Africa - Cascadian Abroad

Nile River Cruise and the Temples of Upper Egypt

March 20, 2017 by Robert Haddan

After 26 hours of travel from Portland through Vancouver B.C. and London, I finally arrived in Cairo late on Christmas night, excited to see Viktoria after four months apart. My time on the ground was short-lived. We woke up the next day and headed back to the airport to embark on a Nile River Cruise of the temples of Upper Egypt.

Day 1: Aswan Dam and the Temples of Philae

Our Memphis Tours group had already started the day’s activities by the time we arrived in Aswan. We missed the unfinished obelisk—a 3,500 year old partially carved tower that would have been the largest in ancient Egypt had it been completed. We soon joined the rest of our tour group and set out for Aswan Dam.

The Temples of Philae were relocated from Philae Island to Agilika Island after the construction of Aswan Dam threatened to wash away the 2,300 year old complex.

The Low Dam was completed by the British in 1902, while the High Dam was financed by the Soviet Union and completed in 1970. The latter drastically changed the landscape of Egypt, regulating the alternating cycles of drought and flooding. After the completion of the Low Dam, several archeological sites were regularly flooded and in danger of becoming lost to the Nile.

On our way to Agilika Island, the ferry boat captain brought out bracelets and other trinkets for sale.

The Temples of Philae were among those sites. In the 1960s, UNESCO led a project to move the temples to higher ground on Agilkia Island. We boarded a boat to the island just before sunset. Our boat captain doubled as a souvenir vendor, spreading a bag full of bracelets on an empty bench as we drifted toward the island.

Together again in front of the First Pylon of the Temples of Philae in Aswan.

The temple complex provided an impressive start to the trip. The architecture of the temples of Upper Egypt is surprising compared to the pyramids of Lower Egypt. Towers with intimidating carvings surround massive doorways. At Philae, a relief of first-century B.C. king Ptolemy XII Auletes clubbing an enemy is prominent, our guide using various members of the group as props to demonstrate the meaning of the carvings. It would be the first of several times I would be recruited to play the role of a Syrian enemy—it’s the beard.

Outside the Alfayed Perfume Co. in Aswan, a man hand makes the perfume bottles used in the store. — Outside the Alfayed Perfume Co. in Aswan, perfume bottles are made by hand to be used in the store.

Before returning to the boat, we stopped at the Alfayed Perfume Company. Outside, a man made glass perfume bottles in real time. Inside, a choreographed sales pitch walked us through the scents and medicinal uses of various essential oils.

The shop staff offered a free massage to show off some of the oils. Through the silence of the rest of our group, we volunteered to seize the day. Viktoria was led to a seating area off to the side, while I was just ushered behind our group and asked to remove my shirt in the middle of the showroom. I paused at the awkwardness of the situation, but ultimately succumbed to the request. After the long flight, it was well worth it.

Day 2: Kom Ombo and Edfu

The phone rang at 5:45 a.m. to let us know day 2 had begun. Overnight we’d sailed 40 miles to the north, arriving outside the entrance of Kom Ombo temple. The early wake-up call allowed us to see the temple in the stunning morning light.

Aswan's Temple of Kom Ombo. — Aswan’s Temple of Kom Ombo.

The unique temple shows off the construction techniques of ancient craftsmen. A rare “double temple,” Kom Ombo honors two gods and each side is a mirror of the other down the temple’s center axis. Levels placed on 2,000-year-old sandstone blocks show a perfect 0º plane.

Carvings in a column at the Temple of Kom Ombo in Aswan.

The temple’s southern structure is dedicated to the god Sobek, often depicted as a human with a crocodile head. During excavation, more than 300 mummified crocodiles were found in the area. Several are on display at the nearby Crocodile Museum.

Daily life along the Nile River. The man flat-foot jumped atop his donkey to wave at our boat.

We ran the gauntlet of vendors along the river back to the boat for lunch while we sailed north to Edfu. It gave us an opportunity to watch the world as it exists on the banks of the Nile. Farmers worked the fertile and surprisingly green strip of land along the river. At one point, a man jumped atop his donkey to wave at the boat, excited by our returned greetings.

We were taken to Edfu Temple by horse-drawn carriage.

After a couple hours, we arrived on the banks of Edfu. Our guide assigned us a horse-drawn cart and we quickly set off for the Temple of Edfu. Cars and carts co-existed on the dusty city streets. Along the route, a vendor hopped into the empty seat next to our driver. He would quickly learn our names and kept an eye on us during the entirety of our temple visit with hopes we’d visit his souvenir shop. A small shouting match broke out when another vendor approached us—we’d clearly already been claimed.

Similar in appearance to the temples at Philae and Kom Ombo, the Temple of Edfu is one of the best preserved examples of its style. Construction began around 237 B.C. and was an active site until 391 A.D. when the Roman Empire banned non-Christian religious worship. Silt from the Nile and wind-blown desert sand eventually buried the temple, providing a natural protective casing.

For centuries, the Temple of Edfu was buried under sand and silt from the Nile River. As a result, it's one of the best preserved temples in Upper Egypt. Carvings and original coloring can still be seen throughout the complex. — For centuries, the Temple of Edfu was buried under sand and silt from the Nile River. As a result, it’s one of the best preserved temples in Upper Egypt. Carvings and original coloring can still be seen throughout the complex.

In the 1890s, French archeologists began clearing Edfu from its cocoon. Large carvings and reliefs appear as they would have 2,000 years ago, many with original color still intact. One of the more impressive carvings serves as a medical textbook, showing various tools and techniques used in ancient surgery.

With Horus and our Memphis Tours group at Edfu Temple.

The statue of the falcon god Horus is Edfu’s biggest draw. Perched outside the entrance to the Hypostyle Hall, the perfectly-preserved statue features Horus in bird form, wearing the double crown of Upper and Lower Egypt. Our group waited patiently with the throngs of selfie-takers to get a souvenir photo.

We navigated through the vendors, kindly declining the aforementioned shopkeeper’s insistence that we take a look, and returned to the boat. Still reeling from jetlag and the early wake-up call, we headed back to our cabin for a pre-dinner nap.

The after-dusk silence was soon shattered by a man in a rowboat who pulled alongside our boat. “Hallo!!! Good evening!” he repeated, over and over and over… There would be no rest for the weary. We headed below deck for the nightly buffet-style dinner before finally passing out for good.

Day 3: Valley of the Kings

The only thing worse than the expected wake-up call is an unexpected one. Looking forward to sleeping in a little, we were shocked awake by the phone. Our guide, Mohammad, was calling to inform us that we were leaving in 10 minutes. We soon learned that the posted schedule we checked the night before was for another group.

We quickly got ready, grabbed a couple rolls from the dining room and walked out to the dock. Overnight, we’d arrived in Luxor, the ancient city of Thebes and the former capital of Upper Egypt. We boarded a ferry boat to cross to the West Bank where a bus awaited.

The twin statues of Pharaoh Amenhotep III known as the Colossi of Memnon in Luxor.

After a short drive, we arrived at the twin, 60-feet tall Colossi of Memnon statues. Modeled after Pharaoh Amenhotep III, ruler of Egypt from 1386 to 1349 B.C., the 720-ton sandstone statues look to the east, back toward the Nile River. 3,400 years of exposure to the elements have taken their toll as the details are mostly indistinguishable.

The Colossi have been a tourist destination for more than 2,000 years. Visitors spiked following a 27 B.C. earthquake that collapsed the upper half of the northern statue. In the early mornings that followed, the remaining lower-half of the statue was reported to “sing.” Hearing the song of the “Vocal Memnon” was considered lucky, luring poets, historians, politicians and even Roman emperors. Around 199 A.D., the Romans rebuilt the upper portion of the statue, putting an end to the song of Memnon.

The Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut near Luxor's Valley of the Kings. — The Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut near Luxor’s Valley of the Kings.

We continued up the highway to the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut. A unique blend of Egyptian and Greek Classical architecture, the temple serves as a memorial to Pharaoh Hatshepsut, Egypt’s second female pharaoh.

Enclosed hieroglyphics in the Temple of Hatshepsut. Known as cartouche, they indicate a name and the beetle (scarab) usually denotes the name of a pharaoh. The top shows the name of Pharaoh Thutmose III, nephew/stepson and heir to Hatshepsut.

Significant restoration work by Polish teams has restored the temple to near-original condition. Hieroglyphics clearly tell the story of Hatshepsut’s birth and rise to power. Her reign from 1478–1458 B.C. is considered one of the most successful in Egyptian history. She established trade with modern-day Ethiopia and Sudan and commissioned hundreds of construction projects, including the unfinished obelisk in Aswan and many structures in the Temple of Karnak.

Standing with the statues outside of Hatshepsut Temple.

As with most sites, Hatshepsut’s temple is crawling with vendors and “guides” looking to make easy money. One man swapped his turban for my Chicago Cubs cap, then posed with me for a “crossed arms” photo reflective of the statues outside the temple’s main hall. Even after I slipped him a couple pounds, he continued to show us places for unique photos and pointed out hidden carvings.

No photos allowed inside the Valley of the Kings, but this map outside the gates was fair game.

After a short coffee break, we boarded the bus and continued up the road to the celebrated Valley of the Kings. From 1539-1075 B.C., more than 60 Egyptian pharaohs and nobles were enshrined in sandstone tombs dug deep into the base of al-Qurn, the highest peak of the Theban Hills.

We started in the tomb of Ramesses IV. The second tomb discovered in the valley, it’s notable for graffiti from tourists who have visited over several centuries. More than 650 drawings and inscriptions from ancient Greek and Roman visitors have been found as well as 50-plus examples left by Coptic monks who once lived in the tombs.

We also visited the tombs of Ramesses IX and Merneptah, but the clear highlight is the tomb known simply as KV62—the final resting place of Tutankhamun. The source of much of the mystery around ancient Egypt, the tomb was hidden under a workers village and left undiscovered until 1922. Inside, the completely intact tomb contained 5,398 items Tut would need in the afterlife.

Today all of the artifacts are in various museums, including the golden funerary mask. Considered one of the world’s great works of art, the mask can currently be seen in Cairo’s Museum of Egyptian Antiquities along with several other items from the tomb.

However, the most important artifact—Tut himself—is still in the tomb. Preserved in a climate-controlled glass case, you can see Egypt’s most famous pharaoh up close and personal. Due to concerns about preservation, Tut’s tomb will eventually be closed to visitors. However, a perfect replica is currently under construction nearby that will allow visitors to touch and observe the tomb in detail previously unavailable to the public.

Luxor's Karnak Temple at night during the Sound and Light Show. — Luxor’s Karnak Temple at night during the Sound and Light Show.

That evening, we joined a side excursion to Karnak Temple for the Sound and Light show. Many of ancient Egypt’s most popular sights have added projection and audio systems as a way of extending opportunities for tourist dollars. The walking tour tells the story of the temple in dramatic detail.

The Sound and Light Show at Karnak Temple reflects on the Sacred Lake.

After passing through the various pylons and Hypostyle Hall, we arrived at a set of bleachers near the Sacred Lake. The story of Karnak and the city of Thebes is projected onto the monument opposite the lake, the light reflecting on the water’s surface. While obviously designed as a tourist experience, it’s a unique way to visit the sprawling, ancient site.

Day 4: Karnak Temple Complex

The last day of our Nile River cruise finally offered an opportunity for a slow start to the day. The various tour groups began to disband as we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast. We joined the Mutha family—two doctors and their children from India—for some final sightseeing.

Karnak Temple during the daytime allows the morning sun to highlight the colors and architecture of ancient Thebes. The second-largest religious site in the world after Cambodia’s Angkor Wat complex was a fitting final-day destination. While the architecture itself wasn’t unique to anything we’d seen before, the size and scale is one-of-a-kind.

From the 134 columns of the 50,000 sq. ft. Hypostyle Hall to the 70-ton beams balanced atop the columns, Karnak is a marvel of ancient construction. Built under the watch of 30 pharaohs over hundreds of years, it’s a monument to both the rise and fall of ancient Egypt. As a result, Karnak is the most visited tourist site in Egypt after the Pyramids of Giza.

We finished our tour at Luxor Temple, believed to be the coronation site of the kings of ancient Egypt. Architecturally, Luxor follows the same model as the other temples of Upper Egypt, but with a few unique surprises. At the temple’s entrance, two giant statues of Rameses II guard the doorway.

Further inside, typical hieroglyphics and relief carvings decorate the walls. But hidden away atop a wall in a shadowy corner, a different decoration is barely visible. A Roman fresco-style painting can still be seen from the era when Luxor Temple was used as a fortress for the invading Roman Empire.

Potato and okra tagine, tabbouleh, baladi bread, baba ganoush and molokhia at Abu Gad.

After a few days of “cruise food,” the opportunity to try some of the local cuisine called our names. We turned down our tour guide’s recommendation of McDonald’s, instead opting for Abu Gad. Climbing the stairs of the multi-story restaurant to the rooftop dining room, we could hear the hustle and bustle of modern-day Luxor. We sampled several specialties, including an okra-like soup called molokhia and a potato and okra tagine cooked in the traditional clay pot.

If You Go

Memphis Tours Steigenberger Minerva Nile Cruise
Four-day Nile River cruise from Aswan to Luxor visiting the Philae Temple, Edfu, Valley of the Kings, Luxor and more. Meals included on board.

Abu Gad Restaurant
Typical Egyptian meals, sandwiches, pasta and more. Luxor City near Luxor Temple.

The Last Wonder: Great Pyramid of Giza

February 4, 2017 by Robert Haddan

A camel poses in front of the Great Pyramid.

To see something in person that you’ve only seen in photos can be a surreal experience, especially something as iconic as the Great Pyramid of Giza. The last remaining Wonder of the Ancient World rises like a mountain from the flat desert west of the Nile River. The glimpses caught through the tall apartment buildings that clutter the modern skyline are just a tease of the main attraction.

Our first up-close glimpse of the Pyramids came from a gas station... pretty good view while filling up the tank. — Our first up-close glimpse of the Pyramids came from a gas station… pretty good view while filling up the tank.

As we drove from Cairo toward Giza, it struck me how much the city encroaches on the plateau. The pyramids are typically photographed toward the west with the desert in the background. But just across the highway, the city has a front row seat to Ancient Egypt. So perhaps it’s fitting the roof of the On The Run gas station obstructed my first up-close view of the Pyramids.

The Great Pyramid of King Khufu. From a distance, the pyramids seem smooth, but up close you can see the jagged exposed limestone of the pyramid's core. — The Great Pyramid of King Khufu. From a distance, the pyramids seem smooth, but up close you can see the jagged exposed limestone of the pyramid’s core.

Only a moment later, we left modern-day Egypt behind. From a distance, the pyramids are smooth, three-dimensional triangles, but up-close, you get a sense of how they were born. More than 2 million stone blocks, each weighing more than two tons create a craggy surface. Once covered in white sandstone—some of which can still be seen atop the middle pyramid—the exposed core tells a story of the construction.

Thought to have been built by slaves, it’s now known that the pyramids were built by skilled laborers, revered and honored for their work in the form of statues found during excavations. Construction techniques still used today were applied here in 2500 B.C. Stones sit flush with perfectly-flat surfaces. Corner joints allow for heat expansion and movement during earthquakes.

Khafre's Pyramid and Menkaure's Pyramid. In the distance, a smaller pyramid belonging to one of Khufu's wives can be seen. — Khafre’s Pyramid and Menkaure’s Pyramid. In the distance, a smaller pyramid belonging to one of Khufu’s wives can be seen.

Pharaoh Khufu commissioned the three main pyramids of the Giza Pyramid Complex in the 26th century B.C. The Great Pyramid, the largest structure on Earth until the 1300s, is built in his honor. The middle pyramid—which appears largest because of its higher perch—is named for Khufu’s son and successor Khafre. The third and smallest pyramid belongs to Khafre’s son and successor, Menkaura.

The Great Sphinx and Khafre's Pyramid at the Giza Pyramid Complex. — The Great Sphinx and Khafre’s Pyramid at the Giza Pyramid Complex.

The Great Sphinx is part of Khafre’s pyramid complex. With the body of a lion and a head believed to depict Khafre, workers carved the famous statue out of the limestone from the quarry used to build the pyramids.

By all accounts, the Great Sphinx is a great kisser!

On the south side of the Sphinx, tourists gathered above the temple to pose for a variety of photos. The statue’s slightly puckered lips beg for a kissing photo. Not unlike Italy’s Leaning Tower of Pisa, part of the fun is watching visitors contort for the perfect picture.

Coming around a corner near the entrance of the Sphinx Temple, the Great Sphinx and Khafre's Pyramid peeked through the ruins. — Coming around a corner near the entrance of the Sphinx Temple, the Great Sphinx and Khafre’s Pyramid peeked through the ruins.

Mohammed from Emo Tours served as our guide and site historian. He led us into the one of the sparsely populated temples where we caught a view of the Great Sphinx from below. With no other tourists around, it was a moment of solitude to really take in the experience.

View of the three main pyramids from a northwest viewpoint.

We ended our visit at a northwestern viewpoint, looking back toward the pyramids with Cairo in the background. The blend of the ancient and modern worlds made me wonder what the pharaohs would think of all this? Did they ever imagine visitors from far away lands making a pilgrimage to this place? Or that their legacy would outlive nearly everything else from their time, to tell their story for generations to come?

If You Go

Emo Tours
Guided tours of Egypt’s top sightseeing locations and highly-rated on TripAdvisor.

Cairo at Night: The Ancient City After Dark

January 27, 2017 by Robert Haddan

Cairo's Qasr El Nil Bridge is famous for its four bronze lion statues. A pair stand guard at each end of the bridge.

For most visitors, Cairo is about pyramids, markets, museums and mosques. But after dark, the ancient city becomes a different place.

We followed Waleed, a guide with Cairo Urban Adventures (save $10 off your first Urban Adventures trip), on a four-hour trek through Downtown Cairo. Starting in the neighborhood of Dokki, we crossed the Nile River via the Qasr El Nil (translated: Palace of the Nile) Bridge, famous for its four bronze lions. The bridge lions, designed by 19th century French sculptor Alfred Jacquemart, guard in pairs at either end of the bridge. We’d previously seen Jacquemart’s work outside the Musee d’Orsay in Paris.

Sunset over the Nile River from the east end of the Qasr El Nil Bridge.

At the east end of the bridge, I dodged the chaotic traffic to take a photo of the fiery sunset over the river. Meanwhile, Viktoria was being approached by three Egyptian schoolgirls for a group selfie as the coral Egyptian Museum loomed in front of us.

We continued toward Tahrir Square, the flashpoint of the 2011 Egyptian Revolution and 2013 protests. January 25 was the anniversary of the 2011 revolution. Depending on our destination, we’ll often act as our own tour guide, but one of the perks of local guides is hearing local stories.

Waleed shared his own experience of the revolution; of guiding a tour group out of the city before returning to take a “neighborhood watch” shift to protect his apartment building from rioters. He told of the internal struggle of wanting to be a part of the movement to end the corrupt 30-year reign of president Hosni Mubarak while also worrying for the safety of his father, a police officer serving in the heart of the square.

Graffiti from the 2011 Egyptian Revolution along Mohamed Mahmoud Street near Tahrir Square.

Today, it’s hard to picture 300,000 people gathered in the busy roundabout, but the marks of the revolution are still visible today. Outside the American University of Cairo, a single wall of graffiti from the 2011 revolution still stands today—the rest demolished in 2015 as part of a Tahrir Square renovation project. The simple image of a child eating a baladi bread sandwich flanked by a pile of skulls tells a powerful story, especially at night.

Graffiti from the 2013 protests depict the Muslim Brotherhood along Mohamed Mahmoud Street near Tahrir Square.

Nearby, a more complete collection of graffiti from the 2013 protests changes the story, depicting the ire against President Mohamed Morsi and the Muslim Brotherhood in a more comic style. Waleed led us through dark side streets, describing the meaning behind the images and the messages written in Arabic.

It was time to lighten the mood, which happened literally under the bright lights of historic Talaat Harb Street. After a couple hours of walking, it was time to eat, so we headed to Abou Tarek for koshari. Viktoria had already visited on a previous tour and it was on my must-eat list. I was not disappointed. The simple, filling national dish of Egypt can be found all over the city, but Abou Tarek is king.

After dinner, it was time for dessert and the last stop of our walking tour. We went to El Abd, one of Cairo’s most famous bakeries. Outside, people queue for house-made gelato. Inside, fresh-baked semolina cakes, phyllo-dough birds’ nests and other Egyptian sweets are up for grabs. Visitors elbow, shove and shimmy their way through the small, crowded shop. I found a nice gift box to take back to my co-workers in Cascadia.

We ended the night with one last adventure; Waleed lived in a neighborhood close to ours and offered to help us navigate the intimidating Cairo Metro. He bought our tickets for the equivalent of a nickel (five cents) and we boarded the train.

As the only foreigners on the Metro, the locals met us with friendly smiles and curious stares. We made small talk with a couple of young professional footballers on our journey back to Maadi. Waleed bid us farewell a few stops before ours, ending a great night in the real Cairo.

If You Go…

[google_maps id=”9466″]

Horseback Riding at the Giza Pyramids

December 24, 2016 by Viktoria Haddan

I was very fortunate to be invited by my friend, co-worker and fellow Cascadian Becky to join a desert horseback ride to see the Giza Pyramids. She has been taking lessons at Cairo Horse Riding School, which has beautiful facilities in Giza.

Goat traffic on the way to the riding school on a small, country road in Giza. This is not typical of Cairo traffic at all!

Although the last time I rode a horse was during a childhood summer camp, I couldn’t pass up an opportunity to experience a different perspective of the pyramids. The owners of the school, Tamer and Jenny, were very friendly and patient with this beginner. Tamer stayed near me and led my horse, Sumayah, a white Arabian.

The first glimpse of the Pyramid Complex!

I like this picture because of the contrast of the desert on the left and the green farmland of Giza on the right.

Especially because I’m not too keen on riding a camel due to ethical reasons, I definitely recommend the experience as an alternative way to see the villages and stables in Giza and the neighboring Great Pyramids.

Jenny, me and Becky on our Arabians with the Giza Pyramids in the background.

It was a very quiet and peaceful experience. Parts of the desert felt like we were in another world or the set of “Star Wars,” which was filmed in Tunisia, not too far from here, I guess!

View of desert riders and the city of Cairo in the distance.

We saw Egyptian riders at full gallop enjoying the wide, open space of the desert. Because it is December, it wasn’t too hot, but the sun is still pretty powerful. And there was a desert wind, as the sound on my short video reminded me.

The desert "café" is a great place for riders to stop and take a rest. — The desert “café” is a great place for riders to stop and take a rest.

Tamer leading the horses to a resting spot.

When we reached the viewpoint of the Giza Pyramids, we stopped at a tent, where a man came out to take our order for tea and cold beverages. I could get used to this view and service! And now I have seen the pyramids from the north, east and south (desert).

Me with my mint tea enjoying the view. As I get older, I’m less shy about doing new things!

The three largest Pyramids of Giza and the three smaller ones on the left are the Pyramids of the Queens.

Thank you for the unforgettable experience.

Video: Horseback Riding at the Giza Pyramids

If You Go…

Cairo Horse Riding School Desert Rides

Giza, Egypt
About 2-3 hours for saddling up, riding and rest break
Very safety-minded, using helmets and precautions
Horses are very well taken care of
About $20 USD

Great Pyramids Sound and Light Show

December 22, 2016 by Viktoria Haddan

I definitely felt like a tourist when I decided to go and see the Giza Pyramids sound and light show, but I didn’t care. I am part tourist and part temporary teacher transplant. I read online that the show was a little cheesy and that is exactly what convinced me to go. With a free weekend night, I set off.

My entrance ticket outside the gate. The English show runs every night.

Although there are a multitude of tour companies offering to pick you up, deposit you onsite and take you back home, there is no need to book a “tour” to do this. Just arrange a taxi, driver or Uber to take you and wait out the hour-long show. Even as a foreign woman alone on a Friday night, it was fine.

I paid 135 Egyptian Pounds (about $8 USD) for a “front row” seat, but as most tourist things in Cairo, even on a weekend, it was not busy nor did I have to fight the crowds. As soon as I walked in, I saw the Sphinx in front of the outlines of the three largest pyramids. I think that was worth the ticket price alone. Although I had seen the pyramids from afar, this was my first up close and personal. And with the lack of crowds, you really do feel like you have a private audience with the pyramids.

The illuminated Sphinx, with the body of a lion and the head of a person, is quite smaller than the pyramids but still impressive.

From smallest to largest: Pyramid of Menkaure, Pyramid of Khafre and Pyramid of Khufu.

Somebody corralled me and told me where the best seat was (the far right, front). I sat down and waited for the show to start. With a booming narration and moving lights, the show tells the story of how the pyramids were built and how they survived the ages. There are images projected onto stone walls as well as the Great Sphinx of Giza himself.

The Great Pyramid Complex illuminated by colored lights. If you have a tripod for your camera, bring it with you.

The Great Sphinx. Can you spot his lion paws? The Sphinx is thought to represent the Pharaoh Khafre, whose pyramid is behind the Sphinx from this view.

In this view, the Sphinx is superimposed with a mask, a nose and a false chin/beard.

If You Go…

Great Pyramids Sound and Light Show

100 EGP for regular or 135 EGP for “VIP”
English show every night
From May 1 to September 30: 7:30 p.m.
From October 1 to April 30: 7:00 p.m.
Make sure to specify the east entrance of light and sound show near the Sphinx, not the regular pyramids entrance, which is more to the north
Bring a jacket, it gets cool and windy at night, especially after October
Don’t have high expectations, it’s just for fun and snapping pictures!

Abou Tarek Koshari

November 23, 2016 by Viktoria Haddan

The exterior of Abou Tarek Koshary in downtown Cairo. It is the one and only location. The sign states "We have no other branches."

I was really excited to try the koshari at Abou Tarek, one of the most well-known restaurants in Cairo.

The koshary dish at Abou Tarek. This is a small portion and I had a hard time finishing it.

Koshari (koshary / kushari) is a typical Egyptian dish. It’s very filling and is originally a peasant/lower class food. It is still very inexpensive (think $1 USD or less) with giant portions. It has rice, macaroni and vermicelli noodles as a base with cooked lentils and chickpeas on top. On top of that is a light, red sauce and fried onions. You can also add a lemon garlic sauce and/or hot sauce. I like both. And koshari is vegan so how exciting is that?

The restaurant is located in a busy area. I took this picture from the second floor looking down at the street where these men were enjoying the national pastime of people watching.

My first koshari was delivered to my house from Zooba; the restaurant also makes a whole grain version with wheat pasta and crushed wheat that I’d like to try. I’ve also had it from the local chain Koshary El Tahrir. But the one at Abou Tarek in downtown Cairo is the best because they make everything fresh, including frying the onions. The crispy onions make it magical.

Takeout from Koshary El Tahrir. This was dinner and then breakfast the next day.

I have to admit, the ingredient list of koshari doesn’t sound that impressive, but put all together, it works. I usually have pasta, lentils and red sauce at home so it’s easy to make my own quick version.

Check out the day tours by Emo Tours. Mine included the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, Citadel with the Mosque of Muhammad Ali, the Khan el Khalili Market and a stop at Abou Tarek Koshary.

Mosque of Muhammad Ali in the Cairo Citadel

November 20, 2016 by Viktoria Haddan

The Mosque of Muhammad Ali at the Citadel of Cairo.

One of my city tours included the Cairo Citadel. I didn’t know much about it except that the last time I drove past it was during Eid (one of the religious holidays) and it was packed with people.

I learned that the citadel used to be the city center and was fortified/walled to keep out the Crusaders, who were trying to spread Christianity through a series of religious wars. The walled complex used to be much larger, but was split in two when a major highway was built in the middle of it.

The citadel is now just a site that includes several defunct museums and three mosques, the most prominent of which is the Mosque of Muhammad Ali. It was built by Muhammad Ali Pasha in 1848 and is not related to the American boxer who took the same name. Side note: Muhammad, Mohamed and Ahmed are very popular names here; parents name boys after the Prophet himself.

It cost about $6 (more or less depending on what the dollar is doing on a given day) to enter the whole site as a foreigner. For locals, the cost is very minimal and as a result, it’s a popular gathering place. No shoes in the courtyard or interior of the mosque, obviously, but I didn’t have to cover my head. I wore long pants and a t-shirt and had no problems. It was a worthwhile trip to see the most recognizable white alabaster mosque in the “City of a Thousand Minarets.”

Thanks Wikipedia for details about the mosque.

Check out the day tours by Emo Tours. Mine included the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, Citadel with the Mosque of Muhammad Ali, the Khan el Khalili Market and a stop at Abou Tarek Koshary.

First glimpse of the mosque as it sits on top of the city. I believe there is a Holy Quran in the driver’s car as well!

Approaching the walls of the Cairo Citadel. The mosque sits at the summit of the walled city.

A group of women near the mosque. Coming to the Citadel is quite a social/spiritual event, especially during holidays and holy days.

The limestone exterior and iron windows. The mosque is built in the Ottoman/Turk style.

Looking up at one of the minarets. The mosque is one of the most easily recognizable in Cairo.

The alabaster covered courtyard of the Mosque of Muhammad Ali.

Standing in the courtyard of the mosque and the clock tower. The clock tower was a gift from King Louis Philippe of France in 1845 and my guide said it was a bad gift because the tower didn’t have lasting power and started crumbling (see the scaffolding around it?).

The interior of the mosque. My guide mentioned that it is distinctive because of its red carpet. People were relaxing and hanging out. It was in between prayer times.

The “minbar” of the mosque (center left) is where the prayer leader sits and leads prayer and service.

Walking out the door to views of the gardens and city of Cairo.

Corridor of arches along the exterior of the mosque.

Views of Cairo from the top of the Citadel. Can you spot the two largest Pyramids of Giza in the haze?

A peek of the green-domed Al-Nasir Muhammad Mosque behind Muhammad Ali.

The crescent moon and star, symbol of Islam, sits on top of one of the white domes.

Bibliotheca Alexandrina: One of the Coolest Libraries in the World

November 14, 2016 by Viktoria Haddan

The Bibliotheca Alexandrina in Alexandria, Egypt

I had first read about the Bibliotheca Alexandrina in one of those Buzzfeed articles about beautiful libraries around the world. When I think of beautiful libraries, I imagine open yet cozy spaces with shelves of jewel toned book spines with gold script and overstuffed chairs. Even more so for a library with a location home to an ancient civilization.

But on my trip to Alexandria, I discovered an ultra-modern facility built in 2002. UNESCO supported the rebuilding of the library and held a design contest. The exterior of the building has writing from 120 different world scripts.

There was an ancient library called the Library of Alexandria, but it was destroyed in several fires and sieges by Julius Caesar and later when the Muslims invaded Egypt. It housed the ancient world’s largest collection of papyrus scrolls aimed to have all of the world’s knowledge in one place.

I wandered through the main floor of the library, where there were exhibits with vintage printing presses as well as books in Arabic, French and English. You cannot check out any books from the library, only read them while you are there. There is a university nearby so I saw many students studying and using computers.

I got my fix for ancient books in the Manuscript Museum, where I saw a piece of papyrus originally thought to be in the first library, illustrated copies of the Quran and first editions of Arabic books.

The “Fac-simile des monumens colories de L'Egypte” is one of the original books in the library. It was an illustrated history of ancient Egypt done by the French. It’s how we now know what the temples used to look like. — The “Fac-simile des monumens colories de L’Egypte” is one of the original books in the library. It was an illustrated history of ancient Egypt done by the French. It’s how we now know what the temples used to look like.

The slanted roof has skylights and blue and green colors aimed at peace and relaxation.

The modern facilities of the Bibliotheca Alexandrina.

The French collection of books on the main floor. France donated 500,000 books to the library, making it the largest French collection in the Arab world.

Art and exhibits, including a linotype machine created by the ‘second Gutenberg’ Ottmar Mergenthaler.

A student studies/takes a study break on her mobile.

A copy of Shakespeare’s “The First Folio,” published in 1623.

The oldest manuscript in the library, one of the Quran.

The copy of the “Gutenberg Bible,” the first book to be printed on a printing press in 1456. It looks like it was transcribed by hand to me!

A page from the “Description de l'Égypte,” which was the collection of observations and research which were made in Egypt during the expedition of the French Army. — A page from the “Description de l’Égypte,” which was the collection of observations and research which were made in Egypt during the expedition of the French Army.

A copy of a papyrus scroll from the original library.

“The Book of the Dead (Papyrus of Ani)” is a copy of the original at the British Museum. The book held stories or spells that helped the spirits navigate the afterlife.

Alexandria, Egypt

October 17, 2016 by Viktoria Haddan

View of the Qaitbay Citadel on Alexandria’s Mediterranean coast.

Last weekend, I was fortunate to have time to take a day trip to Alexandria. Alexandria is north of Cairo and lies on the Mediterranean Sea, where the Nile River spreads out and drains into the sea. I learned in the Nile felucca post that the Nile runs south to north—which defies my logic!

The interesting thing about Alexandria is that it was founded by the Greek Alexander the Great so the Greco Roman influence is felt in the architecture, ruins and religion. It’s where Cleopatra courted Julius Caesar and later ruled fawith Mark Antony (now that is #goals). The sunny blue skies, white washed buildings and colorful boats gave more of an Athens than Cairo feel. I was elated by fresh sea air and blue skies!

Are we still in Egypt? The slanted building to the right is the Bibliotheca Alexandrina.

Robert had a discount code from winning a photo contest with Urban Adventures so I used it for their day tour of Alexandria. Urban Adventures tagline is ‘Best. Day. Ever.’ And it really was. The drive time to Alexandria from Cairo is about three hours, give or take an hour depending on traffic.

Blue skies and palm trees in Alexandria. And it wouldn’t be Egypt without a couple of minarets!

We started at the city’s Kom el Shoqafa catacombs; I didn’t know it was one of the Seven Wonders of the Middle Ages. It was discovered in the modern age of 1900 when a donkey almost fell down one of its air shafts. The catacombs were the city’s underground burial place for humble residents and honored royals alike. When I first heard “catacombs,” my mild claustrophobia kicked in with visions of long, dark tunnels and skulls. Thankfully, the tombs were well lit with plenty of headroom and oxygen.

The artwork on the main familial tomb had both Greek influenced art—after viewing the drawings inside in the Sakkara tombs, I could see the difference. Greek art is more rounded and freestyled while Egyptian is more angular and uniform. Our guide said that if Egyptian artists had painted pyramid tombs as carelessly as the Greeks they would be fired!

Greek style art in the main burial chamber of the catacombs.

Next, we passed by the Romans ruins of an amphitheater, which again, made me question where we were. The ruins were only discovered in 1960, accidentally again. They were purportedly used as a meeting or lecture hall.

After lunch, we started exploring my favorite part of the city, which is the corniche, or waterfront area. It was gorgeous!

Click any photo in the gallery to see a larger version and start a slideshow view

Boats lining Alexandria’s corniche, or waterfront promenade.

Our little group started to scatter in all directions to take pictures. With the city to our left and the water and boats to our right, we strolled until we reached the Qaitbay Citadel.

The Modern Mosaic by Fort Qaitbay. Mosque and minarets are pictured on the bottom left. Beside, stand the gods Taweret and Ra.

This citadel is built upon the exact location of the original Alexandria Lighthouse (one of the Ancient Wonders of the World). The lighthouse used to be the tallest manmade structure in the world, which is amazing considering it was on a tiny island.

Click any photo in the gallery to see a larger version and start a slideshow view

It’s unfortunate that of the tourists who do come to Egypt, few make it to Alexandria. I’m lucky to have experienced it and I’m looking forward to my next trip!

Look for an upcoming post about the Bibliotheca Alexandrina (Alexandria Library).

Cairo’s Khan el Khalili Market

October 10, 2016 by Viktoria Haddan

Cairo’s most famous market, also known as “souk,” has been around since the 1500s. It’s popular with tourist and Egyptian shoppers alike; though like many “tourist” places in Egypt it was pretty lacking in tourists who looked like me. Come to Egypt, one and all!

Khan (the k is not pronounced) means ruler or king. Khalili refers to Prince Jaharkas Al-Khalili.

Khan el Khalili was on my list of things to see right away. I was interested in looking at the market’s famous gold and silver jewelry. I also wanted to find a Turkish coffee pot. I did a lot of window shopping and didn’t end up buying anything, but I may have to think about making room in my suitcases for some of the unique copper lanterns. The merchants weren’t pushy and let me browse in peace for the most part!

The market is situated next to a large mosque called Al-Hussein. Next to the mosque is a row of historic coffee and tea shops, where I stopped for some mint tea and people watching. Smoking shisha/hookah (water pipes with different flavors of tobacco) is a common pastime here also. It was a busy Saturday and lots of local tourists and families were milling around, making a visit to the mosque and souk.

For my next visit, I would like to come back in the evening. Cairo seems to come alive at night.