Robert Haddan - Cascadian Abroad

Day 41: Rome Redux

March 16, 2016 by Robert Haddan

Looking back toward Testaccio from the Ponte Testaccio bridge.

There was a sense of relief when the overnight train from Vienna pulled into Rome’s Termini Station. For the first time on the trip, we knew exactly where to go. The same bus going to the same Trastevere bed and breakfast where the same host—the wonderful Danilo at BB Danilo—would be waiting for us. No orientation necessary meant we could just start enjoying the city.

We really loved Rome the first time around and wondered if it was just the thrill of a new city or the city itself. It didn’t take long to figure out it was the latter. We enjoyed a quick espresso with Danilo, then set out on the town.

Having checked out most of the major sights last time, we could focus on exploring some different parts of Rome this time, starting with the Porta Portese Flea Market along the Tiber River in Trastevere. Open every Sunday, the nearly mile-long market starts at the Ponte Sublicio bridge and runs down Via Portuense before spilling into the side streets at the Ponte Testaccio bridge.

The somewhat-chaotic market is great if you’re looking for cheap bags, clothing or knick knacks and the aggressive vendors are open to haggling. Chances are the products aren’t exactly what they claim (“Of course it’s made in Italy!”), but even if you don’t buy anything, it’s worth a trip just for the experience.

At the end of the market, we crossed the Ponte Testaccio bridge where several cars were parked in front of a dilapidating complex. We figured they were coming across the bridge for the flea market, but instead they were walking into the complex. Seemed prudent to see where they were going!

The rundown complex was a former location for the Peroni Brewery and a slaughterhouse built in the late 1800s. Vacant for two decades, the MACRO, Rome’s Museum of Contemporary Art, took over the grounds in 2000, sharing the space with the Sapienza University of Rome School of Architecture.

We followed the others through the grounds into a large courtyard on the other side where the Città dell’Altra Economia farmers market was in full swing. We’d found our people as vendors sold organic products, arts, crafts and food. Local artists sold their works from the trunks of their cars at the Car Boot Market. Café Boario was just starting to populate their mostly-vegetarian buffet, taking care of our lunch for the day.

After a little rest to recuperate from the lack of sleep on the train, we headed back into Trastevere’s old town. Trastevere is unique compared to Rome’s sightseeing center. While there are still tourists, there’s also a lot of locals, including a younger crowd of ex-pats thanks to the two American universities located in the neighborhood.

We had an early dinner followed by gelato at the popular Checco er Carettiere restaurant. The crowds at the cafes started to pick up as Roman dinnertime started around 8 p.m. We wandered the cobblestone streets, taking in the ambience, until the rain forced us to call it night.

The Porta Portese Flea Market in Trastevere.

Entering the mysterious Peroni Brewery/slaughterhouse complex... — Entering the mysterious Peroni Brewery/slaughterhouse complex…

... and the Citta dell’Altra Economia farmers market that emerged on the other side! — … and the Citta dell’Altra Economia farmers market that emerged on the other side!

The charming streets of Trastevere at night.

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Day 40: Walking in Wieden

March 15, 2016 by Robert Haddan

View of Vienna from the Belvedere Palace complex.

On our last day in Vienna, we followed a walking tour through Wieden, the city’s fourth district. A little less touristy, the area shows the side of Vienna that sprouted up after 1900 vs. the older historic city center.

After filling up on apple pancakes at Heindl’s Schmarren and Palatschinkenkuchl, a classic Viennese diner, we walked through Stadtpark. The 28-acre park opened in 1862, becoming Vienna’s first public park. A few locals spent a lazy Saturday morning sitting around the pond reading newspapers and feeding the pigeons. We did a loop, then headed north toward the Danube River.

The Kunst Haus features some of the graphic works of 20th-century artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser. But the outside with its funky curves, patterns and colors are really where Hundertwasser shines. Often compared to Spanish architect Antoni Gaudí (whose works we saw in Barcelona), his masterpiece is located just down the street.

Hundertwasserhaus was built using designs suggested by the artist and contains 53 apartments as well as four office spaces. The floors are undulating, providing what Hudertwasser called a “divine melody to the feet.” The roofs are covered in soil and grass. Some of the homes have trees growing inside with limbs winding out of the windows.

We ate lunch in Arenbergpark under the shadow of a flak tower. The concrete anti-aircraft towers were built by the Third Reich during Germany’s World War II occupation of Vienna. Russian forces attempted to demolish the towers following the war, but the potential damage to nearby residences forced them to abandon the plan. Today they’re considered historic monuments. Kids played soccer on a small field nearby, the towers absorbed into the background of the park.

We grabbed a quick dessert at Cafe Neunteufl, a very local konditorei, then continued into Schwarzenbergplatz. The public square has a large monument celebrating the 17,000 Soviet soldiers who were killed in the liberation of Vienna at the end of World War II. The monument is still divisive as the post-war occupation of the Soviets was difficult for many Viennese. Yet, as recently as 2011, the city has paid for major refurbishments to the memorial.

Just up the street from the memorial, we entered the gates of the Belvedere palace complex (pictured above). Built during the Habsburg dynasty around the same time as Schönbrunn Palace, the grounds feature a long courtyard with two impressive Baroque palaces—the Lower Belvedere and Upper Belvedere—at either end.

That evening, we boarded an overnight train bound for Rome. A young man and three Italian high school girls joined us in our six-bunk compartment. The bumpy ride made for a long night, but while unable to sleep, I watched the Austrian countryside roll by. A floodlit castle sat majestically upon a hill bidding a fond farewell to our time in Vienna.

A man relaxes in Stadtpark with the morning newspaper. It was refreshing to see people still reading actual newspapers all over Vienna.

The funky facade of Kunst Haus, a museum dedicated to the works of Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser.

Hundertwasserhaus, a crooked, nature-filled apartment complex based on the eccentric architectural ideas of Friedensreich Hundertwasser.

The flak towers in Arenbergpark were built by the Nazis as anti-aircraft defense during the German occupation of Austria during World War II.

Looking south toward the Upper Belvedere Palace.

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Day 39: Vienna on a Dime

March 13, 2016 by Robert Haddan

Vienna's St. Stephen's Cathedral is featured on the Austrian version of the 10 euro cent coin.

Vienna doesn’t have a “must see” landmark like Paris’s Eiffel Tower or Rome’s Colosseum, but finding great sights in the Austrian capital certainly isn’t a problem. On a clear and cool day 39, we had a full itinerary ahead of us.

We took the metro to the Hietzing district, home to the 18th century Schönbrunn Palace. While most of our fellow passengers headed left to the palace gates, we turned right into the neighborhood in search of Café Dommayer.

The historic cafe was full of locals on a Friday morning. The host, dressed in a tuxedo, showed us to an open table and patiently explained the mostly-German menu. As we enjoyed our cake, coffee and the International New York Times newspaper, he offered to take a photo of us. It was a great way to ease into the day.

We entered the grounds of Schönbrunn Palace through the western Hietzinger Gate. The park portion of the grounds was quiet as only a handful of people had ventured away from the palace. The trees were still bare from the winter, but a few tiny blooms indicated spring was just around the corner.

The next stop was the Naschmarkt, a nearly-mile-long public market established in the 16th century. Originally, the market offered bottled milk and in the late 1700s added local produce. Today’s market is largely aimed at tourists and features one of the best lunch deals in town. At several stands, you can get 20 falafels for just 2 euros, but watch out for the add-ons or you might be leaving with more hummus and olives than you could eat in a week.

In the afternoon, we returned to the historic city center for a walking tour of the Stephansplatz area. Stephansplatz itself is a popular public square named for nearby St. Stephen’s Cathedral. Lined with big-name shops, it’s also packed with tourists, but the side streets offer a quick escape from the crowds.

St. Stephen’s Cathedral was built in 1340 and is featured on the reverse of Austria’s version of the 10 euro cents coin. The facade is the standard Gothic style cathedrals found throughout Europe, but the real highlight is the roof, decorated in bright colors and designs using more than 230,000 glazed tiles. Walking down Singerstrasse, you can see the impressive double-headed eagle emblem of the Habsburg Empire.

The cathedral’s 23 bells can be heard throughout town. Local legend has it that Beethoven realized the totality of his progressive hearing impairment when he saw the birds scatter from the ringing of the bells but could not hear the ringing himself.

Over the course of a couple hours, we saw one of Mozart’s former residences, a wall illustrated with the story of a monster defeated by a baker’s mirror, and a whole lot of churches. The Ankeruhr clock was one of the highlights of the walk. Located in the Hoher Markt neighborhood, the 100-year-old Art Nouveau piece survived heavy bombing during WWII that destroyed the rest of the once-opulent neighborhood.

Our long day out ended at the Volksoper for a performance of the Italian opera La Traviata. Built in 1898 as a playhouse, it became a public opera house in 1903 and hosts around 300 performances annually. The performance was sung in Italian with German subtitles, but the beauty of the performance and the surroundings translated just fine.

Enjoying a typical Viennese morning at Café Dommayer.

The Gloriette at Schönbrunn Palace sits at the crown of the gardens. The original was destroyed in World War II, but rebuilt by 1947.

The stalls of the Naschmarkt. At nearly one-mile long, there's something for everyone! — The stalls of the Naschmarkt. At nearly one-mile long, there’s something for everyone!

St. Stephen's Cathedral — St. Stephen’s Cathedral in the middle of Vienna’s historic city center.

The double-eagle emblem on the roof of St. Stephen's Cathedral. The emblem is the coat of arms for the House of Lorraine, one of Europe's longest-ruling royal families. — The double-eagle emblem on the roof of St. Stephen’s Cathedral. The emblem is the coat of arms for the House of Lorraine, one of Europe’s longest-ruling royal families.

A display in the Schönlaterngasse shows the story of a baker who discovered a basilisk (king of the serpents) and destroyed it by making it look at itself in a mirror.

Inside the Jesuit Church. The outside is fairly unassuming, but inside is another story.

The Ankeruhr clock in the Hoher Markt area.

The Volksoper, a public opera house in Vienna, where we saw a production of the Italian opera La Traviata.

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Day 38: Vienna

March 12, 2016 by Robert Haddan

A statue of Mozart in the Hofburg Palace gardens.

Our last day in Prague started early—although not London early—as we caught a bus for Vienna. The four-hour bus ride to the Austrian capital was much less eventful than our last bus from Amsterdam to Prague as we had our own seats and Czech language versions of 70s AM radio hits played over the bus speakers.

Our apartment was just over the Danube River from Vienna’s historic city center. Established by the Celts in 500 BC, the city has seen the Romans, Hungarians, Ottomans and Germans control the area over the last two millennia. As a result, Vienna is a rich mix of culture and architecture and the Historic Centre of Vienna was added to UNESCO’s World Heritage list in 2001.

Just looking for a place to have lunch, we found ourselves in the courtyard of one of the city’s oldest churches. Built in 790, the small St. Rupert’s Church in the old Roman quarter of Vindobona was once the center of Vienna. It still hosts services for an active membership every weekend.

One of the best ways to get a quick overview of Vienna is a tour of the Ringstrasse. The Ring Road replaced the medieval city walls in the late 19th century and runs in a circle around the inner part of the city center. Many of Vienna’s most popular tourist sights are found here, including the State Opera house, the University of Vienna and the Hofburg Palace complex.

The Ring Tram makes the loop in about 30 minutes, but we decided to walk the circumference to get a feel for the city. It also allowed us to pop into one of Vienna’s many cafes for some of its famous cake and coffee! Hanging out in a cafe isn’t just a cool thing to do, it’s actually a UNESCO-listed intangible cultural heritage.

In the 19th century, homes were often overcrowded, so coffee houses offered an opportunity for some personal space. The coffee—always served on a tray with a glass of water—comes in a dozen preparations, but typical Viennese style is called Melange. It’s similar to a cappuccino, but made with a milder blend of coffee. The cakes are beautiful, plentiful and delicious.

The Votive Church, a 19th century neo-Gothic cathedral, is currently undergoing refurbishments. The advertisements of the companies supporting the remodel are plasted across the front, including a giant banner of a woman holding a box of juice that covers much of the facade. Fortunately we’ve already seen some great Gothic churches.

Vienna’s City Hall, the Rathaus, was hosting a Special Olympics ice skating event in its courtyard. The skating rink was epic, beginning with a large corral in the front with a lane leading to a winding maze on the left. Those who found their way through the maze arrived in the main rink near the front of the building. We watched the kids, decked out in neon yellow safety vests, whiz by.

After a short rest, we took the metro to the Margareten district for dinner. Rupp’s touts itself as an Irish pub, but unofficially it’s one of Vienna’s most popular vegetarian restaurants. The menu is full of meat-free versions of Viennese classics. We went with the goulash and wiener schnitzel and were not disappointed.

Historic St. Rupert's Church in Vienna's Vindobona district. — Historic St. Rupert’s Church in Vienna’s Vindobona district.

The Votivkirche (Votive Church) is currently under renovation.

Partaking in Vienna's favorite pastime, hanging out in a cafe with some cake, coffee and a newspaper. — Partaking in Vienna’s favorite pastime, hanging out in a cafe with some cake, coffee and a newspaper.

Skating rink in front of the Rathaus, Vienna's City Hall. — Skating rink in front of the Rathaus, Vienna’s City Hall.

This statue of two men on the Rathaus grounds caught my eye as they appeared to be discussing what to do with the giant pile of snow in front of them.

The Austrian Parliament Building (das Parlament) and the glorious Pallas Athene Fountain statue.

Our apartment was in Leopoldstadt, Vienna's old Jewish neighborhood. The community was destroyed during World War II with many sent to concentration camps. The neighborhood began to revitalize in the 1990s and is once again a vibrant Jewish community. — Our apartment was in Leopoldstadt, Vienna’s old Jewish neighborhood. The community was destroyed during World War II with many sent to concentration camps. The neighborhood began to revitalize in the 1990s and is once again a vibrant Jewish community.

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Day 37: Prague Castle

March 11, 2016 by Robert Haddan

On our last day in Prague, we crossed the Vltava River once more to visit the picturesque Prague Castle. The iconic view is from the Charles Bridge with the red roofed buildings framing the Basilica of St. Vitus (pictured above), but the castle grounds reveal much more from up close.

Construction on the world’s largest ancient castle first began in 870. During the Nazi occupation of Prague, Adolf Hitler once spent a night in the castle “proudly surveying his new possession.” Later it would serve as the head of Czechoslovakia’s post-war government as well as the Czech Republic’s first seat of the Head of State.

Views of the Mala Strana district below are stunning and got even better as we moved west toward Strahov Monastery. The 870-year-old abbey has survived centuries of war and 40 years of Communist occupation to still function as home to the Premonstratensian Order that founded it in the 12th century.

In the center of the grounds, the Pivo Sv. Norbert brewery has restored the tradition of monastic brewing that dates back to the 13th century. Built on the site of the original brewery, Sv. Norbert has expanded beyond the typical Czech pils to make some quality craft beers. We enjoyed a couple of them with some apple strudel.

We walked back toward the Old Square via the streets of Mala Strana. The neighborhood is mostly set up to snag the tourists walking from the castle, but still holds its old world charm. It’s also where we had to dodge most of the falling piles of snow as they melted off the roofs! We escaped dry despite some close calls.

Back in the city, we embarked on a mini Franz Kafka tour. The author, most famous for his sometimes-bizarre, always provocative works, was born and raised in Prague. We skipped the detailed walking tour, which includes places like the insurance company where he worked after college, and caught two of the statues created in his honor.

The most impressive is the mechanical statue of Kafka’s head, created by David Cerny. Every few seconds, different layers of the statue twist in opposite directions, invoking the idea of one of Kafka’s most famous works, Metamorphosis.

View of Prague from near the castle's west gates. — View of Prague from near the castle’s west gates.

St. Vitas Cathedral. The tower was the original church, built in the 10th century, while the gothic addition was built in the 13th century. — St. Vitus Cathedral. The tower was the original church, built in the 10th century, while the gothic addition was built in the 13th century.

The gargoyles at St. Vitas were working overtime thanks to all the melting snow. — The gargoyles at St. Vitus were working overtime thanks to all the melting snow.

One of the two guards at the west gate of Prague Castle. Who would want to try and attack this place?!

View of Prague, including Prague Castle, from Strahov Monastery.

A statue of a river ogre on the Devil's Stream sits next to an old wooden water mill. — A statue of a river ogre on the Devil’s Stream sits next to an old wooden water mill.

A much clearer view of Prague Castle from the Charles Bridge than our first day inspired by a screenshot my brother sent us from the television show Grimm.

Prague's official Franz Kafka monument shows the author sitting on the shoulders of a headless man, inspired by his short story Description of a Struggle. — Prague’s official Franz Kafka monument shows the author sitting on the shoulders of a headless man, inspired by his short story Description of a Struggle.

The rotating Kafka Head statue in various states of rotation. Eventually it became unrecognizable as the different layers spun away from one another.

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Day 36: Prague Snow Day!

March 8, 2016 by Robert Haddan

The antenna of the Žižkov Television Tower pokes up over a grove of trees in Vinohrady.

I peeked out our window on the morning of day 36 to see a light dusting of snow on top of the car parked outside. The ground in the courtyard seemed clear, so we bundled up and set out for a day of sightseeing. We opened the front door to quite a surprise…

Several inches of snow had fallen overnight, covering Prague in a beautiful blanket of white. The sidewalks and streets had mostly turned to slush, but everything else had become props in a winter wonderland.

We took a shortcut through the National Museum park where the snow stacked tall on the narrow tree branches before stopping for a morning coffee. In a moment of serendipity, the specialty at Cafedu was a marshmallow cappuccino, a grown-up version of the marshmallow hot chocolate mandatory on a snow day in the States. Perfect!

The cafe is at the beginning of the old Vinohrady neighborhood with its Art Noveau apartments. We climbed the steps into Riegrovy Sady, one of Prague’s many sprawling parks. In the summertime, the large beer garden in the center of the park would draw visitors in droves. On this snowy day, it was mostly full of kids who’d brought their sleds out to make the speedy runs down the steep slopes, only to make the slow climb back to the top to repeat the thrill once more.

Just outside the park’s northeast exit, a small pub simply named The Tavern offered the famous Czech pilsners alongside a wildly creative American-style burger menu. We ordered The two veggie burgers on the menu, split a beer and enjoyed the warmth.

After lunch, we walked through Vinohrady. Named for the wine vineyards that covered the hills from the 14th-19th centuries, the neighborhood experienced an Art Nouveau revolution in the early 1900s, creating the unique residential area that still exists today. Its bright, multicolored buildings were made more vibrant by the white curtain that surrounded them. Only a few people bothered to wander the streets, none of them appeared to be our fellow tourists… a sign we’d gotten off the beaten path.

In the center of the neighborhood, the Žižkov Television Tower sprouts up like an unsightly weed. Built in the late 1980s, the architecture is somewhere between Soviet and sci-fi. Locals, dismayed by the way it soared above Prague’s medieval skyline, used more colorful names for it. At the end of the Cold War, it was believed to have been used to block Western broadcast signals, including the Radio Free Europe anti-Communist radio network.

We ended our walk in Prague’s Peace Square on Americka Street. A branch of the popular Prague Beer Museum (not an actual museum, just an awesome pub with a huge tap selection) gave us a taste of the Czech Republic’s craft brewing movement via their custom sampler tray. From fruit lagers to complex IPAs, it’s definitely worth Czeching out!

Having warmed up like the locals do, we set our sights on the top of Vitkov Hill, a park promising the city’s best views. The steep stairs and long, winding ramps to the top are worth it—probably more so on a clear summer day—as you can see over much of the Bohemian Basin to Prague Castle in the west and the red rooftops of Žižkov and Vinohrady to the south.

Back at the bottom, we crossed the river into the up-and-coming Karlín neighborhood to visit the small, but highly recommended, Simply Good bakery. We took a few classic Czech pastries to go, most of which made it all the way back to the apartment.

The dome of the Prague National Museum from snow-covered Čelakovského Sady.

Footprints in the snow at Čelakovského Sady.

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New friends enjoying the snow in Riegrovy Sady.

A young boy puts the finishing touches on a snowman in Riegrovy Sady.

Kids sliding down the slopes of Riegrovy Sady.

The Žižkov Television Tower at right, toned down by the Sacred Heart Church in Vinohrady.

A technicolor neighborhood in Vinohrady.

Merlin, a black lager, at the Prague Beer Museum. Na zdravi! To your health!

Looking out over Žižkov and Vinohrady from the top of Vitkov Hill.

Looking north into the Karlín district from Vitkov Hill.

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Day 35: Prague

March 6, 2016 by Robert Haddan

Prague Castle as seen from the Charles Bridge.

The jarring beep of our travel alarm started day 35 not long after day 34 ended. It was 3:30 a.m. in London and our bus to the airport was leaving soon. A few hours later, it was wheels up for Prague.

While the weather in London was cold, there was a chill in the air when we arrived in Prague that had a different feel. A light drizzle turned into a steady shower as we set out on the capital of Bohemia.

After a filling and beautiful Czech-style lunch at Plevel, we walked into the Old Town quarter. The small Havelské Tržiště market, established in 1232, called out to us with its charming stalls and rain-deflecting awnings. Vendors sold plenty of the usual tchotchkes, but a few had beautiful paintings of various city scenes made by local artists. If not for the weather, we would have gladly packed one or two away as a souvenir.

Targeted at Prague’s growing tourist market, the Old Town Square is the only part of the quarter that is still mostly unchanged from its medieval roots. The square’s main attraction is the orloj, an astronomical clock installed on the Old Town Hall in 1410. Every hour, visitors crowd in front to watch a parade of carved Apostle figures pass through two windows above the clock. The clock face shows the time, the current month and the position of the sun and moon.

Across the square, the Church of Our Lady before Tyn has been Prague’s primary house of worship since the 1400s. Much of Old Town Square was heavily damaged during World War II, in particular when the local people revolted against the occupying German forces two days before Germany surrendered to the Allies.

We crossed the Vltava River via the pedestrian-only Charles Bridge, built during the late-14th/early15th century. The bridge offers some of the most popular views of Prague Castle and the old Mala Strana neighborhood to the west. Replicas of 30 baroque-style statues carved in the 17th and 18th century line either side of the bridge. The originals can be seen in the National Museum.

As we headed toward our apartment, the rain began to mix with snow. It wouldn’t be the last we’d see of it…

Havelske Trziste, an 800-year-old craft market in Prague's Old Town quarter. — Havelske Trziste, an 800-year-old craft market in Prague’s Old Town quarter.

The Old Town Hall peeks through a narrow alley in Old Town.

Old Town Square. The Old Town Hall is at left, the Church of St. Nicholas is at the right.

The astrological clock and the Church of Our Lady before Tyn in Prague's Old Town Square. — The astrological clock and the Church of Our Lady before Tyn in Prague’s Old Town Square.

Crossing the Vltava River via the Charles Bridge.

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Day 34: London Time Machine

March 5, 2016 by Robert Haddan

St. Paul's Cathedral fills the skyline on Fleet Street.

We started our last day in London before the city itself had really woken up. Arriving at Camden High Street before 9 a.m., the alternative neighborhood had just started to stir on the hazy Sunday morning. The vendors at the Camden Market and neighboring shops were slowly setting up their booths for the rush of tourists that would be arriving shortly.

The hour of peace was refreshing after the Saturday crowds on South Bank. We wandered into Camden Locks Market where local craft vendors and food stalls were getting ready for the day. A small local coffee shop was the only thing open, so we stopped in for coffee and listened as the barista relayed his house-moving story multiple times to his regular customers.

We escaped just as the people started to pour in and boarded a bus toward Hyde Park. London is filled with open-roof double decker tour buses that let you hop on and off all day for €40-50. But for just a couple quid*, you can ride the city buses which will take you on a similar route. From the front seat of the second deck, it’s just as good an experience.

We exited at Paddington Station, mostly to snap a photo of the tube sign. A kind station employee let Viktoria past the gate to get the shot, which was a blessing in disguise as the architecture of the station has an old-London charm. Paddington was the first underground station, built in 1863. The brick archways on the platform beckon another era, even as the modern trains speed through.

A short walk from the station we found the northeast entrance to Kensington Gardens. The former hunting grounds of Henry VIII are now a large public park. Two man-made ponds—the Serpentine and The Long Water—separate it from the popular Hyde Park. We sat where the two ponds connect and watched as locals and tourists hustled by.

The south exit led through the sports fields, filled with weekend soccer games, horse riding and even quidditch practice! The once-fictional game featured in the Harry Potter books is now an internationally-recognized sport with a commissioner, rule book and official tournaments.

We cut through the quiet residential Rutledge Gate neighborhood with its prim and proper homes on our way to Knightsbridge, home of the world-famous Harrod’s department store. But shopping was low on the agenda and we set out for a place to eat our picnic lunch instead.

The area has several small neighborhoods and each neighborhood has beautiful gardens and parks. Unfortunately, every single one of them was locked, access restricted to residents only. After the fourth locked garden, we found ourselves back at Hyde Park and a cozy park bench facing the sun.

After lunch, we took the double-decker to Fleet Steet, one of London’s oldest thoroughfares dating back to the third century. It was right up our alley as it has both a long history as a home to the newspaper industry (London’s first daily started on Fleet Street in 1702) and as the site of some of London’s longest-running pubs.

The pubs in London have some really wonderful names… Olde Cock Tavern, Monkey Puzzle, The Walrus and the Carpenter. We chose Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese—established in 1538 and rebuilt in 1667 after the Great Fire in 1666—for a couple pints. The ground floor has no windows, giving the pub a gloomy feel. It continues underground into what used to be the stone cellars of a 13th century monastery. Dickens and Twain were among the pubs most famous regulars.

Nearby, St. Paul’s Cathedral offers an opportunity to repent for any sins that may have occurred in the pubs. Another victim of the Great Fire, the current church was built between 1675-1720. As we visited on a Sunday, a service was in session. Visitors are invited to sit quietly in the back of the massive nave. The voices of the choir echoed with deep and full resonance under the domed cathedral.

After a brief rest, we made one last trip into the city for a little theater. Austentacious is a comedy improv wherein the audience submits suggestions for the title of a fictional novel on slips of paper before the show. The cast draws a few at random, making up stories about failed Jane Austen novels with the titles, before selecting the evening’s subject. The entire show is improvised in the style of Austen.

We suggested “Proud and Prejudiced: The Donald Trump Story.” While ours wasn’t selected, we weren’t the only ones who thought the current presidential candidate might make a good topic. The winning slip was titled “Why America Needs Donald Trump.” Hilarity ensued.

*Earlier in the day, we began to notice that bus fare hadn’t been deducted from our transit cards. After some research, we figured we’d blown through our balance and would be charged when we turned our cards in, but we actually received a refund! I don’t know why our bus fare was free all day, but it made getting around town both awesome and exceptionally affordable! Ideas? Leave a comment below!

Camden High Street offers a tourist-friendly experience of London's alternative scene. — Camden High Street offers a tourist-friendly experience of London’s alternative scene.

Escape the souvenir stands and visit the Camden Locks Market, featuring food and crafts from local vendors.

The Peter Pan statue in Kensington Gardens.

The sports fields at Kensington Garden are surrounded by a dirt trail for horse riders. I assume the horses came into the city on the tube... — The sports fields at Kensington Garden are surrounded by a dirt trail for horse riders. I assume the horses came into the city on the tube…

A quidditch team practices in Kensington Gardens. The once-fictional sport, a creation of Harry Potter author J.K. Rowling, now has teams around the world playing competitive tournaments.

The famous Harrod's department store in London's Knightsbridge neighborhood. — The famous Harrod’s department store in London’s Knightsbridge neighborhood.

Having a pint at Ye Old Cheshire Cheese, one of London's oldest pubs dating back to 1667. — Having a pint at Ye Old Cheshire Cheese, one of London’s oldest pubs dating back to 1667.

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Day 33: In a London Minute

March 4, 2016 by Robert Haddan

The Household Troops band and New Guard relief corps march down Marlborough Street toward Buckingham Palace.

London was a city that really surprised us. It wasn’t on our original agenda, but thanks to all of its airports, it became the piece that allowed us to work in Porto. But with just two full days to explore, we had to buckle down to fit in a representative sampling of Europe’s largest city.

We woke up early and hopped on the red double-decker bus toward Soho to have a proper English breakfast. The Breakfast Club is one of those greasy-spoon places that always have the best breakfast in town. By 9 a.m., the queue was already a dozen people deep, but it was worth the wait. Just a few minutes after we were seated, a hot plate of beans, toast, potatoes, poached eggs and a vegetarian sausage was delivered to our table.

With the freshly-laid brick of a meal firmly lodged inside, we began the long walk through the theater district toward Picaddilly Circus. We came upon a small market at tiny St. James Church. The only permanent craft market in the city, Picaddilly Market run from Tuesday-Saturday and the rent paid by vendors helps with the maintenance of the 330-year-old church.

We veered toward Buckingham Palace, entering via Marlborough Street where a small crowd was gathered. We rarely find ourselves happening upon something at just the right time, but this was our lucky day. Every other day, the palace’s Household Troops perform an elaborate changing of the guard ceremony (Guard Mounting) beginning at Friary Court in St. James Palace and the party was just about to begin.

Soldiers known as the New Guard assembled in the square, beginning with a good-sized marching band followed by the guards armed with bayoneted rifles. As the conductor tuned them up, we slid in behind a tour group to listen in on the explanation of what would happen. The group moved quickly to get ahead of the band and we stayed in their heels.

The New Guard, led by a cheerful tune from the band, marched down Marlborough Street while we waited with the tour group at the intersection with the Mall. As they turned the corner, the tour leader ordered her group to go and we followed along, marching alongside the band to Buckingham Palace. It was a bit of a surreal moment…

Once we reached the palace, the New Guard entered the gates where they would take over as the Queen’s Guard. A few minutes later, the sound of the band picked up again as the former Queen’s Guard regiment marched back toward Wellington Barracks and the end of their duty.

