Robert Haddan 
Yokohama is one of my favorite Japanese cities. Its unique development from the influx of foreign traders—Chinese, Americans and British in particular—give the port city a different ambience from its giant neighbor of Tokyo.
We hosted family for a short visit last week and immediately put Yokohama on the itinerary. Despite being bone-chilling cold, the sun was shining and we had some great light at dusk, leading to some inspiring photos. Enjoy Yokohama in Pictures…
The northwestern Cambodian province of Siem Reap is a model of synergy. On one hand, it’s a resort town built for tourists. Pubs, palate-friendly restaurants and cheap souvenirs abound. On the other hand, it’s a living, breathing walk through history of a powerful kingdom. Yet, neither would likely exist today without the other.
As usual, I was surprised by how little I knew about our destination before arriving. During one of our days by the pool, I found a book that helped change that. Alive in the Killing Fields was written by a survivor of the Khmer Rouge era. Coincidentally, when he emigrated to America, he ended up in Oregon; first sponsored by a dentist in Salem and eventually graduating from high school in Oregon City.
The Kingdom of Cambodia has a long, sometimes tragic history. From 800-1400 A.D., Cambodia was the center of Southeast Asia. The Khmer Empire, heavily influenced by Indian and Hindu culture, literally built a large society, constructing hundreds of ornate temples dedicated to the various Hindu gods. King Jayavarman VII was the most active—Lonely Planet calls him the Donald Trump of temple building—with the construction of some of Cambodia’s most famous temples, including Ta Prohm and the ancient capital city of Angkor Thom.
In the 1400s, Cambodia was overrun by the Ayutthaya Kingdom from modern-day Thailand, beginning 600 years of foreign control over the Khmer people. Under the Ayutthaya, Cambodia’s hill tribes were hunted and enslaved. In the 1800s, France began its colonization of Southeast Asia, installing governments in Thailand, Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia under the umbrella of French Indochina.
French control lasted until 1953 when Cambodia re-established its independence under the young King Norodom Sihanouk. It was short-lived. In the 1960s, Cambodia allowed North Vietnam to use land to assist the Communist war effort in South Vietnam. The policy was unpopular among the people and eventually led to U.S. bombings on Cambodian soil.
A military coup in 1970 led to not only the ouster of Sihanouk, but also the rise of the Khmer Rouge and the darkest period in Cambodia’s history. For nearly two decades, the brutal Khmer Rouge, led by former military leader Pol Pot, forced Cambodians into slave labor under the guise of Communism. Starvation was rampant. The Khmer Rogue killed indiscriminately—men, women, children—often for no reason.
The worst of it occurred in 1979-80 when more than 300,000 Cambodians died of starvation. In all, an estimated 1.7 million Cambodians died under the reign of the Khmer Rouge, approximately 21 percent of the country’s population.
In 1978, the North Vietnamese liberated Cambodia, installing a government that combined Hanoi’s Communist government with less-extreme components of the Khmer Rogue leadership. Yet it wasn’t until Pol Pot’s death in 1998 that the country truly began to heal.
Today, Cambodia is officially called a democracy, but is still dominated by the Cambodian People’s Party—the original Communist party that still maintains its Communist-style structure.
Western Europeans have a long history of “discovering” things that weren’t lost in the first place. When a French explorer “discovered” Angkor Wat in the 19th century, the site was functioning as a monastery for Buddhist monks. Japanese Buddhists had been making pilgrimages to Angkor since the 17th century—although they thought they were in India, not Cambodia.
Yet, it was foreign investment and restoration efforts that brought the temples back to life. While the structures were never truly left for dead, the jungle had done its best to reclaim the temples. Archeologists and restoration experts made the wise choice to leave the tree roots in place, both in keeping the structures from crumbling further but also retaining the unique aesthetic quality of the temples.
UNESCO’s involvement in the Angkor Archaeological Park has led to a large, multinational effort to not only restore the temples and other artifacts of the 400 km2 kingdom, but also to make the sites safe for archeologists and tourists to explore. During the Khmer Rouge’s reign of terror, landmines were buried in and around many of the ruins. In the 1990s, millions of square meters of Cambodian land were swept and cleared of landmines. But, even today, tourists are warned not to stray from marked paths. More than 40,000 Cambodians have suffered an amputation related to landmines; many of whom now work in and around the temples.
Chasing authenticity in travel can be a tricky thing. What is the “real” Siem Reap? Is it the stilted houses on the rice paddies in the countryside? Or is it the lively city center where the tourists outnumber the locals? The two million tourists that visit Siem Reap annually account for more than half of Cambodia’s total. Tourism jobs make up more than 50 percent of Siem Reap’s employment.
It’s easy enough to find more local experiences. Our hostel was about 10 minutes outside the city center, next to a large indoor/outdoor market that catered to the local community. I could count on one hand the other foreigners I passed while walking through the market. Unlike the city center where foreigners are walking dollar signs, nobody seemed to care I was there, otherwise occupied with the daily business of buying and selling.
Along the road to the temples, we saw several food stands meant for locals traveling the roads, things like krolan (sticky rice in a bamboo tube), fruits and vegetables. The roads to the temples were lined with vendors selling locally made products targeted at the tourists. We stopped at one such place, beating the tourist bus by a few minutes. We were allowed to see the home behind the stands and meet the family that lived and worked there. It’s those moments that are the reasons we travel.
Tickets are required for most of Angkor’s temples. You can purchase a one-day, three-day or seven-day pass at the Angkor ticket office. The three-day pass, which can be used on any three days in a seven-day period, was plenty for us to see all the major temples and a few of the smaller ones. As of January 2016, the three-day pass was $40 USD per person.
If you purchase your tickets after 5 p.m., you can enter the park that evening without using one of your ticket days. It’s a good way to see the sunset on the face of Angkor Wat or from the top of Phnom Bakheng or Pre Rup.
The sunrise at Angkor Wat is where you get “that photo.” You have to get there early (like 5 a.m. early) to get a clear shot of temple, so you might want to arrange a tuk tuk the night before and bring a headlamp or flashlight. It’s about a 10 minute walk from the road to the ponds where you’ll watch the sunrise, so plan accordingly.
Once inside the temple complex, head for the north pond (on the left nearest the restaurants) and try to get as close to the front as possible. Then you wait. The first photo opportunity comes as the rising sun lights up the morning sky behind the temple. Wait a little while longer and the sun itself will begin to appear behind the temple’s towers.
Angkor Wat doesn’t open to tourists for another hour, so take your time with the sunrise and then grab a bite to eat at one of the onsite restaurants. The big tour groups will go back to their hotels for breakfast, leaving the temple much less crowded in the morning than later in the day.
If I’m being honest, the sunsets in Siem Reap are a bit overrated. If you ask the tuk tuk drivers to take you, you’ll be dropped at Phnom Bakheng. You have to hike up to the top mountain with a few hundred of your closest friends. If you arrive early in the afternoon and are OK with camping out for a few hours, you can go to the top of the temple to see the sunset and catch a glimpse of Angkor Wat. Otherwise, you’ll be squeezing in to see the sunset over the jungle through some trees. After hiking back down, you’ll have the unenviable task of finding your tuk tuk driver in the dark among the hundreds of lookalike tuk tuks.
The sunset at Pre Rup was much nicer. It’s still setting over the jungle, but it’s a lot less crowded and can be coupled with a late afternoon tour of the temple ruins.
Head to TripAdvisor and search for “Apsara”—the common name for traditional Cambodian dance—and you’ll find a bunch of reviews for bad buffets offering a dance performance for $10-$25 USD. Skip it and head to the Temple Balcony on Pub Street. Every night at 7:30 p.m.-ish, they offer an entertaining and free dance show that lasts about an hour. All you have to do is order some snacks or drinks. As tempting as the cushioned seats by the street are, try to sit toward the stage if you want to actually watch the show.
The area around the Old Market and Pub Street is packed with both Khmer food and Western alternatives. The food is OK, but we found our favorite places around the edges of the city center.
My Little Cafe (map)
Large menu with lots of Khmer food at much lower prices than in the city center. Great vegetarian menu as well. Good way to try a few local specialties without breaking the bank.
Peace Cafe (map)
A vegetarian cafe offering Khmer food, a few Asian and Western options, a large juice menu and a small shop with locally-made products. The amok was my favorite of any we tried in Siem Reap—and we tried a lot! They also have cooking classes and yoga classes in their studio upstairs. Note: The current location is on River Road. One tuk tuk driver took us to the old location, which happens to be across the street from another vegetarian restaurant, Banlle.
Haven Training Restaurant (map)
A few minutes east of the city center across the river is Haven, a training restaurant for “vulnerable young adults” run by a Swiss couple who genuinely cares about both their employees and the quality of the food they put out. The menu is an eccentric mix of Khmer specialties, Western food and a few Swiss classics. While not exclusively vegetarian, the owner is vegan and the menu is clearly marked with veg options. The vegetarian amok was excellent and the pumpkin veggie burger was both unique and delicious.
Little Red Fox Espresso (map)
An Australian-style espresso cafe between the Provincial Hospital and Children’s Hospital. Best coffee in town, air conditioned and quiet. Small food menu as well.
Blue Pumpkin (map)
Housemade ice cream, sweets and more with a couple locations around town. The brownies are amazing!
Made in Cambodia Market (map)
If you want souvenirs, but are tired of the hustlers in the Old Market, check out the Made in Cambodia Market. Held four times a week in the courtyard of the Shinta Mani Resort, it feels more like a local farmers market (minus the produce). Artisans bring their products to sell and sample (watch out for the Sombai rice wine samples… she’s generous with the pours!), a few food stalls offer a quick bite and live music/dancing will provide some entertainment.
Swimming (Hotels around town)
Hostel doesn’t have a swimming pool? No sweat! Many of the hotels around town offer day-use of their pools for a reasonable fee. Somadevi Angkor Hotel Spa has a nice pool with a few lounge chairs and towels for $8 per person. Next door, the Prince D’Angkor Hotel provides access to the pool, fitness center, hot/cold tubs and sauna for $10 per person. Check the deck for open chairs before you pay!
Seeing Hands Massage 4 (map)
Seeing Hands Massage helps people from Cambodia’s blind community learn the art of shiatsu massage. The center aims to give people opportunities to earn an independent living both as masseuses and as small business owners. One hour for $7 USD and rarely a wait!
Cambodia’s preferred currency is the U.S. dollar, although it uses local currency for change. We usually withdrawal money from ATMs when we travel vs. carrying large sums and exchanging at the airport. However, the ATMs charge a $5 service fee per transaction, so plan accordingly.
On our first day in Siem Reap, we visited Phsar Chas (the Old Market), a local market established in the early 1900s that now caters exclusively to the tourists who flock to the city center. Another market, Phsar Leu, was located a few hundred feet from our hotel and very much NOT targeted at tourists. Seemed a great way to bookend our trip with a visit on our last day in country.
The locals-only market overflowed with fresh fruits and vegetables. Agriculture is an important part of Cambodia’s economy, making up nearly 90 percent of the country’s GDP.
The further back from the main road I went, the more real it became. Vendors butchered meat right in their stalls. The heads and legs of pigs dangled from the eaves. A woman went to work with a butcher knife, skillfully disassembling a large portion of meat. Live fish jumped from their shallow buckets seeking freedom to no avail.
The indoor portion of the market was much less harrowing. Electronics, home goods, clothing and more were packed into the narrow aisles. A large gold jewelry market filled the center of the market. Vendors passed the time between customers by napping, watching YouTube videos and playing games on their smartphones. It IS 2016 after all!
More Photo of the Day posts from our December 2015-January 2016 trip to Siem Reap, Cambodia
Day 6 in Siem Reap was enjoyed poolside, reading books, snacking and relaxing in the sun. None of the 10 photos taken today were particularly interesting, so here’s a couple that missed the late-night cut yesterday.
Khmer classical dance is a popular tourist attraction. Many of the hotels offer a show and buffet in an attempt to draw in tourists. The Temple Bar on Pub Street presents a free show every night at 7:45 p.m. on its second-floor Temple Balcony.
The dance is more commonly called “apsara,” named for the dancing female figures carved into the bas-reliefs in many of the Angkor temples. The dance group at Temple performed several different classical dances over the course of an hour.
More Photo of the Day posts from our December 2015-January 2016 trip to Siem Reap, Cambodia
On day 5, we returned to Ta Prohmーthe Tomb Raider templeーa second time, leaving our hostel early to try and beat the crowds. While it was still busy, we were able to find a few moments of silence and tourist-free photo opportunities with the great morning light.
More Photo of the Day posts from our December 2015-January 2016 trip to Siem Reap, Cambodia
Sunday is the day of rest, especially for these weary travelers. We spent much of day 4 alongside the pool at Somadevi Angkor Hotel and Spa. Just a few bucks will get you full access to the pool, lounge and swim-up bar.
More Photo of the Day posts from our December 2015-January 2016 trip to Siem Reap, Cambodia
Day 3 of our Siem Reap adventure took us to some of the less-restored gems of Angkor, including Ta Prohmーthe 800-year-old co-star of Angelina Jolie in the first Tomb Raider movie. Many of the buildings have been reclaimed by the jungle, the sprawling roots of Spung trees tearing apart the temple brick by brick.
More Photo of the Day posts from our December 2015-January 2016 trip to Siem Reap, Cambodia
We woke up at 4:15 a.m. on New Year’s morning to see the first sunrise of 2016 at Angkor Wat. Our guide set us up on the banks of the north lake to perfectly capture the sun as it crested behind the temple’s five towers. A large crowd of at least a few hundred turned out for the early morning photo session.
The world’s largest religious monument, Angkor Wat was built in the 12th century as a Hindu temple. Today, it’s designation as a UNESCO World Heritage property has lead to a multinational effort to restore the temple to its former glory. More than 2 million people now visit Angkor Wat every year.
More Photo of the Day posts from our December 2015-January 2016 trip to Siem Reap, Cambodia
The sunset on our first full day in Siem Reap, Cambodia from near Phnom Bakheng. The temple, built in the 9th century, only accommodates 300 people at a time at the top. We joined the rest of the late-comers snapping sunset shots through the trees.
More Photo of the Day posts from our December 2015-January 2016 trip to Siem Reap, Cambodia
Our first Christmas in Japan was all about observing the new traditions in the world around us. For our second Christmas here, we simply embraced it all in our own way.
Early December marks the beginning of illumination season. In the U.S., it’s common to decorate homes and even entire neighborhoods with sometimes elaborate lighting displays. In Japan, individual homes don’t really get into the act. Instead, shopping centers, parks, train stations and more light the winter skies with massive shows of moving lights and music. And while the Christmas displays in stores disappear the morning of December 25, the illumination shows stretch well into the new year.
This year, we visited Caretta Shiodome, widely considered to host the best illumination show in Tokyo. The theme for this year’s display, Canyon d’Azur, is reflected in the cold, blue lights that rise above the short path winding amongst them. Disney songs are the soundtrack for the light show, which plays every 20 minutes.
During one of the intermissions, a couple and their entire wedding party posed for photos in front of one of the lighted tree sculptures while Father Christmas officiated nearby.
A few days later, we kicked off party season at our next door neighbor’s place with several of the crew from TIU. It was a combination birthday/Christmas party, which made for some wacky decorations and outfits.
A couple days before Christmas, our monthly city newsletter arrived in the mail. The photo on the cover qualified as an instant classic, featuring Kawagoe’s sweet potato-shaped mascot Tokimo posing with Santa Claus at the City Hall. More importantly, it was photographic evidence that Santa was in Japan!
On Christmas Eve day, a selection of holiday-themed craft beers from around the world arrived at our doorstep. I had no idea our Kuroneko delivery driver worked for Santa! It was possibly the largest collection of hops in a single location in the entire city that day.
On the evening of Christmas Eve, we met up with some of last year’s students for dinner at the sushi place near our house. Three of them studied in America last year, so it was cool to see how their perspectives changed. I was also reminded of how much food college students can pack away in a single sitting. Those days have long since passed for me…
On Christmas morning, Santa slipped in a little gift for Viktoria in the form of Japanese two-toed socks called tabi. Unfortunately, there was no time to enjoy them as Christmas day in Japan is more commonly known as “Friday,” which also happened to be a work day this year.
That evening, we recreated the “traditional” Japanese Christmas dinner with a vegetarian spin on KFC’s fried chicken meal, featuring southern-fried tofu and buttermilk biscuits. After scouring the internet for other Christmas recipes, I also came up with potato salad shaped like a Christmas tree, trimmed with carrot stars and cucumber peel garland. And Christmas cakes. So. Many. Mini. Cakes.
Thanks to the global delays in shipping, goodies continued to show up at our door in the days following Christmas. Our old friends Frank, Justin Cheryl and Whitman came tucked into a box from my mom in the form of hot sauce, peanut butter cups, cookies and chocolate respectively. A card from my dad featuring Santa head over teakettle in the chimney contained a very generous gift card.
A bar of Apricot Wheat beer soap from my brother arrived the day after Christmas. I literally had the camera in hand, taking a picture of it for this post, when the doorbell rang. Santa’s Japan Post affiliate delivered two companion pieces made from Sierra Nevada and Samuel Adams beers. A note in an e-mail read: “Combining local beers so you feel at home, but soap so you both can lather and always smell like a Portlander.”
We wrapped up the Christmas season with a trip into central Tokyo’s Marunouchi district for the last night of illuminations at the restored Tokyo Station Marunouchi Building. In 2012, an impressive 4D projection-mapping display caused major traffic headaches due to the massive crowds, so subsequent displays have been more toned down.
Yet, large crowds still poured out of Tokyo Station. We were ushered like cattle from the station to the viewing area between cloth barriers held by event staff. We snapped some photos, then walked down Marunouchi’s Naka Dori shopping street through the remains of the event’s Christmas Market.
Christmas 2015 is now officially in the books and the New Year is right around the corner. Hope you all had a wonderful holiday season and best wishes for 2016!