectures)

Earth is angry! Yesterday, another large quake struck Kathmandu, Nepal. During the night, tropical storm Noul soaked our neck of the woods. Then, early this morning, a strong quake hit of the northeast coast of Japan. It was enough to wake us from an early-morning slumber, enhanced by the siren of an ambulance that was passing by.

December 20, 2014 at 6:30 p.m. — 5.9 (Fukushima Prefecture)

Our couch wobbles a bit when someone adjusts their position. We’d just commented on this when a 5.9 quake shook our little apartment (low magnitude in our area). The feeling on the couch is exactly the same, but the added rattle of the sliding doors was an indicator that this was not a simple adjustment.

November 22, 2014 at 10:08 p.m. — 6.8 (Nagano Prefecture)

This one hit while Viktoria was in Ibaraki for a conference. We were FaceTiming when the light fixture started to sway. She was on the sixth floor of her hotel and felt it for awhile. Turned out it was a pretty big quake in Nagano, about 90 miles to the east of Kawagoe. Several people were injured, wooden homes collapsed and a mudslide closed a road. Officials were surprised by the strength as inland quakes are typically not as powerful as the coastal quakes.

November 12, 2014 at 9:53 a.m. — 4.7 (Ibaraki Prefecture)

It’s been awhile since we had a good shimmy! A subtle sustained shake to make you say “Hey, it’s been awhile since we had a good shimmy!”

September 16, 2014 at 12:28 p.m. — 5.6 (Ibaraki Prefecture)

Eating lunch when the closet doors starting shaking, then the whole apartment started swaying and seemed to last forever! This only measured as a 5.6, but it felt stronger than any earthquake we’ve experienced since arriving in Japan.

July 12, 2014 at 4:22 a.m. — 6.8 (Fukushima Prefecture)

I thought I was dreaming, but this was an actual (quite long) quake. This one hit near the Fukushima Nuclear Power Plant and triggered a small tsunami. According to Japan Today, workers on night shift were instructed to retreat to higher ground.

June 17, 2014 at 2:42 a.m. — 5.3 (Chiba Prefecture)

In a night filled with loud cars and more than one ambulance burning by, why not be woken up in the middle of the night to a shaking floor. Lots of seismic activity in Japan this week.

June 16, 2014 at 5:14 a.m. — 5.8 (Fukushima Prefecture)

Woke up to a long shaking quake this morning. The epicenter was about 90 km (about 56 miles) off the coast of Fukushima, home to the nuclear power plant that was damaged in the 2011 earthquake/tsunami. Japan Meteorological Agency says there was a 5.6 in Ibaraki Prefecture at 3:19 a.m., but that one didn’t wake us.

May 13, 2014 at 8:35 a.m. — 4.9 (northwest Chiba Prefecture)

Just a good, long shake. I was reading e-mail and drinking coffee. First reports indicate that I did not spill said coffee.

May 7, 2014 at 5:18 a.m. — 6.0 (Izu Oshima island south of Tokyo)

This one started with a hard “shove” followed by an extended period of shaking. We were still in bed, but the shove was enough to wake me up.

April 18, 2014 at 7:53 a.m. — 4.7 (south Ibaraki Prefecture)

Making breakfast and noticed the water bottle and pepper shaker on the counter wobbling. Didn’t really feel it otherwise.

Costco

May 12, 2014 by Robert Haddan

Bulk purchasing isn’t really part of our day-to-day life in Japan. Our 550 square foot apartment, which actually has quite a bit of storage, doesn’t really necessitate things like the Gorilla Metropolis Playset, a swingset that is almost twice the size of our apartment. Or even two-dozen rolls of toilet paper for that matter.

Still, visiting a Japanese Costco was on our list of things to do. In the U.S., a trip to Costco every couple weeks was part of our shopping routine. A case of black beans here, a giant bag of tortilla chips there… things that would keep for awhile. Of course, we had a big pantry and a garage to keep all these things in.

The closest Costco in Iruma was actually not the most convenient, requiring two train transfers and a bus ride, so we chose the other Saitama location in Shinmisato.

The train let us off right outside LaLaport, an expansive indoor/outdoor shopping mall with Forever 21, H&M, Columbia, Adidas; the best fashion stores America Japan has to offer. Ikea anchors the mall on one end and Costco holds down the other.

Costco Outdoor Seating — That little girl’s about to start a riot for a Costco dog!

As we approached Costco, it wasn’t any different from the ones we frequented at home. People packed the outdoor seating, attacking their ¼ pound all-beef sausage with all the toppings.

