The summer of 1998 was my first in sleepy Monmouth, Ore. Best known as the home of Western Oregon University and the west coast’s last dry town, Monmouth had a permanent population right around 7,000 people in the late 1990s, but you’d be hard-pressed to find more than a few of them on a typical weekday.
I lived in a small duplex one block south of Main Street. On the morning of July 4, my roommate and I opened our curtains to discover cars parked end-to-end and people streaming en masse down our typically quiet street.
Certain the zombie apocalypse was upon us, we turned on the television for further instructions. Instead of warnings from the Emergency Broadcast System, we found the local television channel introducing the annual Western Days Parade.
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Members of the Western Oregon University drumline march in the 2016 Western Days Parade.
Kids are a big part of what makes the Western Days Parade a special event.
A classic fire truck in the Western Days Parade.
Smokey Bear catches a ride with the Oregon Department of Forestry during the 2016 Western Days Parade.
Western Oregon University mascot Wolfie served as Grand Marshal for the 2016 Western Days Parade in Monmouth/Independence, Ore.
A local florist decked out a float in red, white and blue flowers.
Even Abraham Lincoln turned out for the 2016 Western Days Parade.
No community parade is complete without an appearance by the local Shriners Club and their miniature cars.
It would be nearly 20 years later before I actually attended the parade in person. Small-town Americana is on full display as kids on bicycles and makeshift floats pulled by pickup trucks make their way down Main Street and through neighboring Independence before arriving at Riverview Park on the banks of the Willamette River.
Main Street in Monmouth, Ore. after the Western Days Parade.
Independence Day celebrations have a long history in Independence. The first recorded July 4 event was held in 1903. The all-day affair began at 9 a.m. with a parade of nearly 30 floats followed by a “Grand Barbecue.” The competition heated up in the afternoon with tug-o-war, pie eating contests and baseball games. A “Grand Ball” finished up the evening.
The event was also the first time many locals saw an automobile in person. The “horseless carriages” shuttled visitors between downtown Independence and Pioneer Park just under a mile away.
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The small town of Independence, Ore. was named an All-America City in 2014.
Fireworks at Riverview Park in Independence, Ore.
Fireworks at Riverview Park in Independence, Ore.
The celebration hasn’t changed much in the 114 years since that first event. The 2016 Western Days spanned four days with thousands of visitors coming in for the 5K fun run, parade and riverfront festival. Two nights of top-notch fireworks—funded through the hard work of year-around community fundraising efforts—anchor the holiday festivities.
The Independence Enterprise wrote after the first July 4 festival, “…the celebration of 1903 at Independence has set a new standard, a comparison to which will be drawn, and the highest compliment to be paid to any to come will be: It equals the splendid demonstration held at Independence in ’03.”
The community of Monmouth-Independence continues to set the bar high.
Special thanks to Peggy and Shannon at the Independence Heritage Museum for historical information about Independence Day in Independence, Ore.
Growing up in the northern end of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, it was easy to take the majesty of Mount Hood for granted. The glowing beacon in the east filled the horizon while effortlessly blending into the background.
Looking at the northwest face of Mount Hood from the Hood River Bridge.
It was only after moving away from the Valley that the iconic mountain became something more. When I’d drive home from college, it was the mountain that told me I was getting close. Living in Japan in the shadow of Mount Fuji, I would always be reminded of Mount Hood and how lucky I was to experience two of the world’s great natural creations on a regular basis.
Mount Hood might be the quintessential Oregon image with its perfectly pointy, snow-covered peak. But in true Oregon fashion, the natural beauty is just the first of many layers that tell the whole story of the mountain the Multnomah tribe called Wy’east.
At just over 11,000 feet, Oregon’s tallest mountain is also a semi-active volcano. Recent earthquake swarms, while common, served as a reminder that Hood is Oregon’s most likely candidate for a volcanic eruption, last bursting in 1865.
The summit of Mount Hood is mostly free of snow by mid-spring.
Eruption concerns don’t keep the visitors away. During the winter, Mount Hood is the ultimate playground for snow sports. Snowboarders and skiers come from around the world to tackle the miles of trails at Mount Hood Meadows, Timberline and Skibowl, home to the largest night skiing area in the U.S.
The surrounding national forest keeps things busy during the dry season, with more than 1,000 miles of hiking trails and 140 miles of mountain biking trails. We recently tackled a pair of gorgeous hikes, including the family-friendly Mirror Lake trail. The three-mile in-and-out hike slowly gains 700 feet of elevation via switchbacks from the trailhead to Mirror Lake. Views of Mount Hood’s peak reflecting in the aptly-named lake are simply breathtaking.
In the afternoon, we tackled a good portion of the seven-mile Ramona Falls trail. Crowds thin out after the first mile where the trail crosses the Sandy River. The bridge over the river was destroyed in a rainstorm in 2014 and has not been replaced, requiring hikers to brave the crossing via fallen tree trunks. Around mile three, the trail connects with the famous Pacific Crest Trail, leading to the wide, cascading waterfall.
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Historic Timberline Lodge near the summit of Mount Hood. The “cave” protecting the stairs from the snow was still in place in June.
The multi-floor fireplace in the Timberline Lodge lobby. The 90-foot chimney serves as the top of the iconic tower outside.
View of Mount Jefferson from Bruno Ski Lift on Mount Hood.
The snow-covered summit of Mount Hood begins to melt by early June.
With all the physical activities, it’s no surprise that the area also offers plenty of opportunities for relaxation. Timberline Lodge is among the most popular stops for tourists visiting the mountain. The National Historic Landmark was originally a project of the Works Progress Administration as a way to put people back to work after the Great Depression. The 40,000 square-foot lodge was finished in 1938 and dedicated by President Franklin D. Roosevelt himself.
Today, the lodge draws in freezing skiers and snowboarders who surround the six-sided, two-story fireplace in the lobby. A small museum tells the story of the construction and restoration of the lodge and includes displays of Native American art, artisan-built furniture and even Roosevelt’s chair. As a child of the 1980s, I was most impressed to learn that the drawing of the skier on a chairlift on the orange Pee-Chee folder was taken from a photo on Timberline’s “Magic Mile” chairlift. The photo of Merrie Douna riding the world’s second chairlift was also featured in a 1948 issue of Life magazine.
For out of town visitors, Timberline’s connection to popular culture is a major draw. The exterior of the lodge was featured in the 1980 Jack Nicholson classic The Shining as well as the film adaptation of Cheryl Strayed’s best-selling novel Wild.
On a warm day, a stop into the Mt. Hood Brewing Co. taphouse just off of Highway 26 in Government Camp is worthwhile. Six flagship brews and a handful of seasonals are served on a frozen rail built into the bar, invoking the feeling of winter even in the dog days of summer.
Timberline Lodge
From US-26, follow signs for Timberline Lodge. The lodge is open 24 hours. Check websitefor restaurant and lift hours.
Skibowl
From US-26, follow signs for Skibowl. See website for seasonal hours.
Mirror Lake Trailhead
On US-26, look for the roadside parking area about two miles west of Government Camp. A Northwest Forest Pass is required, but day passes can be purchased from stores on US-26. Family-friendly.
Ramona Falls Trailhead
From US-26, turn left onto E Lolo Pass Rd near Welches. Turn right onto Forest Road 1825 and turn right across the bridge in about a half-mile. Follow narrow road to large parking area. A Northwest Forest Pass is required, but day passes can be purchased from stores on US-26. Due to the dangerous river crossing, this is not a family-friendly hike.
The sprawling plateau of central Oregon’s high desert region is one of North America’s great adventure sports destinations. Mt. Bachelor tests experienced snowboarders and skiers during the winters. The Deschutes River draws rafters, kayakers and paddleboarders all summer long. Sprawling trails offer mountain bikers, hikers and trail runners endless possibilities.
A few miles north of Bend—central Oregon’s largest city—Smith Rock calls rock climbers from around the globe to the precipitous cliffs of its volcanic tuff. Carved out over the course of 30 million years by a collapsed volcanic crater, lava flows and finally shaped by the aptly-named Crooked River, the formation stands out from the surrounding flat farmland.
Smith Rock is widely known as the sport climbing capital of the world. More than 500 climbing routes provide opportunities for beginners and elite climbers alike. However, it was the challenging hiking trails that led us to the rock on a warm and sunny spring day.
The Crooked River helped shape the current geography of Smith Rock.
Even during the middle of the week, the ample parking area was full. A small interpretive center is surrounded by a shaded picnic area leading to the trailhead. Views from the top of the ridge are spectacular. The Crooked River winds through the formation while Mt. Washington with its distinctive pointed summit peeks out from a dip in the jagged rock.
Two paths lead from the parking area to the various trailheads. The subtle Canyon Trail takes a long loop along the rim walls down to the footbridge. The steep and rocky Chute is a straight shot for those hikers anxious to hit the trail.
Looking south toward Monkey Face from the River Trail at Smith Rock.
Across the bridge, two family-friendly trails offer an easy walk with great views of the cliffs and a front-row seat to watch the dozens of climbers attached to the walls. The mile-long Wolf Tree Trail follows the north end of the canyon while the 2.5-mile River Trail heads south and provides the best look at the famous Monkey Face.
The Misery Ridge trailhead follows steep switchbacks to the summit around 1,000 feet above.
Wanting more of a challenge, we went straight ahead to the Misery Ridge Trail. The steep and rocky switchback trail is less than a mile to the top, but difficult as it covers 1,000 feet of elevation gain on a narrow trail. Along the way, tiny dots of climbers cling to any available wall, leaving our legs weak just looking at them.
Looking north toward the Crooked River from the summit of the Misery Ridge Trail.
We approached the summit of the Misery Ridge Trail, encountering a few climbers who took the “easy” way to the top. We looked back at the challenging climb from the stone plateau where the Crooked River meandered below. We dared ourselves to take in the view, staying a safe distance from the edge of the sheer cliff.
Looking toward Mt. Bachelor and Three Sisters from the Misery Ridge Trail summit.
On the opposite side of the summit, the viewpoint opens up over the nearby cities of Redmond and Bend, all the way to the Cascade Mountain Range. We sat for awhile with a group of hikers from the Salem-area and watched as climbers tackled Smith Rock’s iconic Monkey Face.
Climbers descend Monkey Face.
Monkey Face is a 350-feet-tall rock spire that appears ready to topple at any time. Climbers ascend via multiple routes, including one known as Just Do It, considered one of the toughest free-climbing routes in the world. During our visit, the climbers descended over the monkey’s nose, resting on the mouth before dangling from their ropes and slowly lowering themselves to the rocks below.
A bald eagle soars majestically over the Mesa Verde Trail.
Misery Ridge connects to the Mesa Verde Trail for the descent with equally-steep switchbacks over loose gravel. The slow shuffle to the bottom took about an hour to cover just a mile, although we stopped for awhile to try and capture a photo of a bald eagle that swooped overhead.
A hummingbird zipped in and out of the grass near the river.
At the bottom, the trail levels out as it connects to the River Trail. We stopped repeatedly to take in the southern view of Monkey Face, where its namesake details are most visible. The River Trail expectedly follows the Crooked River back to the beginning of the trailhead.
Just when you think you’re done, a steep climb up The Chute or the Canyon Trail stands between you and your return to the top. We enjoyed a picnic lunch before making the long drive back to Portland.
If You Go…
Smith Rock State Park
From Bend, follow US-97 toward Terrebonne. Turn right on NW Smith Rock Way and left on NE 1st Street. Turn left on NE Crooked River Dr and follow the road to the parking area. Day use parking is $5 or free with an Oregon State Parks parking permit.
Misery Ridge Trail 3.7 miles, steep and rocky with about 1,000 feet of elevation gain. From the main parking lot, follow any trail toward the canyon. Take the Canyon Trail or The Chute across the footbridge and up the switchbacks at the trailhead marker. From the Monkey Face viewpoint at the summit, head down the left side toward the switchbacks connecting to the Mesa Verde Trail. As you approach the river, continue straight on the trail to connect to the River Trail and follow back to the trailhead at the footbridge.
Driving east on Interstate 84 from Portland, Ore. lies 80 miles of one of the most beautiful stretches of nature on the planet. Still largely undeveloped, the Columbia River Gorge is a playground for both locals and more than 3.5 million tourists annually.
The Gorge was formed over the course of 15 million years as the mighty Columbia River slowly eroded away the rock. Floods from the end of the Ice Age carved out the most dramatic features, exposing beautiful layers of volcanic rock. Looking at the Gorge today, with the river flowing strong some 4,000 feet below the top of the cliff walls, it’s a powerful image to imagine what it may have looked like as nature took its course.
On a recent sunny spring day, we headed for this natural wonderland, ultimately bound for the small town of Hood River. It didn’t take long to ditch the interstate for the more scenic Historic Columbia River Highway. The first planned scenic highway in the U.S., today’s HCRH runs for 40 miles through the forest, offering a gateway to many of the 90 waterfalls along the Oregon side of the Gorge.
Looking east from the Portland Women’s Forum State Scenic Viewpoint toward the Vista House on Crown Point and down the Columbia River Gorge.
Our first stop was the Portland Women’s Forum State Scenic Viewpoint, providing the most photographed view of the Columbia River Gorge. Just up the road, the Vista House at Crown Point unofficially marks the beginning of the Gorge. Built in 1916-18 as a resting area for the new highway, it now houses an excellent museum featuring the natural and human history of the Gorge.
Continuing east on the HCRH, rows of cars begin to appear on the shoulder of the narrow two-lane road. The waterfalls in this stretch—the most concentrated in all of North America—are the main draw for day-trippers from Portland looking to hike the scenic trails or just stop for photos or a picnic. Many of the falls are accessible by a short walk from the road or nearby parking lots.
Multnomah Falls is Oregon’s tallest waterfall at an estimated 620 feet tall. It flows year-round, making it a popular tourist destination all year long.
The biggest crowds are reserved for the magnificent Multnomah Falls. Oregon’s tallest waterfall drops in two parts—a long upper falls that collects into a basalt basin, giving way to a shorter lower falls. The best view is in front of the lower basin looking up at the footbridge, but a short walk up to the bridge is worthwhile.
Hiking to the top is a difficult march through steep switchbacks, but the views are worth it. You’ll also be rewarded with another waterfall—Little Multnomah—that can only be seen from the top.
From here, we followed the HCRH back to I-84 toward Hood River. Even on the modern freeway, there’s no shortage of sights along the way. The community of Bonneville is best known for the massive Bonneville Dam. Built in the 1930s as an initiative of the New Deal’s Public Works Administration, the dam provides power to more than 500,000 homes. It was named a National Historic Landmark in 1987.
Further up the river, the Bridge of the Gods crosses the Columbia River in the small city of Cascade Locks. The 90-year-old steel bridge gets its epic name from Klickitat tribe folklore, sharing its moniker with a land bridge created by a slide in 1100 A.D. The bridge also serves as the Columbia River crossing of the 2,659 mile-long Pacific Crest Trail, stretching from the Mexican border in California to the Canadian border in Washington.
The northeast face of Mt. Hood as seen from the Hood River Bridge.
We were ready to do some hiking of our own, although on a less grand scale than the PCT. Passing through Hood River, we quickly found ourselves at the payment window of the Hood River Toll Bridge without the requisite dollar for passage. A kind soul had left an extra dollar behind, covering our river crossing. On the way back—after a quick ATM stop—we left $2, one for our crossing and one to pay forward to the next forgetful traveler.
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A view of the Columbia River Gorge and Mt. Hood from the Catherine Creek Universal Access Trail on the Washington side.
Wildflowers along the Catherine Creek Universal Access Trail in Lyle, Wash.
Wildflowers along the Catherine Creek Universal Access Trail in Lyle, Wash.