With a newly-found bounce in our step, we walked through St. James Park, arriving at Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey. Crossing the Thames, we entered the South Bank district and followed the Queen’s Walk along the river.

Just behind the Southbank Centre shopping mall, the excellent Southbank Centre Food Market was in full swing. Full of local food and sweets, we’d come for the spicy peppers requested by Cascadian Pugs who has supported our adventures in Japan with copious care packages over the past two years. The cookie and tea were just for us though.

We continued northeast along the river, passing the bridges, shops and cafes. A tourist-trap museum denoted the former location of London’s notorious medieval prison known as The Clink.

We finally arrived at Borough Market in the Southwark neighborhood. One of London’s largest and oldest food markets, it claims to have begun in 1014 and has a documented history dating to 1276. Packed tight with tourists, we waded through the crowds from one end to the other before circling back for lunch. The punny Pie Minister served up traditional pot pies, creamy mashed potatoes and smashed peas mixed with mint. Not much to look at, but it dispelled the myth of British food being bland.

Powered up for one final push, we took the tube to Notting Hill. The charming and funky neighborhood popularized by the movie of the same name has a small, colorful residential area followed by a very long shopping street. Portobello Road begins with typical souvenir shops, most of which prominently feature Hugh Grant and Julia Roberts on t-shirts. But the further you go, the more the tourists drop off, more placed by locals taking advantage of the various food tents set up on the road.

At the far end of the road, the Acklan Village Market appears like an alternate universe. Flush with vegetarian food carts, live music and craftier vendors than its neighboring market, it’s a Bohemian bubble all its own.

With a large part of our London list taken care of, we returned to Baker Street to investigate a little rest and relaxation. We’d have another big day ahead of us…

London's signature double-decker bus and hackney carriage (taxi) compete for space near Piccadilly Circus. — London’s signature double-decker bus and hackney carriage (taxi) compete for space near Piccadilly Circus.

The Buckingham Palace Household Troops assemble in Friary Court at St. James Palace in preparation for the changing of the guard ceremony.

Buckingham Palace and the memorial to Queen Victoria.

Westminster Palace's Victoria Tower from Parliament Square. — Westminster Palace’s Victoria Tower from Parliament Square.

Elizabeth Tower (Big Ben) from Parliament Square.

From left to right: Big Ben, Westminster Palace, Victoria Tower and Westminster Abbey.

The lively South Bank entertainment district.

417 years later, the Globe Theater is still home to Shakespeare's best works. The current version however is just 19 years old. — 417 years later, the Globe Theater is still home to Shakespeare’s best works. The current version however is just 19 years old.

The colorful houses on Portobello Road in the funky Notting Hill neighborhood.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 32: London Nights

March 3, 2016 by Robert Haddan

Big Ben, Westminster Palace and the London Eye.

We left lovely Porto in the rain, arriving in London during the late afternoon. By the time we arrived at our Airbnb near Baker Street—the home of Sherlock Holmes—the sun had set on day 32. But that wouldn’t stop us from doing a little sightseeing.

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We exited Westminster Station directly into the massive shadow of Elizabeth Tower, better known as Big Ben. Other than a few people wandering the neighborhood and the evening commuters dashing by, we more or less had the area to ourselves.

Around the corner, the Palace of Westminster, home to the UK’s infamous Parliament, lay quiet. Big Ben anchors the gothic-style building at one end, while Victoria Tower—once the world’s tallest non-religious building—proudly flies the Union Flag at the other.

Across the street, the famous Westminster Abbey was equally quiet as flood lights highlighted the rose window on the north entrance. The abbey was founded in the 10th century and the current structure was built from 1245 forward. The neo-gothic western facade was a late addition in the 18th century. Royal weddings have been held in the abbey since 1100; most recently the marriage of Prince William and Kate Middleton.

Back near the station, the only crowd we’d seen all night lined the Westminster Bridge to take photos of the London Eye. Marking the unofficial beginning of the South Bank entertainment district, Europe’s largest Ferris wheel cast a colorful light upon the River Thames.

We hopped back on the tube toward London Bridge. Although it’s the subject of a famous song, London Bridge itself isn’t much more than a concert slab spanning the Thames. Its neighbor, the Tower Bridge, is the real star.

The 120-year-old suspension bridge connects the South Bank to the Tower of London. A four-year restoration project was finished in time for the 2012 Summer Olympics, adding a blue and white color scheme and LED lights that make the bridge a must-see on a London evening.

The London Eye reflecting on the River Thames.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe