Day 43: St. Peter’s Basilica

A statue of St. Paul at St. Peter's Basilica. Jesus is front and center atop the facade flanked by St. John the Baptist and St. James the Greater to the right and St. Andrew and St. John the Apostle to the left.

There’s a point on a long journey where travel fatigue subsides and changing cities, beds and cuisine becomes the norm. By day 43 of our European adventure, it would have been easy to just find another city, but unfortunately a pair of return tickets to Tokyo were dated for the following day.

We dotted our map with the last things we wanted to see and set out toward Testaccio again. However, we only made it a block before diverting back to Biscottificio Innocenti for another bag of cookies!

With cookies in hand (and mouth), we crossed the Tiber River and headed for the Pyramid of Cestius. After toppling Cleopatra’s Egyptian empire in 30 BC, Romans went crazy for all things Egyptian. The pyramid was built somewhere between between 18-12 BC as a tomb for politician Gaius Cestius. The walls, steeper than those found in Egyptian pyramids, are oft-cited as the source of the disproportioned depictions of pyramids in European art.

Nearby, the shopping-mall-sized Monte Testaccio appears to be nothing more than a tree-covered mound, but its real secret lies underneath. Located near the Tiber River, it was used as a state-run dumping ground for ceramic olive oil jugs during the Roman Empire. Archeologists have dated pieces back to 140-250 AD, but concede the site may have originated two centuries earlier.

From there, we took a bus across town to Vatican City. While we watched the Pope’s Wednesday address and toured the museum on our first visit, we weren’t able to make it inside St. Peter’s Basilica. To visit the world’s largest church, topped by the world’s largest dome, is to witness the opulence of the Holy Roman Empire at its peak.

Designed by Michelangelo and other leading Renaissance artists, the Basilica was built from 1506-1626 and is revered as much for its architecture as it is for its purpose. The regal marble and gold interior, as well as the 96-foot-tall bronze baldacchino canopying the alter were widely criticized at the time for being too over-the-top.

Large and imposing statues of former popes line the inner and outer nave. Just inside the doors, crowds gathered around the basilica’s most famous piece, Michelangelo’s Pietà. The sculpture of Jesus on his mother’s lap after the crucifixion is notable as the only piece the artist ever signed after it was claimed to be the work of another sculptor. Michelangelo’s name can be seen on the sash laying over Mary’s chest.

Heavy rain pummeled the area while we were inside, but finally started to let up as we found a local pizza place for lunch, followed by some unique gelato at Gelateria dei Gracchi. We continued east toward Piazza del Popolo, gateway to the famed gardens of Villa Borghese.

The 200-year-old Piazza del Popolo is still one of Rome’s most popular public squares. Located just inside the old city walls of the Roman Empire, it’s anchored by a piece of Egyptian history. An obelisk of Ramesses II was brought from the ancient Egyptian city of Heliopolis in 10 BC and installed in Circus Maximus, the former chariot racing stadium in the city center. It was moved to its current location as part of Rome’s 16th century urban expansion.

Behind the piazza, a zig-zagging road leads to the top of the Pincian Hill, home to several beautiful gardens, including the Villa Borghese. The sweeping views of the city from the top are absolutely magnificent. The large trees provided great cover for the passing rain showers, which in turn provided amazing light in contrast with the purple skies.

We wanted to cap off our trip with a nice dinner out. At the recommendation of our B&B host, we chose La Botticella in one of Trastevere’s back streets. The small hostaria is run by two sisters and has a homey feel about it.

Another couple entered shortly after us. In typical European fashion—despite the many empty tables—they were seated right next to us. They turned out to be visiting from Montana (not quite Cascadian, but close enough!) and as the wine flowed, we had a great time chatting with them.

However, the food quickly distracted us from the great company. It was one of those meals that should really be eaten in private due to the constant moans of satisfaction. We started with the traditional Roman fried artichoke. The ricotta and porcini ravioli special was delicious, but the spaghetti all’aglio, olio e peperoncino (garlic, olive oil and spicy peppers) had us ready to pack the chef away in our carry-on. We finished the meal with a heavenly strawberry tiramisu.

As we paid our bill, both sisters came to to say farewell. One carried a plastic bag with a bottle of the house red wine in it and handed it to Viktoria as a gift for International Women’s Day. Someday we’ll return to Rome and our first stop will be La Botticella!


Biscotti and amaretti cookies from Trastevere's Biscottificio Innocenti.
Biscotti and amaretti cookies from Trastevere’s Biscottificio Innocenti.

The 2000-year-old Pyramid of Cestius was built after Rome's conquest of Egypt.
The 2000-year-old Pyramid of Cestius was built after Rome’s conquest of Egypt.

Looking down the nave of St. Peter's Basilica toward the dome.
Looking down the nave of St. Peter’s Basilica toward the dome.

Inside St. Peter's Basilica, Michelangelo's Pietà shows the body of Jesus laid across his mother's lap following the crucifixion.
Inside St. Peter’s Basilica, Michelangelo’s Pietà shows the body of Jesus laid across his mother’s lap following the crucifixion.

A flower truck parked near Via dei Gracchi on Rome's north side.
A flower truck parked near Via dei Gracchi on Rome’s north side.

Looking over the shoulder of the goddess of Rome at Piazza del Popolo.
Looking over the shoulder of the goddess of Rome at Piazza del Popolo.

Famous Italians are memorialized in 228 busts that fill the Pincian Hill Gardens near Villa Borgehese. The light after a hard, fast rain was beautiful!
Famous Italians are memorialized in 228 busts that fill the Pincian Hill Gardens near Villa Borgehese. The light after a hard, fast rain was beautiful!

Fontana Oscura (Dark Fountain) in Villa Borghese during a rain shower.
Fontana Oscura (Dark Fountain) in Villa Borghese during a rain shower.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 42: Pizza and Piazzas

Flowers at the Campo de' Fiori market.

It was around 5 a.m. when the constant trilling of the doorbell told me I was doomed to never sleep again. An early arriver to the B&B with no apparent concept of time or decorum kickstarted day 42 a couple hours earlier than expected. But when life gives you lemons at the crack of dawn in Rome, toss them aside and grab a double shot of espresso!

The early wake-up call gave us a head start on the rest of the tourists. Following a walking tour of Centro Storico’s public squares—or piazzas—we started at the Campo de’ Fiori market.

Italian for “Field of Flowers,” Rome’s oldest market has run daily since 1869. Thanks to its name, it’s commonly thought to be a flower market, but originally offered just fresh fish and produce. Today, locals come for groceries, gourmet cheese and even some fresh flowers (pictured above) while tourists are tempted by the carry-on-sized oils, vinegars, salts and more.

At the popular Piazza Navona, we hung a right into the less-touristy Piazza Sant’Eustachio, home to an 8th-century church of the same name. We quickly passed through Piazza della Rotonda, where the morning crowds began to gather at the Pantheon, and continued into the church courtyard of Piazza di Sant’Ignazio.

We joined the locals for a second round of coffee in Piazza di Pietra, named for the imposing ruins of the Temple of Hadrian, before finishing our walk at Piazza Colonna. A popular public square predating the Middle Ages, the Column of Marcus Aurelius dating to 193 A.D. is the main attraction.

We returned to Trastevere for lunch at Forno La Renella. The popular bakery draws hefty crowds for pizza at lunchtime, but is most famous for its breads. The shop’s oven has been pumping out classic Italian breads since 1870, cooked to perfection by a fire fueled by hazelnut shells. The nutty smell fills the streets and reportedly infiltrates the bread as well, but after a couple giant slices of pizza, it was impossible to confirm this personally.

We walked off our lunch a little bit, then set out on a mission to find another bakery we’d read about after leaving Rome the first time around. Biscottificio Innocenti is tucked away from Trastevere’s town center on a side street in a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it storefront. Even more popular with locals than tourists, Innocenti pumps out piles of Rome’s best cookies on a 60-year-old conveyor belt oven that fills the center of the small shop.

Opened in 1920, the third-generation owner was delightfully cheerful and patient as we perused the two dozen options in the window display. She offered suggestions as she filled the bag with tasty treats. The shop’s most popular cookie is a hazelnut-flavored mound of goodness called brutti ma buoni, literally “ugly but good.”

While we sat on the single bench and sampled our bounty, the owner dropped a couple hot-off-the-belt almond cookies in our bag. Others came and went, clearly regulars who knew both the owner and the cookie selection well. Cookies = Love.

In the evening, we geared up for the crowds and headed back to Centro Storico to visit Trevi Fountain. We’d visited once before during the day, but the view at night is equally stunning. The floodlit facade and water illuminated from beneath make the fountain glow. We sat for awhile, appreciating the beauty while ignoring the selfie stick users and vendors. Finally, we tossed our coins in the fountain, thrown with the right hand over the left shoulder, to ensure a return to Rome in the future.


The statue of Giordano Bruno looks over the market in Campo de' Fiori.
The statue of Giordano Bruno looks over the market in Campo de’ Fiori.

A busy side street near Rome's famous Pantheon.
A busy side street leading to Piazza della Rotonda, home of Rome’s famous Pantheon.

The Pantheon
The Pantheon

The charming Piazza di Sant'Ignazio is the community center for Sant'Ignazio Church.
The charming Piazza di Sant’Ignazio is the community center for Sant’Ignazio Church.

A baker at Biscottificio Artigiano Innocenti takes a sheet of cookies out of the conveyor belt oven.
A baker at Biscottificio Artigiano Innocenti takes a sheet of cookies out of the conveyor belt oven.

The popular Trevi Fountain at night.
The popular Trevi Fountain at night.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 41: Rome Redux

Looking back toward Testaccio from the Ponte Testaccio bridge.

There was a sense of relief when the overnight train from Vienna pulled into Rome’s Termini Station. For the first time on the trip, we knew exactly where to go. The same bus going to the same Trastevere bed and breakfast where the same host—the wonderful Danilo at BB Danilo—would be waiting for us. No orientation necessary meant we could just start enjoying the city.

We really loved Rome the first time around and wondered if it was just the thrill of a new city or the city itself. It didn’t take long to figure out it was the latter. We enjoyed a quick espresso with Danilo, then set out on the town.

Having checked out most of the major sights last time, we could focus on exploring some different parts of Rome this time, starting with the Porta Portese Flea Market along the Tiber River in Trastevere. Open every Sunday, the nearly mile-long market starts at the Ponte Sublicio bridge and runs down Via Portuense before spilling into the side streets at the Ponte Testaccio bridge.

The somewhat-chaotic market is great if you’re looking for cheap bags, clothing or knick knacks and the aggressive vendors are open to haggling. Chances are the products aren’t exactly what they claim (“Of course it’s made in Italy!”), but even if you don’t buy anything, it’s worth a trip just for the experience.

At the end of the market, we crossed the Ponte Testaccio bridge where several cars were parked in front of a dilapidating complex. We figured they were coming across the bridge for the flea market, but instead they were walking into the complex. Seemed prudent to see where they were going!

The rundown complex was a former location for the Peroni Brewery and a slaughterhouse built in the late 1800s. Vacant for two decades, the MACRO, Rome’s Museum of Contemporary Art, took over the grounds in 2000, sharing the space with the Sapienza University of Rome School of Architecture.

We followed the others through the grounds into a large courtyard on the other side where the Città dell’Altra Economia farmers market was in full swing. We’d found our people as vendors sold organic products, arts, crafts and food. Local artists sold their works from the trunks of their cars at the Car Boot Market. Café Boario was just starting to populate their mostly-vegetarian buffet, taking care of our lunch for the day.

After a little rest to recuperate from the lack of sleep on the train, we headed back into Trastevere’s old town. Trastevere is unique compared to Rome’s sightseeing center. While there are still tourists, there’s also a lot of locals, including a younger crowd of ex-pats thanks to the two American universities located in the neighborhood.

We had an early dinner followed by gelato at the popular Checco er Carettiere restaurant. The crowds at the cafes started to pick up as Roman dinnertime started around 8 p.m. We wandered the cobblestone streets, taking in the ambience, until the rain forced us to call it night.


The Porta Portese Flea Market in Trastevere.
The Porta Portese Flea Market in Trastevere.

Entering the mysterious Peroni Brewery/slaughterhouse complex...
Entering the mysterious Peroni Brewery/slaughterhouse complex…

... and the Citta dell’Altra Economia farmers market that emerged on the other side!
… and the Citta dell’Altra Economia farmers market that emerged on the other side!

The charming streets of Trastevere at night.
The charming streets of Trastevere at night.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 4: Ancient Rome

The columns of the Temple of Saturn (between 497-42 B.C.), the Arch of Septimius Severus (203 A.D.) and the Santi Luca e Martina church (625 A.D.) are some of the most famous sights of the ruins of the Roman Forum. For centuries, the Forum was the center of Rome. Today, major excavations and restoration projects are ongoing as the history of the once-great marketplace continues to reveal itself.

On the morning of our last day in Rome, we walked around the ancient part of the city. It’s a bit mind-blowing to think about walking the same streets and seeing the same sights as a society living 2,000 years ago. Roman architectural and construction methods were so advanced that some of the techniques lost during the Middle Ages, such as insulated glazing (double-pane windows), weren’t rediscovered until the 20th century.

The columns of the Temple of Saturn (between 497-42 B.C.), the Arch of Septimius Severus (203 A.D.) and the Santi Luca e Martina church (625 A.D.) are some of the most famous sights of the ruins of the Roman Forum. For centuries, the Forum was the center of Rome. Today, major excavations and restoration projects are ongoing as the history of the once-great marketplace continues to reveal itself.


The extravagant Altare della Patria is a relatively new monument, built between 1885 and 1911 to honor King Victor Emmanuel. It was controversial at the time of construction as it utilizes every architectural cliche of Roman construction aesthetics and was considered by many to be over the top. It also razed a Medieval-era neighborhood to clear a site directly at the fringe of the Roman Forum ruins.
The extravagant Altare della Patria is a relatively new monument, built between 1885 and 1911 to honor King Victor Emmanuel. It was controversial at the time of construction as it utilizes every architectural cliche of Roman construction aesthetics and was considered by many to be over the top. It also razed a Medieval-era neighborhood to clear a site directly at the fringe of the Roman Forum ruins.


A statue of Caesar stands along the ruins of the Trajan Forum. The dome of Santa Maria di Loreto, a 16th-century Catholic church, stands in the background.
A statue of Caesar stands along the ruins of the Trajan Forum. The dome of Santa Maria di Loreto, a 16th-century Catholic church, stands in the background.

Small brass plates have replaced 100 of the millions of cobblestones in the streets of Rome. They're part of a project by German artist Gunter Demnig to commemorate victims of the Holocaust. These two plaques were in front of the home where Alfredo Di Nola and Livia Seta lived when they were taken to the Auschwitz concentration camp. Demnig has set more than 48,000 plaques in 18 European countries, making it the world's largest memorial.
Small brass plates have replaced 100 of the millions of cobblestones in the streets of Rome. They’re part of a project by German artist Gunter Demnig to commemorate victims of the Holocaust. These two plaques were in front of the home where Alfredo Di Nola and Livia Seta lived when they were taken to the Auschwitz concentration camp. Demnig has set more than 48,000 plaques in 18 European countries, making it the world’s largest memorial.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 3: The Pope’s Place

The Vatican is more than the world headquarters for the Catholic Church. It's also home to a world-class collection of art from some of the great masters including Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Carvaggio and Raphael. Some of the most prolific work belongs to Rafael, including the four rooms of the Papal apartment known as the Stanze di Raffaello or Rafael Rooms. The rooms are covered in extravagant frescos detailing various tales from Christianity. Ceiling medallions such as this one, entitled "Poetry," depict some of the core tenants of the religion. The phrases held by the angels read "Touched by the Breath of God."

The Vatican is more than the world headquarters for the Catholic Church. It’s also home to a world-class collection of art from some of the great masters including Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Carvaggio and Raphael. Some of the most prolific work belongs to Rafael, including the four rooms of the Papal apartment known as the Stanze di Raffaello or Rafael Rooms.

The rooms are covered in extravagant frescos detailing various tales from Christianity. Ceiling medallions such as this one, entitled “Poetry,” depict some of the core tenants of the religion. The phrases held by the angels read “Touched by the Breath of God.”

A note on the Sistine Chapel: We walked through Michelangelo’s masterful works in the Sistine Chapel twice during our visit and it was as impressive as we are led to believe. Photos are prohibited in the chapel as it’s considered a place of worship. You can find tons of pictures online from people who ignore the no-photo rule. While not religious myself, I believe in respecting the sacred spaces of those who are, hence no Sistine Chapel photos in our collection.


Fontana dell'Acqua Paola, aptly nicknamed "The Big Fountain," sits atop the Giancolo hill near Trastevere. Built in 1612, it was the first major fountain on the Tiber Riber's left bank. We hiked up the hill early in the day, enjoying the sights of the churches and monuments of San Pietro in Montorio.
Fontana dell’Acqua Paola, aptly nicknamed “The Big Fountain,” sits atop the Giancolo hill near Trastevere. Built in 1612, it was the first major fountain on the Tiber Riber’s left bank. We hiked up the hill early in the day, enjoying the sights of the churches and monuments of San Pietro in Montorio.

Opposite the fountain, we had amazing views of Rome from St. Peter's Basilica to the Forum.
Opposite the fountain, we had amazing views of Rome from St. Peter’s Basilica to the Forum.

Atop Giancolo, we found a widespread tribute to Giuseppe Garibaldi, a 19th century Italian military hero and the namesake of a small seaside town in our home state! But even better, we found an espresso stand! Italy is the best!
Atop Giancolo, we found a widespread tribute to Giuseppe Garibaldi, a 19th century Italian military hero and the namesake of a small seaside town in our home state! But even better, we found an espresso stand! Italy is the best!

In the 1500s, Pope Gregory XVIII commissioned a priest/cartographer named Ignazio Dante to fill the 400 feet long hallway of the Belvedere Courtyard's third floor with maps featuring battles, waterways and detailed regional topography. The ceiling, painted by a group of artists, depicts scenes corresponding to each map.
In the 1500s, Pope Gregory XVIII commissioned a priest/cartographer named Ignazio Dante to fill the 400 feet long hallway of the Belvedere Courtyard’s third floor with maps featuring battles, waterways and detailed regional topography. The ceiling, painted by a group of artists, depicts scenes corresponding to each map.

The Belvedere Torso is one of the most important pieces in the Vatican collection. While the artist who carved it around 1 A.D. is relatively unknown, the piece had a huge influence on 16th century artists, in particular Michelangelo, who patterned the figures of many of the frescos in the Sistine Chapel off the sculpture.
The Belvedere Torso is one of the most important pieces in the Vatican collection. While the artist who carved it around 1 A.D. is relatively unknown, the piece had a huge influence on 16th century artists, in particular Michelangelo, who patterned the figures of many of the frescos in the Sistine Chapel off the sculpture.

A sculpture of river god Arno reclines in the Vatican's Octagonal Courtyard. The sculpture was originally carved in the second century, but restored and changed throughout the centuries by various artists. The current form is the result of Renaissance-era artists in the 16th century.
A sculpture of river god Arno reclines in the Vatican’s Octagonal Courtyard. The sculpture was originally carved in the second century, but restored and changed throughout the centuries by various artists. The current form is the result of Renaissance-era artists in the 16th century.

Transfiguration is the last work completed by Raphael before his death in 1520. It was taken by Napoleon's troops during their invasion of Italy in 1797 and installed in the Louvre. It was returned to the Vatican in 1815 where it has been displayed since.
Transfiguration is the last work completed by Raphael before his death in 1520. It was taken by Napoleon’s troops during their invasion of Italy in 1797 and installed in the Louvre. It was returned to the Vatican in 1815 where it has been displayed since.

A stained glass piece in the Vatican Museum.
A stained glass piece in the Vatican Museum.

Sphere Within a Sphere, a modern piece by Arnaldo Pomodoro, sits in the Belvedere Courtyard. St. Peter's Basilica can be seen in the distance. The sphere was originally designed for the Vatican in 1990 and has been duplicated for installations around the world.
Sphere Within a Sphere, a modern piece by Arnaldo Pomodoro, sits in the Belvedere Courtyard. St. Peter’s Basilica can be seen in the distance. The sphere was originally designed for the Vatican in 1990 and has been duplicated for installations around the world.

The aptly named Hall of Busts contains an impressive collection of famous faces from the empires of ancient Greece and Rome.
The aptly named Hall of Busts contains an impressive collection of famous faces from the empires of ancient Greece and Rome.

The exit of the Vatican Museum takes you down a steep spiral staircase (really it's a ramp with speed bumps). Most folks took pictures from the top looking down, but the view looking up was quite stunning.
The exit of the Vatican Museum takes you down a steep spiral staircase (really it’s a ramp with speed bumps). Most folks took pictures from the top looking down, but the view looking up was quite stunning.

Four hours in the Vatican Museum (including two trips through the Sistine Chapel) looks like this...
Four hours in the Vatican Museum (including two trips through the Sistine Chapel) looks like this…

We searched far and wide for Rome's best gelato and found it a short walk from the Vatican. Lemongrass has a philosophy about its ice cream that includes touting the nutritive qualities of its natural flavors. It played out in the amazing, Roman-influenced flavors like this mixture of bacio (like Nutella!), gianduja and pistachio.
We searched far and wide for Rome’s best gelato and found it a short walk from the Vatican. Lemongrass has a philosophy about its ice cream that includes touting the nutritive qualities of its natural flavors. It played out in the amazing, Roman-influenced flavors like this mixture of bacio (like Nutella!), gianduja and pistachio.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 2: When in Rome

On our second day in Rome, we visited the famous Trevi Fountain. The 86-foot tall fountain was built in the 1700s as part of a design competition sponsored by Pope Clement XII, a popular Baroque-era method for designing the magnificent structures of Rome. The fountain took more than 30 years to complete and the architect, Nicola Salvi, died before it was completed.

On our second day in Rome, we tried to visit as many of the must-sees as we could, including the famous Trevi Fountain.

The 86-foot tall fountain was built in the 1700s as part of a design competition sponsored by Pope Clement XII, a popular Baroque-era method for designing the magnificent structures of Rome. The fountain took more than 30 years to complete and the architect, Nicola Salvi, died before it was finished.

It’s estimated that more than 3,000 euros are thrown into the fountain every day. The funds have been used to build a supermarket offering basic items for free to families in need.


Pope Francis greets the Vatican cardinals following his weekly Wednesday audience with the general public. After the service, the Pope waded into the crowd as they chanted his name.
Pope Francis greets the Vatican cardinals following his weekly Wednesday audience with the general public. After the service, the Pope waded into the crowd as they chanted his name.

The crowd begins to disperse in front of the Vatican's St. Peter's Square following Pope Francis's weekly audience.
The crowd begins to disperse in front of the Vatican’s St. Peter’s Square following Pope Francis’s weekly audience.

St. Peter's Basilica as seen from Via Dei Corridori. I love the optical illusion of the street lamps "bending" down the street.
St. Peter’s Basilica as seen from Via Dei Corridori. I love the optical illusion of the street lamps “bending” down the street.

One of the angel statues lining the Ponte Sant'Angelo bridge leading to the Castle of St. Angelo. The castle was built in the second century as a mausoleum for the Roman Emperor Hadrian. Over the last 2,000 years, it's served as a military fortress, an emergency Papal residence, a prison and now as a museum.
One of the angel statues lining the Ponte Sant’Angelo bridge leading to the Castle of St. Angelo. The castle was built in the second century as a mausoleum for the Roman Emperor Hadrian. Over the last 2,000 years, it’s served as a military fortress, an emergency Papal residence, a prison and now as a museum.

Built in the 1700s, the Spanish Steps link the Trinità dei Monti church to the Plaza of the Spanish Embassy to the Vatican at street level. Usually a popular hang out space for Romans and tourists alike, the steps are currently closed for restoration due to wear and tear from all those tourists. Luxury jewelry brand Bulgari is footing the bulk of the restoration bill.
Built in the 1700s, the Spanish Steps link the Trinità dei Monti church to the Plaza of the Spanish Embassy to the Vatican at street level. Usually a popular hang out space for Romans and tourists alike, the steps are currently closed for restoration due to wear and tear from all those tourists. Luxury jewelry brand Bulgari is footing the bulk of the restoration bill.

Trinità dei Monti is an excellent example of Italian Renaissance architecture. During Napoleon's occupation of Rome, many of the church's adornments were damaged or looted. The church was restored at the expense of French King Louis XVIII in 1816. Among the works inside is this sculpture called Deposition by German sculptor Wilhelm Achtermann depicting the descent of Jesus from the cross.
Trinità dei Monti is an excellent example of Italian Renaissance architecture. During Napoleon’s occupation of Rome, many of the church’s adornments were damaged or looted. The church was restored at the expense of French King Louis XVIII in 1816. Among the works inside is this sculpture called Deposition by German sculptor Wilhelm Achtermann depicting the descent of Jesus from the cross.

The streets of Italy's largest city are still paved in cobblestone. Locally, the stones are known as "SanPietrini," or "Little St. Peters." The name most likely came from the stones first appearing in St. Peter's Square, but local legend says there's one cobblestone for every soul saved by St. Peter. If that's the case, that's a lot of souls!
The streets of Italy’s largest city are still paved in cobblestone. Locally, the stones are known as “SanPietrini,” or “Little St. Peters.” The name most likely came from the stones first appearing in St. Peter’s Square, but local legend says there’s one cobblestone for every soul saved by St. Peter. If that’s the case, that’s a lot of souls!

A typical Rome apartment building. The disrepair of the outside is quite beautiful, fitting into the rustic look that dominates this ancient city.
A typical Rome apartment building. The disrepair of the outside is quite beautiful, fitting into the rustic look that dominates this ancient city.

A restored Italian coupe parked in an alley in the Trastevere neighborhood. The district retained its distinct old world charm due in part to its separation from the rest of Rome by the Tiber River.
A restored Italian coupe parked in an alley in the Trastevere neighborhood. The district retained its distinct old world charm due in part to its separation from the rest of Rome by the Tiber River.

Closing time in a shop near the Campo de' Fiori market.
Closing time in a shop near the Campo de’ Fiori market.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 1: Benvenuto a Roma

Rome's Colosseum was built in the first century A.D., holding an estimated 80,000 spectators for gladiator flights, war reenactment and other entertainment events. On a cold January night nearly 2,000 years later, just a few of us sat along the stone rail at the end of Via Del Serpenti to enjoy the architectural marvel in all its splendor.

It took 17 hours to leave the bone-chilling cold wave in Tokyo behind. After a brief layover in Doha, Qatar, we arrived in Rome to get our 40-something day adventure through Europe underway. And we wasted no time in getting started!

Rome’s Colosseum was built in the first century A.D., holding an estimated 80,000 spectators for gladiator flights, war reenactment and other entertainment events. On a cold January night nearly 2,000 years later, just a few of us sat along the stone rail at the end of Via Del Serpenti to enjoy the architectural marvel in all its splendor.


The Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere is one of Rome's oldest churches. The public square in front of the church is one of the charming Trastevere districts liveliest community spaces.
The Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere is one of Rome’s oldest churches. The public square in front of the church is one of the charming Trastevere districts liveliest community spaces.

The afternoon sun made the bright earth tones of Rome's buildings glow as we crossed the Ponte Sisto bridge. I especially liked the cast of the long shadows, including the "BAR" sign on the wall opposite the alley.
The afternoon sun made the bright earth tones of Rome’s buildings glow as we crossed the Ponte Sisto bridge. I especially liked the cast of the long shadows, including the “BAR” sign on the wall opposite the alley.

The Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of Four Rivers) stands at the middle of Piazza Navona, a 15th century public square. Sant'Agnese in Agone, a 17th century Baroque church, soaks up the setting sun in the background.
The Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of Four Rivers) stands at the middle of Piazza Navona, a 15th century public square. Sant’Agnese in Agone, a 17th century Baroque church, soaks up the setting sun in the background.

The Pantheon is one of Rome's most famous architectural masterpieces... and that's saying something for a city full of them. It's been in continuous use since its completion in 128 A.D., serving as a Catholic Church since the seventh century and still holding regular services today. The rotunda is its most recognizable feature and is the largest I reinforced concrete dome in the world.
The Pantheon is one of Rome’s most famous architectural masterpieces… and that’s saying something for a city full of them. It’s been in continuous use since its completion in 128 A.D., serving as a Catholic Church since the seventh century and still holding regular services today. The rotunda is its most recognizable feature and is the largest I reinforced concrete dome in the world.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe