I’m done with my first week of school! I’m teaching 8th, 9th and 10th grade. I can’t believe I have students who were born in the 2000s; where is the time going?
My schedule is keeping me on my toes. The workweek is Sunday through Thursday, which is hard to get used to. I keep saying “This is due on Friday… I mean Thursday,” and students laugh. Students are also correcting my pronunciation of names. Hana, Malak and Jana are popular girl’s names, and Mohamed, Omar and Youssef for the boys.
I thought I would do a very simple “Day in the Life” post. I will probably do a more detailed one once I get more into a routine.
6:00 a.m. Wake up, make breakfast and get ready for school.
6:30 a.m. The first week, I left home at this time to walk about 2 km to the bus stop. I love Cairo in the mornings. It’s cool, breezy and quiet. My new schedule, I will catch a bus at 6:50 a.m. in my neighborhood. The bus leaves around 7:00/7:10 a.m.
My classroom is very colorful! It will be more decorated soon. The first week I didn’t have a clock, which made me feel disorganized.
7:30ish a.m. Arrive at school. I go straight to my classroom, turn on the air conditioning and start the day.
7:55 a.m. School starts. We either have an assembly where students line up outside by homeroom or students come to homeroom right away. I have a 9th grade homeroom class.
I accidentally ordered five falafel sandwiches from the school cafeteria. All ordering is done in Arabic and hand gestures. I thought I was ordering five falafel pieces. Needless to say, it all got eaten.
8:15 a.m.–3:05 p.m. The school day. My schedule changes every day, but I usually teach three or four classes a day. Lunch is about 45 minutes long. I have lunch supervisory duty once a week. It is so hot midday that most students eat their lunch in the shade. Though the boys play soccer (“football”) and come to class drenched in sweat.
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Going home on the school bus.
No seatbelts required!
A local farmer in the Giza neighborhood near the school. Shot out the school bus.
3:15 p.m. Bus leaves for home. The bus ride home is an interesting time to peer out the window at the traffic and things going by.
A one-eyed cat to greet me at the door.
3:45/4 p.m. I’m home! Thankful to have a relatively short commute there and back.
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I had groceries delivered. In addition to some fruits and vegetables, I had fresh Baladi (sort of like pita) bread and frozen falafel for dinner. No, I’m not sick of falafel yet!
Hummus in a can, it’s what’s for dinner. It was surprisingly good for $1 canned hummus.
4:00 p.m. to…? I make dinner and pass out on the couch. The first week I was in bed by 7:00 or 8:00 p.m. I haven’t had a lot of papers to grade at home yet. That will probably change once we get into the swing of things.
When most people picture Oregon, they see green fir trees, maybe snow-capped mountains or the Pacific Ocean. But 45 percent of the state is classified as desert and it is here where some of the most unique terrain in the state can be found.
More than 200 miles east of Portland, the Painted Hills may be the most unique of all. Millions of years ago, the desert was covered by an ancient river that left a geological fairy tale behind in the rock and soil. Vibrant black, gray, red and gold soil layer the hills, colored by the prehistoric vegetation sediment from a time when the area was a hot and humid rainforest.
Located in the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, the site is also important to archeologists. A bounty of fossils, the remains of early horses, camels and rhinoceroses, can still be found in the area.
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The first view of the hills as you enter the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument.
The road to the Painted Hills
Painted Hills
The hills from the viewpoint.
The boardwalk on the Painted Cove Trail.
The top of the Painted Cove Trail has panoramic views of the hills and the Painted Hills Reservoir.
The end of the Painted Cove Trail has panoramic views of the hills and the Painted Hills Reservoir.
The boardwalk around the Painted Cove Trail offers close-up views of the various layers.
Thank you for all the comments on Facebookand here on Cascadian Abroad about my house hunt!
And the winner is… House #3!
Most of you liked House #3 the best and I guess you could sense my enthusiasm through my words. A few picked House #1 for its spacious kitchen. And no takers for House #2.
So yes, I chose House #3. It was easily my favorite place I saw during the house hunt. Interestingly enough, I was jet lagged and ready to stop for the day before I was convinced to see one more. I’m glad I powered through. Moving is hard. Starting a new job is hard. Doing both in a foreign country is exponentially harder.