Having safely forded the river, we continued east on the Washington side through the city of Bingen toward Catherine Creek. The Catherine Creek Trailhead offers something for everyone, from a short 1.2 mile walk through the Universal Access Trail (UAT) to a long, hilly 8.2 mile out-and-back to Coyote Wall.
Before we left for our two-year journey in Japan, we’d hiked the West Loop trail and its spectacular views of the Gorge and nearby Rowland Lake. This time, we opted for the two-mile Arch Loop hike, but first, we walked the loop around the UAT. The paved interpretive trail is packed with great views of the Gorge and Mt. Hood. Dozens of varieties of wildflowers bloom at different times of the year, always offering a punch of color. Benches offer places to rest and enjoy the scenery and the entire trail is wheelchair-accessible.
An abandoned corral along the Catherine Creek Arch Loop trail.
After our warmup, we headed out the stone and gravel path toward the Arch Loop trail. The easy trail has a bit of incline as it winds through the light forest, across Catherine Creek and between tall stone cliffs. Opposite an abandoned corral is the trail’s namesake arch rock. The area is fenced off as it is a sacred area for the local Native American tribes.
View of Mt. Hood and the Columbia River from the top of the Catherine Creek Arch Loop trail.
We followed the trail up to the top of the arch rock where views of Mt. Hood and the Gorge fill the skyline. The flatlands at the top offer a great opportunity to explore or just sit and enjoy the views. Eventually, we left the vista behind, following the edge of the cliff until the trail picked up again. The last stretch was a bit underwhelming as we made our way down onto the highway for the final quarter-mile, but overall, Catherine Creek is an enjoyable stroll.
We crossed back to Oregon and headed into Hood River for a stop at one of our favorite breweries. Full Sail Brewing is the largest, yet still maintains a local feel at its brewery and taproom overlooking the Columbia River. Full Sail’s simple flagship beers are widely available, but it’s here in Hood River where the mastery of the craft really shines with a variety of seasonals and Brewmaster Reserve recipes always on tap.
After enjoying the seasonal sampler, we took a walk around the downtown area. Although quiet on the weekday evening, the charming and easily-walkable downtown is lively on the weekends with great local restaurants and shops. We finished up with one last pint and a pizza at Double Mountain Brewery before heading back toward Portland.
Sunset over the Columbia River.
Perhaps the only view more stunning than the eastern vista on a sunny day is the western view on a clear evening. The sun began to set as we approached the viewpoint near the historical marker commemorating the British explorers of the H.M.S. Chatham in the 1790s. The fiery sky reflected off the calm waters of the river, slowly gradating to the indigo of the evening. A perfect ending to a great day in the Columbia River Gorge.
Vista House at Crown Point
Follow the Historic Columbia River Highway east from the Portland Women’s Forum State Scenic Viewpoint.
Multnomah Falls
Follow the Historic Columbia River Highway east from Crown Point or take I-84 E to exit 31 (left-hand exit) for the Multnomah Falls parking lot.
Catherine Creek Trailhead
From I-84 E, take exit 64 near Hood River and turn left for Button Bridge Rd. Cross the toll bridge ($1 each way for most vehicles) and turn right on WA-14. Just before Rowland Lake, turn left onto Old Highway 8 to the trailhead parking.
Full Sail Brewing
506 Columbia St, Hood River. Open daily from 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
Portlandia strikes an imposing form over SW 5th Ave. in Downtown Portland. The statue is the second-largest copper relief status in the U.S. after the New York’s Statue of Liberty.
Based on the seal of the City of Portland, she’s dressed in classic clothing and holds a trident in her left hand while reaching down with her right. Portlandia has been perched atop the entrance of the Portland Building since 1985.
Sculptor Raymond Kaskey maintained intellectual property rights over the statue. As a result, the image of Portlandia has been rarely used for commercial purposes. Most famously, you can see the statue in two shots during the opening credits of the Portlandia television show on IFC.
If you’ve followed Cascadian Abroad for the last couple years, you know we missed our Oregon craft beers during our time overseas. We did our best to fill the gap. We explored Japan’s growing ji-biru scene. We visited Prague with its world-class Pilsner and London, where IPAs, porters and stouts reign supreme. We bellied up to the bar in Brussels where wild yeast defines most styles. We even stumbled on two separate craft brewpubs in the hutongs of Beijing.
Yet, I can honestly say nothing tops the creativity and quality found here in Cascadia where the process is just as important as the product. Homebrewers with a dream have started some of the Pacific Northwest’s most successful small breweries. Obsessive detail is paid to everything from the ingredients used to the origin of barrels and other materials used in the brewing process.
Living the good life on the Oregon Coast with Bend, Ore.’s GoodLife Descender IPA.
Over the past month, we’ve revisited a few of our favorite places, tried a few new breweries and have even been treated to some unexpected tours. Here’s a small sample of some of the best Oregon has to offer.
Santiam Brewing
Salem’s Santiam Brewing started with a group of buddies experimenting in a small room in the back of an industrial park. Four years later, they’ve taken over most of the park, opened a large tasting room and are in the process of expanding even more.
We visited on the one day a month co-founder Matt Killikelly happened to be behind the bar and were treated to a tour of the operation. It’s a beautiful harmony of professional brewing and DIY ingenuity. Gleaming stainless steel fermenters fill one room while the large storage cooler—hand-built by staff—takes up another. Original equipment made from picnic coolers and fish tank parts now sit in the warehouse like museum artifacts.
Santiam—named for the North Santiam River that provides the brewery’s pristine water source—now has an impressive barrel-aging warehouse. Rum barrels from Jamaica give the amazing Pirate Stout its distinct sweet flavor. Other beers are aged in Tennessee whiskey barrels while Santiam’s new line of sours with their strains of wild yeast are tucked away in the back.
Must-try: Pirate Rum Barrel Aged Coconut Stout, Ecotopia IPA
Rogue Farms
Rogue Ales and Spirits is one of Oregon’s most successful craft breweries. Its flagship beers have wide distribution (we easily found bottles in Japan), but the real spirit of Rogue can only be found close to home.
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Fresh from the farm bottles and kegs at Rogue Farms in Independence, Ore.
The Rogue Farms 8-Hop IPA at the farm in Independence, Ore. Rows of Rogue’s proprietary hops can be seen growing in the background.
Rogue’s latest collaboration with Stumptown Coffee Roasters, the Cold Brew IPA.
Nestled along the banks of the Willamette River in tiny Independence, Ore., Rogue Farms is the core of the brewing operation. The long road to the tasting room is lined by acres of proprietary hops with names like Rebel, Freedom and Newport. Further in, groves of hazelnut trees, jalapeño plants, marionberries and pumpkins appear. Bee hives sit in the fields.
All of these are used as ingredients in Rogue’s specialty beers, brewed about an hour away on the Oregon Coast. We visited the farm on a beautiful sunny day in the middle of the week and enjoyed their farm-special IPAs at the picnic tables that surround a grassy square filled with lawn games.
While we played bean bag toss, two farm employees approached and asked if we’d be interested in a tour. The guide was a trainee and encouraged us to ask a lot of questions. We learned about the history of the farm, which has been growing hops since the 1860s, and walked through the hop processing facilities. We met the pet pigs, Voo and Doo, named for Rogue’s partnership with Portland’s Voodoo Doughnuts.
We left with a bottle of Rogue’s latest collaboration, the Cold Brew IPA featuring 200 gallons of Portland’s Stumptown Coffee Roasters Cold Brew Coffee.
Must-try: 7-Hop and 8-Hop IPAs, Chipotle Ale. Many of the taps are farm-only offerings, so sample the seasonals!
Around Oregon
Oregon’s Willamette Valley has earned international acclaim for its pinot noir grapes, but the prime agriculture land also yields excellent aromatic hops and resilient rye that can be found in the numerous IPAs, red ales and more in Oregon’s 220-plus breweries. Here’s a few off-the-path breweries not far from I-5.
The spring tap list at Deception Brewing in Dundee, Ore.
Deception Brewing, Dundee: The small town of Dundee has exploded in the past decade thanks to several vineyards in the hills above Highway 99W. Deception is a nano-brewery offering a break for wine-soaked tourists. The small taproom features 10 of the latest brews. Try the award-winning Apricot Cream Ale or the 80 Shilling Scottish Ale.
The spring tap list at Grain Station Brew Works in McMinnville, Ore.
Grain Station Brew Works, McMinnville: Sharing space with a coffee roaster in a restored barn, Grain Station embodies the agricultural spirit of its hometown. In addition to seven flagship beers, a handful of seasonals are available on draught and a large food menu draws in the locals. Try the unfiltered Sprout Hefeweizen, CDA-esque Hank’s Dark Ale or the complex Barnstormer Double Red.
Enjoying the Redside Prophet Imperial Red Ale and Proxima IPA on the patio at Hop Valley Brewing Company in Eugene, Ore.
Hop Valley Brewing, Eugene: Located on the outskirts of downtown Eugene, Hop Valley’s taproom will be packed with local beerphiles any night of the week. Thanks to a growing on-site bottling/canning process, Hop Valley beers are now available in retail around the Northwest, but getting seasonal choices fresh at the brewery is the way to go. My favorite is the VIP Vanilla Porter, but also try the Proxima IPA and Redside Prophet Imperial Red Ale.
The experience of a sunny spring day in downtown Portland, Ore. can compete with any city in the world. Rain-weary locals come out of the woodwork, decked out in shorts and flip-flops despite temperatures only reaching the upper-50s. Local markets and food carts sprout from the ground like tulips, dotting the city with a colorful garden of activity.
When touring your own city, you can choose to eschew the touristy things that bring visitors to your hometown or embrace them with open arms. We did the latter and took in all that Portland has to offer in one, long Saturday.
The year-round Portland Farmers Market at Portland State University in the South Park Blocks will celebrate its 25th anniversary in 2017.
We started out at the Portland Farmers Market. For 25 years, the year-round market lining the South Park Blocks near Portland State University has drawn both tourists and locals alike for produce, flowers, food and entertainment. We met up with Viktoria’s high school journalism teacher who lives in the area.
After scoring some fresh locally-grown vegetables and a cup of french-pressed coffee from Nossa Familia Coffee, we sat down for lunch at nearby East Side Delicatessen. The small deli has an awesome vegetarian menu, including custom-made sandwiches. The Veg-Italian sandwich on dark rye bread is pure joy.
A t-shirt featuring Portland’s various nicknames hangs above the Clever Dork Shirt Co. stand at Portland Saturday Market on the banks of the Willamette River.
With our parking meter nearing expiration, we moved toward the Willamette River to visit Portland Saturday Market. Once a counter-culture haven, the largest open-air market in the U.S. has grown over the last 40 years to take up a significant section of Old Town/Chinatown. The market has lost a bit of its edge over the years, but has firmly held onto its hippie ethos.
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The unofficial city motto, “Keep Portland Weird,” painted on the back of Dante’s on the edge of Old Town Chinatown.
Voodoo Doughnut is a Portland institution, now just as famous for the long lines of tourists as it is for its tasty, unique doughnuts.
A Unipiper sighting! Unicyclist Brian Kidd is famous for rolling around town in a Darth Vader helmet playing occasionally-flaming bagpipes.
Looking east over the Willamette River toward the Steel Bridge, Moda Center—home to the NBA’s Portland Trail Blazers—and the glass towers of the Oregon Convention Center.
The Sternwheeler Portland docked along the Willamette River at the Oregon Maritime Museum. It is the last operating steam-powered sternwheel tug in the U.S.
Old Town/Chinatown has seen significant change over the past decade-plus, establishing itself as a must-visit for many out-of-towners. The world-famous Voodoo Doughnut is a big part of that. Portlanders have a love/hate relationship with Voodoo in the years since tourists and television foodie shows discovered it. Weekend lines often stretch 100 deep down the sidewalk of SW 3rd Street and it’s not unusual to wait upwards of 30 minutes to get inside.
Embracing the full tourist experience, we hopped in line behind a couple visiting from Calgary, Alberta in Canada. Acting as surrogates for the Chamber of Commerce, we answered all of their questions about the city and even talked them into waiting in the doughnut line. Once we arrived at the front, they bought the classic Voodoo Doll, Bacon Maple Bar and cream-filled Cock-N-Balls. We opted for the head-sized Tex-Ass glazed doughnut and the Elvis-inspired Memphis Mafia, a banana fritter covered in chocolate and peanut butter.
Waterfront Park is the perfect place to walk off those extra-large doughnuts. Named for former governor Tom McCall, the 30-acre park was built in the 1970s to reconnect downtown Portland to the Willamette River. We even spotted the Unipiper, a Darth Vader-masked unicyclist who can often be seen spewing flames from his ever-present bagpipes.
To Oregon With Love, a mural by Blaine Fontana, is part of the Forest for the Trees mural project on Albert St. in NE Portland.
Part of a mural on the side of the Black United Fund of Oregon building. The 100-feet-long mural features iconic women of the civil rights movement, including Coretta Scott King, Ruby Bridges, Ruby Dee, Angela Davis and Maya Angelou.
Part of a mural on the side of the Black United Fund of Oregon building shows Ruby Dee, an actress as equally famous for her civil rights activism as she was for her art.
A mural of a mermaid on Alberta St. in NE Portland painted by local artist Pablo Garcia.
Keep Your Chin Up, a mural by Blaine Fontana, Zach Yarrington & Jun Inoue, is part of the Forest for the Trees mural project on Albert St. in NE Portland.
Next, we headed to Northeast Portland. While downtown gets all the attention, the eastside is where Portland’s “weird” culture truly lives. As the craft beer capital of the world—Portland is home to 61 breweries in the city limits, 91 in the metro area—it’s easy to find a place for a cold one. We stopped in at Breakside Brewery and Great Notion Brewing, then proceeded down NE Alberta Street.
The Alberta Arts District was once the heart of Portland’s African-American community, but gentrification has pushed long-term residents out while bringing in new shops, restaurants and housing focused on a higher-income market. As a result, Alberta Street is the subject of many national studies on the effects of gentrification.
Ignoring the cultural impacts, the street is a vibrant and lively mix of old and new Portland. The street is brightened by murals, some from the non-profit Forest For The Trees art project and others from local artists.
One of the most impressive is the recently-completed mural of female civil rights leaders painted on the side of the Black United Fund offices. The mural features portraits of Coretta Scott King, Ruby Bridges, Ruby Dee, Angela Davis, and Maya Angelou amongst powerful images of change and evolution.
We waited in one last line at the Salt & Straw artisanal ice cream shop for Portland’s best ice cream. Famous for collaborations with local chefs, brewers and more, the current menu features flavors created by neighborhood school children. The Elementary School Inventor Series has yielded some interesting flavors, including the Bean and Cheese Burrito featuring sweet red bean paste, cream cheese and soft tortilla strips.
Two years ago, we set out on an amazing adventure resulting in stamps from 20 new countries in our passports and a lifetime of memories.
On March 23, our time in Japan came to an end. Looking back, it’s hard to summarize the experience. From the first days, sorting out internet service while getting to know our new neighborhood (post #1 on Cascadian Abroad!), to the last days as seasoned travelers making our way around Europe, we’ve seen things we never thought we’d see and met people we’d never have met in the U.S.
Upon returning from Europe, we had just two weeks left in Japan. Most of that time was spent packing bags and cleaning out our apartment. Fortunately, we were also able to touch base with some of our new friends we’d be leaving behind.
We met up with some of the students from the first year for dinner at a local izakaya and karaoke. They presented us with several gifts, including a rubber samurai wig for me. One of the students worked at the izakaya and organized several vegetarian options for us.
At karaoke, we sang mostly American pop songs, but at the end of the night, they sang a Japanese song called Sangatsu Kokonoka (March 9 in English, video below) and each of them took a turn singing a verse. It was sweet and touching.
The night before we left, our former neighbor Tomoko and her two girls showed up at our door with some going away gifts and an awesome drawing of us by her four-year-old. She and her family included us in hanami (cherry blossom picnic) and Kawagoe Festival last year and we’ll miss their kindness and generosity.
Click any photo in the gallery to see a larger version and start a slideshow view
At the izakaya with last year’s Section 5 crew.
The haul of gifts from the Section 5 kids.
Tomoko and her daughters at our apartment the night before we left.
Reunited in the PDX parking garage!
The next day, we said goodbye to Mrs. Nakano. When we moved into our apartment, she was one of the first to greet us, offering some furniture for our new home. Over the last two years, she’s kept an eye out for us, offering vegetables from her garden and stopping to talk with us whenever we’d pass by. She made our transition a lot easier simply by accepting us.
That afternoon, we finished checking out of our apartment. Two of the students from karaoke night drove over to take us to the bus station. We were loading our luggage into the car when another neighbor, Serika, and her son came around the corner. He had a look of shock on his face when he saw our bags going into the car. I’d left a note in their mailbox, but quickly jogged over to say goodbye in person.
The boy is learning a little bit of English at school, so he always says “Hello” instead of “Konnichiwa” when he sees us. Last summer, they invited us to do fireworks with them out in front of the house. We’ll miss their smiling faces.
When you introduce yourself to someone in Japanese, you say douzo yoroshiku onegai shimasu, which literally means please be kind to me. We couldn’t have asked for kinder friends and I hope we’ll have the opportunity to cross paths again in the future.
American Again
After a nine-hour red-eye flight from Tokyo to Los Angeles, a five-hour layover with increased security thanks to the events in Brussels and another flight from LA to Portland, it was good to be back on solid ground. Our friends surprised us in the terminal with their three girls (who grew so much over the last two years!) and they brought our car, which they’d taken great care of while we were away.
Driving for the first time in two years was strange, especially at night and in the rain after just a few fitful hours of airplane sleep. Our first stop was for Mexican food—it’d been a LONG time!—then onto my brother’s house, where my mom surprised us as well. We didn’t last too long before the bed called our names, but it was great to see everyone.
What’s Next?
As we figure out our next steps, we’ll continue posting here at Cascadian Abroad. We still have lots of travel stories to tell and certainly won’t stop traveling now! While we get settled, I hope you’ll check out some of the older posts and say hello in the comments section below!
There’s a point on a long journey where travel fatigue subsides and changing cities, beds and cuisine becomes the norm. By day 43 of our European adventure, it would have been easy to just find another city, but unfortunately a pair of return tickets to Tokyo were dated for the following day.
We dotted our map with the last things we wanted to see and set out toward Testaccio again. However, we only made it a block before diverting back to Biscottificio Innocenti for another bag of cookies!
With cookies in hand (and mouth), we crossed the Tiber River and headed for the Pyramid of Cestius. After toppling Cleopatra’s Egyptian empire in 30 BC, Romans went crazy for all things Egyptian. The pyramid was built somewhere between between 18-12 BC as a tomb for politician Gaius Cestius. The walls, steeper than those found in Egyptian pyramids, are oft-cited as the source of the disproportioned depictions of pyramids in European art.
Nearby, the shopping-mall-sized Monte Testaccio appears to be nothing more than a tree-covered mound, but its real secret lies underneath. Located near the Tiber River, it was used as a state-run dumping ground for ceramic olive oil jugs during the Roman Empire. Archeologists have dated pieces back to 140-250 AD, but concede the site may have originated two centuries earlier.
From there, we took a bus across town to Vatican City. While we watched the Pope’s Wednesday address and toured the museum on our first visit, we weren’t able to make it inside St. Peter’s Basilica. To visit the world’s largest church, topped by the world’s largest dome, is to witness the opulence of the Holy Roman Empire at its peak.
Designed by Michelangelo and other leading Renaissance artists, the Basilica was built from 1506-1626 and is revered as much for its architecture as it is for its purpose. The regal marble and gold interior, as well as the 96-foot-tall bronze baldacchino canopying the alter were widely criticized at the time for being too over-the-top.
Large and imposing statues of former popes line the inner and outer nave. Just inside the doors, crowds gathered around the basilica’s most famous piece, Michelangelo’s Pietà. The sculpture of Jesus on his mother’s lap after the crucifixion is notable as the only piece the artist ever signed after it was claimed to be the work of another sculptor. Michelangelo’s name can be seen on the sash laying over Mary’s chest.
Heavy rain pummeled the area while we were inside, but finally started to let up as we found a local pizza place for lunch, followed by some unique gelato at Gelateria dei Gracchi. We continued east toward Piazza del Popolo, gateway to the famed gardens of Villa Borghese.
The 200-year-old Piazza del Popolo is still one of Rome’s most popular public squares. Located just inside the old city walls of the Roman Empire, it’s anchored by a piece of Egyptian history. An obelisk of Ramesses II was brought from the ancient Egyptian city of Heliopolis in 10 BC and installed in Circus Maximus, the former chariot racing stadium in the city center. It was moved to its current location as part of Rome’s 16th century urban expansion.
Behind the piazza, a zig-zagging road leads to the top of the Pincian Hill, home to several beautiful gardens, including the Villa Borghese. The sweeping views of the city from the top are absolutely magnificent. The large trees provided great cover for the passing rain showers, which in turn provided amazing light in contrast with the purple skies.
