Day 12: The Palace of Versailles

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The outer gates at the Palace of Versailles

Located about 11 miles outside of Paris lies a monument to the opulence of Louis XIV. The Palace of Versailles was built in 1623 for Louis XIII as a simple brick and stone hunting lodge. But during a 20-year period in the 1660s-70s, the son turned it into an ornate mansion with a very-roughly estimated budget of $2 billion US dollars in today’s money.

A simple self-guided tour is a whole day affair. In what’s becoming a theme for us, it was made longer by a morning train delay that left us stuck in Paris for an extra hour-plus. Arriving later in the morning, we joined the throngs of Saturday tourists awaiting entry.

An audio guide was provided for free, providing a lot of useful information about the various rooms while also painting a picture of what daily life might have been like for the royal family and the thousands of courtiers living on the grounds.

Versailles quickly became the center of French politics until the monarchy was overthrown during the French Revolution and upkeep of the palace was neglected. Various restoration projects during the early 1800s began to restore the palace, but it wasn’t until the efforts of King Louis Philippe I to turn the palace into a public museum that modern-day Versailles began to take shape.

Visiting Versailles from Paris

We had a hard time getting good directions from our apartment in Montmartre. Every website suggested heading to the nearest RER C station, which we did. However, the RER C line is a tangled web and our nearest stop required the aforementioned painful transfer at Champs de Mars – Tour Eiffel.

If you’re staying in one of the main tourist centers of Paris, head for one of the stations between Champs de Mars and Saint-Michel – Notre-Dame bound for Versailles Chateau – Rive Gauche. The palace entrance is a 5-10 minute walk from the station.

The gold-encrusted facade of The Palace of Versailles.
The gold-encrusted facade of The Palace of Versailles.
Twin columned buildings stand on both sides of the courtyard at the palace's entrance. The inscription reads "To All the Glories of France," added at the request of King Louis-Philippe when the palace was converted to a museum in 1830.
Twin columned buildings stand on both sides of the courtyard at the palace’s entrance. The inscription reads “To All the Glories of France,” added at the request of King Louis-Philippe when the palace was converted to a museum in 1830.
Prior to the French Revolution, it was believed that the king was chosen by God. Louis XIV had the Royal Chapel built to allow the entire royal court to attend daily mass.
Prior to the French Revolution, it was believed that the king was chosen by God. Louis XIV had the Royal Chapel built to allow the entire royal court to attend daily mass.
A bust of Louis XIV sits in the Bull's Eye Salon of the King's Chamber.
A bust of Louis XIV sits in the Bull’s Eye Salon of the King’s Chamber.
The extravagant Mercury Salon in the Grand Apartment was more often home to gaming tables than sleepover guests.
The extravagant Mercury Salon in the Grand Apartment was more often home to gaming tables than sleepover guests.
Looking up at the chandelier of the War Salon. The murals on the ceiling illustrate centuries of French military conquests.
Looking up at the chandelier of the War Salon. The murals on the ceiling illustrate centuries of French military conquests.
The Diana Salon, named for the goddess of hunting, served as Louis XIV's billiards room. Two seating areas were reserved for ladies of the court to cheer on the king as he played.
The Diana Salon, named for the goddess of hunting, served as Louis XIV’s billiards room. Two seating areas were reserved for ladies of the court to cheer on the king as he played.
The 240-feet long Hall of Mirrors was a passageway for visitors waiting for an audience with the king. The ostentatiousness of the hall was intentional as visiting foreign leaders would have to make their way through this show of French power.
The 240-feet long Hall of Mirrors was a passageway for visitors waiting for an audience with the king. The ostentatiousness of the hall was intentional as visiting foreign leaders would have to make their way through this show of French power.
Detail of one of the archways in the palace. The amount of work that went into just the decoration of the palace is mind-boggling.
Detail of one of the archways in the palace. The amount of work that went into just the decoration of the palace is mind-boggling.
The Coronation Room holds three massive paintings, including a copy of "The Coronation of Napoleon." The original once hung in Versailles, but is now installed at the Louvre. My favorite part of this painting is the depiction of Napoleon's mother in the center. She declined to attend the garish ceremony, but was painted in at her son's request.
The Coronation Room holds three massive paintings, including a copy of “The Coronation of Napoleon.” The original once hung in Versailles, but is now installed at the Louvre. My favorite part of this painting is the depiction of Napoleon’s mother in the center. She declined to attend the garish ceremony, but was painted in at her son’s request.
Looking at the palace over the gardens.
Looking at the palace over the gardens.
A view of the massive property from behind the palace looking toward the Grand Canal.
A view of the massive property from behind the palace looking toward the Grand Canal.