I have been moved in now for a couple of days and I’m slowly learning its quirks and character. I really like the size, it’s not too big for one person and I can’t get lost.
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My first trip to the grocery store. I got some cupboard staples.
Peering down an alley with tourist shops.
Lunch at Crave with my land lady. I had tea with mint, lentil soup and roasted vegetable skewers.
Enjoying mango season while it lasts!
My first night, my landlady offered her driver to take me to the grocery store. I had already mapped out the walk to the store, but I gladly took her up on her offer. The driver helped me carry my bags and liters of water from the store to the car and from the car to my apartment. Thankfully, no stairs to climb!
My landlady is a cosmopolitan woman. She speaks many languages; her English is perfect. She grew up in a multicultural household. If I need anything, she has contacts throughout the city.
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Having iced hibiscus tea at my land lady’s house
A palm and greenery in my neighborhood.
Artwork depicting the Egyptian flag and the Nile River.
A mosque in the distance.
My neighborhood is very green and lush.
A foot bridge near the Metro station.
Catching an afternoon nap.
My neighborhood. The stray dog breed is called Baladi. My landlady has several dogs and cats she has adopted.
A shopping street near my house. Almost every place delivers.
On the weekend (Friday and Saturday here), we went driving through the neighborhoods of Maadi and she pointed out some shops and landmarks. There are many things to see and I’m slowly figuring out where I am. We went out to lunch, where we bumped into some of her family. I’ve heard Cairo is… “where everybody knows your name.”
After lunch, I went walking on the shopping street near my house. I got some school supplies at a stationery store and some bread at The Bakery Shop. There are many American storefronts I recognized: Cold Stone Creamery, The Body Shop, McDonald’s, Circle K, Auntie Anne’s Pretzels, Coffee Bean, Subway, Gold’s Gym, etc. In addition, there’s more coffee shops, grocery store, fruit stands, a wine/beer store, gelato, sushi, waffles, hamburgers, cupcakes, Egyptian food, etc.
Above: A peek of the pyramids in Giza from the international school.
I have a few photos and thoughts to share from this week. I flew in on Wednesday; redeye from PDX to JFK, nine-hour layover then a 10-hour flight to Cairo. At the airport, I met some Cascadians who will be teaching at my school! A teaching couple with two children from Seattle. I also met another teacher from Texas, a recent college grad from Chicago and a businessman from Virginia. On the flight, I talked to a band of brothers from NY who were vacationing in Cairo. Their mother was Egyptian and father was Syrian.
We were picked up in Cairo by a representative of the school. The drive into Cairo was fascinating. There are millions of things I want to take a picture of. Wednesday was a mixture of “what the hell did I get myself into?” and “I got this!” Thankfully our travels to India, Nepal, Vietnam and Cambodia were good preparation.
Walkway along the Nile.
People say that the drivers here are crazy, but I’ve yet to see anything shockingly bad. There are mostly cars, taxis and mini buses with a smattering of motorbikes and donkey carts. The honking is noisy.
Some “cool kids” in the streets of Cairo. Most women do not show their shoulders or arms.
The majority of people out and about are men. It’s a little different to see women so covered up—a mixture of head, body, and/or face. Some are in colorful headscarves (hijab). Some are in black robes with only the eyes showing. Some women don’t cover their head at all.
A mosque in Cairo
I’ve learned that Egypt is 90 percent Sunni Muslims and 10 percent Coptic Orthodox Christian. This is seen in the skyline; minarets with both crescent/half-moons and crosses, relatively.
Cairo
I’m jet lagged so I keep hearing call to prayers at 3:30 or 4 a.m. The first time I heard it, I was a little shocked. It is loud. And unfamiliar. But by day three, I am used to it.
View of the city
Cairo is shades of green and gray in the middle of the desert. The buildings outside of town are brick, concrete, brown and every shade of yellow sand. Rows of apartment buildings, many abandoned, with window AC units and satellites line the roads.
Fresh produce at a Cairo grocery store. The red fruit in the middle row is fresh dates.
All of the fruit is organic; no sprays or pesticides. Agriculture is an important business. Farmers bring it into the city by donkey cart. I saw fresh dates red in color. Fresh dates, who knew such a thing existed. Don’t mind me, I get excited about fresh fruit and produce that tastes like it’s supposed to.