We wanted to cap off our trip with a nice dinner out. At the recommendation of our B&B host, we chose La Botticella in one of Trastevere’s back streets. The small hostaria is run by two sisters and has a homey feel about it.
Another couple entered shortly after us. In typical European fashion—despite the many empty tables—they were seated right next to us. They turned out to be visiting from Montana (not quite Cascadian, but close enough!) and as the wine flowed, we had a great time chatting with them.
However, the food quickly distracted us from the great company. It was one of those meals that should really be eaten in private due to the constant moans of satisfaction. We started with the traditional Roman fried artichoke. The ricotta and porcini ravioli special was delicious, but the spaghetti all’aglio, olio e peperoncino (garlic, olive oil and spicy peppers) had us ready to pack the chef away in our carry-on. We finished the meal with a heavenly strawberry tiramisu.
As we paid our bill, both sisters came to to say farewell. One carried a plastic bag with a bottle of the house red wine in it and handed it to Viktoria as a gift for International Women’s Day. Someday we’ll return to Rome and our first stop will be La Botticella!
Biscotti and amaretti cookies from Trastevere’s Biscottificio Innocenti.The 2000-year-old Pyramid of Cestius was built after Rome’s conquest of Egypt.Looking down the nave of St. Peter’s Basilica toward the dome.Inside St. Peter’s Basilica, Michelangelo’s Pietà shows the body of Jesus laid across his mother’s lap following the crucifixion.A flower truck parked near Via dei Gracchi on Rome’s north side.Looking over the shoulder of the goddess of Rome at Piazza del Popolo.Famous Italians are memorialized in 228 busts that fill the Pincian Hill Gardens near Villa Borgehese. The light after a hard, fast rain was beautiful!Fontana Oscura (Dark Fountain) in Villa Borghese during a rain shower.
More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe
It was around 5 a.m. when the constant trilling of the doorbell told me I was doomed to never sleep again. An early arriver to the B&B with no apparent concept of time or decorum kickstarted day 42 a couple hours earlier than expected. But when life gives you lemons at the crack of dawn in Rome, toss them aside and grab a double shot of espresso!
The early wake-up call gave us a head start on the rest of the tourists. Following a walking tour of Centro Storico’s public squares—or piazzas—we started at the Campo de’ Fiori market.
Italian for “Field of Flowers,” Rome’s oldest market has run daily since 1869. Thanks to its name, it’s commonly thought to be a flower market, but originally offered just fresh fish and produce. Today, locals come for groceries, gourmet cheese and even some fresh flowers (pictured above) while tourists are tempted by the carry-on-sized oils, vinegars, salts and more.
At the popular Piazza Navona, we hung a right into the less-touristy Piazza Sant’Eustachio, home to an 8th-century church of the same name. We quickly passed through Piazza della Rotonda, where the morning crowds began to gather at the Pantheon, and continued into the church courtyard of Piazza di Sant’Ignazio.
We joined the locals for a second round of coffee in Piazza di Pietra, named for the imposing ruins of the Temple of Hadrian, before finishing our walk at Piazza Colonna. A popular public square predating the Middle Ages, the Column of Marcus Aurelius dating to 193 A.D. is the main attraction.
We returned to Trastevere for lunch at Forno La Renella. The popular bakery draws hefty crowds for pizza at lunchtime, but is most famous for its breads. The shop’s oven has been pumping out classic Italian breads since 1870, cooked to perfection by a fire fueled by hazelnut shells. The nutty smell fills the streets and reportedly infiltrates the bread as well, but after a couple giant slices of pizza, it was impossible to confirm this personally.
We walked off our lunch a little bit, then set out on a mission to find another bakery we’d read about after leaving Rome the first time around. Biscottificio Innocenti is tucked away from Trastevere’s town center on a side street in a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it storefront. Even more popular with locals than tourists, Innocenti pumps out piles of Rome’s best cookies on a 60-year-old conveyor belt oven that fills the center of the small shop.
Opened in 1920, the third-generation owner was delightfully cheerful and patient as we perused the two dozen options in the window display. She offered suggestions as she filled the bag with tasty treats. The shop’s most popular cookie is a hazelnut-flavored mound of goodness called brutti ma buoni, literally “ugly but good.”
While we sat on the single bench and sampled our bounty, the owner dropped a couple hot-off-the-belt almond cookies in our bag. Others came and went, clearly regulars who knew both the owner and the cookie selection well. Cookies = Love.
In the evening, we geared up for the crowds and headed back to Centro Storico to visit Trevi Fountain. We’d visited once before during the day, but the view at night is equally stunning. The floodlit facade and water illuminated from beneath make the fountain glow. We sat for awhile, appreciating the beauty while ignoring the selfie stick users and vendors. Finally, we tossed our coins in the fountain, thrown with the right hand over the left shoulder, to ensure a return to Rome in the future.
The statue of Giordano Bruno looks over the market in Campo de’ Fiori.A busy side street leading to Piazza della Rotonda, home of Rome’s famous Pantheon.The PantheonThe charming Piazza di Sant’Ignazio is the community center for Sant’Ignazio Church.A baker at Biscottificio Artigiano Innocenti takes a sheet of cookies out of the conveyor belt oven.The popular Trevi Fountain at night.
More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe
