Robert Haddan

Day 14: Terracotta Warriors

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When we started looking at our China travel options, I had two requirements: the Great Wall and the Terracotta Warriors. Both requirements have now been satisfied!

The terracotta army of Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor of China's first dynasty. He ordered the construction of the army during the third century B.C. to protect his tomb in the afterlife, but three years after his death, his empire was overthrown. The warriors were heavily damaged in the revolt and buried later as the wooden support beams rotted away. The army was rediscovered in 1974 by farmers who were digging a well.
The terracotta army of Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor of China’s first dynasty. He ordered the construction of the army during the third century B.C. to protect his tomb in the afterlife, but three years after his death, his empire was overthrown. The warriors were heavily damaged in the revolt and buried later as the wooden support beams rotted away. The army was rediscovered in 1974 by farmers who were digging a well.
Qin's terracotta army was created in the same manner as a human army, complete with generals, infantry, horse-drawn chariots and social structures. Each warrior was dressed in bronze and leather, and held different weapons. The bronze swords were still sharp enough to cut paper when they were rediscovered thanks to a chrome-plating method that died with the empire and would not be re-invented for another two millennia.
Qin’s terracotta army was created in the same manner as a human army, complete with generals, infantry, horse-drawn chariots and social structures. Each warrior was dressed in bronze and leather, and held different weapons. The bronze swords were still sharp enough to cut paper when they were rediscovered thanks to a chrome-plating method that died with the empire and would not be re-invented for another two millennia.
Qin's tomb was discovered two kilometers to the west of the army in a man made mound of earth the size of a small town. It's surrounded by rivers of mercury and the gas is so toxic that it has not yet been exhumed. His army faces east to draw life from the rising sun.
Qin’s tomb was discovered two kilometers to the west of the army in a man made mound of earth the size of a small town. It’s surrounded by rivers of mercury and the gas is so toxic that it has not yet been exhumed. His army faces east to draw life from the rising sun.

   

The faces and bodies of each soldier in the army is unique. They were constructed using extra-strong local clay that could be fired at twice the temperature of clays imported from Beijing. The resulting soldiers weigh between 200-300 lbs. each. Archeologists are still piecing together the soldiers and have restored around 2,000 of the 6,000-plus member army.
The faces and bodies of each soldier in the army is unique. They were constructed using extra-strong local clay that could be fired at twice the temperature of clays imported from Beijing. The resulting soldiers weigh between 200-300 lbs. each. Archeologists are still piecing together the soldiers and have restored around 2,000 of the 6,000-plus member army.
 

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Day 13: Xi’an

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On our first day in Xi’an, we visited the City Wall and rented bicycles to ride around the top of the 8.6 mile-long wall. Originally constructed in the 1300s, it was restored in the 20th century using bricks donated from the homes of the local people who volunteered to rebuild it. Throughout, you can see the names of the bricks owners carved into the wall.

 

Our fellow travelers mounted up and ready to ride around the Xi'an City Wall. We're joined on this trip by Australians, Canadians and a Swiss.
Our fellow travelers mounted up and ready to ride around the Xi’an City Wall. We’re joined on this trip by Australians, Canadians and a Swiss.
  

Xi'an's lively Muslim Quarter is full of both local specialties and traditional Muslim snacks. This sweet treat looked like yellow cake or pineapple on a stick, but was actually yellow glutinous rice mixed with honey and coated in a syrup. It tasted a lot better than it sounds!
Xi’an’s lively Muslim Quarter is full of both local specialties and traditional Muslim snacks. This sweet treat looked like yellow cake or pineapple on a stick, but was actually yellow glutinous rice mixed with honey and coated in a syrup. It tasted a lot better than it sounds!
Our time in the Muslim Quarter was cut short by a freak rainstorm that sent everyone scurrying for cover. on our rain-soaked walk back to the hotel, we picked up dinner from various local food stalls... a great way to get to know the local culture.
Our time in the Muslim Quarter was cut short by a freak rainstorm that sent everyone scurrying for cover. on our rain-soaked walk back to the hotel, we picked up dinner from various local food stalls… a great way to get to know the local culture.

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Day 12: Beijing Bonus Day

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After a long day on the Great Wall, we returned to Beijing with a few hours to spare before the train to Xi’an. Our original plans were disrupted by the busy Saturday afternoon subway delays and we instead found ourselves at Wangfujing Snack Street, famous for its skewers of live insects.

A portion of the Ming City Wall in Beijing. Part of the city's defenses, the wall was 15 miles long, however all but 1.2 miles were destroyed to build new highways and subway lines. Construction also diverted us after a few steps and we found ourselves in a decidedly non-tourist maze of local alleyways, where we followed a group of locals past shops and restaurants back to the main road.
A portion of the Ming City Wall in Beijing. Part of the city’s defenses, the wall was 15 miles long, however all but 1.2 miles were destroyed to build new highways and subway lines. Construction also diverted us after a few steps and we found ourselves in a decidedly non-tourist maze of local alleyways, where we followed a group of locals past shops and restaurants back to the main road.

 

Looking in the window of our overnight train from Beijing to Xi'an. It was surprisingly comfortable and we were gently awakened around 7 a.m. by the piped-in traditional Chinese music. A rider accompanying his elderly mother woke us about an hour before that with three hours of nonstop conversation in the aisle.
Looking in the window of our overnight train from Beijing to Xi’an. It was surprisingly comfortable and we were gently awakened around 7 a.m. by the piped-in traditional Chinese music. A rider accompanying his elderly mother woke us about an hour before that with three hours of nonstop conversation in the aisle.

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Day 11: The Great Wall at Jinshanling

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We spent an entire day walking atop the Great Wall in Jinshanling, a less-touristy area of the wall that was a great mix of restored wall and original wall. Some parts of this section of the Great Wall date to the 1300s.

Full of energy at the start of the day (around 9 a.m.) and jumping for joy at the prospect of a day walking the Wall.
Full of energy at the start of the day (around 9 a.m.) and jumping for joy at the prospect of a day walking the Wall.
Hiking up some of the steep steps between the different guard towers. It's easy to imagine soldiers protecting China from invaders with the intact fireplaces and lookouts.
Hiking up some of the steep steps between the different guard towers. It’s easy to imagine soldiers protecting China from invaders with the intact fireplaces and lookouts.
The area around the wall is mountainous, part of the defense strategy. The mountains also offered up greenery and beautiful mountain flowers, a nice contrast to Beijing's concrete jungle.
The area around the wall is mountainous, part of the defense strategy. The mountains also offered up greenery and beautiful mountain flowers, a nice contrast to Beijing’s concrete jungle.

  

The wall literally stretches as far as the eyes can see, disappearing into the horizon.
The wall literally stretches as far as the eyes can see, disappearing into the horizon.
The first part of the second leg of the hike has been heavily restored over the past 30 years, making it more appealing to the bus tourists from Beijing. However, after the first few towers, the Wall turns more towards its
The first part of the second leg of the hike has been heavily restored over the past 30 years, making it more appealing to the bus tourists from Beijing. However, after the first few towers, the Wall turns more towards its “ruins” state, with exposed holes in the brick and broken walkways.
Some parts of the wall have narrow elevated walkways, but with enough room to safely cross.
Some parts of the wall have narrow elevated walkways, but with enough room to safely cross.

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Day 10: Last Day in Beijing

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We spent four days in Beijing, gaining a better insight on China’s capital.  The changes taking place in China are perfectly illustrated on this shopping street near our hotel as Western brands blend with traditional shops and restaurants.

  

A tree-lined street leading to the Confucius Temple. We also found our second suprise craft brewpub in an adjacent hutong.
A tree-lined street leading to the Confucius Temple. We also found our second suprise craft brewpub in an adjacent hutong.
The gate to Guozijian Street and Confucius Temple.
The gate to Guozijian Street and Confucius Temple.
One of the many character-filled hutongs (alleyways) of Beijing.
One of the many character-filled hutongs (alleyways) of Beijing.
A local man at Gubeikou Village, our guesthouse near the Great Wall, enjoying watching his neighbors playing badminton.
A local man at Gubeikou Village, our guesthouse near the Great Wall, enjoying watching his neighbors playing badminton.

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Day 9: Chairman Mao and the Temple of Heaven

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Waiting in line to see Mao Zedong’s memorial is an event in its own right. The line zig-zagged through Tiananmen Square, around to the front of the giant mausoleum and back around to the other side again. An hour-long wait gets you less than five minutes inside where thousands of Chinese lay flowers at the feet of a statue of the Chairman before scuttling past his body laying in a preserved state of rest.

Another view of the line at Mao's mausoleum. Shortly after this picture was taken--and after 30 minutes in line--I was informed I couldn't bring my backpack or camera inside. Fortunately they let me check my bag at a nearby luggage check and re-enter the line.
Another view of the line at Mao’s mausoleum. Shortly after this picture was taken–and after 30 minutes in line–I was informed I couldn’t bring my backpack or camera inside. Fortunately they let me check my bag at a nearby luggage check and re-enter the line.
We walked around Beijing's Temple of Heaven park for about three hours. The tower in the back was used to pray for good harvest and is actually built using pillars made from Oregon fir trees.
We walked around Beijing’s Temple of Heaven park for about three hours. The tower in the back was used to pray for good harvest and is actually built using pillars made from Oregon fir trees.
The park at Temple of Heaven is popular with locals looking to practice dance, play cards or toss a frisbee. We were lucky to spot this woman among the knotted cypruss trees.
The park at Temple of Heaven is popular with locals looking to practice dance, play cards or toss a frisbee. We were lucky to spot this woman among the knotted cypruss trees.

 

A girl filled the park with giant bubbles.
A girl filled the park with giant bubbles.
   

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Day 8: Exploring Dongcheng North

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We took Beijing’s subway for the first time to Yonghegong Lama Temple where they provide free incense service for visitors. Three incense are burned at each temple for different types of prayers. The Tibetan Buddhism monastary is one of the few to survive the Cultural Revolution. 

 

We took a self-guided tour of Dongcheng's hutongs (alleyways). Many were once considered mansions for China's elite, but now they're a mix of retail and both high- and low-end residences.
We took a self-guided tour of Dongcheng’s hutongs (alleyways). Many were once considered mansions for China’s elite, but now they’re a mix of retail and both high- and low-end residences.
  

This fisherman was collecting seaweed from a small river near Maoer Hutong.
This fisherman was collecting seaweed from a small river near Maoer Hutong.
Sunset over Hoihai Park, a lively riverwalk area surrounded by bars and restaurants featuring live music.
Sunset over Hoihai Park, a lively riverwalk area surrounded by bars and restaurants featuring live music.

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Day 7: Beijing

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Our first day in Beijing, China! The golden lions guard a hall inside the sprawling Forbidden City complex.

Chairman Mao watches over us in front of the Forbidden City's outer gate.
Chairman Mao watches over us in front of the Forbidden City’s outer gate.
The Nine Dragon Screen inside the Forbidden City is one of the last of its kind in China
The Nine Dragon Screen inside the Forbidden City is one of the last of its kind in China
A young guard in Tiananmen Square gives us the side eye
A young guard in Tiananmen Square gives us the side eye

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