The orientation at my school is really well organized and I feel supported by the teaching and admin staff. There are about 20 new teachers here from New Zealand, all over the UK and the U.S. Everyone is really nice, has taught abroad before and is open minded. No one is scared by the political or religious climate and I’m learning there really isn’t any reason to be. It’s business as usual after the Revolution.
More to come later about the apartment search and the felucca ride on the Nile River!
Pastries at one of the many sweet shops in CairoA small shop in CairoA felucca boat on the banks of the Nile RiverAn apartment complex in CairoDaily life in CairoTwo young boys in CairoThe Satellite Transmission Station in Maadi.One of the ubiquitous street snack stands
Today I am starting a new leg of a travel and teaching journey. This time, I will be without Robert—my husband, partner in crime and this blog’s master.
“Why am I moving to Cairo by myself?”
Long story short, we both received job offers we couldn’t refuse. Unfortunately, they were on different continents. I received mine first and we were all set to jet off when Robert’s opportunity came along. We did some agonizing and back and forth and landed on this decision.
I will be teaching high school English at an international school in Cairo, Egypt. Robert will be a technology manager for a company in Oregon. We are both really excited to pursue our new ventures and have a chance to “try out” two entirely different lifestyles. We’ll evaluate as we go and decide what works best in the long run… or try something else!
I am cautious, but not scared to move to the most populous Arab country as a white, Western woman. When we told others we were moving to Japan, we received a variety of warnings about the Yakuza (mob), sexual harassment on the train, train/traffic accidents, you name it, from people who had never been to Japan, but only seen things on the news or the internet. Thankfully, we were not scared off and our experience living in Japan was amazing! Japan was the safest I have ever felt anywhere. I knew that I was spoiled and that whenever we left to travel or return to the U.S., I would have to get my guard back up.
Similarly, many people have warned me about Cairo. And yes, there is probably more reason to worry than with Japan. I will have to be more aware of where I’m going and who is around me. I will have to think about my appearance and being modest (not a new concept for me—many Asian countries like Japan are quite modest in dress especially in religious sites and I had quite a learning experience about dress in India). From where I stand, these things are not deal breakers. I’m not scared of the Islamic religion or Muslim people. I have read all of the travel alerts and I have done my research. I have asked advice from my new co-workers and people who have visited or lived in Egypt. Instead of giving into fear, I decided to go and form my own opinion.
I realize that I have the privilege to make the decision to live anywhere I want. And I have the privilege as an American citizen to leave whenever I want. Those statements aren’t true for most of the rest of the world.
I forgot this was supposed to be a long story short! Stay tuned on the blog as I try to make sense of a whole new world (a favorite karaoke song), more information about my school and its students, my local wanderings and travels, photos of pyramids and felucca rides down the Nile, food and coffee reviews (!!!) and Robert’s visits and impressions.
Have you ever been to Egypt? Do you think I should be worried? Why or why not? Head to the comments sectionbelow to take part in the conversation!
Growing up in the Pacific Northwest, American colonial history is an afterthought. Our history is mostly natural or belonging to the region’s Native American tribes. But on the east coast, the birth of our country is on full display in every city and neighborhood. The backdrops of key moments in our nation’s history are now national parks, museums and monuments.
Situated on Baltimore’s Locust Point jutting into the Patapsco River, Fort McHenry is one of those places. The star-shaped fort played a major role in the War of 1812, but it is best known as the inspiration for “The Star-Spangled Banner.”
Over two days in September 1813, soldiers held off the mighty British naval fleet in the Battle of Baltimore. The standoff would become a turning point in the war for the American forces.
A statue of Francis Scott Key, author of the Star-Spangled Banner, greets visitors to Fort McHenry.
A young lawyer named Francis Scott Key witnessed the battle from the sea. Key was sent by President James Madison to negotiate the release of several prisoners, including Maryland physician William Beanes. Beanes was eventually released in part due to his willingness to care for both American and British soldiers during the war. The mission helped set a precedent for the rights of humanitarian workers in war zones.
The original draft of the Star-Spangled Banner in Francis Scott Key’s own handwriting is on display at the Fort McHenry visitor center.
On the morning of September 14, 1813, the results of the battle were still unknown. In the “dawn’s early light,” Key watched as the giant garrison flag—now on display at the National Museum of American History in Washington D.C.—was raised from the heart of Fort McHenry, indicating the fort had survived the battle. Inspired, he jotted the first draft of what would become The Star-Spangled Banner.
Did you know? The Star-Spangled Banner is sung to the tune of “To Anacreon in Heaven,” the official song of an 18th-century London gentleman’s club who gathered weekly for concerts, dinner and a lot of drinking.
The garrison flag flies in the courtyard of Fort McHenry. The flag has 15 stars and 15 stripes, representing each of the colonies at the time. It was the only version of the flag with more than 13 stripes.
Today, the story of America’s national anthem is the main draw for visitors to the fort. The visitor’s center welcomes you with a small museum featuring artifacts from the war and displays about the evolution of the anthem in popular culture. A short movie offers a great crash course about the War of 1812 and how Key’s came to pen the anthem. At the end of the presentation, the screen recedes into the ceiling, revealing a window looking out to the fort and the massive garrison flag waving proudly while the Star-Spangled Banner plays.
During the park ranger-led Flag Talk, participants unfurl and hold a replica of the garrison flag that flies above Fort McHenry. At 30 feet by 42 feet, it required more than 30 people to hold it steady.
After the movie, we stepped into the oppressive summer heat for a Flag Talk. A young park ranger explained the story of the 30-feet by 42-feet flag as the gathered crowd unraveled a full-size replica. Holding the flag in your hands and seeing how many people it takes to keep it aloft is awe-inspiring. It’s a physical reminder of a time when Americans worked together for the survival of our country.
Women dressed in period costumes demonstrate how soldiers would have made dried pasta during the 19th century.
We wandered through the fort itself and watched as history came alive. Most of the buildings are open, including old bomb shelters, barracks and the armory. The claustrophobic feeling of life in the barracks is palpable. The armory building has a slight lean from British bombs. You can look out over the river and see the ghosts of the Royal Navy filling the horizon.
Fort McHenry is a physical reminder of another time. A time when Americans banded together for the common good. It’s a lesson regularly forgotten and relearned in times of tragedy. In these divisive times, it’s a good lesson to keep in mind…
What does the Star-Spangled Banner mean to you? How do you feel when you walk through historic sites like Fort McHenry? Head to the comments section below to take part in the conversation!
If You Go…
Fort McHenry National Monument and Historic Shrine
2400 East Fort Avenue, Baltimore. Follow the Fort McHenry signs on the freeway as many GPS directions are incorrect. Admission to the fort is $10 for adults age 16 and older and is valid for seven days. The visitor center, museum and informational movie appear to be free.
Reaching the summit of Japan’s iconic Mount Fuji is often on the short list of activities for visitors, but few realize the small window of opportunity for novice climbers. At more than 12,000 feet of elevation, the terrain is only passable for about 8-10 weeks from mid-July to early-September.
The view of the sunrise from the summit of Mount Fuji makes climbing through the night all worth it.
Reaching the Top
The top of Japan’s tallest peak can be reached a few different ways, but most climbers attempt to arrive at the summit for the sunrise. Arriving by 4:30 a.m. requires climbing during the middle of the night. While it’s possible to make all of the arrangements yourself, it’s much simpler to book a tour through one of the many companies leading both local and foreign visitors to the top.
We made our summit in August 2014 and chose Willer Express as our travel company. With daily tours departing from near Tokyo’s Shinjuku Station, Willer Express provides bus transportation to and from Fuji’s 5th Station, an English-speaking guide, mountain hut lodging at the 8th Station, three meals and a visit to an onsen (hot springs).
Gear Up
With the 90ºF temperatures of the Tokyo summer, it’s hard to imagine you could be fighting off hypothermia less than 24 hours later. Having the right gear may be the most important consideration in making the climb an enjoyable experience.
Most tour companies offer an affordable gear package, which can be convenient for novice climbers or those traveling light. If you bring your own gear, consider the following items at a minimum:
Lightweight daypack with rain cover. Bring a bag just large enough to carry your gear. From Tokyo to Fuji’s summit, you’ll experience a 40-60ºF decrease in temperature, so you’ll need to be able to swap gear on and off along the way.
Waterproof jacket and pants. When it rains, it pours. Literally. On our summit, it started raining about 20 minutes before we reached the mountain hut at Station 8. By the time we arrived, we were soaked to the bone, even with our rain gear. Hut employees won’t allow you inside until you are dry and will greet you with leaf blowers and towels to keep the rainwater outside.
Waterproof hiking boots/shoes. With the steep ascent and descent, you’ll want properly-fitting hiking shoes with good traction. I’d recommend buying these beforehand and testing them in the wild rather than renting an ill-fitting pair of shoes on the morning of the climb. A pair of gaiters isn’t a terrible idea either to keep rain from entering via the tops of your shoes.
Cold-weather clothing. Poor clothing choices are one of the most common mistakes made by Fuji first-timers. Average temperatures at the summit are around 40ºF, but can feel much closer to freezing due to wind chill and the aforementioned rain. Dress in layers so you can add and remove as needed during the climb.
The terrain on the ascent of Mount Fuji varies from flat, volcanic rock to steep, rocky peaks. The right gear will make your experience all the more enjoyable.
Hiking poles. Poles aren’t necessary for the ascent, but will come in handy on the long, steep descent. You can purchase a souvenir wooden pole and can have it stamped at each of Fuji’s stations to mark your progress. Make sure you have gloves if you choose the wooden pole as it’s more for looks than utility.
Hats. You’ll be climbing both in the sun during the day and in the cold at night. Consider a brimmed hat for keeping the sun away and a hat that will cover your ears for early-morning climbing.
Gloves. Bring warm, durable, waterproof gloves with good grip. I had warm gloves, but once they were wet, they were no longer warm. You’ll also be using your hands a lot near the final ascent to the summit, so they’ll need to stand up to sharp rocks.
The view from our hut window around 1 a.m… a never-ending string of headlamps joining us for the climb to the summit
Headlamp. You’ll need your hands free to navigate the rocks near the summit, making a headlamp a better choice than a handheld flashlight. One of my favorite sights was waking up at the mountain hut at 1:30 a.m. and seeing the endless headlamps coming up the trail behind us.
Sunglasses/sunscreen. Fuji is exposed to all the elements, especially the sun. Bring a good quality sunscreen and UV-blocking sunglasses.
Water and snacks. Our tour company recommended three liters of water per person for the entirity of the climb. You can carry it all with you or bring one and purchase additional bottles at stations along the way. While it’s more economical to bring your own, it might be worth the extra yen to lighten your load.
Change of clothes. Bring a change of clothing and shoes, especially if you choose a package that ends with an onsen visit. The ride back to Tokyo will be much more pleasant in a clean outfit.
Japanese yen. Mount Fuji is one of the few places in Japan where you’ll find pay toilets. At 200-300 yen ($2-3 USD) per turn, you’ll want to budget accordingly. You can also buy additional water, snacks and gear at each of the stations. Japan is a very cash-oriented society, so carrying large amounts of money is not unusual.
Camera and extra batteries. The views on the mountain are breathtaking and you’ll have plenty of opportunities to take photos. I don’t recall electrical outlets in the mountain hut, so make sure you have extra batteries or a portable charger.
Extras. If you are prone to elevation sickness, oxygen canisters can be purchased along the way, but you might consider bringing one with you in case canisters are sold out. In our group, the first case of elevation sickness from the thin air showed up around the 7th Station.
The sleeping arrangements in the mountain huts are cozy and booked solid. Be prepared to make some new friends!
Tips
Stash your extra clothes, shoes and gear at the 5th Station. There are coin lockers at the 5th Station. I wish I’d stashed a complete set of dry clothes, including shoes, in one of those lockers. While the onsen was great, it was awful having to put wet clothes on afterward. It’s also a cheap way to lighten your load up the mountain.
Take the tour. Definitely spring for the tour company (we used Willer Express and would recommend them again) and take them up on their entire rental package. Mountain hut reservations often fill up quickly, but the tour companies have standing reservations.
Prepare for the rain and cold. I had a base layer, cotton shirt, DriFit pullover, fleece jacket and rain jacket and my teeth were still chattering at the summit. My gloves were soaked and freezing. My two layers of socks were the only thing standing between my toes and frostbite. Choose layering clothes as the temperature difference between the 5th Station and the summit is pretty extreme.
Check the calendar. The climbing season is short. If you’re planning to climb Fuji, make sure to schedule your trip between early July and mid-September. While you can still climb in the off-season, shops and huts are closed and trails are not maintained and the ascent can be dangerous for inexperienced climbers.
The summer of 1998 was my first in sleepy Monmouth, Ore. Best known as the home of Western Oregon University and the west coast’s last dry town, Monmouth had a permanent population right around 7,000 people in the late 1990s, but you’d be hard-pressed to find more than a few of them on a typical weekday.
I lived in a small duplex one block south of Main Street. On the morning of July 4, my roommate and I opened our curtains to discover cars parked end-to-end and people streaming en masse down our typically quiet street.
Certain the zombie apocalypse was upon us, we turned on the television for further instructions. Instead of warnings from the Emergency Broadcast System, we found the local television channel introducing the annual Western Days Parade.
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Members of the Western Oregon University drumline march in the 2016 Western Days Parade.
Kids are a big part of what makes the Western Days Parade a special event.
A classic fire truck in the Western Days Parade.
Smokey Bear catches a ride with the Oregon Department of Forestry during the 2016 Western Days Parade.
Western Oregon University mascot Wolfie served as Grand Marshal for the 2016 Western Days Parade in Monmouth/Independence, Ore.
A local florist decked out a float in red, white and blue flowers.
Even Abraham Lincoln turned out for the 2016 Western Days Parade.
No community parade is complete without an appearance by the local Shriners Club and their miniature cars.
It would be nearly 20 years later before I actually attended the parade in person. Small-town Americana is on full display as kids on bicycles and makeshift floats pulled by pickup trucks make their way down Main Street and through neighboring Independence before arriving at Riverview Park on the banks of the Willamette River.
Main Street in Monmouth, Ore. after the Western Days Parade.
Independence Day celebrations have a long history in Independence. The first recorded July 4 event was held in 1903. The all-day affair began at 9 a.m. with a parade of nearly 30 floats followed by a “Grand Barbecue.” The competition heated up in the afternoon with tug-o-war, pie eating contests and baseball games. A “Grand Ball” finished up the evening.
The event was also the first time many locals saw an automobile in person. The “horseless carriages” shuttled visitors between downtown Independence and Pioneer Park just under a mile away.
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The small town of Independence, Ore. was named an All-America City in 2014.
Fireworks at Riverview Park in Independence, Ore.
Fireworks at Riverview Park in Independence, Ore.
The celebration hasn’t changed much in the 114 years since that first event. The 2016 Western Days spanned four days with thousands of visitors coming in for the 5K fun run, parade and riverfront festival. Two nights of top-notch fireworks—funded through the hard work of year-around community fundraising efforts—anchor the holiday festivities.
The Independence Enterprise wrote after the first July 4 festival, “…the celebration of 1903 at Independence has set a new standard, a comparison to which will be drawn, and the highest compliment to be paid to any to come will be: It equals the splendid demonstration held at Independence in ’03.”
The community of Monmouth-Independence continues to set the bar high.
Special thanks to Peggy and Shannon at the Independence Heritage Museum for historical information about Independence Day in Independence, Ore.
Growing up in the northern end of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, it was easy to take the majesty of Mount Hood for granted. The glowing beacon in the east filled the horizon while effortlessly blending into the background.
Looking at the northwest face of Mount Hood from the Hood River Bridge.
It was only after moving away from the Valley that the iconic mountain became something more. When I’d drive home from college, it was the mountain that told me I was getting close. Living in Japan in the shadow of Mount Fuji, I would always be reminded of Mount Hood and how lucky I was to experience two of the world’s great natural creations on a regular basis.
Mount Hood might be the quintessential Oregon image with its perfectly pointy, snow-covered peak. But in true Oregon fashion, the natural beauty is just the first of many layers that tell the whole story of the mountain the Multnomah tribe called Wy’east.
At just over 11,000 feet, Oregon’s tallest mountain is also a semi-active volcano. Recent earthquake swarms, while common, served as a reminder that Hood is Oregon’s most likely candidate for a volcanic eruption, last bursting in 1865.
The summit of Mount Hood is mostly free of snow by mid-spring.
Eruption concerns don’t keep the visitors away. During the winter, Mount Hood is the ultimate playground for snow sports. Snowboarders and skiers come from around the world to tackle the miles of trails at Mount Hood Meadows, Timberline and Skibowl, home to the largest night skiing area in the U.S.
The surrounding national forest keeps things busy during the dry season, with more than 1,000 miles of hiking trails and 140 miles of mountain biking trails. We recently tackled a pair of gorgeous hikes, including the family-friendly Mirror Lake trail. The three-mile in-and-out hike slowly gains 700 feet of elevation via switchbacks from the trailhead to Mirror Lake. Views of Mount Hood’s peak reflecting in the aptly-named lake are simply breathtaking.
In the afternoon, we tackled a good portion of the seven-mile Ramona Falls trail. Crowds thin out after the first mile where the trail crosses the Sandy River. The bridge over the river was destroyed in a rainstorm in 2014 and has not been replaced, requiring hikers to brave the crossing via fallen tree trunks. Around mile three, the trail connects with the famous Pacific Crest Trail, leading to the wide, cascading waterfall.
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Historic Timberline Lodge near the summit of Mount Hood. The “cave” protecting the stairs from the snow was still in place in June.
The multi-floor fireplace in the Timberline Lodge lobby. The 90-foot chimney serves as the top of the iconic tower outside.
View of Mount Jefferson from Bruno Ski Lift on Mount Hood.
The snow-covered summit of Mount Hood begins to melt by early June.
With all the physical activities, it’s no surprise that the area also offers plenty of opportunities for relaxation. Timberline Lodge is among the most popular stops for tourists visiting the mountain. The National Historic Landmark was originally a project of the Works Progress Administration as a way to put people back to work after the Great Depression. The 40,000 square-foot lodge was finished in 1938 and dedicated by President Franklin D. Roosevelt himself.
Today, the lodge draws in freezing skiers and snowboarders who surround the six-sided, two-story fireplace in the lobby. A small museum tells the story of the construction and restoration of the lodge and includes displays of Native American art, artisan-built furniture and even Roosevelt’s chair. As a child of the 1980s, I was most impressed to learn that the drawing of the skier on a chairlift on the orange Pee-Chee folder was taken from a photo on Timberline’s “Magic Mile” chairlift. The photo of Merrie Douna riding the world’s second chairlift was also featured in a 1948 issue of Life magazine.
For out of town visitors, Timberline’s connection to popular culture is a major draw. The exterior of the lodge was featured in the 1980 Jack Nicholson classic The Shining as well as the film adaptation of Cheryl Strayed’s best-selling novel Wild.
On a warm day, a stop into the Mt. Hood Brewing Co. taphouse just off of Highway 26 in Government Camp is worthwhile. Six flagship brews and a handful of seasonals are served on a frozen rail built into the bar, invoking the feeling of winter even in the dog days of summer.
Timberline Lodge
From US-26, follow signs for Timberline Lodge. The lodge is open 24 hours. Check websitefor restaurant and lift hours.
Skibowl
From US-26, follow signs for Skibowl. See website for seasonal hours.
Mirror Lake Trailhead
On US-26, look for the roadside parking area about two miles west of Government Camp. A Northwest Forest Pass is required, but day passes can be purchased from stores on US-26. Family-friendly.
Ramona Falls Trailhead
From US-26, turn left onto E Lolo Pass Rd near Welches. Turn right onto Forest Road 1825 and turn right across the bridge in about a half-mile. Follow narrow road to large parking area. A Northwest Forest Pass is required, but day passes can be purchased from stores on US-26. Due to the dangerous river crossing, this is not a family-friendly hike.
The sprawling plateau of central Oregon’s high desert region is one of North America’s great adventure sports destinations. Mt. Bachelor tests experienced snowboarders and skiers during the winters. The Deschutes River draws rafters, kayakers and paddleboarders all summer long. Sprawling trails offer mountain bikers, hikers and trail runners endless possibilities.
A few miles north of Bend—central Oregon’s largest city—Smith Rock calls rock climbers from around the globe to the precipitous cliffs of its volcanic tuff. Carved out over the course of 30 million years by a collapsed volcanic crater, lava flows and finally shaped by the aptly-named Crooked River, the formation stands out from the surrounding flat farmland.
Smith Rock is widely known as the sport climbing capital of the world. More than 500 climbing routes provide opportunities for beginners and elite climbers alike. However, it was the challenging hiking trails that led us to the rock on a warm and sunny spring day.
The Crooked River helped shape the current geography of Smith Rock.
Even during the middle of the week, the ample parking area was full. A small interpretive center is surrounded by a shaded picnic area leading to the trailhead. Views from the top of the ridge are spectacular. The Crooked River winds through the formation while Mt. Washington with its distinctive pointed summit peeks out from a dip in the jagged rock.
Two paths lead from the parking area to the various trailheads. The subtle Canyon Trail takes a long loop along the rim walls down to the footbridge. The steep and rocky Chute is a straight shot for those hikers anxious to hit the trail.
Looking south toward Monkey Face from the River Trail at Smith Rock.
Across the bridge, two family-friendly trails offer an easy walk with great views of the cliffs and a front-row seat to watch the dozens of climbers attached to the walls. The mile-long Wolf Tree Trail follows the north end of the canyon while the 2.5-mile River Trail heads south and provides the best look at the famous Monkey Face.
The Misery Ridge trailhead follows steep switchbacks to the summit around 1,000 feet above.
Wanting more of a challenge, we went straight ahead to the Misery Ridge Trail. The steep and rocky switchback trail is less than a mile to the top, but difficult as it covers 1,000 feet of elevation gain on a narrow trail. Along the way, tiny dots of climbers cling to any available wall, leaving our legs weak just looking at them.
Looking north toward the Crooked River from the summit of the Misery Ridge Trail.
We approached the summit of the Misery Ridge Trail, encountering a few climbers who took the “easy” way to the top. We looked back at the challenging climb from the stone plateau where the Crooked River meandered below. We dared ourselves to take in the view, staying a safe distance from the edge of the sheer cliff.
Looking toward Mt. Bachelor and Three Sisters from the Misery Ridge Trail summit.
On the opposite side of the summit, the viewpoint opens up over the nearby cities of Redmond and Bend, all the way to the Cascade Mountain Range. We sat for awhile with a group of hikers from the Salem-area and watched as climbers tackled Smith Rock’s iconic Monkey Face.
Climbers descend Monkey Face.
Monkey Face is a 350-feet-tall rock spire that appears ready to topple at any time. Climbers ascend via multiple routes, including one known as Just Do It, considered one of the toughest free-climbing routes in the world. During our visit, the climbers descended over the monkey’s nose, resting on the mouth before dangling from their ropes and slowly lowering themselves to the rocks below.
A bald eagle soars majestically over the Mesa Verde Trail.
Misery Ridge connects to the Mesa Verde Trail for the descent with equally-steep switchbacks over loose gravel. The slow shuffle to the bottom took about an hour to cover just a mile, although we stopped for awhile to try and capture a photo of a bald eagle that swooped overhead.
A hummingbird zipped in and out of the grass near the river.
At the bottom, the trail levels out as it connects to the River Trail. We stopped repeatedly to take in the southern view of Monkey Face, where its namesake details are most visible. The River Trail expectedly follows the Crooked River back to the beginning of the trailhead.
Just when you think you’re done, a steep climb up The Chute or the Canyon Trail stands between you and your return to the top. We enjoyed a picnic lunch before making the long drive back to Portland.
If You Go…
Smith Rock State Park
From Bend, follow US-97 toward Terrebonne. Turn right on NW Smith Rock Way and left on NE 1st Street. Turn left on NE Crooked River Dr and follow the road to the parking area. Day use parking is $5 or free with an Oregon State Parks parking permit.
Misery Ridge Trail 3.7 miles, steep and rocky with about 1,000 feet of elevation gain. From the main parking lot, follow any trail toward the canyon. Take the Canyon Trail or The Chute across the footbridge and up the switchbacks at the trailhead marker. From the Monkey Face viewpoint at the summit, head down the left side toward the switchbacks connecting to the Mesa Verde Trail. As you approach the river, continue straight on the trail to connect to the River Trail and follow back to the trailhead at the footbridge.
