Berlin

Day 22: Embracing Today

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The section of the Berlin Wall at Ackerstraße is the last remaining original section and is part of the Berlin Wall Memorial. The first sections of the wall were built here and, in a symbolic gesture, were among the first to be torn down.

Because of the way our flights worked out, we only had two full days in Berlin. It’s tough to balance seeing the “things” with getting to see some of the real city in such a short amount of time.

On day 22, our last in Berlin, we took the metro to the popular Kreuzberg neighborhood for its Turkish Market. Dozens of vendors sell everything from fresh produce to freshly-made Turkish food to fabrics and handmade goods. It was exactly what we needed to lift our cold and rainy spirits from the day before.

From there, we walked around the aptly-named Museum Island, home to many of Berlin’s top collections. At one point, about 20 police vans went screaming by. Armed officers lined the streets, closing off sections of the area. Eventually we gave up and moved on to the Berlin Wall Memorial near our Airbnb (affiliate link—sign up now and receive a discount on your first booking!).

We’d later discover that the police presence was due to an official state visit by Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu. The PM and his entourage beat us to the Memorial, but fortunately it was mostly open for us to move around.

The memorial is located around the only remaining original section of the wall. A guard tower and an area between the walls known as the “death strip” have been preserved as well. It’s a powerful memorial as it shows scenes from before, during and after and the impact it had on the Ackerstraße neighborhood.

The Turkish Market in Berlin's Kreuzberg neighborhood was excellent, packed with food, produce, crafts, fabric and more.
The Turkish Market in Berlin’s Kreuzberg neighborhood was excellent, packed with food, produce, crafts, fabric and more.
A vendor at the Turkish Market serves up salep, a drink made from milk, starch, sugar, cinnamon and a glutinous flour made from orchids. It was delicious with a texture like tapioca.
A vendor at the Turkish Market serves up salep, a drink made from milk, starch, sugar, cinnamon and a glutinous flour made from orchids. It was delicious with a texture like tapioca.

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A 3-D mural on a wall near the Turkish Market.
A 3-D mural on a wall near the Turkish Market.
Climbers descending the sphere of the 1,200 foot tall TV tower in Berlin.
Climbers descending the sphere of the 1,200 foot tall TV tower in Berlin.
A police tank in Berlin's Museum Island district. Hundreds of police vehicles and officers patrolled the streets due to a visit from Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu. As a result, many sights were inaccessible as Netanyahu and his entourage visited the area.
A police tank in Berlin’s Museum Island district. Hundreds of police vehicles and officers patrolled the streets due to a visit from Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu. As a result, many sights were inaccessible as Netanyahu and his entourage visited the area.
One of the last remaining original stretches of the Berlin Wall at the Berlin Wall Memorial.
One of the last remaining original stretches of the Berlin Wall at the Berlin Wall Memorial.
A cross commemorating the graves of St. Elizabeth Cemetery that were displaced by the building of the Berlin Wall seen through a crack in the wall.
A cross commemorating the graves of St. Elizabeth Cemetery that were displaced by the building of the Berlin Wall seen through a crack in the wall.
A guard tower and the area between in inner and outer walls known as the "death strip" can still be seen at the Berlin Wall Memorial.
A guard tower and the area between in inner and outer walls known as the “death strip” can still be seen at the Berlin Wall Memorial.
Very few pieces of the Berlin Wall remain today, but the path of the wall is still clearly marked by a double row of cobblestones with a plaque inserted at regular intervals.
Very few pieces of the Berlin Wall remain today, but the path of the wall is still clearly marked by a double row of cobblestones with a plaque inserted at regular intervals.
A cross placed by the Church of Reconciliation at the memorial. The church's membership was divided by the wall. In 1985, the church was destroyed by the East German government.
A cross placed by the Church of Reconciliation at the memorial. The church’s membership was divided by the wall. In 1985, the church was destroyed by the East German government.
The wall was built over a section of graves at the St. Elizabeth Cemetery. When the wall was torn down, the cemetery kept the section that was built over the grave sites as a memorial to the disturbed souls.
The wall was built over a section of graves at the St. Elizabeth Cemetery. When the wall was torn down, the cemetery kept the section that was built over the grave sites as a memorial to the disturbed souls.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 21: A City Divided

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Berlin's East Side Gallery

For nearly 30 years, a major world city was divided in half by a concrete wall. On one side, Western-style prosperity flourished in a post-war economic boom. On the other side, people longed for freedom as they lived under the thumb of a totalitarian government.

The Berlin Wall—Berliner Mauer in German—served a dual purpose. Technically, the wall faced West Berlin, keeping the “fascists” (as East German propaganda referred to the west) from crossing into the Communist-controlled east. But ultimately, the wall kept East Berliners inside. With each escape attempt, the wall as further fortified until it became virtually impenetrable.

On our first full day in Berlin, we walked a three-mile stretch of the wall’s remains from the East Side Gallery to Brandenburg Gate. While only small stretches of the wall still exist, a double-cobblestone line traces the original position of the wall through the streets of Berlin.

East Side Gallery features works of peace and politics and has now stood as a symbol of freedom for nearly as long as the wall stood as a symbol of the Cold War. West Berliners famously used the wall as a canvas for political street art. When the wall finally fell in 1989, a project was commissioned to bring artists from all around the world to paint murals on the newly-opened border.

During the 1990s and 2000s, many of the paintings degraded due to weather or were covered by graffiti. In 2009, a new project commissioned the original artists to come back and redo sir works using more appropriate paint. Fences were added to limit the reach of vandals.

Today, the gallery is the longest stretch of the original wall in Berlin at just short of a mile. Signs detail each of the 105 paintings showing when that piece of the wall was constructed, when it fell, when it was painted and when it was restored.

Click any photo in the gallery to see a larger version and start a slideshow view

The famous sign at Checkpoint Charlie, an original border crossing between East and West Berlin is now in a museum. The checkpoint has been recreated in its original spot, complete with "American" soldiers as a tourist photo op.
The famous sign at Checkpoint Charlie, an original border crossing between East and West Berlin is now in a museum. The checkpoint has been recreated in its original spot, complete with “American” soldiers as a tourist photo op.
The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe is a far-reaching series of stone slabs with varying heights. According to documents, the memorial is "designed to produce an uneasy, confusing atmosphere, and the whole sculpture aims to represent a supposedly ordered system that has lost touch with human reason."
The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe is a far-reaching series of stone slabs with varying heights. According to documents, the memorial is “designed to produce an uneasy, confusing atmosphere, and the whole sculpture aims to represent a supposedly ordered system that has lost touch with human reason.”
Built in 1791, the Brandenburg Gate originally served as the beginning of the road from Berlin to Brandenburg City. The gate was closed off during the wall era and became a symbol of reunification when the wall finally came down in 1989.
Built in 1791, the Brandenburg Gate originally served as the beginning of the road from Berlin to Brandenburg City. The gate was closed off during the wall era and became a symbol of reunification when the wall finally came down in 1989.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 20: Berlin

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A building across from the Beisselstr. train station in Berlin.

Just as it was unfair to judge Barcelona at its best, we had to be careful not to dismiss Berlin at first glance. Compared to sunny Barcelona, arriving in Berlin was quite a shock as we were greeted by below-freezing temperatures and rain mixed with snow. The boisterous crowds of tourists gave way to bone-chilled locals who all seemed to be on edge. As we arrived at the metro stop near our Airbnb apartment, we saw two people fighting in another car. Pepper spray was deployed. It wasn’t pretty.

Our apartment ended up being further away from things than we anticipated out in the eastern suburb of Wedding (pronounced Vedding), but that gave us a chance to explore the real Berlin. On a Sunday night, that means most things are closed.

The neighborhood is one of Berlin’s poorest financially, but richest in terms of diversity with 48 percent of the population made up of non-Germans, primarily Turkish immigrants. We saw this walking through the streets as we ended up at a small, family-run Turkish restaurant for dinner. Of the three tables, we occupied one and the family, sitting down for their own dinner, occupied the other two. The food and atmosphere were both great.

After dinner, we walked to Vagabund Brauerei, one of a growing number of craft breweries in Berlin. Vagabund considers the movement a renaissance instead of a trend. During the 19th century, more than 700 breweries existed in the city with a focus on the signature Berliner Weisse, a white sour beer. Today, there are around 20 craft breweries in the city, combining old German-style recipes with influences from around the globe. The IPA we ordered at Vagabund was packed with Oregon-grown hops.

Next we stopped into Simit Evi, a bakery (or konditorei) packed with people enjoying a late-night sweet. We shared a slice of cake and drooled over the other treats on display. Before heading home, we bought a loaf of bread at a small bakery. The old lady behind the counter handed us a couple of of sesame rings—also called simit in Turkish—as we headed out. So kind. So delicious!

On the way back to the apartment, we heard the familiar sound of drums. Unlike in Barcelona, these drums were accompanied by a flute. We followed the sound to the community hall where a Turkish wedding was underway. The bride and groom had just arrived and the party was headed inside. A wedding in Wedding… perfect!

Looking out the airplane window as we leave Barcelona.
Looking out the airplane window as we leave Barcelona.
The kitchen of our Airbnb has a Jackson Pollock-inspired design.
The kitchen of our Airbnb has a Jackson Pollock-inspired design.
The makali plate, a mix of fried vegetables, at the small Turkish restaurant.
The makali plate, a mix of fried vegetables, at the small Turkish restaurant.
Vagabund Braurei in Wedding's up-and-coming Leopoldplatz district.
Vagabund Braurei in Wedding’s up-and-coming Leopoldplatz district.
Cake at Simit Evi.
Cake at Simit Evi.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe