Thailand

A view of Mu Ko Ang Thong National Marine Park in the Gulf of Thailand

After two weeks of adventuring through India and Nepal, we were ready for a little rest and relaxation. We spent the next two weeks meandering about Thailand, including a week of hanging out on the amazing beaches on the island of Koh Samui. The story of our travels through Thailand are best told through photos, so please enjoy a snapshot of the beautiful Kingdom of Thailand.

Relaxing in a cove near Lamai Beach on the east coast of Koh Samui
Relaxing in a cove near Lamai Beach on the east coast of Koh Samui

Buddhist statues outside Wat Lamai. The temple is home to a folklore museum  with artifacts from Samui's history.
Buddhist statues outside Wat Lamai. The temple is home to a folklore museum with artifacts from Samui’s history.

One of the waterfalls at Na Muang on the mountain in the center of Koh Samui
One of the waterfalls at Na Muang on the mountain in the center of Koh Samui

This rock is called the Hin Ta or Grandfather Rock. Can you guess why?! There's a Grandmother Rock equivalent. Tourists flock to take very inappropriate photos with this rock. Google it...
This rock is called the Hin Ta or Grandfather Rock. Can you guess why?! There’s a Grandmother Rock equivalent. Tourists flock to take very inappropriate photos with this rock. Google it…

Eating coconut ice cream made from actual coconut served in a coconut shell near Hin Ta on Lamai Beach
Eating coconut ice cream made from actual coconut served in a coconut shell near Hin Ta on Lamai Beach

Authentic phat thai (noodles) and curry. Eating local food is one of our favorite things about traveling.
Authentic phat thai (noodles) and curry. Eating local food is one of our favorite things about traveling.

A produce stand selling durian. Durian is a popular fruit in Thailand. It smells and tastes like trash. Literally, like garbage.
A produce stand selling durian. Durian is a popular fruit in Thailand. It smells and tastes like trash. Literally, like garbage.

Fisherman's Village in the Bo Phut area on the northern side of Koh Samui. Lots of hotels, food and souvenirs.
Fisherman’s Village in the Bo Phut area on the northern side of Koh Samui. Lots of hotels, food and souvenirs.

Finally some authentic street food! Egg roll and a fried rice ball in Fisherman's Village.
Finally some authentic street food! Egg roll and a fried rice ball in Fisherman’s Village.

A beach vendor selling bird wind chimes in Bo Phut
A beach vendor selling bird wind chimes in Bo Phut

Looking out at the tour boat that took us out to Mu Ko Ang Thong National Marine Park. The park is made up of 42 small islands.
Looking out at the tour boat that took us out to Mu Ko Ang Thong National Marine Park. The park is made up of 42 small islands.

Parts of the Leonardo Di Caprio movie "The Beach" were filmed in Ang Thong. Emerald Lake on Talay Nai played the role of "Blue Lagoon" in the movie.
Parts of the Leonardo Di Caprio movie “The Beach” were filmed in Ang Thong. Emerald Lake on Talay Nai played the role of “Blue Lagoon” in the movie.

Our home away from home for a couple nights. Ko Wua Talap on Ang Thong is packed with tourists during the day, but at night, there were just a handful of campers.
Our home away from home for a couple nights. Ko Wua Talap on Ang Thong is packed with tourists during the day, but at night, there were just a handful of campers.

The trees around our campsite were full of langur monkeys. You could hear them swinging in the trees all day and night.
The trees around our campsite were full of langur monkeys. You could hear them swinging in the trees all day and night.

Getting ready to head back to Koh Samui
Getting ready to head back to Koh Samui

On the Thai mainland, we did a homestay in Khiriwong Village, a quiet village near Khao Luang National Park outside Nakhon Si Thammarat.
On the Thai mainland, we did a homestay in Khiriwong Village, a quiet village near Khao Luang National Park outside Nakhon Si Thammarat.

On our second day in Khiriwong Village, we hired a local guide to take us hiking in the mountains. We did a homestay at his home where he'd built a couple small huts for guests.
On our second day in Khiriwong Village, we hired a local guide to take us hiking in the mountains. We did a homestay at his home where he’d built a couple small huts for guests.

After lunch, our guide took an hour-long nap near the waterfall. It was a little awkward...
After lunch, our guide took an hour-long nap near the waterfall. It was a little awkward…

In Bangkok, we visited Chatuchak Weekend Market, one of the world's largest weekend markets. Dinner included fresh mango, phat thai, egg rolls and fried quail eggs.
In Bangkok, we visited Chatuchak Weekend Market, one of the world’s largest weekend markets. Dinner included fresh mango, phat thai, egg rolls and fried quail eggs.

Food vendors lined the road by the main gate of Chatuchak Weekend Market
Food vendors lined the road by the main gate of Chatuchak Weekend Market

At Wat Pho, we visited the giant reclining Buddha. It's 50 feet tall and 150 feet long.
At Wat Pho, we visited the giant reclining Buddha. It’s 50 feet tall and 150 feet long.

The full length view of the reclining Buddha
The full length view of the reclining Buddha

A statue garden in Wat Pho showed the various positions of Thai-style yoga. Each pose targets a specific ailment.
A statue garden in Wat Pho showed the various positions of Thai-style yoga. Each pose targets a specific ailment.

We did a food tour of Bangkok's Old City and saw some things off the beaten tourist track, including the fresh produce at Trok Mor Morning Market
We did a food tour of Bangkok’s Old City and saw some things off the beaten tourist track, including the fresh produce at Trok Mor Morning Market

Sao Ching Cha, or the Giant Swing, was used in religious cermonies from the 1700s to the early 1900s. Participants would swing and try to grab a bag of coins off a pillar. The swing itself was removed in 1935 after several fatalities.
Sao Ching Cha, or the Giant Swing, was used in religious cermonies from the 1700s to the early 1900s. Participants would swing and try to grab a bag of coins off a pillar. The swing itself was removed in 1935 after several fatalities.

Our guide Chin runs Chili Paste Tours. If you're in Bangkok, it's a great way to taste some real Thai food and get away from the other tourists for a bit.
Our guide Chin runs Chili Paste Tours. If you’re in Bangkok, it’s a great way to taste some real Thai food and get away from the other tourists for a bit.

Bangkok's Nuttaporn has been making fresh coconut milk ice cream the old fashioned way for more than 60 years.
Bangkok’s Nuttaporn has been making fresh coconut milk ice cream the old fashioned way for more than 60 years.

Outside the Bangkok's famous Pak Khlong Talat flower market, vendors load a took-tuk full of chili peppers
Outside the Bangkok’s famous Pak Khlong Talat flower market, vendors load a took-tuk full of chili peppers

... unfortunately, they loaded it a little too full and the bags all tumbled out. It drew quite a crowd of locals.
… unfortunately, they loaded it a little too full and the bags all tumbled out. It drew quite a crowd of locals.

The iconic Wat Arun temple at night
The iconic Wat Arun temple at night

May Kaidee makes authentic Thai food that is completely vegetarian and teaches cooking classes at her restaurant in the Khao San area of Bangkok
May Kaidee makes authentic Thai food that is completely vegetarian and teaches cooking classes at her restaurant in the Khao San area of Bangkok

A statue of King Rama VI outside Lumpini Park, Bangkok's first public park established in the 1920s.
A statue of King Rama VI outside Lumpini Park, Bangkok’s first public park established in the 1920s.
A mirror selfie (melfie?) on the last day of our 33 day, three country adventure
A mirror selfie (melfie?) on the last day of our 33 day, three country adventure

Baba Ganoush and Kuromame Hummus

Kuromame Hummus

I’ve been on a Middle Eastern food kick lately. I found myself longing for one of our favorite restaurants back home and I must’ve had it bad, because it informed half of our meals this week. Happy. Healthy. Life. posted a recipe for Curry Chickpea Cool Cucumber Wraps last week and the tahini cucumber salad reminded me of an impulse purchase I made a few weeks back.

I’d been on a passive search for tahini, but finally decided to look up the Japanese word for it. For those not in the tahini fan club, it’s a paste made from sesame seeds. It’s kinda bitter on its own, but is the primary flavor in hummus and baba ganoush.

Nerigoma
Behold the power of sesame paste! NERIGOMA!

Anyway, with Japan’s status as one of the world’s largest importers of sesame seeds, it seemed like tahini should be on the shelves. Turned out it is and with its very own Japanese name: nerigoma (練りごま). There were two options: the standard light-colored paste and (my impulse buy) a jar of black sesame seed paste. I justified this purchase by telling myself that, since dark-colored foods are good for you (it’s a real thing), I’d be doing a disservice NOT buying it.

But what to do with it… ? I usually make hummus with garbanzo beans, but the idea to use the prevalent-in-Japan black soybeans (kuromame) popped into my head. Mix in the black nerigoma and we’re in superfood heaven!

By the time I finally got around to making this, the local gardens were starting to sell the fruits of their labor and one had a bag of Japanese eggplants for 100 yen. Black hummus… baba ganoush… maybe make some falafels… did I put too much thought into a single meal? Perhaps…

Roasted eggplants
While a delicious meal, admittedly, it’s not the most photogenic meal.

Usually bana ganoush and hummus have a lot of olive oil. I chose to omit those from my recipes since they add a LOT of extra calories. Frankly, I didn’t miss them. This was easily the simplest and best batch of baba ganoush I’ve ever made and the hummus is unique in a good way.

Japanese substitutions:

  • I used Japanese eggplants, which are skinnier than your standard eggplant. They’re fairly easy to find in the U.S. nowadays and I think they work better for baba than your usual eggplant.
  • I used nerigoma, but it’s roughly the same as tahini. The seeds used for nerigoma are toasted, which gives it a slightly different flavor, but tahini will probably be easier to find.
  • Baba ganoush usually uses lemon juice, but I used a mix of lime juice and rice vinegar instead. This was just because I had those things in the fridge and hadn’t bought any lemons. I really like what it did to the flavor.
  • The black soybeans were really dry, but I didn’t want to add copious amounts of oil and also didn’t want to neutralize the flavor with water, so I added the miso liquid to stay with the Japanese theme. You could use oil or add vegetable broth to get the consistency right.

Tip: If using a blender, I suggest adding the wet ingredients to the jar first. It seems to help the beans work their way down to the blades.

Baba Ganoush

Ingredients

3-4 Japanese eggplants
2 tbsp sesame paste (tahini or nerigoma)
3 garlic gloves
1 tbsp lime juice
1 tbsp rice vinegar
1 tsp cumin
1/2 tsp sea salt
flat-leaf parsley for garnish

Prep

  1. Puncture the eggplants several times with a fork.
  2. Put the eggplants under your oven’s broiler until the skin begins to blister and turn black, then flip and repeat on the other side. This takes anywhere from 7-10 minutes. The skin should be charred and the inside of the eggplant should be soft.
  3. Set aside to cool.
  4. While the eggplants are cooling, peel the garlic, chop the parsley and set up your blender or food processor.

Cook

  1. Peel the eggplants. The best way I’ve found is to slice the eggplant down the middle, then take the flat edge of a knife and scrap the flesh off the skin. Make sure the skin is completely removed as the texture can be unpleasant.
  2. Put the eggplant flesh in the blender. Add the garlic cloves, sesame paste, lime juice, rice vinegar, cumin and salt.
  3. Blend until smooth.
  4. Chill for at least an hour before serving. Serve with fresh parsley garnished on top. You may also choose to drizzle olive oil on the top for added richness.

Kuromame Hummus

Ingredients

1/2 cup black soybeans
3 garlic cloves
2 tbsp black sesame paste (tahini or nerigoma)
juice from 1/2 medium lemon (about 2 tbsp)
1 tsp miso paste mixed with 1/3 cup water
1 tsp cumin
1/2 tsp sea salt

Kuromame Hummus Prep

  1. If you’re using dried soybeans, soak them overnight. Then put in a saucepan, cover with 1-2 inches of water and bring to a boil. Turn down to a simmer and cook until they reach the soft side of tender.
  2. Set up your blender or food processor.

Kuromame Hummus Cook

  1. Add the garlic, sesame paste, lemon juice and a couple tablespoons of the miso liquid to the blender.
  2. Add the soybeans, cumin and salt.
  3. Blend until smooth. Add miso liquid 1 tablespoon at a time if the mixture is too dry until it reaches the desired consistency.
  4. Chill for at least an hour before serving. Like the baba ganoush, you may choose to add extra virgin olive oil prior to serving.

Itadakimasu!

Spicy Kabocha Coconut Soup

Spicy Kabocha Soup

We had some friends over the other day and played a “How well do you know ______?” game. We had 10 questions and each person had to answer for the other people in the room. One of the questions was “What is ______’s favorite food?” One of the people guessed “soup” for me. While the correct answer is “pizza,” I do enjoy a good soup.

When I shared the Mapo Tofu recipe a few weeks ago, I invited folks to offer up their favorite recipes and I’d take a stab at making them with vegetarian ingredients.

Cascadian Pugs sent me a recipe for Thai Coconut Soup. The original recipe came from St. Innocent Winery, a beautiful vineyard west of Salem, OR. With the exception of the chicken stock, the recipe was already vegetarian, but I tweaked it to utilize some of Japan’s local ingredients.

For example, the original recipe called for butternut squash, which I replaced with kabocha (Japanese pumpkin). Kabocha can be found in the U.S. (quite readily in Oregon) and are small-ish, green winter squash. They’re naturally sweet and make a great snack all by themselves when cooked. I also substituted the cayenne pepper for seven-spice chili powder (shichimi), which adds some unique flavors like orange peel and nori (dried seaweed) to the mix.

This turned out fantastic! I halved the original recipe, only because I didn’t know how to convert the original 2.5 lbs. of butternut squash to grams at the grocery store. 🙂 This batch yielded two thick, hearty servings. If you like your soup a bit more “soupy,” you could stretch this to four servings by streaming in additional broth during the blending process to get the desired texture. Enjoy!

Spicy Kabocha Coconut Soup

Ingredients
Prepared ingredients

Ingredients

1 tbsp olive oil
1.25 pounds Kabocha Pumpkin, peeled, seeded, and cut into chunks
1/2 diced large yellow sweet onion
3 cloves garlic
2 tbsp minced fresh peeled ginger
1/2 teaspoon shichimi (seven-spice chili powder) or cayenne pepper
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon curry powder
1 cup vegetable stock (or vegetarian chicken stock)
1/2 13.5 ounce can coconut milk
Toasted pumpkin seeds for garnish – chopped

Prep

  1. Chop and set aside. You can combine some ingredients in the same container:
    • Onion
    • Kabocha
    • Garlic and ginger
  2. Measure and set aside:
    • Shichimi
    • Sea salt and curry powder
    • Vegetable stock
Cook
Stages in the cooking process.

Cook

  1. In a large skillet or stock pot, heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil over medium heat.
  2. Add onions and cook for about two minutes until they begin to soften.
  3. Add the garlic and ginger. Cook and stir until the onions turn translucent.
  4. Add shichimi and 1/4 cup of the stock. Stir and bring to a boil.
  5. Stir in the kabocha, salt and curry powder. Cook for about 10 minutes, stirring every couple minutes.
  6. Add the rest of the stock and increase the heat to medium-high. Cover and bring to a boil.
  7. Lower the heat to medium-low and simmer for 20 minutes. Stir every five minutes, mashing the mixture each time until smooth.
  8. Add the coconut milk and simmer for another 10 minutes.
  9. Remove from heat and add to a blender, or use a stick blender, to puree the soup until smooth.
  10. Reheat and season with salt.
  11. Garnish with toasted pumpkin seeds.

Naan makes a nice side to this or, to add additional protein, you can cube firm tofu and serve the soup over the tofu. This recipe is also great cold, perfect for a summer meal.