Cairo

The Last Wonder: Great Pyramid of Giza

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A camel poses in front of the Great Pyramid.

To see something in person that you’ve only seen in photos can be a surreal experience, especially something as iconic as the Great Pyramid of Giza. The last remaining Wonder of the Ancient World rises like a mountain from the flat desert west of the Nile River. The glimpses caught through the tall apartment buildings that clutter the modern skyline are just a tease of the main attraction.

Our first up-close glimpse of the Pyramids came from a gas station... pretty good view while filling up the tank.
Our first up-close glimpse of the Pyramids came from a gas station… pretty good view while filling up the tank.

As we drove from Cairo toward Giza, it struck me how much the city encroaches on the plateau. The pyramids are typically photographed toward the west with the desert in the background. But just across the highway, the city has a front row seat to Ancient Egypt. So perhaps it’s fitting the roof of the On The Run gas station obstructed my first up-close view of the Pyramids.

The Great Pyramid of King Khufu. From a distance, the pyramids seem smooth, but up close you can see the jagged exposed limestone of the pyramid's core.
The Great Pyramid of King Khufu. From a distance, the pyramids seem smooth, but up close you can see the jagged exposed limestone of the pyramid’s core.

Only a moment later, we left modern-day Egypt behind. From a distance, the pyramids are smooth, three-dimensional triangles, but up-close, you get a sense of how they were born. More than 2 million stone blocks, each weighing more than two tons create a craggy surface. Once covered in white sandstone—some of which can still be seen atop the middle pyramid—the exposed core tells a story of the construction.

Thought to have been built by slaves, it’s now known that the pyramids were built by skilled laborers, revered and honored for their work in the form of statues found during excavations. Construction techniques still used today were applied here in 2500 B.C. Stones sit flush with perfectly-flat surfaces. Corner joints allow for heat expansion and movement during earthquakes.

Khafre's Pyramid and Menkaure's Pyramid. In the distance, a smaller pyramid belonging to one of Khufu's wives can be seen.
Khafre’s Pyramid and Menkaure’s Pyramid. In the distance, a smaller pyramid belonging to one of Khufu’s wives can be seen.

Pharaoh Khufu commissioned the three main pyramids of the Giza Pyramid Complex in the 26th century B.C. The Great Pyramid, the largest structure on Earth until the 1300s, is built in his honor. The middle pyramid—which appears largest because of its higher perch—is named for Khufu’s son and successor Khafre. The third and smallest pyramid belongs to Khafre’s son and successor, Menkaura.

The Great Sphinx and Khafre's Pyramid at the Giza Pyramid Complex.
The Great Sphinx and Khafre’s Pyramid at the Giza Pyramid Complex.

The Great Sphinx is part of Khafre’s pyramid complex. With the body of a lion and a head believed to depict Khafre, workers carved the famous statue out of the limestone from the quarry used to build the pyramids.

By all accounts, the Great Sphinx is a great kisser!
By all accounts, the Great Sphinx is a great kisser!

On the south side of the Sphinx, tourists gathered above the temple to pose for a variety of photos. The statue’s slightly puckered lips beg for a kissing photo. Not unlike Italy’s Leaning Tower of Pisa, part of the fun is watching visitors contort for the perfect picture.

Coming around a corner near the entrance of the Sphinx Temple, the Great Sphinx and Khafre's Pyramid peeked through the ruins.
Coming around a corner near the entrance of the Sphinx Temple, the Great Sphinx and Khafre’s Pyramid peeked through the ruins.

Mohammed from Emo Tours served as our guide and site historian. He led us into the one of the sparsely populated temples where we caught a view of the Great Sphinx from below. With no other tourists around, it was a moment of solitude to really take in the experience.

View of the three main pyramids from a northwest viewpoint.
View of the three main pyramids from a northwest viewpoint.

We ended our visit at a northwestern viewpoint, looking back toward the pyramids with Cairo in the background. The blend of the ancient and modern worlds made me wonder what the pharaohs would think of all this? Did they ever imagine visitors from far away lands making a pilgrimage to this place? Or that their legacy would outlive nearly everything else from their time, to tell their story for generations to come?

If You Go

Emo Tours
Guided tours of Egypt’s top sightseeing locations and highly-rated on TripAdvisor.

Cairo at Night: The Ancient City After Dark

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Cairo's Qasr El Nil Bridge is famous for its four bronze lion statues. A pair stand guard at each end of the bridge.

For most visitors, Cairo is about pyramids, markets, museums and mosques. But after dark, the ancient city becomes a different place.

We followed Waleed, a guide with Cairo Urban Adventures (save $10 off your first Urban Adventures trip), on a four-hour trek through Downtown Cairo. Starting in the neighborhood of Dokki, we crossed the Nile River via the Qasr El Nil (translated: Palace of the Nile) Bridge, famous for its four bronze lions. The bridge lions, designed by 19th century French sculptor Alfred Jacquemart, guard in pairs at either end of the bridge. We’d previously seen Jacquemart’s work outside the Musee d’Orsay in Paris.

Sunset over the Nile River from the east end of the Qasr El Nil Bridge.
Sunset over the Nile River from the east end of the Qasr El Nil Bridge.

At the east end of the bridge, I dodged the chaotic traffic to take a photo of the fiery sunset over the river. Meanwhile, Viktoria was being approached by three Egyptian schoolgirls for a group selfie as the coral Egyptian Museum loomed in front of us.

Tahrir Square at night
Tahrir Square at night

We continued toward Tahrir Square, the flashpoint of the 2011 Egyptian Revolution and 2013 protests. January 25 was the anniversary of the 2011 revolution. Depending on our destination, we’ll often act as our own tour guide, but one of the perks of local guides is hearing local stories.

Waleed shared his own experience of the revolution; of guiding a tour group out of the city before returning to take a “neighborhood watch” shift to protect his apartment building from rioters. He told of the internal struggle of wanting to be a part of the movement to end the corrupt 30-year reign of president Hosni Mubarak while also worrying for the safety of his father, a police officer serving in the heart of the square.

Graffiti from the 2011 Egyptian Revolution along Mohamed Mahmoud Street near Tahrir Square.
Graffiti from the 2011 Egyptian Revolution along Mohamed Mahmoud Street near Tahrir Square.

Today, it’s hard to picture 300,000 people gathered in the busy roundabout, but the marks of the revolution are still visible today. Outside the American University of Cairo, a single wall of graffiti from the 2011 revolution still stands today—the rest demolished in 2015 as part of a Tahrir Square renovation project. The simple image of a child eating a baladi bread sandwich flanked by a pile of skulls tells a powerful story, especially at night.

Graffiti from the 2013 protests depict the Muslim Brotherhood along Mohamed Mahmoud Street near Tahrir Square.
Graffiti from the 2013 protests depict the Muslim Brotherhood along Mohamed Mahmoud Street near Tahrir Square.

Nearby, a more complete collection of graffiti from the 2013 protests changes the story, depicting the ire against President Mohamed Morsi and the Muslim Brotherhood in a more comic style. Waleed led us through dark side streets, describing the meaning behind the images and the messages written in Arabic.

It was time to lighten the mood, which happened literally under the bright lights of historic Talaat Harb Street. After a couple hours of walking, it was time to eat, so we headed to Abou Tarek for koshari. Viktoria had already visited on a previous tour and it was on my must-eat list. I was not disappointed. The simple, filling national dish of Egypt can be found all over the city, but Abou Tarek is king.

After dinner, it was time for dessert and the last stop of our walking tour. We went to El Abd, one of Cairo’s most famous bakeries. Outside, people queue for house-made gelato. Inside, fresh-baked semolina cakes, phyllo-dough birds’ nests and other Egyptian sweets are up for grabs. Visitors elbow, shove and shimmy their way through the small, crowded shop. I found a nice gift box to take back to my co-workers in Cascadia.

We ended the night with one last adventure; Waleed lived in a neighborhood close to ours and offered to help us navigate the intimidating Cairo Metro. He bought our tickets for the equivalent of a nickel (five cents) and we boarded the train.

As the only foreigners on the Metro, the locals met us with friendly smiles and curious stares. We made small talk with a couple of young professional footballers on our journey back to Maadi. Waleed bid us farewell a few stops before ours, ending a great night in the real Cairo.

If You Go…

[google_maps id=”9466″]

Horseback Riding at the Giza Pyramids

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View of Giza’s Great Pyramids.

I was very fortunate to be invited by my friend, co-worker and fellow Cascadian Becky to join a desert horseback ride to see the Giza Pyramids. She has been taking lessons at Cairo Horse Riding School, which has beautiful facilities in Giza.

Goat traffic on the way to the riding school on a small, country road in Giza. This is not typical of Cairo traffic at all!
Goat traffic on the way to the riding school on a small, country road in Giza. This is not typical of Cairo traffic at all!

Although the last time I rode a horse was during a childhood summer camp, I couldn’t pass up an opportunity to experience a different perspective of the pyramids. The owners of the school, Tamer and Jenny, were very friendly and patient with this beginner. Tamer stayed near me and led my horse, Sumayah, a white Arabian.

The first glimpse of the Pyramid Complex!
The first glimpse of the Pyramid Complex!
I like this picture because of the contrast of the desert on the left and the green farmland of Giza on the right.
I like this picture because of the contrast of the desert on the left and the green farmland of Giza on the right.

Especially because I’m not too keen on riding a camel due to ethical reasons, I definitely recommend the experience as an alternative way to see the villages and stables in Giza and the neighboring Great Pyramids.

Jenny, me and Becky on our Arabians with the Giza Pyramids in the background.
Jenny, me and Becky on our Arabians with the Giza Pyramids in the background.

It was a very quiet and peaceful experience. Parts of the desert felt like we were in another world or the set of “Star Wars,” which was filmed in Tunisia, not too far from here, I guess!

View of desert riders and the city of Cairo in the distance.
View of desert riders and the city of Cairo in the distance.

We saw Egyptian riders at full gallop enjoying the wide, open space of the desert. Because it is December, it wasn’t too hot, but the sun is still pretty powerful. And there was a desert wind, as the sound on my short video reminded me.

The desert "café" is a great place for riders to stop and take a rest.
The desert “café” is a great place for riders to stop and take a rest.
Tamer leading the horses to a resting spot.
Tamer leading the horses to a resting spot.

When we reached the viewpoint of the Giza Pyramids, we stopped at a tent, where a man came out to take our order for tea and cold beverages. I could get used to this view and service! And now I have seen the pyramids from the north, east and south (desert).

Me with my mint tea enjoying the view. As I get older, I’m less shy about doing new things!
Me with my mint tea enjoying the view. As I get older, I’m less shy about doing new things!
The three largest Pyramids of Giza and the three smaller ones on the left are the Pyramids of the Queens.
The three largest Pyramids of Giza and the three smaller ones on the left are the Pyramids of the Queens.

Thank you for the unforgettable experience.

Video: Horseback Riding at the Giza Pyramids

If You Go…

Cairo Horse Riding School Desert Rides

  • Giza, Egypt
  • About 2-3 hours for saddling up, riding and rest break
  • Very safety-minded, using helmets and precautions
  • Horses are very well taken care of
  • About $20 USD

Great Pyramids Sound and Light Show

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Great Pyramids Sound and Light Show

I definitely felt like a tourist when I decided to go and see the Giza Pyramids sound and light show, but I didn’t care. I am part tourist and part temporary teacher transplant. I read online that the show was a little cheesy and that is exactly what convinced me to go. With a free weekend night, I set off.

My entrance ticket outside the gate. The English show runs every night.
My entrance ticket outside the gate. The English show runs every night.

Although there are a multitude of tour companies offering to pick you up, deposit you onsite and take you back home, there is no need to book a “tour” to do this. Just arrange a taxi, driver or Uber to take you and wait out the hour-long show. Even as a foreign woman alone on a Friday night, it was fine.

I paid 135 Egyptian Pounds (about $8 USD) for a “front row” seat, but as most tourist things in Cairo, even on a weekend, it was not busy nor did I have to fight the crowds. As soon as I walked in, I saw the Sphinx in front of the outlines of the three largest pyramids. I think that was worth the ticket price alone. Although I had seen the pyramids from afar, this was my first up close and personal. And with the lack of crowds, you really do feel like you have a private audience with the pyramids.

The illuminated Sphinx, with the body of a lion and the head of a person, is quite smaller than the pyramids but still impressive.
The illuminated Sphinx, with the body of a lion and the head of a person, is quite smaller than the pyramids but still impressive.
From smallest to largest: Pyramid of Menkaure, Pyramid of Khafre and Pyramid of Khufu.
From smallest to largest: Pyramid of Menkaure, Pyramid of Khafre and Pyramid of Khufu.

Somebody corralled me and told me where the best seat was (the far right, front). I sat down and waited for the show to start. With a booming narration and moving lights, the show tells the story of how the pyramids were built and how they survived the ages. There are images projected onto stone walls as well as the Great Sphinx of Giza himself.

The Great Pyramid Complex illuminated by colored lights. If you have a tripod for your camera, bring it with you.
The Great Pyramid Complex illuminated by colored lights. If you have a tripod for your camera, bring it with you.
The Great Sphinx. Can you spot his lion paws? The Sphinx is thought to represent the Pharaoh Khafre, whose pyramid is behind the Sphinx from this view.
The Great Sphinx. Can you spot his lion paws? The Sphinx is thought to represent the Pharaoh Khafre, whose pyramid is behind the Sphinx from this view.
In this view, the Sphinx is superimposed with a mask, a nose and a false chin/beard.
In this view, the Sphinx is superimposed with a mask, a nose and a false chin/beard.

If You Go…

Great Pyramids Sound and Light Show

  • 100 EGP for regular or 135 EGP for “VIP”
  • English show every night
  • From May 1 to September 30: 7:30 p.m.
  • From October 1 to April 30: 7:00 p.m.
  • Make sure to specify the east entrance of light and sound show near the Sphinx, not the regular pyramids entrance, which is more to the north
  • Bring a jacket, it gets cool and windy at night, especially after October
  • Don’t have high expectations, it’s just for fun and snapping pictures!

Abou Tarek Koshari

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The exterior of Abou Tarek Koshary in downtown Cairo. It is the one and only location. The sign states "We have no other branches."

I was really excited to try the koshari at Abou Tarek, one of the most well-known restaurants in Cairo.

The koshary dish at Abou Tarek. This is a small portion and I had a hard time finishing it.
The koshary dish at Abou Tarek. This is a small portion and I had a hard time finishing it.

Koshari (koshary / kushari) is a typical Egyptian dish. It’s very filling and is originally a peasant/lower class food. It is still very inexpensive (think $1 USD or less) with giant portions. It has rice, macaroni and vermicelli noodles as a base with cooked lentils and chickpeas on top. On top of that is a light, red sauce and fried onions. You can also add a lemon garlic sauce and/or hot sauce. I like both. And koshari is vegan so how exciting is that?

The restaurant is located in a busy area. I took this picture from the second floor looking down at the street where these men were enjoying the national pastime of people watching.
The restaurant is located in a busy area. I took this picture from the second floor looking down at the street where these men were enjoying the national pastime of people watching.

My first koshari was delivered to my house from Zooba; the restaurant also makes a whole grain version with wheat pasta and crushed wheat that I’d like to try. I’ve also had it from the local chain Koshary El Tahrir. But the one at Abou Tarek in downtown Cairo is the best because they make everything fresh, including frying the onions. The crispy onions make it magical.

Takeout from Koshary El Tahrir. This was dinner and then breakfast the next day.
Takeout from Koshary El Tahrir. This was dinner and then breakfast the next day.

I have to admit, the ingredient list of koshari doesn’t sound that impressive, but put all together, it works. I usually have pasta, lentils and red sauce at home so it’s easy to make my own quick version.

Check out the day tours by Emo Tours. Mine included the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, Citadel with the Mosque of Muhammad Ali, the Khan el Khalili Market and a stop at Abou Tarek Koshary.

Mosque of Muhammad Ali in the Cairo Citadel

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The Mosque of Muhammad Ali at the Citadel of Cairo.

One of my city tours included the Cairo Citadel. I didn’t know much about it except that the last time I drove past it was during Eid (one of the religious holidays) and it was packed with people.

I learned that the citadel used to be the city center and was fortified/walled to keep out the Crusaders, who were trying to spread Christianity through a series of religious wars. The walled complex used to be much larger, but was split in two when a major highway was built in the middle of it.

The citadel is now just a site that includes several defunct museums and three mosques, the most prominent of which is the Mosque of Muhammad Ali. It was built by Muhammad Ali Pasha in 1848 and is not related to the American boxer who took the same name. Side note: Muhammad, Mohamed and Ahmed are very popular names here; parents name boys after the Prophet himself.

It cost about $6 (more or less depending on what the dollar is doing on a given day) to enter the whole site as a foreigner. For locals, the cost is very minimal and as a result, it’s a popular gathering place. No shoes in the courtyard or interior of the mosque, obviously, but I didn’t have to cover my head. I wore long pants and a t-shirt and had no problems. It was a worthwhile trip to see the most recognizable white alabaster mosque in the “City of a Thousand Minarets.”

Thanks Wikipedia for details about the mosque.

Check out the day tours by Emo Tours. Mine included the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, Citadel with the Mosque of Muhammad Ali, the Khan el Khalili Market and a stop at Abou Tarek Koshary.

First glimpse of the mosque as it sits on top of the city. I believe there is a Holy Quran in the driver’s car as well!
First glimpse of the mosque as it sits on top of the city. I believe there is a Holy Quran in the driver’s car as well!
Approaching the walls of the Cairo Citadel. The mosque sits at the summit of the walled city.
Approaching the walls of the Cairo Citadel. The mosque sits at the summit of the walled city.
A group of women near the mosque. Coming to the Citadel is quite a social/spiritual event, especially during holidays and holy days.
A group of women near the mosque. Coming to the Citadel is quite a social/spiritual event, especially during holidays and holy days.
The limestone exterior and iron windows. The mosque is built in the Ottoman/Turk style.
The limestone exterior and iron windows. The mosque is built in the Ottoman/Turk style.
Looking up at one of the minarets. The mosque is one of the most easily recognizable in Cairo.
Looking up at one of the minarets. The mosque is one of the most easily recognizable in Cairo.
The alabaster covered courtyard of the Mosque of Muhammad Ali.
The alabaster covered courtyard of the Mosque of Muhammad Ali.
Standing in the courtyard of the mosque and the clock tower. The clock tower was a gift from King Louis Philippe of France in 1845 and my guide said it was a bad gift because the tower didn’t have lasting power and started crumbling (see the scaffolding around it?).
Standing in the courtyard of the mosque and the clock tower. The clock tower was a gift from King Louis Philippe of France in 1845 and my guide said it was a bad gift because the tower didn’t have lasting power and started crumbling (see the scaffolding around it?).
The interior of the mosque. My guide mentioned that it is distinctive because of its red carpet. People were relaxing and hanging out. It was in between prayer times.
The interior of the mosque. My guide mentioned that it is distinctive because of its red carpet. People were relaxing and hanging out. It was in between prayer times.
The
The “minbar” of the mosque (center left) is where the prayer leader sits and leads prayer and service.
Walking out the door to views of the gardens and city of Cairo.
Walking out the door to views of the gardens and city of Cairo.
Corridor of arches along the exterior of the mosque.
Corridor of arches along the exterior of the mosque.
Views of Cairo from the top of the Citadel. Can you spot the two largest Pyramids of Giza in the haze?
Views of Cairo from the top of the Citadel. Can you spot the two largest Pyramids of Giza in the haze?
It’s me!
It’s me!
Exterior view from the gardens.
Exterior view from the gardens.
A peek of the green-domed Al-Nasir Muhammad Mosque behind Muhammad Ali.
A peek of the green-domed Al-Nasir Muhammad Mosque behind Muhammad Ali.
The crescent moon and star, symbol of Islam, sits on top of one of the white domes.
The crescent moon and star, symbol of Islam, sits on top of one of the white domes.

Cairo’s Khan el Khalili Market

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An alley of the Khan el Khalili market.

Cairo’s most famous market, also known as “souk,” has been around since the 1500s. It’s popular with tourist and Egyptian shoppers alike; though like many “tourist” places in Egypt it was pretty lacking in tourists who looked like me. Come to Egypt, one and all!

Khan (the k is not pronounced) means ruler or king. Khalili refers to Prince Jaharkas Al-Khalili.

Khan el Khalili was on my list of things to see right away. I was interested in looking at the market’s famous gold and silver jewelry. I also wanted to find a Turkish coffee pot. I did a lot of window shopping and didn’t end up buying anything, but I may have to think about making room in my suitcases for some of the unique copper lanterns. The merchants weren’t pushy and let me browse in peace for the most part!

The market is situated next to a large mosque called Al-Hussein. Next to the mosque is a row of historic coffee and tea shops, where I stopped for some mint tea and people watching. Smoking shisha/hookah (water pipes with different flavors of tobacco) is a common pastime here also. It was a busy Saturday and lots of local tourists and families were milling around, making a visit to the mosque and souk.

For my next visit, I would like to come back in the evening. Cairo seems to come alive at night.

Courtyard with Al-Hussein Mosque behind it serves as an entry point for the market.
Courtyard with Al-Hussein Mosque behind it serves as an entry point for the market.
Row of coffee shops on the way to the market. Can you spot the people smoking shisha?
Row of coffee shops on the way to the market. Can you spot the people smoking shisha?
Speaking of shisha, you can buy your own pipe to take home with you.
Speaking of shisha, you can buy your own pipe to take home with you.
The colors and designs of these small bowls are so appealing! Think they’ll survive the journey back to the U.S.?
The colors and designs of these small bowls are so appealing! Think they’ll survive the journey back to the U.S.?
The perforated copper lanterns are so romantic. I’ve got my eye on you…
The perforated copper lanterns are so romantic. I’ve got my eye on you…
More lanterns lined this wide alley.
More lanterns lined this wide alley.
Candleholders and lanterns. I’ve learned that the Hamsa is a palm-shaped design commonly used in jewelry and wall hangings.
Candleholders and lanterns. I’ve learned that the Hamsa is a palm-shaped design commonly used in jewelry and wall hangings.
Light fixtures and chandeliers.
Light fixtures and chandeliers.
This street featured the gold shops (some were closed) and street food. Do you see the flatbread vendor?
This street featured the gold shops (some were closed) and street food. Do you see the flatbread vendor?
Gold and silver street.
Gold and silver street.
The other side of the mosque. Can you see the policeman on horseback patrol? Or the woman balancing a bucket on her head?
The other side of the mosque. Can you see the policeman on horseback patrol? Or the woman balancing a bucket on her head?
Heading back into the heart of the market. The eye design on the wall is the Eye of Horus, which is a symbol for protection. I’ve seen women wearing necklaces with the shape.
Heading back into the heart of the market. The eye design on the wall is the Eye of Horus, which is a symbol for protection. I’ve seen women wearing necklaces with the shape.
Decorative beads.
Decorative beads.
T-shirts, belly dancing gear and figurines.
T-shirts, belly dancing gear and figurines.
A baladi bread seller appeared behind us with a balancing act on his head!
A baladi bread seller appeared behind us with a balancing act on his head!
Should I get a necklace with my name in Arabic?
Should I get a necklace with my name in Arabic?
Mint tea in front of Al-Hussein Mosque.
Mint tea in front of Al-Hussein Mosque.

Inside the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities

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Viktoria in front of Cairo’s Egyptian Museum.

I had a three-day weekend due to the Islamic New Year on Sunday, October 2 so I decided to take advantage of the time off and head out to the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, or the Egyptian Museum, in downtown Cairo. The coral building is easily recognizable in the famous Tahrir Square, the site of the 2011 Revolution protests.

View from the side of the museum and its gardens. Can you spot the Cairo Tower?
View from the side of the museum and its gardens. Can you spot the Cairo Tower?

I hired a guide and I’m glad I did; the museum is a jumble and maze of mostly unmarked artifacts. It’s not the most organized or clean or secure museum I’ve ever been to—thousand-year-old stuff is strewn throughout rooms with signs that essentially say, do not lean on or touch the priceless tomb/statue/carving. But people do. The concept is very culturally Egyptian—proud but lackadaisical.

Entrance ticket is about $8.50 and to take photos, $5.50.
Entrance ticket is about $8.50 and to take photos, $5.50.

What it lacks in interpretation and modernity, it makes up for in dusty coolness factor. The museum is made up of items collected from various pyramids, including the entire collection of Tutankhamun’s tomb. Wikipedia says it has more than 120,000 items, not counting the ones that were gifted to Austria and other countries.

The main hall of the ground floor. I hope nothing falls over!
The main hall of the ground floor. I hope nothing falls over!

We started on the first floor (ground floor) with the collection from the Old, Middle and New Kingdoms. First, I saw the statue of King Djoser (Zoser), who built the world’s first stone step pyramid, which I had previously visited in Saqqara. The statue was collected from his pyramid and features the life-size (small!) king with the false chin.

King Djoser.
King Djoser.

Next, we headed through the main hall to see a stone pyramid top, or the Benben stone from the Pyramid of Amenemhat III. The pyramid below it has since crumbled, but the carved capstone or tip remains.

Guide Asmaa next to the capstone carved with a phoenix bird, which is a part of an ancient creation story.
Guide Asmaa next to the capstone carved with a phoenix bird, which is a part of an ancient creation story.

At the end of the hall is a colossal statue of Amenhotep III and his wife, Tiye, grandparents of the famous Tutankhamun. This statue is significant because it’s the first time a woman was depicted as the same giant size as her husband. Notice the size of their daughters at their feet. I later saw Tiye’s eerie mummy (see a photo on Wikipedia), complete with hair in the mummy room (no pictures allowed and that’s fine by me).

Amenhotep III and Queen Tiye.
Amenhotep III and Queen Tiye.

We headed to check out the artifacts surrounding King Amenhotep IV, who was the first pharaoh who decided to worship only one God. His story was featured on Morgan Freeman’s “Story of God” series (go DVR it right now). The show features the beliefs of the ancient Egyptians and the turn to a monotheistic (one God) worship by this king. He later changed his name to Akhenaten to include the name of the God Aten, or “sun.” Unfortunately, he became somewhat of a religious tyrant and his followers scratched out his name in his coffin so that his spirit would NOT return in the afterlife. His successor returned to a polytheistic rule.

Akhenaten’s wooden coffin found in the Valley of the Kings in Luxor. Look at the middle strip of the coffin. Can you see where the cartouche, or the symbols for his name, has been scratched out?
Akhenaten’s wooden coffin found in the Valley of the Kings in Luxor. Look at the middle strip of the coffin. Can you see where the cartouche, or the symbols for his name, has been scratched out?

The second floor houses the pieces of the famous kings and more solid gold bling. Namely, all of the 5,000 things that a boy king Tutankhamun could ever want for the afterlife. We saw his gold ceremonial chair, three funerary beds (in case he wanted to bounce from bed to bed, I guess) and four shrine gold boxes that held his sarcophagus and death mask.

Click any photo in the gallery to see a larger version and start a slideshow view

Due to all of the grave robbing, precautionary measures were taken to hide the body within the layers of gold coffins. I guess it didn’t matter too much because the location of his tomb was lost, not to be found until the famous discovery in 1922.

I also saw the museum’s masterpiece, the famous gold and colored mask of King Tut with the long false chin. It is 24 lbs. of solid gold. Alas, no pictures were allowed.

I hope to return again and explore the museum more on my own.

Sakkara Pyramids

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The step Pyramid of Djoser

In the first of what I hope will be many pyramid trips, I recently joined a trip to the Sakkara (Saqqara) Pyramid complex. Although it’s not the most well-known group of pyramids, like the Great Pyramids of Giza, it has very impressive hieroglyphics inside the tombs. The trip was led by Community Services Organization, a nonprofit in Cairo designed to provide services for expats (like me!).

We first arrived at the Pyramid of Djoser. The pyramid has six limestone “steps” and is thought to be among the earliest known stone structures in the world—according to our guide Ahmed—built around 2667–2648 BC. The credit for the step design is given to Imhotep, the architect who was the right hand of the king.

It was a slow day for tourist camel rides at the Pyramid of Djoser.
It was a slow day for tourist camel rides at the Pyramid of Djoser.

The steps were thought to symbolize a stairway to heaven. The ancient Egyptians built the pyramids not only to be tombs for kings and nobles, but also to house the spirits and facilitate a happy afterlife. This included physical offerings of food and worldly possessions as well as hieroglyphics (symbols for the alphabet) and pictures telling the story of the person’s life on the walls.

A line of Uraei (cobra) with the Pyramid of Djoser behind it.
A line of Uraei (cobra) with the Pyramid of Djoser behind it.

Next, we moved through the complex of crumbling pyramids and headed underground to the tomb of the Pharaoh Unas. Although we had to climb down a very narrow tunnel, the passageway was well-lit, which helped discourage claustrophobia.

Following Ahmed down the passageway through the Pyramid of Unas.
Following Ahmed down the passageway through the Pyramid of Unas.

At the end, when it was safe to stand up straight, there was a white limestone room completely filled with hieroglyphics. A few of us gasped!

The walls and ceiling of one of the chambers of the Pyramid of Unas.
The walls and ceiling of one of the chambers of the Pyramid of Unas.
Columns of hieroglyphics in Pharaoh Unas’s funerary chamber at the Pyramid of Unas.
Columns of hieroglyphics in Pharaoh Unas’s funerary chamber at the Pyramid of Unas.

The adjoining room was the chamber for Unas’s body, which included a black sarcophagus and stars on the roof to symbolize the heavens. It’s a good thing these spirits had all these signs to tell them if they were in the right place; these pyramids are a maze! The body/mummy itself is not in the sarcophagus, it was probably looted along with the other offerings and riches in the tombs.

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After we came above ground, we went to the tomb of one of Unas’s daughters, Idut. While Unas had numerous hieroglyphics/symbols in his pyramid, Idut’s tomb had the most impressive “Pyramid Texts,” realistic pictures and murals, some still with red and black color. Different chambers of her pyramid had pictures of the Nile, offerings of food and drink and pictures of scribes.

Pyramid Texts in the tomb of Idut describe a fishing scene on the Nile. Can you spot the hippopotamus, crocodile, fish and the cow being separated from her calf?
Pyramid Texts in the tomb of Idut describe a fishing scene on the Nile. Can you spot the hippopotamus, crocodile, fish and the cow being separated from her calf?

Workers used metals and minerals like copper to make paint. Did you know that slaves were not utilized to build the pyramids? Only paid workers. The National Museum has a papyrus record with names of all the workers who were employed and their payment.

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Last, we went to Ka-Gmni’s tomb, where we couldn’t take pictures, but it had massive murals similar to Idut’s tomb, and underground to Titi’s Pyramid. We also made a stop at the Imhotep (King Djoser’s architect) Museum, which housed a mummy. It was a little too realistic!

Our guide Ahmed at the entrance to Ka-Gmni’s tomb, which also had very well preserved and ornate drawings.
Our guide Ahmed at the entrance to Ka-Gmni’s tomb, which also had very well preserved and ornate drawings.

I learned today that Egypt has anywhere from 50 to more than 100 pyramids, depending on how one defines a pyramid, still standing or fallen. I’m sure I’ll be back to learn more!

Day in Life: First Week of School

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I’m done with my first week of school! I’m teaching 8th, 9th and 10th grade. I can’t believe I have students who were born in the 2000s; where is the time going?

My schedule is keeping me on my toes. The workweek is Sunday through Thursday, which is hard to get used to. I keep saying “This is due on Friday… I mean Thursday,” and students laugh. Students are also correcting my pronunciation of names. Hana, Malak and Jana are popular girl’s names, and Mohamed, Omar and Youssef for the boys.

I thought I would do a very simple “Day in the Life” post. I will probably do a more detailed one once I get more into a routine.

6:00 a.m. Wake up, make breakfast and get ready for school.

6:30 a.m. The first week, I left home at this time to walk about 2 km to the bus stop. I love Cairo in the mornings. It’s cool, breezy and quiet. My new schedule, I will catch a bus at 6:50 a.m. in my neighborhood. The bus leaves around 7:00/7:10 a.m.

My classroom is very colorful! It will be more decorated soon. The first week I didn’t have a clock, which made me feel disorganized.
My classroom is very colorful! It will be more decorated soon. The first week I didn’t have a clock, which made me feel disorganized.

7:30ish a.m. Arrive at school. I go straight to my classroom, turn on the air conditioning and start the day.

7:55 a.m. School starts. We either have an assembly where students line up outside by homeroom or students come to homeroom right away. I have a 9th grade homeroom class.

I accidentally ordered five falafel sandwiches from the school cafeteria. All ordering is done in Arabic and hand gestures. I thought I was ordering five falafel pieces. Needless to say, it all got eaten.
I accidentally ordered five falafel sandwiches from the school cafeteria. All ordering is done in Arabic and hand gestures. I thought I was ordering five falafel pieces. Needless to say, it all got eaten.

8:15 a.m.–3:05 p.m. The school day. My schedule changes every day, but I usually teach three or four classes a day. Lunch is about 45 minutes long. I have lunch supervisory duty once a week. It is so hot midday that most students eat their lunch in the shade. Though the boys play soccer (“football”) and come to class drenched in sweat.

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3:15 p.m. Bus leaves for home. The bus ride home is an interesting time to peer out the window at the traffic and things going by.

A one-eyed cat to greet me at the door.
A one-eyed cat to greet me at the door.

3:45/4 p.m. I’m home! Thankful to have a relatively short commute there and back.

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4:00 p.m. to…? I make dinner and pass out on the couch. The first week I was in bed by 7:00 or 8:00 p.m. I haven’t had a lot of papers to grade at home yet. That will probably change once we get into the swing of things.