Tokyo - Cascadian Abroad

Shibuya

April 17, 2014 by Robert Haddan

Last weekend, we ventured back into Tokyo for a day in Shibuya. Shibuya is the Tokyo you see on television. Towering buildings feature video screens instead of windows. Shopping centers feature all the latest trends, including malls with dozens of stores focused exclusively on clothing for teen and 20-something women.

Shibuya Crossing is one of the most famous “scramble” crosswalks in the world. When the walk signal flashes, people cross the road at every axis. You really get a flavor of Tokyo as an international tourist destination in Shibuya, with a variety of faces and languages exploring the streets. According to Time Out Tokyo magazine, it’s the number 1 visited location in Tokyo among tourists.

For me, the most charming part of Shibuya comes from its history. There are multiple references and memorials to Hachiko, the loyal dog. Everyday, Hachiko would make the walk from his home to meet his owner at Shibuya Station. Even after his master passed away, Hachiko would continue to travel to the station each afternoon in search of him.

He became a celebrity among those traveling through Shibuya Station and is now immortalized in statue and mural form at the station as well as on t-shirts, pens and postcards.

Originally, Shibuya was the gateway to Tokyo for those traveling east from Osaka and Kyoto. As Tokyo grew, Shibuya transformed to support the economic needs of the capitol. After World War II ended, the modern commercial transformation of Shibuya began.

The district is continuing its transformation with a detailed urban development plan, scheduled to be complete in 2027, featuring a combination of office and retail complexes with significant, pedestrian-friendly green spaces.

Tokyo – Ikebukuro and Ueno

April 8, 2014 by Robert Haddan

No matter where you are in the world, unexpected adventures are always a good thing. Such was the case with last weekend’s day trip, our first into Tokyo.

We planned to stop first in Ikebukero, a district in west Tokyo, to find a Taiwanese restaurant that specialized in vegetarian dishes. We’re still traveling without smartphones, so all we had to go off was some loose directions from a website and the city maps at the Ikebukuro train station.

We started walking and, within a couple blocks, stumbled upon a festival celebrating Taiwan and its heritage. There were even inflatable replicas of yours truly!

Ikebukuro — Which one is real and which one is inflatable?

We looked at a couple vendor stands, listened briefly to what must have been the opening address and then headed out in search of our restaurant.

As with many of these uncharted trips, we didn’t reach our destination. We’ve yet to figure out the street numbering convention. At present, I’m convinced it’s the worst way to identify addresses in the known universe. Check back in a couple months and maybe I’ll have a better attitude.

Fortunately, the festival had two booths serving exactly what we were in search of: Taiwanese vegetarian food! And even better, we finally found vegetarian gyoza! Those little pan fried, stuffed dumplings are so good, but usually so filled with pork. It was easily the best purchased meal I’ve had since we’ve arrived in Japan.

The festival also featured some amazing entertainment. All performed by young people, it was impossible to take your eyes off the stage.

A group of pre-teens pounded out the beautiful rhythm of taiko drums.

These young men and women put on an exciting display of dragon wizardry.

These beautiful young ladies entranced the crowd with their choreographed dance.

At the end of the show, we headed back to the station and caught the next train to Ueno Park to see the cherry blossoms in full bloom. You can read Viktoria’s post on the magic of sakura and the geisha picnic.

We took a lap around Shinobazu Pond, where children of all ages peddled and rowed their way in rowboats, paddleboats, and swan boats.

We’ll definitely be back to Ueno Park to visit the National Museum and some of the other sights in the area.

Sakura

April 7, 2014 by Viktoria Haddan

Early April is a magical time to be in Japan. There is a nationwide obsession with the “sakura,” or cherry blossoms. And sakura fever is infectious.

Late March when we arrived to our hometown, Kawagoe, we started to see glimpses of this fever. The innocent pink blooms start to stand out among the grayness of the city and the bareness of winter. A seemingly stoic passerby would suddenly stop and produce a camera to zoom in on a perfect shot of a colorful limb.

The cherry blossoms set a perfect scene on campus at Tokyo International University as students and parents gathered for the school’s opening ceremonies in early April. The perfect symbolism for renewal, a new school year.

On Saturday, we had an opportunity to see firsthand the “Hanami,” or cherry blossom viewing parties at Tokyo’s Ueno-kōen (park).

On the train and the crowded streets outside of Ueno, it’s business as usual. You’d never guess what you’re about to see. We followed the masses.

Upon entering, the mad rush of the city floats away and is absorbed by the petals of flowering tree after tree after tree after tree.

Hundreds of cameras emerge, and we, too, try to capture the sight. But it’s futile. No picture can describe this. Better to put the camera away and enjoy the moment.

Part of the Hinami is picnics under the trees. Friends and families gather and stake out their spot with tarps, food and drink. The shoes come off and the party begins. As our guidebook puts it, “locals gather…for rare public displays of euphoria.” Euphoria and maybe a little public drunkenness. But come on, this only happens once a year! The Japanese define what it means to work hard, play hard.

Geishas in the park — Typical? Probably not. But we’re tourists so we flock to see the geishas.

Part of this seasonal madness is sakura-flavored everything. Drinks, pastries, ice cream, candy, you name it! Get it while it lasts. I had the opportunity to try sakura-flavored ice cream and it was one of the best ice cream cones I’ve had here. Not that I’ve sampled a lot or anything.

How does a cherry blossom taste, you ask? My answer: not too sweet, a little flowery and definitely a little bit magical.