Costco Front Door — I can only assume that guy is finishing up something from the Fresh Food Hot Items menu

Just outside the main door, the giant Costco weekly deals billboard greeted us with similar bargains as we’d find in the U.S. Frying pans, reading glasses, tires and tents alongside party-sized platters of sweet rolls and sushi.

Costco Pasteries — Carrot cake cupcakes and Very Berry Mousse Cake

Inside, it was bumper to bumper. The bakery section had giant carrot cake cupcakes and “Very Berry Mousse Cake” that seemed to be popular. The specialty cake section was there too, although with a more Japanese-friendly whipped cream frosting option. It was starting to feel like the end of Wizard of Oz… “And you were there…”

Costco Sake — Enough sake to fill a swimming pool, which you can buy on aisle 10

If sweet treats aren’t your thing, maybe the giant liquor section is? I’m sure it’s not that much of a novelty outside of Oregon where liquor sales are tightly controlled, but it was odd to us to see sake, tequila and whiskey for sale alongside the beer and wine.

Our cart. I will gladly ride the train for two hours for Kettle Chips and Tillamook Cheese

All of the product signs were in both Japanese and English, so we were able to put names to items we’d seen other places, but couldn’t identify. In the end, our cart ended up very similar to what we’d buy at home. Sea Salt Kettle Chips (from Salem, OR), Tillamook Pepper Jack Cheese (from Tillamook, OR), strawberry jam, bread, pickled Jalapenos, baby kale and a bottle of Kirkland-brand Malbec. We did buy one distinctly-Japanese item: edamame tofu. The little squares had whole edamame beans (soybeans) inside.

Costco snackbar — A little taste of home and a little taste of Hokkaido

Epilogue

No trip to Costco is complete without swinging through the snack bar. The famous ¼-pound hot dog—which has a better ring to it than the “0.11339809 kilogram hot dog”, even in metric system Japan—was a crowd favorite. Pizza, coffee, churros and ice cream were paired with some new-to-us items, including clam chowder, pineapple smoothie and bulgogi (Korean barbequed meat) bake.

We ordered a slice of cheese pizza and a Hokkaido soft-cream sundae with raspberries and chocolate and sat down amongst the masses, relishing our first Japanese Costco experience.

Emphasis on the wrong sylLAble

May 9, 2014 by Robert Haddan

“If you don’t know how to pronounce a word, say it loud! Why compound ignorance with inaudibility?”
– E.B. White, The Elements of Style

Minor pronunciation kerfuffle at the dry cleaners today. The nice old lady at the counter asked for my name. “Robato” I spit out with all the usual confidence of my Japanese conversational transactions. She started laughing as did the other customer. I realized quickly what I’d done…

My name is Robot

Did I mention how kind and patient everyone here is? For the record, it’s “Robaato” with a long A sound.

Odds and Ends

May 7, 2014 by Robert Haddan

Notes from a laundry-filled Wednesday.

Care package!

About a week ago, I asked my mom to send me some seeds. I’ve yet to see jalapeños—or any other heat-packin’ pepper for that matter—in the grocery stores. We’ve found cilantro, but it’s about ¥220 ($2.16 USD) for a single sprig. So, I thought I’d just try to grow some myself. The climate should be great for the peppers and I’ll probably grow the cilantro inside to keep it from bolting.

The package arrived today, about a week after it was sent, although we’ve not had mail service the last two days because of the Golden Week holidays. It was a nice treat to find a little taste of home inside, although Mom already gave away the surprise when she mentioned a box, which seemed overkill for two small seed envelopes. According to the customs tag on the package, there are 75 pieces of authentic Oregon Coast salt-water taffy protecting the seed packets. Well, there are 72 pieces of taffy now…

Sentaku-ki

We’ve more or less figured out the washing machine (sentaku-ki) by randomly pushing buttons until something happened, but it seemed like there might be more to it than that. Today, with the help of Google Translate I figured out the rest of it. I bet there’s a market for someone who has nothing better to do than translate appliance instructions into English.

When I help my wife with a project, she frequently says “Are you being a perfectionist?” which means “It doesn’t have to be pretty. Can you just get it done so we can go to bed, please?!” But, when it comes to projects requiring more than one Adobe Creative Suite product, I just can’t help myself (hoping the cross-link to Adobe’s site will encourage them to sponsor my blog—”Cascadian Abroad, brought to you by Adobe” has a nice ring to it).

While likely an unnecessary exercise, it was a good learning experience. I added both the English translation and the rōmaji to help us learn the Japanese words and characters. I’m about halfway through doing the same for the heater/air conditioner remote control. Look out television… you’re next!

Popcorn

May 6, 2014 by Robert Haddan

Sometimes, in this world of modern gizmos and interconnectedness, I find myself excited about doing things people have been doing for centuries. Tonight, cooking popcorn over an open flame can be added to that list.

We found a small bag of kernels at a store in Tokyo a couple weeks ago, but without our modern popcorn popper, we had to beckon back to our ancestors’ method of popping the corn. So, of course we start with the internet for some basic instructions.

Really, it was just 1/3 cup of kernels, about 1 1/2 tablespoons of vegetable oil and medium heat in our handy dandy Le Creuset saucepan. But seriously, I got giddy when that first kernel popped and listened as each of its siblings exploded in puffed perfection.

Chiyoda, Tokyo Dome City and Shibuya at Night

May 2, 2014 by Robert Haddan

Another weekend, another Tokyo adventure. This time we set our sights on Chiyoda, home to the Imperial Palace, the National Gardens, National Archives and Japan’s legislature, known as the National Diet.

Of course, the day was planned around the potential for good eats. We actually found Loving Hut on our first try instead of aimlessly wandering the streets of Tokyo for hours on end. The restaurant is part of an international chain with a goal of providing people access to affordable vegan food. There’s one in Portland with more of a Chinese vibe.

This location took a more traditional Japanese approach to its menu, but with an awesome weekend twist: VEGAN BUFFET! The fat kid inside me screamed with excitement. All you can eat with no “what’s in this” moments to worry about.

Lunch at Loving Hut — My big, fat vegan lunch

I only took a picture of one plate, but I didn’t stop here. Hoax ham, faux fish, counterfeit chicken—not their real names, but I think I just populated my vegan restaurant menu! “Eel” sushi and veggie pork-stuffed buns (nikuman is the traditional pork-filled bun in Japan) alongside curry, sautéed vegetables, gyoza and fresh rolls. And the “meat”-on-a-stick didn’t stand a chance. I haven’t been so full since we’ve been in Japan.

After eating like a man going to the electric chair, we needed a walk. We were situated right between two great tourist destinations. Chiyoda City to the left, Tokyo Dome City to the right.

We started left and made our way to the Imperial Palace. The original site of Edo Castle, the grounds have beautiful gardens and parts of some buildings date back to the 1600s. Just entering is impressive as you cross the moat designed to protect the palace and enter through massive gates.

Moat — No alligators in this moat… as far as I know

Skyscrapers from modern Tokyo peek around corners of centuries-old stone, once again blending the old with the new in the way that only Tokyo can.

The gardens were in full bloom with every color in the crayon box, although we’d just missed the sakura by a couple weeks. Equally colorful carp swam in the ponds, showing off for their human visitors.

While the east garden is highlighted mostly by the wide-open park space at its center, the outer garden is more densely populated with flora, including 260 trees representing each of Japan’s prefectures.

A crowd of Nikons and Canons surrounded a bush in the park. Turns out they were capturing one of the days more beautiful and simple sights. Viktoria captured several wonderful photos of this butterfly feeding on the blooms.

After feeling like we’d seen the grounds, we explored the nearby area. We walked through the Kokyo Gaien National Gardens across the street. A beautiful scenic walking path again gave glimpses of new Tokyo while encasing us fully in nature.

The Tokyo Skytree sneaks into view through Tokyo’s real trees

The area is also the home to the Science Museum and Nippon Budokan, the arena where many “Live at Budokan” albums were recorded, including the dynamite Cheap Trick recording.

We headed back the other direction toward Tokyo Dome City, site of the massive Tokyo Dome, home to the Yomiuri Giants.

The Giants are Japan’s version of the New York Yankees, owners of 22 Japan Series titles and Japan’s Babe Ruth, infielder Sadaharu Oh. In 22 seasons with Yomiuri, Oh slugged 868 career home runs and won nine Central League MVP awards. I’m sure I’ll gush about Oh more when we return to visit the Japan Baseball Hall of Fame, located in the Tokyo Dome.

The complex is full of restaurants, shopping and an amusement park. Kids of all ages seemed to be having a good time with the different rides and activities.

We walked around for awhile and took it all in before finding dinner. We settled on pizza since it’d been awhile since we’d had any. The restaurant served Neapolitan-style pies and the food certainly impressed more than the service. We were seated in the “international” section, next to a couple young men traveling from Iran and a young European couple.

On the way home, we decided to stop in Shibuya for the full, nighttime experience. We were not disappointed.

Tokyo’s Times Square was lit up like a Christmas tree and thousands crowded the area heading out for a fun-filled (and booze-filled, from the looks of it) Saturday night on the town.

While in Shibuya, we went to the towering Tokyu Hands department store. Floor after floor of everything you’d ever need. We bought cards (the ones with glue-free envelopes) and light fixtures while perusing fitness items, beauty products and a great Hello Kitty display.

More Tokyo adventures to come!