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Day 11: Paris

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One of the many stained glass windows depicting various biblical scenes inside the cathedral at Notre-Dame.

Our first real day in Paris was a full one. With some rough weather in the forecast, we wanted to get a few of the outdoor things checked off the list. We used Rick Steves Historic Paris Walk as a rough guide and started off at Notre-Dame.

One of the world’s most famous churches, Notre-Dame is more than a religious site. It’s dark, gothic 12th century architecture is considered to be one of the foremost examples of the style. The flying buttresses that support the east side of the cathedral were among the first of their kind. The various gargoyle and chimera statues served the dual purpose of gothic art and functional water spouts for rain runoff.

Inside, the church is nothing short of magnificent. The soaring ceilings in the center of the cathedral cover an active worshiping center hosting daily masses. The outside hosts several small chapels honoring various Catholic saints via ornate stained glass installations and impressive sculptures.

From there, we walked over to the left bank of the Seine River and through the Latin Quarter. The lively area is filled with small cafes offering full French meals as well as a lot of small Mediterranean food stands with gyros, kebabs and more. The quarter is also home to the Sorbonne (University of Paris) and was given its name during the Middle Ages when Latin was the primary language of academia.

Finally, we walked across Pont Neuf, where the seagulls were busy jockeying for position on the rail to prepare for food dives into the river, and along the Seine’s right bank. Along the way, we passed the Louvre and the Grand Palace before arriving at Paris’s ultimate landmark: the Eiffel Tower.

The Eiffel Tower is one of those things that lives up to the hype. We arrived just a few minutes before dusk, when the lights came on and began to twinkle. Built by architect Gustave Eiffel for the 1889 World’s Fair, it’s now the most-visited paid monument in the world, attracting nearly seven million tourists annually.

The front facade of Notre-Dame features 28 statues of the Kings of Judah, a sculpture of Mary holding baby Jesus in the rose window and the portals of Mary and St. Anne.
The front facade of Notre-Dame features 28 statues of the Kings of Judah, a sculpture of Mary holding baby Jesus in the rose window and the portals of Mary and St. Anne.
One of the many stained glass windows depicting various biblical scenes inside the cathedral at Notre-Dame.
One of the many stained glass windows depicting various biblical scenes inside the cathedral at Notre-Dame.
A chapel behind Notre-Dame's main alter.
A chapel behind Notre-Dame’s main alter.
Notre-Dame's South Rose Window tells the story of the New Testament. It's considered one of the most important pieces of art in all of Christianity.
Notre-Dame’s South Rose Window tells the story of the New Testament. It’s considered one of the most important pieces of art in all of Christianity.
Chimera statues on Notre-Dame's north wall. The statues are part of the gothic-style decor while also serving a functional purpose as rain spouts.
Chimera statues on Notre-Dame’s north wall. The statues are part of the gothic-style decor while also serving a functional purpose as rain spouts.
The east side of Notre-Dame's cathedral is famous for its flying buttress supports, among the first of their kind when originally built in the 1100s.
The east side of Notre-Dame’s cathedral is famous for its flying buttress supports, among the first of their kind when originally built in the 1100s.
Notre-Dame's most famous gargoyle statue is perched on the south side of the front facade.
Notre-Dame’s most famous gargoyle statue is perched on the south side of the front facade.
It's hard to find a gate in Paris that isn't full of locks placed by lovers.
It’s hard to find a gate in Paris that isn’t full of locks placed by lovers.
Pont Neuf is the oldest bridge crossing the Seine, built between 1578 and 1607. The seagulls were swarming the viewpoint, clearly very used to having people around.
Pont Neuf is the oldest bridge crossing the Seine, built between 1578 and 1607. The seagulls were swarming the viewpoint, clearly very used to having people around.
Approaching the Eiffel Tower from the northeast.
Approaching the Eiffel Tower from the northeast.
The Eiffel Tower glittering at night as seen from Champ de Mars.
The Eiffel Tower glittering at night as seen from Champ de Mars.

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Day 10: Parisian Refugees

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Heading out of the train n the middle of the tracks after a train strike stopped us halfway between Charles de Gaulle Airport and Paris.

The morning of day 10 seemed destined for good things. The sun had finally broke through after two cold and foggy days in Bologna. We headed to the airport and caught our flight to Paris relatively hassle-free. When we arrived at Charles de Gaulle Airport, a man filled the air with beautiful piano music in the arrivals lobby. We caught our train and headed for the city.

About halfway to Paris, the train stopped abruptly. An announcement repeated every 5-10 minutes indicating there was an “incident,” but that’s all. After 30 minutes, some passengers began to pry open the doors and make their way down the tracks. A few passengers near us spoke English and tried to keep us and the other new arrivals informed.

After nearly an hour, and many more people voluntarily disembarking, we were told to head for the door. The best information we had was that there was a train strike in solidarity of a few Goodyear Tire employees who were imprisoned for kidnapping their bosses during recent labor negotiations.

We sat at the edge of the opened doors with the other passengers and made the jump down to the rocks on the tracks below. We followed the crowd through the light drizzle to the next station. We caught a tram to another station where the trains were also stopped. As we received directions for a bus to the city, the trains began running again and we finally made it to our destination… about four hours later than we planned.

For us, it was an odd situation, a funny story from our travels. But for many of the Parisians who have suffered horrific things in their city over the last year, it felt like too much to bear. One woman near the door was assisted by other passengers as she suffered a severe panic attack. Other passengers cried openly.

It wasn’t a terrorist attack, but the disruption still provided heroes on the day. One man held back an opening in the fence until all of the passengers, ourselves included, could crawl through and get to the street. Another man led us and a pair of Russian tourists through the next train station, helping us get to the gates. Even the security guard at the station gave us written directions for an alternate route and made sure our tickets would get us all the way to the end. Over the hours, we worked with Italians, Spaniards and French passengers to make our way, piecing together our various languages to come up with a plan.

Blue skies at the airport in Bologna.
Blue skies at the airport in Bologna.
Passengers making the few foot jump from the train to the tracks below, most packing luggage from the airport.
Passengers making the few foot jump from the train to the tracks below, most packing luggage from the airport.
Passengers walking alongside the tracks.
Passengers walking alongside the tracks.
A man holds the fence back so people can get out to the main road.
A man holds the fence back so people can get out to the main road.
Finally in our apartment with a view of the famous Moulin Rouge, the craziness of the day finally behind us.
Finally in our apartment with a view of the famous Moulin Rouge, the craziness of the day finally behind us.

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Day 9: The Streets of Bologna

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One of Bologna's most distinctive features are the thousands of porticos, or arched walls, that fill the city, many of which were built in the Middle Ages. They're such a part of the city's personality that they're being considered for a UNESCO property listing. They give a character to the town that can't be found anywhere else.

We used our last full day in Italy exploring the city of Bologna. Most famous for its cuisine (see day 8), Bologna also has a dynamic history going back to 1000 B.C. It’s been a center of culture, architecture, art and music in Italy for centuries and, as home to the world’s oldest university, it’s steeped in academic tradition.

One of its most distinctive features are the thousands of porticos, or arched walls, that fill the city, many of which were built in the Middle Ages. They’re such a part of the city’s personality that they’re being considered for a UNESCO property listing. They give a character to the town that can’t be found anywhere else.

The Fountain of Neptune stands near the city's main public plaza, Piazza Maggiore. Completed in 1597, it was commissioned in honor of the election of Pope Pius IV. Luxury auto brand Maserati uses the statue's trident design in its company logo.
The Fountain of Neptune stands near the city’s main public plaza, Piazza Maggiore. Completed in 1597, it was commissioned in honor of the election of Pope Pius IV. Luxury auto brand Maserati uses the statue’s trident design in its company logo.
The basilica and clock tower of Santi Bartolomeo e Gaetano near Bologna's iconic Due Torri (Two Towers).
The basilica and clock tower of Santi Bartolomeo e Gaetano near Bologna’s iconic Due Torri (Two Towers).
A little of everything Bologna... Asinelli Tower, the tallest of Bologna's iconic Two Towers, and the porticos lining the old streets.
A little of everything Bologna… Asinelli Tower, the tallest of Bologna’s iconic Two Towers, and the porticos lining the old streets.
A piazza in the center of the University of Bologna campus.
A piazza in the center of the University of Bologna campus.
Porticos surrounding the central piazza on the University of Bologna campus.
Porticos surrounding the central piazza on the University of Bologna campus.
The late afternoon sun finally broke through after two days of fog during our time in Bologna.
The late afternoon sun finally broke through after two days of fog during our time in Bologna.
Graffiti on storefronts near the University of Bologna campus.
Graffiti on storefronts near the University of Bologna campus.

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Day 8: Fat City

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Travel days are often the worst part of traveling. They’re full of unexpected delays, bad food and mysterious sights, smells and sounds. The first half of day eight of our adventures around Europe became one of those travel days.

Fog delayed our train from Florence to Bologna by more than an hour. What should have been an easy 35 minute trip became a multi-hour ordeal. Being in Italy, we missed out on the bad food experience, killing 90 minutes in the train station cafe drinking espresso and enjoying Ortolano sandwiches from the deli. We scored seats on the train next to the lady who spent the whole trip talking on her phone while her fussy kids cried for attention.

But it can always be worse and our travel karma balanced out when we arrived in Bologna. Our B&B was wonderful and our host, Mario, gave us a perfect lunch recommendation nearby.

Ristorante da Bertino e Figli is exactly how we pictured a small Italian restaurant; several tables packed closely together, the walls plastered in framed photos and newspaper clippings. Everyone had wine with their lunch, the conversation growing more boisterous with each passing sip. Dogs accompanied their owners into the restaurant, laying quietly under the tables as if they’d been here before.

And the food… One of Bologna’s nicknames is “La Grassa,” or “Fat” thanks to its world-famous cuisine. Tortellini, lasagne and mortadella (Americans might be more familiar with Oscar Meyer’s version called bologna) all got their start here. We had gnocchi and spinach/ricotta-stuffed tortelloni, both smothered in tomato sauce. For dessert, almond cake and semifreddo al mascarpone.

Each bite was to be savored, exploring the textures and flavors as the layers melted away in our mouths. At the end of the meal, we were looking for someone to hug or somewhere to cry tears of joy from an unforgettable meal, the best so far in Italy.

The lobby of Ristorante da Bertino e Figli.
The lobby of Ristorante da Bertino e Figli.
Dessert of almond cake and semifreddo al mascarpone, better known as tiramisu.
Dessert of almond cake and semifreddo al mascarpone, better known as tiramisu.
Students walking around the Communications campus of the University of Bologna. The city also earned the nickname of "La Dotta," or "Eridite," for its long history of higher education. The University of Bologna is the world's oldest, dating back to 1088 and boasting alumni like Nicolaus Copernicus (who figured out the sun was the center of the solar system), author Dante Alighieri and Guglielmo Marconi, the inventor of the radio.
Students walking around the Communications campus of the University of Bologna. The city also earned the nickname of “La Dotta,” or “Eridite,” for its long history of higher education. The University of Bologna is the world’s oldest, dating back to 1088 and boasting alumni like Nicolaus Copernicus (who figured out the sun was the center of the solar system), author Dante Alighieri and Guglielmo Marconi, the inventor of the radio.
The corner supermarket by our B&B had a nice selection of local nuts, and these guys who were a long way from home! Yay for Oregon hazelnuts!
The corner supermarket by our B&B had a nice selection of local nuts, and these guys who were a long way from home! Yay for Oregon hazelnuts!

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 7: Leaning Tower of Pisa

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The Leaning Tower of Pisa

There are just a handful of landmarks that are intertwined with the identity of a place. The Great Wall of China. The Statue of Liberty. The Eiffel Tower. And the Leaning Tower of Pisa.

On our last day in Florence, we took a day trip out to Pisa to see one of the world’s great architectural follies. Construction on the grand tower began in 1173, but stopped just a few years in as the first three tiers began to list. Pisa’s artisans started again 100 years later, but could never solidify the foundation, built atop soft sand and clay. To compensate for the lean, the builders created a subtle curve in the remaining tiers.

The tower continued to sink as the centuries passed. By the 1990s, it had a five degree lean and was in danger of collapsing. To bring the tower back to its original lean, workers excavated more than 70 tons of soil from the north side, effectively sinking it back to “level.” The solution is expected to preserve the structure for another 300 years.

In person, the lean of the tower is far more impressive than in photos. The flag atop the tower is perpendicular to the ground and the neighboring Baptistry (which leans 51 cm itself) provide a baseline to see how far off-plumb it really is.

The quintessential Pisa photo is the “holding up the tower” shot. Watching all the tourists holding contorted positions and balancing precariously on posts and rails, all for the perfect shot, is part of the experience.

The neighboring Baptistry provides a point of comparison to show the amount of lean in the tower.
The neighboring Baptistry provides a point of comparison to show the amount of lean in the tower.
From this angle, the "banana curve" of the tower can be seen. The original builders attempted to compensate for the tilted base by curving the remaining tiers.
From this angle, the “banana curve” of the tower can be seen. The original builders attempted to compensate for the tilted base by curving the remaining tiers.
Close-up of the base. The tower began to list after the first three tiers were built due to the unstable sand and clay soil under the foundation.
Close-up of the base. The tower began to list after the first three tiers were built due to the unstable sand and clay soil under the foundation.
Holding up the tower is a lot of work. That's why the tourists take turns.
Holding up the tower is a lot of work. That’s why the tourists take turns.
Imagine this scene without the tower...
Imagine this scene without the tower…
The tower's neighbors in Campo del Miracola, the Duomo and Baptistry, are also slightly crooked at 25 cm and 51 cm respectively.
The tower’s neighbors in Campo del Miracola, the Duomo and Baptistry, are also slightly crooked at 25 cm and 51 cm respectively.
Back in Florence to finish the day, we walked through the south part of town and across the Ponte Vecchio bridge. The bridge is lined with shops on both sides. Originally butcher shops, they now host jewelry and clothing shops.
Back in Florence to finish the day, we walked through the south part of town and across the Ponte Vecchio bridge. The bridge is lined with shops on both sides. Originally butcher shops, they now host jewelry and clothing shops.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 6: Tuscany

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A view of Tuscany's rolling hills over the picturesque homes of San Gimignano.

On our sixth day in Italy, we set out on a tour of Tuscany’s wine country by way of its historical medieval villages.

We started in San Gimignano, home to a village that dates back to 3 B.C. During the Middle Ages, the city was a popular stop for Catholic pilgrims and experienced an era of growth, adding several churches and large towers. Many of those towers still stand today, making the walled city on a hill look like a mini stone metropolis from a distance.

Lunch was at Trattoria Borgo di Racciano, a nearby vineyard, olive grove, restaurant and bed and breakfast. The menu boasts typical Tuscan food, but they do a set menu for tour groups. We started with bruschetta topped with their homemade olive oil and slices of local cheese (most plates had two slices of salami, but everyone was envious of the cheese on the vegetarian option). The second course was a simple penne pasta with tomato sauce, but it was easily the best I’ve ever had. We finished with biscotti and Vin Santo, a strong, sweet dessert wine. The cookies are meant to be dipped in the wine. All the while, bottles of white and red wine from the vineyard lined the tables. I had a bit of a nap on the bus after lunch.

From lunch, we went to the city of Siena. Possibly the most famous of Tuscany’s hill towns, it has a recorded history back to 900 B.C. Walking through the old streets was like stepping back in time, although the luxury jewelry, clothing and gelato shops kept one foot planted in the present. Our favorite part was the town square, Piazza del Campo, where we watched kids playing with confetti and silly string while dressed in costumes as they celebrated Carnivale.

We had one last brief stop in the small village of Monteriggioni. It was after dark already and the town had mostly shut down for the day. It’s most notable for being used in the description of the rings of Hell in Dante Alighieri’s 1320 poem “Divine Comedy.”

The streets of San Gimignano.
The streets of San Gimignano.
A group of locals gathered in San Gimignano's town square to chat and watch the tourists go by.
A group of locals gathered in San Gimignano’s town square to chat and watch the tourists go by.
Torre Grossa, the tallest of San Gimignano's 14 towers.
Torre Grossa, the tallest of San Gimignano’s 14 towers.
It's darks day in San Gimignano.
It’s darks day in San Gimignano.
A view of San Gimignano's towers from Borgo di Racciano.
A view of San Gimignano’s towers from Borgo di Racciano.
A lonely olive on one of the trees in Borgo di Racciano's grove.
A lonely olive on one of the trees in Borgo di Racciano’s grove.

 

The Siena Cathedral, built in the 13th century, features one of the world's most ornate church facades.
The Siena Cathedral, built in the 13th century, features one of the world’s most ornate church facades.
Confetti and silly string color Siena's Piazza del Campo.
Confetti and silly string color Siena’s Piazza del Campo.

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Day 5: Michelangelo’s David

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There are a ton of amazing sights and experiences in Florence, but our first day was all about seeing David. Michelangelo's iconic statue of a naked David after slaying Goliath stands in the heart of the Galleria dell'Accademia. The museum was originally intended to be the quintessential collection of the Master's work, but in the end, it only contains a few of Michelangelo's unfinished works and, of course, David.

After four wonderful days in Rome, we moved north to Florence. Known by the locals as Firenze, the town is like stepping into a Renaissance time machine.

There are a ton of amazing sights and experiences in Florence, but our first day was all about seeing David. Michelangelo’s iconic statue of a naked David after slaying Goliath stands in the heart of the Galleria dell’Accademia. The museum was originally intended to be the quintessential collection of the Master’s work, but in the end, it only contains a few of Michelangelo’s unfinished works and, of course, David.

We arrived before the tour groups, giving us a good 30 minutes with David unencumbered by other visitors. We took a ton of photos, then just sat and observed the craftsmanship. The joints and striations of the muscles and tendons are impeccable, as are the details of the veins bulging from his hands and arms. The proportions are near perfect, although his hands and feet seem a little large.

Then there his, well, manhood. It’s the primary feature by which people recognize the work. And it’s prominent. The statue is elevated on a marble base, so it’s front and center in every photo. At the time, you don’t give it much thought, but after we got back to the hotel and started looking at some of the pics, we couldn’t help but giggle a bit.

Click any photo in the gallery to see a larger version and start a slideshow view

The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore is one of Florence's most popular landmarks. Built in the 1400s, it's one of Italy's largest churches and certainly doesn't fit in a single photo frame!
The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore is one of Florence’s most popular landmarks. Built in the 1400s, it’s one of Italy’s largest churches and certainly doesn’t fit in a single photo frame!

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 4: Ancient Rome

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The columns of the Temple of Saturn (between 497-42 B.C.), the Arch of Septimius Severus (203 A.D.) and the Santi Luca e Martina church (625 A.D.) are some of the most famous sights of the ruins of the Roman Forum. For centuries, the Forum was the center of Rome. Today, major excavations and restoration projects are ongoing as the history of the once-great marketplace continues to reveal itself.

On the morning of our last day in Rome, we walked around the ancient part of the city. It’s a bit mind-blowing to think about walking the same streets and seeing the same sights as a society living 2,000 years ago. Roman architectural and construction methods were so advanced that some of the techniques lost during the Middle Ages, such as insulated glazing (double-pane windows), weren’t rediscovered until the 20th century.

The columns of the Temple of Saturn (between 497-42 B.C.), the Arch of Septimius Severus (203 A.D.) and the Santi Luca e Martina church (625 A.D.) are some of the most famous sights of the ruins of the Roman Forum. For centuries, the Forum was the center of Rome. Today, major excavations and restoration projects are ongoing as the history of the once-great marketplace continues to reveal itself.

The extravagant Altare della Patria is a relatively new monument, built between 1885 and 1911 to honor King Victor Emmanuel. It was controversial at the time of construction as it utilizes every architectural cliche of Roman construction aesthetics and was considered by many to be over the top. It also razed a Medieval-era neighborhood to clear a site directly at the fringe of the Roman Forum ruins.
The extravagant Altare della Patria is a relatively new monument, built between 1885 and 1911 to honor King Victor Emmanuel. It was controversial at the time of construction as it utilizes every architectural cliche of Roman construction aesthetics and was considered by many to be over the top. It also razed a Medieval-era neighborhood to clear a site directly at the fringe of the Roman Forum ruins.
A statue of Caesar stands along the ruins of the Trajan Forum. The dome of Santa Maria di Loreto, a 16th-century Catholic church, stands in the background.
A statue of Caesar stands along the ruins of the Trajan Forum. The dome of Santa Maria di Loreto, a 16th-century Catholic church, stands in the background.
Small brass plates have replaced 100 of the millions of cobblestones in the streets of Rome. They're part of a project by German artist Gunter Demnig to commemorate victims of the Holocaust. These two plaques were in front of the home where Alfredo Di Nola and Livia Seta lived when they were taken to the Auschwitz concentration camp. Demnig has set more than 48,000 plaques in 18 European countries, making it the world's largest memorial.
Small brass plates have replaced 100 of the millions of cobblestones in the streets of Rome. They’re part of a project by German artist Gunter Demnig to commemorate victims of the Holocaust. These two plaques were in front of the home where Alfredo Di Nola and Livia Seta lived when they were taken to the Auschwitz concentration camp. Demnig has set more than 48,000 plaques in 18 European countries, making it the world’s largest memorial.

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Day 3: The Pope’s Place

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The Vatican is more than the world headquarters for the Catholic Church. It's also home to a world-class collection of art from some of the great masters including Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Carvaggio and Raphael. Some of the most prolific work belongs to Rafael, including the four rooms of the Papal apartment known as the Stanze di Raffaello or Rafael Rooms. The rooms are covered in extravagant frescos detailing various tales from Christianity. Ceiling medallions such as this one, entitled "Poetry," depict some of the core tenants of the religion. The phrases held by the angels read "Touched by the Breath of God."

The Vatican is more than the world headquarters for the Catholic Church. It’s also home to a world-class collection of art from some of the great masters including Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Carvaggio and Raphael. Some of the most prolific work belongs to Rafael, including the four rooms of the Papal apartment known as the Stanze di Raffaello or Rafael Rooms.

The rooms are covered in extravagant frescos detailing various tales from Christianity. Ceiling medallions such as this one, entitled “Poetry,” depict some of the core tenants of the religion. The phrases held by the angels read “Touched by the Breath of God.”

A note on the Sistine Chapel: We walked through Michelangelo’s masterful works in the Sistine Chapel twice during our visit and it was as impressive as we are led to believe. Photos are prohibited in the chapel as it’s considered a place of worship. You can find tons of pictures online from people who ignore the no-photo rule. While not religious myself, I believe in respecting the sacred spaces of those who are, hence no Sistine Chapel photos in our collection.

Fontana dell'Acqua Paola, aptly nicknamed "The Big Fountain," sits atop the Giancolo hill near Trastevere. Built in 1612, it was the first major fountain on the Tiber Riber's left bank. We hiked up the hill early in the day, enjoying the sights of the churches and monuments of San Pietro in Montorio.
Fontana dell’Acqua Paola, aptly nicknamed “The Big Fountain,” sits atop the Giancolo hill near Trastevere. Built in 1612, it was the first major fountain on the Tiber Riber’s left bank. We hiked up the hill early in the day, enjoying the sights of the churches and monuments of San Pietro in Montorio.
Opposite the fountain, we had amazing views of Rome from St. Peter's Basilica to the Forum.
Opposite the fountain, we had amazing views of Rome from St. Peter’s Basilica to the Forum.
Atop Giancolo, we found a widespread tribute to Giuseppe Garibaldi, a 19th century Italian military hero and the namesake of a small seaside town in our home state! But even better, we found an espresso stand! Italy is the best!
Atop Giancolo, we found a widespread tribute to Giuseppe Garibaldi, a 19th century Italian military hero and the namesake of a small seaside town in our home state! But even better, we found an espresso stand! Italy is the best!
In the 1500s, Pope Gregory XVIII commissioned a priest/cartographer named Ignazio Dante to fill the 400 feet long hallway of the Belvedere Courtyard's third floor with maps featuring battles, waterways and detailed regional topography. The ceiling, painted by a group of artists, depicts scenes corresponding to each map.
In the 1500s, Pope Gregory XVIII commissioned a priest/cartographer named Ignazio Dante to fill the 400 feet long hallway of the Belvedere Courtyard’s third floor with maps featuring battles, waterways and detailed regional topography. The ceiling, painted by a group of artists, depicts scenes corresponding to each map.
The Belvedere Torso is one of the most important pieces in the Vatican collection. While the artist who carved it around 1 A.D. is relatively unknown, the piece had a huge influence on 16th century artists, in particular Michelangelo, who patterned the figures of many of the frescos in the Sistine Chapel off the sculpture.
The Belvedere Torso is one of the most important pieces in the Vatican collection. While the artist who carved it around 1 A.D. is relatively unknown, the piece had a huge influence on 16th century artists, in particular Michelangelo, who patterned the figures of many of the frescos in the Sistine Chapel off the sculpture.
A sculpture of river god Arno reclines in the Vatican's Octagonal Courtyard. The sculpture was originally carved in the second century, but restored and changed throughout the centuries by various artists. The current form is the result of Renaissance-era artists in the 16th century.
A sculpture of river god Arno reclines in the Vatican’s Octagonal Courtyard. The sculpture was originally carved in the second century, but restored and changed throughout the centuries by various artists. The current form is the result of Renaissance-era artists in the 16th century.
Transfiguration is the last work completed by Raphael before his death in 1520. It was taken by Napoleon's troops during their invasion of Italy in 1797 and installed in the Louvre. It was returned to the Vatican in 1815 where it has been displayed since.
Transfiguration is the last work completed by Raphael before his death in 1520. It was taken by Napoleon’s troops during their invasion of Italy in 1797 and installed in the Louvre. It was returned to the Vatican in 1815 where it has been displayed since.
A stained glass piece in the Vatican Museum.
A stained glass piece in the Vatican Museum.
Sphere Within a Sphere, a modern piece by Arnaldo Pomodoro, sits in the Belvedere Courtyard. St. Peter's Basilica can be seen in the distance. The sphere was originally designed for the Vatican in 1990 and has been duplicated for installations around the world.
Sphere Within a Sphere, a modern piece by Arnaldo Pomodoro, sits in the Belvedere Courtyard. St. Peter’s Basilica can be seen in the distance. The sphere was originally designed for the Vatican in 1990 and has been duplicated for installations around the world.
The aptly named Hall of Busts contains an impressive collection of famous faces from the empires of ancient Greece and Rome.
The aptly named Hall of Busts contains an impressive collection of famous faces from the empires of ancient Greece and Rome.
The exit of the Vatican Museum takes you down a steep spiral staircase (really it's a ramp with speed bumps). Most folks took pictures from the top looking down, but the view looking up was quite stunning.
The exit of the Vatican Museum takes you down a steep spiral staircase (really it’s a ramp with speed bumps). Most folks took pictures from the top looking down, but the view looking up was quite stunning.
Four hours in the Vatican Museum (including two trips through the Sistine Chapel) looks like this...
Four hours in the Vatican Museum (including two trips through the Sistine Chapel) looks like this…
We searched far and wide for Rome's best gelato and found it a short walk from the Vatican. Lemongrass has a philosophy about its ice cream that includes touting the nutritive qualities of its natural flavors. It played out in the amazing, Roman-influenced flavors like this mixture of bacio (like Nutella!), gianduja and pistachio.
We searched far and wide for Rome’s best gelato and found it a short walk from the Vatican. Lemongrass has a philosophy about its ice cream that includes touting the nutritive qualities of its natural flavors. It played out in the amazing, Roman-influenced flavors like this mixture of bacio (like Nutella!), gianduja and pistachio.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe