China

Day 22: Hong Kong

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With China in the rear-view mirror, we arrived in Hong Kong right around sunset after the second delayed flight of our trip. Our hotel is in the middle of the craziness that is HK’s Tsim Sha Tsui district.

Although we had plenty of time to get to the airport for our flight leaving Shanghai, we opted for the super-fast maglev train purely for the experience. The line is one of only two maglev trains currently in commercial operation (Japan has the other).
Although we had plenty of time to get to the airport for our flight leaving Shanghai, we opted for the super-fast maglev train purely for the experience. The line is one of only two maglev trains currently in commercial operation (Japan has the other).
Shanghai's maglev reaches a top speed of 431 km/h (268 mph), making the 30 km (18.6 miles) trip in about eight minutes. The ride was a bit bumpier than expected.
Shanghai’s maglev reaches a top speed of 431 km/h (268 mph), making the 30 km (18.6 miles) trip in about eight minutes. The ride was a bit bumpier than expected.
The view of the clouds rolling in over the mountains at Hong Kong International Airport made up for the fiasco of catching a bus to the city (honestly, who has exact change when they leave the airport?).
The view of the clouds rolling in over the mountains at Hong Kong International Airport made up for the fiasco of catching a bus to the city (honestly, who has exact change when they leave the airport?).
It's easier to find a shop selling traditional Chinese medicine in Hong Kong than it is a Western-style pharmacy. The shops also have large jars full of dried seafoods, commonly used in treatments. I'm not sure what any of these particular ones do, but we swear by Tiger Balm for everything from headaches to sore muscles to mosquito bites.
It’s easier to find a shop selling traditional Chinese medicine in Hong Kong than it is a Western-style pharmacy. The shops also have large jars full of dried seafoods, commonly used in treatments. I’m not sure what any of these particular ones do, but we swear by Tiger Balm for everything from headaches to sore muscles to mosquito bites.

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Day 21: Last Day in China

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After a day of sightseeing, we headed back to our hotel. On the sidewalk in front of a convenience store on the corner of a busy intersection, these two guys locked horns in a game of xiangqi (Chinese chess).

Throughout our trip, we were frequently stopped by students looking to fulfill a school assignment. In the French Concession, these girls asked questions about my view of Shanghai and whether the education system was better in the U.S. or China. Every exchange was recorded on video, so we'll be making an appearance in a Chinese classroom before long!
Throughout our trip, we were frequently stopped by students looking to fulfill a school assignment. In the French Concession, these girls asked questions about my view of Shanghai and whether the education system was better in the U.S. or China. Every exchange was recorded on video, so we’ll be making an appearance in a Chinese classroom before long!
The Shanghai Propaganda Poster Art Centre is hidden in the basement of a giant apartment complex, but features one of the world's best collections of Mao-era propaganda posters and 1930s
The Shanghai Propaganda Poster Art Centre is hidden in the basement of a giant apartment complex, but features one of the world’s best collections of Mao-era propaganda posters and 1930s “Shanghai Ladies” posters. Early posters took on more of an editorial cartoon style while later posters adopted the bold look associated with Soviet-era propaganda. Displayed in order by year, it also offers a visual timeline of the changes in Chinese attitudes during the 20th century.
Every afternoon, this man set up his noodle stand (a bicycle with a flatbed and propane gas tank attached) around the corner from our hostel in Shanghai. He'd make stir-fried noodles and rice until late in the evening. We stopped in twice during our stay, getting a filling meal for about $1.50 USD each.
Every afternoon, this man set up his noodle stand (a bicycle with a flatbed and propane gas tank attached) around the corner from our hostel in Shanghai. He’d make stir-fried noodles and rice until late in the evening. We stopped in twice during our stay, getting a filling meal for about $1.50 USD each.
On our last night in the city, we were able to meet up with two of our travel buddies from our India/Nepal trip who are teaching English in Shanghai. It also highlighted how reliant we've become on internet access... All of our planning had been done via Facebook or Gmail, both of which are blocked in China. We finally found a way to touch base at the last second.
On our last night in the city, we were able to meet up with two of our travel buddies from our India/Nepal trip who are teaching English in Shanghai. It also highlighted how reliant we’ve become on internet access… All of our planning had been done via Facebook or Gmail, both of which are blocked in China. We finally found a way to touch base at the last second.

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Day 20: Shanghai

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The umbrella-lined path at Shanghai’s People’s Park is a real-life Match.com. Every weekend, the Shanghai Marriage Market draws the parents of unmarried men and women looking for a suitable match for their child. In an ever-changing China, the market is one way traditional family involvement in the matchmaking process is being preserved. China is also facing a gender gap due to the so-called “one child policy.” By 2020, studies project China will have 24 million unmarried men unable to find a female partner.

At Shanghai Museum, a young artist sketches on of the Qing-era bowls on display.
At Shanghai Museum, a young artist sketches on of the Qing-era bowls on display.
A dragon head watches over the collection in Shanghai Museum's Chinese Minority Nationalities' Art Gallery. Artifacts from Tibet, Mongolia and others show another side of China's past.
A dragon head watches over the collection in Shanghai Museum’s Chinese Minority Nationalities’ Art Gallery. Artifacts from Tibet, Mongolia and others show another side of China’s past.
The sign for fast-food chain Real Kungfu features a very Bruce Lee-looking character. Maybe their motto should be
The sign for fast-food chain Real Kungfu features a very Bruce Lee-looking character. Maybe their motto should be “Punch when you have to punch. Kick when you have to kick. Eat when you have to eat.”
On our first morning in Shanghai after a rough overnight train from Xi'an, I stumbled on this street market down an alley near our hotel. The narrow market sells fresh fruits and vegetables in the morning while food stalls begin to pop up later in the day. By the third day, the lady with the kung pao tofu was serving it up before I even asked.
On our first morning in Shanghai after a rough overnight train from Xi’an, I stumbled on this street market down an alley near our hotel. The narrow market sells fresh fruits and vegetables in the morning while food stalls begin to pop up later in the day. By the third day, the lady with the kung pao tofu was serving it up before I even asked.
The red chili pepper is a major component of Sichuan-style cuisine. The local market had no shortage of this key ingredient.
The red chili pepper is a major component of Sichuan-style cuisine. The local market had no shortage of this key ingredient.
The market was the real-deal, selling live eels, frogs and turtles. Upon completion of the customer's order, this vendor killed and cleaned the bullfrogs right in the street.
The market was the real-deal, selling live eels, frogs and turtles. Upon completion of the customer’s order, this vendor killed and cleaned the bullfrogs right in the street.

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Day 19: Shanghai Nights

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After three days in the mountains of eastern China, the final night of our North China Getaway tour brought us back to Shanghai. Our group headed into Pudong—Shanghai’s skyscraper district—to see the skyline at night, highlighted by the dazzling light display of the Oriental Pearl Tower.

Three behemoths of the Shanghai Skyline. At left, the World Financial Center houses the world's second-highest hotel. In the center, Jin Mao Tower was once China's tallest building. At right, China's current champion is Shanghai Tower, the world's second-tallest building.
Three behemoths of the Shanghai Skyline. At left, the World Financial Center houses the world’s second-highest hotel. In the center, Jin Mao Tower was once China’s tallest building. At right, China’s current champion is Shanghai Tower, the world’s second-tallest building.

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Day 18: Hongcun Village

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After the epic day of hiking on Huangshan, a day wandering the tranquil-ish village of Hongcun was a welcome break. Along with neighboring Xidi, it was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000 as a preserved look at rural Chinese life dating back to the 14th century. The village’s appearance is still so authentic that it was used as the backdrop for the international blockbuster Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon, set in 19th century China.

Other than the scooter speeding down the cobblestone alley, it's easy to imagine life in feudal China as we wandered the streets of Hongcun. The duck wandered in from nearby South Lake, undeterred by the possibilities of becoming someone's dinner.
Other than the scooter speeding down the cobblestone alley, it’s easy to imagine life in feudal China as we wandered the streets of Hongcun. The duck wandered in from nearby South Lake, undeterred by the possibilities of becoming someone’s dinner.
Many generations of the Wang family have lived in the village and the family temple overlooks the Crescent Moon Pond, but this scene is more famous thanks to its inclusion in the movie Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon. Also a fine example of the photobombing skills of our tour guide, Jason.
Many generations of the Wang family have lived in the village and the family temple overlooks the Crescent Moon Pond, but this scene is more famous thanks to its inclusion in the movie Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon. Also a fine example of the photobombing skills of our tour guide, Jason.
Founded by the family of a Han Dynasty general, the village thrived thanks to the merchant trade. That trade continues today as villagers create art and food for the throngs of tourists who visit each day. This shop topped its simple fried tofu with different blends of spicy pepper relish—equal parts fiery and delicious.
Founded by the family of a Han Dynasty general, the village thrived thanks to the merchant trade. That trade continues today as villagers create art and food for the throngs of tourists who visit each day. This shop topped its simple fried tofu with different blends of spicy pepper relish—equal parts fiery and delicious.
Nothing like a frozen treat on a hot and humid Chinese summer day. Viktoria snapped this photo of her pineapple pop as I caught the eye of the lady entering the background. She was really getting a kick out of the level of artistry going into the ice-sucker selfie.
Nothing like a frozen treat on a hot and humid Chinese summer day. Viktoria snapped this photo of her pineapple pop as I caught the eye of the lady entering the background. She was really getting a kick out of the level of artistry going into the ice-sucker selfie.
The angles, lighting and colors of the ancient village were a major draw for artists, many of whom lined the banks of South Lake to capture the reflection of Picturesque Bridge in the still waters.
The angles, lighting and colors of the ancient village were a major draw for artists, many of whom lined the banks of South Lake to capture the reflection of Picturesque Bridge in the still waters.

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Day 17: Huangshan

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Asia boasts some of the world’s most famous mountains, but China’s Huangshan (Yellow Mountains) remain a bit of a secret outside the country despite its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. One Chinese visitor even asked a member of our group how we learned about Huangshan, surprised to see foreigners mixed into the summer holiday crowd.

Our visit coincided with the end of the rainy season. The floating fog and mist is part of what makes Huangshan such a sight to behold, but the rainy weather made clear views of its twisted peaks a rarity.
Our visit coincided with the end of the rainy season. The floating fog and mist is part of what makes Huangshan such a sight to behold, but the rainy weather made clear views of its twisted peaks a rarity.
There are two ways up for tourists—a cable car ride or a 7.5 km hike—but for the supply guys, the only option is carrying it up the old-fashioned way. The prices at the top reflect the labor.
There are two ways up for tourists—a cable car ride or a 7.5 km hike—but for the supply guys, the only option is carrying it up the old-fashioned way. The prices at the top reflect the labor.

  

On the 1,000 meter hike from the bus station to Lotus Flower Peak, we logged more than 17,000 steps--the first 5,000 of which were straight up steep steps.
On the 1,000 meter hike from the bus station to Lotus Flower Peak, we logged more than 17,000 steps–the first 5,000 of which were straight up steep steps.
At Bright Summit Peak, lovers tie padlocks to the railing and toss the key into the valley below, ensuring an eternal bond.
At Bright Summit Peak, lovers tie padlocks to the railing and toss the key into the valley below, ensuring an eternal bond.
Hiking with a few thousand of our new Chinese friends. Especially crowded due to the summer school break, we walked much of the 14 km queued up behind the masses.
Hiking with a few thousand of our new Chinese friends. Especially crowded due to the summer school break, we walked much of the 14 km queued up behind the masses.

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Day 16: On The Road

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One of the downsides of traveling is that you have to actually travel. Most of the 16th day of our trip was spent on a bus from Shanghai to Huangshan. Fortunately the bus was comfortable and we were loaded up with snacks from an international grocery store in Shanghai, making the nearly seven-hour trip bearable. This was the day’s only photo!

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Day 15: Shanghai

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Shanghai’s skyline is a symbol of the changes in China. Constructed entirely over the past 35 years, it’s been featured in numerous films and is home to the second-largest building in the world, the Shanghai Tower. We’ll be back in Shanghai in a few days for a longer stay.

The Yuyuan Gardens in Shanghai's Old Town combines traditional Chinese architecture with feng shui principles. Outside, we were bombarded by local vendors.
The Yuyuan Gardens in Shanghai’s Old Town combines traditional Chinese architecture with feng shui principles. Outside, we were bombarded by local vendors.
The garden was originally constructed during the Ming Dynasty, beginning in 1559. It took 18 years for the garden to come to maturity and be considered complete. The garden was heavily damaged during the Opium Wars in the mid 1800s, but has once again been restored to its original state.
The garden was originally constructed during the Ming Dynasty, beginning in 1559. It took 18 years for the garden to come to maturity and be considered complete. The garden was heavily damaged during the Opium Wars in the mid 1800s, but has once again been restored to its original state.
A nice photo taken by some fellow tourists...
A nice photo taken by some fellow tourists…
... And a reciprocal act of kindness.
… And a reciprocal act of kindness.

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Day 14: Terracotta Warriors

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When we started looking at our China travel options, I had two requirements: the Great Wall and the Terracotta Warriors. Both requirements have now been satisfied!

The terracotta army of Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor of China's first dynasty. He ordered the construction of the army during the third century B.C. to protect his tomb in the afterlife, but three years after his death, his empire was overthrown. The warriors were heavily damaged in the revolt and buried later as the wooden support beams rotted away. The army was rediscovered in 1974 by farmers who were digging a well.
The terracotta army of Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor of China’s first dynasty. He ordered the construction of the army during the third century B.C. to protect his tomb in the afterlife, but three years after his death, his empire was overthrown. The warriors were heavily damaged in the revolt and buried later as the wooden support beams rotted away. The army was rediscovered in 1974 by farmers who were digging a well.
Qin's terracotta army was created in the same manner as a human army, complete with generals, infantry, horse-drawn chariots and social structures. Each warrior was dressed in bronze and leather, and held different weapons. The bronze swords were still sharp enough to cut paper when they were rediscovered thanks to a chrome-plating method that died with the empire and would not be re-invented for another two millennia.
Qin’s terracotta army was created in the same manner as a human army, complete with generals, infantry, horse-drawn chariots and social structures. Each warrior was dressed in bronze and leather, and held different weapons. The bronze swords were still sharp enough to cut paper when they were rediscovered thanks to a chrome-plating method that died with the empire and would not be re-invented for another two millennia.
Qin's tomb was discovered two kilometers to the west of the army in a man made mound of earth the size of a small town. It's surrounded by rivers of mercury and the gas is so toxic that it has not yet been exhumed. His army faces east to draw life from the rising sun.
Qin’s tomb was discovered two kilometers to the west of the army in a man made mound of earth the size of a small town. It’s surrounded by rivers of mercury and the gas is so toxic that it has not yet been exhumed. His army faces east to draw life from the rising sun.

   

The faces and bodies of each soldier in the army is unique. They were constructed using extra-strong local clay that could be fired at twice the temperature of clays imported from Beijing. The resulting soldiers weigh between 200-300 lbs. each. Archeologists are still piecing together the soldiers and have restored around 2,000 of the 6,000-plus member army.
The faces and bodies of each soldier in the army is unique. They were constructed using extra-strong local clay that could be fired at twice the temperature of clays imported from Beijing. The resulting soldiers weigh between 200-300 lbs. each. Archeologists are still piecing together the soldiers and have restored around 2,000 of the 6,000-plus member army.
 

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Day 12: Beijing Bonus Day

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After a long day on the Great Wall, we returned to Beijing with a few hours to spare before the train to Xi’an. Our original plans were disrupted by the busy Saturday afternoon subway delays and we instead found ourselves at Wangfujing Snack Street, famous for its skewers of live insects.

A portion of the Ming City Wall in Beijing. Part of the city's defenses, the wall was 15 miles long, however all but 1.2 miles were destroyed to build new highways and subway lines. Construction also diverted us after a few steps and we found ourselves in a decidedly non-tourist maze of local alleyways, where we followed a group of locals past shops and restaurants back to the main road.
A portion of the Ming City Wall in Beijing. Part of the city’s defenses, the wall was 15 miles long, however all but 1.2 miles were destroyed to build new highways and subway lines. Construction also diverted us after a few steps and we found ourselves in a decidedly non-tourist maze of local alleyways, where we followed a group of locals past shops and restaurants back to the main road.

 

Looking in the window of our overnight train from Beijing to Xi'an. It was surprisingly comfortable and we were gently awakened around 7 a.m. by the piped-in traditional Chinese music. A rider accompanying his elderly mother woke us about an hour before that with three hours of nonstop conversation in the aisle.
Looking in the window of our overnight train from Beijing to Xi’an. It was surprisingly comfortable and we were gently awakened around 7 a.m. by the piped-in traditional Chinese music. A rider accompanying his elderly mother woke us about an hour before that with three hours of nonstop conversation in the aisle.

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