Craft Beer

Beervana: Oregon Craft Beer Tours

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Buoy Beer Company IPA on Cannon Beach with Haystack Rock in the background.

If you’ve followed Cascadian Abroad for the last couple years, you know we missed our Oregon craft beers during our time overseas. We did our best to fill the gap. We explored Japan’s growing ji-biru scene. We visited Prague with its world-class Pilsner and London, where IPAs, porters and stouts reign supreme. We bellied up to the bar in Brussels where wild yeast defines most styles. We even stumbled on two separate craft brewpubs in the hutongs of Beijing.

Yet, I can honestly say nothing tops the creativity and quality found here in Cascadia where the process is just as important as the product. Homebrewers with a dream have started some of the Pacific Northwest’s most successful small breweries. Obsessive detail is paid to everything from the ingredients used to the origin of barrels and other materials used in the brewing process.

Living the good life on the Oregon Coast with Bend, Ore.'s GoodLife Descender IPA.
Living the good life on the Oregon Coast with Bend, Ore.’s GoodLife Descender IPA.

Over the past month, we’ve revisited a few of our favorite places, tried a few new breweries and have even been treated to some unexpected tours. Here’s a small sample of some of the best Oregon has to offer.

Santiam Brewing

Salem’s Santiam Brewing started with a group of buddies experimenting in a small room in the back of an industrial park. Four years later, they’ve taken over most of the park, opened a large tasting room and are in the process of expanding even more.

We visited on the one day a month co-founder Matt Killikelly happened to be behind the bar and were treated to a tour of the operation. It’s a beautiful harmony of professional brewing and DIY ingenuity. Gleaming stainless steel fermenters fill one room while the large storage cooler—hand-built by staff—takes up another. Original equipment made from picnic coolers and fish tank parts now sit in the warehouse like museum artifacts.

Santiam—named for the North Santiam River that provides the brewery’s pristine water source—now has an impressive barrel-aging warehouse. Rum barrels from Jamaica give the amazing Pirate Stout its distinct sweet flavor. Other beers are aged in Tennessee whiskey barrels while Santiam’s new line of sours with their strains of wild yeast are tucked away in the back.

Must-try: Pirate Rum Barrel Aged Coconut Stout, Ecotopia IPA

Rogue Farms

Rogue Ales and Spirits is one of Oregon’s most successful craft breweries. Its flagship beers have wide distribution (we easily found bottles in Japan), but the real spirit of Rogue can only be found close to home.

Click any photo in the gallery to see a larger version and start a slideshow view

Nestled along the banks of the Willamette River in tiny Independence, Ore., Rogue Farms is the core of the brewing operation. The long road to the tasting room is lined by acres of proprietary hops with names like Rebel, Freedom and Newport. Further in, groves of hazelnut trees, jalapeño plants, marionberries and pumpkins appear. Bee hives sit in the fields.

All of these are used as ingredients in Rogue’s specialty beers, brewed about an hour away on the Oregon Coast. We visited the farm on a beautiful sunny day in the middle of the week and enjoyed their farm-special IPAs at the picnic tables that surround a grassy square filled with lawn games.

While we played bean bag toss, two farm employees approached and asked if we’d be interested in a tour. The guide was a trainee and encouraged us to ask a lot of questions. We learned about the history of the farm, which has been growing hops since the 1860s, and walked through the hop processing facilities. We met the pet pigs, Voo and Doo, named for Rogue’s partnership with Portland’s Voodoo Doughnuts.

We left with a bottle of Rogue’s latest collaboration, the Cold Brew IPA featuring 200 gallons of Portland’s Stumptown Coffee Roasters Cold Brew Coffee.

Must-try: 7-Hop and 8-Hop IPAs, Chipotle Ale. Many of the taps are farm-only offerings, so sample the seasonals!

Around Oregon

Oregon’s Willamette Valley has earned international acclaim for its pinot noir grapes, but the prime agriculture land also yields excellent aromatic hops and resilient rye that can be found in the numerous IPAs, red ales and more in Oregon’s 220-plus breweries. Here’s a few off-the-path breweries not far from I-5.

The spring tap list at Deception Brewing in Dundee, Ore.
The spring tap list at Deception Brewing in Dundee, Ore.

Deception Brewing, Dundee: The small town of Dundee has exploded in the past decade thanks to several vineyards in the hills above Highway 99W. Deception is a nano-brewery offering a break for wine-soaked tourists. The small taproom features 10 of the latest brews. Try the award-winning Apricot Cream Ale or the 80 Shilling Scottish Ale.

The spring tap list at Grain Station Brew Works in McMinnville, Ore.
The spring tap list at Grain Station Brew Works in McMinnville, Ore.

Grain Station Brew Works, McMinnville: Sharing space with a coffee roaster in a restored barn, Grain Station embodies the agricultural spirit of its hometown. In addition to seven flagship beers, a handful of seasonals are available on draught and a large food menu draws in the locals. Try the unfiltered Sprout Hefeweizen, CDA-esque Hank’s Dark Ale or the complex Barnstormer Double Red.

Enjoying the Redside Prophet Imperial Red Ale and Proxima IPA on the patio at Hop Valley Brewing Company in Eugene, Ore.
Enjoying the Redside Prophet Imperial Red Ale and Proxima IPA on the patio at Hop Valley Brewing Company in Eugene, Ore.

Hop Valley Brewing, Eugene: Located on the outskirts of downtown Eugene, Hop Valley’s taproom will be packed with local beerphiles any night of the week. Thanks to a growing on-site bottling/canning process, Hop Valley beers are now available in retail around the Northwest, but getting seasonal choices fresh at the brewery is the way to go. My favorite is the VIP Vanilla Porter, but also try the Proxima IPA and Redside Prophet Imperial Red Ale.

For more reviews, check out the Cascadian Abroad Beer Journal featuring craft beers from around the world.

If You Go

Santiam Brewing
2544 19th St SE, Salem. See website for tasting room hours.

Rogue Farms
3590 Wigrich Rd, Independence. See website for tasting room hours.

Deception Brewing
1174 OR-99W, Dundee. See website for taproom hours.

Grain Station Brew Works
755 NE Alpine Ave, McMinnville. See website for brewpub hours.

Hop Valley Brewing
990 W 1st Ave, Eugene. See website for tasting room hours.

Free Beer!

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My collection of Japanese craft beer from the BeerTengoku free beer contest.

Last month, the guys over at BeerTengoku ran a contest offering free Japanese craft beer for simply connecting with them via the blog and various social media sites. Much to my surprise, I received an e-mail last week letting me know I was the winner of the contest!

BeerTengoku is easily the go-to English-language site for the burgeoning craft beer scene in Japan. It’s run by ex-pats who noticed the lack of information available in English and they’ve filled the gap admirably, featuring beer reviews, interviews with craft brewers and details about events all over the country.

My prize arrived last night and featured a great selection of six beers from breweries all over Japan. Once they’ve been enjoyed, I’ll make notes over at the Beer Journal. Here’s the lineup:

  • House IPA by Tamamura Honten Sake Brewery, Nagano Prefecture

  • Stout by North Island Beer, Hokkaido Prefecture

  • IPA by North Island Beer, Hokkaido Prefecture

  • Smoke & Fire Habanero Stout by Baird Beer, Shizuoka Prefecture

  • Red Ale by Iwate Kura Beer, Iwate Prefecture

  • Imperial Red Ale by Ise Kadoya Brewery, Mie Prefecture

Things We Eat: Hiroshima Edition

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Vegetarian okonomiyaki at Nagata-ya in Hiroshima. Nagata-ya is one of the most popular shops in town and offers several vegetarian-friendly options—a rarity in Japan. The highlight was slivers of fried garlic sprinkled on top.

“I’m not sure I can eat any more okonomiyaki.”

If you spend more than a few days visiting Hiroshima, this phrase might come out of your mouth as well. Every street has at least one shop featuring the city’s popular version of this quintessential Japanese food.

In case you’re not familiar, okonomiyaki is a savory pancake, made with a combination of batter, eggs, cabbage and other fillings, then topped with a sweet and salty sauce. Every region does it a little differently. In Osaka, all of the ingredients are mixed together, creating a solid slab of tastiness. In Tokyo, monjayaki is king, combining the ingredients with a runny, cheesy batter that is fried directly onto the griddle, then peeled off with a spatula.

Click any photo in the gallery to see a larger version and start a slideshow view

In Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, the batter is poured into a thin crepe, then the filling is placed on top. An egg is cracked onto the griddle, its yolk broken and cooked thin to create another “crepe” that goes on top. It’s more like a big sandwich than the Osaka version.

The kicker is the soba or udon noodles that are added to the filling, creating a carb-loaded meal that will keep you going for hours. While the original version was more of a snack, the modern version evolved in the post-World War II era as a way to combine cheap ingredients into a nutritionally-dense meal.

Momiji-manju

While the maple leaf-shaped cake known as momiji-manju can be found all over Japan, its origins are in Hiroshima, specifically the southern island of Miyajima. The cakes were created in the early-1900s in honor of the island’s famous maple leaf viewing festivals.

Click any photo in the gallery to see a larger version and start a slideshow view

We hadn’t even left Hiroshima Station when we came across our first momiji-manju. A shop inside the station sold a breaded, deep-fried version that was sinful and delicious. While they were originally made by hand, they’re now abundant throughout the city thanks to the complex automated baking and wrapping machines, many of which are on display in the Miyajama shops.

Hiroshima Sweets, Treats and Eats

There’s more to Hiroshima’s food scene than just okonomiyaki and momiji. Check out the gallery below for some of the other awesome sweets, treats and eats from the week.

Jogasaki Coast

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Jogasaki Coast

Back home, heading to the coast for the day didn’t require much thought. Hop in the car, swing by the grocery store for some snacks and make the hour-or-so drive to the beach.

Last Friday, we decided to spend the weekend at the Jogasaki Coast on the Izu Peninsula southwest of Tokyo. I get the sense that a “trip to the coast” isn’t something that’s just done from central Japan. It requires some planning: finding a place to stay, mapping out the three-hour train ride… however, the swinging by the grocery store for some snacks part is the same.

The snack cart on the Limited Express train, complete with beer-on-tap
The snack cart on the Limited Express train, complete with beer-on-tap

But, we made it happen! Things came together nicely as we found a low-cost ryokan (Japanese inn) near the main train station in Ito city. The limited express train from Tokyo follows the coastline and, similar to the shinkansen (bullet train), offers reserved seating, a snack bar and a snack cart, complete with beer-on-tap. I’ll write more about train culture in the future—the way people behave on the different types of trains is fascinating.

Eating is a big part of traveling and this trip didn’t disappoint. We had an amazing vegetarian lunch at Cafe Sora and a fun and filling dinner at the ryokan made up of random things picked up at the nearby grocery store.

Sampling meibutsu—the Japanese word for famous products of a region—is a fun way to get to know an area. In Ito, that’s wasabi, mikan (mandarine oranges) and yamamomo (bayberry). We had wasabi ginger ale, yamamomo soda (and beer), and mikan ice cream (and beer).

After our lunch at Cafe Sora, we hiked along the coastal trail. From Renchakuji Temple, the path south takes about three hours to get to the Hashidate Suspension Bridge. The trail winds through forest and along the rocky coast, offering breathtaking glimpses of the sea.

Staying at a ryokan was on our short list of things to do while in Japan. We stayed at the charming Hinodeya Ryokan a short walk from Izu Kogen Station. The small guesthouse has just a few rooms and the service was excellent. We were given the quick tour and shown to our room, which was nearly as large as our apartment! A small carpeted entry area was separated by traditional sliding shōji doors leading to two tatami-floored rooms.

A chabudai (low dining table) was arranged in the middle of the first room where we were served iced green tea. The second bedroom was made up with traditional futons. We were given yukata—light cotton robes—to wear around the ryokan or even out on the town!

The shared baths were separated by gender, but they set us up in the smaller women’s bath so we could relax together. All of our previous onsen/sento experiences have been in the gender-separated baths, so this was a pleasant change to be able to share the experience.

The next morning, we were served a traditional Japanese breakfast in the main dining room downstairs. We wore our yukata to breakfast and laughed when a Japanese family entered the room dressed in their normal clothes. Oh, foreigners! The breakfast included rice, miso soup, tsukemono (pickled vegetables) and a hotplate to make a small omelette. They also had a pickled shrimp dish and a whole fish—head and all—split down the middle. We just moved the fish dishes around a bit, not wanting to be rude.

After breakfast, we were served coffee in the “family room” where the lady who made our breakfast showed us pictures of her garden. At checkout, the man who seemed to run the place asked where we were going. I told him we were headed to Mt. Omuro and he said he’d give us a ride, turning an hour-long bus trip into a 10-minute drive. Plus, riding in a car is a rare experience, so that was an added bonus!

Mt. Omuro, a dormant volcano with an archery range in its crater
Mt. Omuro, a dormant volcano with an archery range in its crater

Thanks to the lift, we arrived at Mt. Omuro just after the cable car opened, beating the crowds. From the top of the grass-covered dormant volcano, you can see the surrounding mountains and farmland, the village below and all the way out to the sea and the Izu island chain. An archery range has been set up inside the crater. A man and his daughter fired arrows while tourists watched from above (see the video below).

Every February, the sleeping giant burns brightly, but the scheduled fire and smoke don’t come from within. The Yamayaki of Mt. Omuro is one of the area’s most popular events as the grass is burned to promote healthy growth for the coming year.

Video: Jogasaki Coast and Mt. Omuro

Ito was the perfect weekend getaway; a soul-refreshing trip to the sea.

American Culture Tour

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American Culture Tour

I wanted to remember my experience returning to the U.S. after a year away and with a group of Japanese students.

Every year, our university subsidizes a trip for all freshmen in our English communication program to visit Willamette University in Salem, OR for five days. We call it “American Culture Tour.” Willamette University is the sister university to our school and where our students go to study abroad. This year, about 200 students, 10 teachers and a handful of admins made the trek across eight time zones and back.

Click on any photo for a larger view and full caption. More of the story below.

Before we set off, we had a series of classes to teach our students what to anticipate when traveling. We covered everything from packing, customs/security, airport plans, etc. Most students had never left Japan before and it was their first trip abroad or to the U.S. We placed a lot of emphasis on packing comfortable clothes and shoes. Americans dress a lot more casually than the Japanese. A couple of my ladies still brought their platform heels!

The airport experience was really smooth. My students were very well behaved and accepted my authority when I asked them to do something. Only one student accidentally brought a pen/X-ACTO knife combo through security, which was confiscated. In Japan (and most other countries I have traveled to), it’s not necessary to take off your shoes going through security!

The only thing out of my control happened in the airport going through customs. We had lined up when alarms and sirens started going off. Students’ phones started beeping with emergency notifications. And then the ground started to shake. We had a pretty major earthquake—actually in our home prefecture of Saitama—but we were about two hours away at the airport in Narita. A couple of the students started to freak out while myself and another teacher (Cassie, you rock!) just froze and looked at each other like, “What the hell is happening?” I have to say, we did great. But, my nerves were frayed after that. Being responsible for 17 lives in a natural disaster? No, thanks.

I think the students were excited about being in an airplane—watching movies and eating the food, ordering beverages, etc., although they were instructed not to order alcohol! We left Tokyo at 5 p.m. on Monday and arrived in Portland around 1 p.m. on Monday. Going through American customs took forever because all 200 kids were in the foreign passport line. And some of the customs agents were pills. Even I got stopped and asked for my American ID in addition to my passport.

Students and staff from Willamette met us at the airport, which was a nice greeting. My group had two Willamette students who stayed with us that week and arranged activities for my students when I wasn’t holding class.

We arrived on campus and students got their dormitory room keys and unpacked. We had a boxed lunch in the courtyard. We had beautiful weather that week! In fact, the Willamette campus was so gorgeous. Flowers blooming. The sun was out. The grass was green. The students were impressed by the “nature” and squirrels on campus and in the parks.

Speaking of lunch, is everything is bigger in America? When my students returned from their weeklong trip to Oregon last year and reported that the “food is big,” I thought, “Eh, whatever. American food is not that big in size.”

But, this year, I discovered they were right. Mea culpa. American people are bigger. The cars (trucks) are gigantic. And yes, the food portions are pretty big. At least from the perspective of the Japanese diet. Our lunch that day had a big sandwich, a bag of chips, a side of hummus, a pear and a brownie. It was awesome! But no way did anyone finish it all.

We had been awake for who knows how many hours at this point. I wish I had written down what times I actually slept. I was on a crazy schedule. I would try to sleep at midnight, but be wide awake. And if I fell asleep, I would nap and wake up at 3 a.m. ready to go. I actually slept through my alarm the first day, but I made it to class only 4 minutes after 9 a.m.

Each day, we held class in the morning for three hours. The first day, I took my students to a coffee shop, which was great because I slept through breakfast! Mmmm… Oregon definitely has great coffee. Sorry, Japan! I had an Americano and a Marionberry-basil scone. My students mostly ordered cocoa, but it was great to see them trying to read the menu and order and give the correct amount of money. I stayed out of the way and let them figure it out! A couple of students in the group emerged as leaders and helped out their peers. I had students ranging in sections (based on skill level) from three to 14 (of 15 total).

We also walked along Salem’s riverfront and saw the carousel. We popped into Salem Center mall and browsed through some stores. “Bik shi” or Victoria’s Secret was popular among the girls and everyone seemed to like Hot Topic. The second day, we went to the Salem Public Library—which I love—and we read some children’s books and Japanese manga (comics) translated into English. It was fun and somewhat academic.

One of the students chose a picture book that detailed a Japanese woman’s time in an internment camp in Oregon during World War II. The student didn’t really understand; that was a difficult one to explain. After the library, we walked to get some Dutch Bros coffee and hung out at Bush Park.

Overall, the trip was pretty relaxed. The Willamette students took care of a lot of evening activities so that I could see my family.

It was fun to see my mom and sister. My mom hauled me around town as I browsed through Trader Joe’s, Fred Meyer and Costco. She even brought me my favorite cake from the Market of Choice in Corvallis!

My sister and her boyfriend accompanied us one of the days that we took the students to Portland. The culinary highlight of that day for me was Stumptown’s cold brew coffee. Oh so good. I want another one. Please drink one for me, Cascadians. My sister and her gentleman friend were awesome and served as the navigators for that day.

My students LOVED shopping and thought the prices (even the prices at Pioneer Place) were cheaper than Japan. Favorite stores included Nike, Kitson, Forever 21 and the Made in Oregon store. Oh, and students were in love with the Safeway near campus. The worst Safeway in Salem probably. Oh well. Maybe it’s like how Robert and I were excited about going to grocery stores when we first came to Japan.

Our groups had lunch at the food cart pod downtown. One of my students said “It’s world food.” I guess she was right—Korean, Thai, Greek, Mexican, Polish, Chinese, even Japanese. But I think students mostly tried American food: “big” hamburgers, pulled pork sandwiches, hot dogs. Some had burritos or tacos, but overall, I don’t think they were into Mexican food. One of the nights, the Willamette student leaders took them to a taqueria and most Japanese students ordered fish and chips or hamburgers. Ha. When my students say they had Mexican food, I always ask, “was it spicy?” And they always say, “yes.” It makes me giggle. I love spicy food so I am a fish out of water in Japan.

My mom took my sister and I to my favorite Mexican restaurant in Salem: La Hacienda. It’s the best because they make their own flour tortillas. Along with a Negra Modelo, that was as good as I remember. I also went to Robo Taco in northeast Portland and ordered some “pork” and “sausage” tacos, which I doused in habanero salsa. YES. And +1 for vegetarian food options.

I’ll also add that in addition to amazing coffee and awesome Mexican food, Oregon has the best beer. Nobody else makes beer like Cascadians. It has color! It has hops! It has depth! Flavor! I die! It was fun shopping around and finding beers on Robert’s wish list. I also enjoyed a hoppy pint at Hair of the Dog and some sours to change it up at Cascade Brewing (on a night off! I was not on duty or in charge of any lives 🙂 ).

My other observations:

  • Portland really IS weird. I could do without randos begging our students for money while in line at VooDoo or screaming and ranting about restraining orders and gun permits in front of the courthouse. I’m glad that last one didn’t erupt in violence.
  • It’s hard to go from Tokyo back to Portland. 13 million people vs. 600,000. I do love pockets of Portland and I’m sure we’ll end up living there, but…there’s no comparison.
  • Americans are rude (but not as rude as Europeans) when compared to super-polite Japanese people. I witnessed Salemites arguing about parking spots, who was in line first and inconsequential things like that. That would never happen in Japan. The Japanese apologize and say excuse me even when they’ve done nothing wrong.

Overall, I had a really great time bonding with my students and seeing them use English in a real world setting. I got to see some of my students from last year who were studying abroad at Willamette. And I got to spend more time with some of my co-workers who went on the trip. Win, win, win. Thanks, ‘Merica.

Beer Journal

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Baird Beer

Oregon has more than 220 breweries run by 170 companies in 70 cities all over the state. Pioneers like Widmer Brewing and Rogue Ales & Spirits have achieved national and international success. Craft brewing has put smaller cities like Hood River and Bend on the map. Home brewing is no longer just a hobby, but the potential beginnings of a successful company.

I’ve written about the burgeoning craft brewing industry in Japan. In a landscape dominated by four major beverage companies, artisans are beginning to break into the market with beers inspired by American, German and Belgian styles.

I love to try new beers, so I have a hard time remembering what I’ve had, what I liked or why I liked it. This beer journal is more to spark my own memory, but maybe it will introduce you to something new as well. Bookmark this page and check back often for updates and feel free to share your own favorites in the comments section.

New reviews for July 2016

Rating system:  ★★★ Would Drink Again     ★★ It Was OK     ★ Skip It

Japan

Abashiri Beer
Abashiri, Hokkaido

Prison Stout (Kangoku no Kuro)
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.5%     ★★     (September 2015)
The initial nose was promising with hints of chocolate and malt. The first sip was a little iffy as the alcohol flavor overwhelmed, but after it sat for a few minutes, it settled down into a decent light stout. Maybe the best description is a beer-flavored cola?

Okhotsk Blue Draft
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.0%     ★     (October 2014)
In a bottle from Inageya. I so wanted to enjoy this because it’s blue (from blue seaweed) and uses iceberg water from the Sea of Okhotsk. But that’s all it has going for it. Light, bubbly and a hint of something resembling the flavor of beer.

Baird Beer
Izu, Shizuoka

Jubilation Ale
IBU: 28     ABV: 8.0%     ★★★     (December 2015)
In a bottle from Goodbeer. Baird’s Christmas offering uses Japanese figs and cinnamon from the nikki tree to create a sweet Scottish-style ale. Rich malt flavor. Delicious!

Maris Otter 50 ESB
IBU: 40     ABV: 6.2%     ★★★     (November 2015)
On tap at Shizuoka JALT conference of all places. Baird seasonal celebrating the 50th anniversary of Maris Otter malt variety. Low carbonation with a nice bready-malt flavor from the Maris Otter and a rich, floral hop profile from English East Kent Golding hops.

Angry Boy Brown Ale
IBU: 45     ABV: 7.0%     ★★★     (November 2015)
On tap at Shizuoka JALT conference. I’d drink this all day! Nice combination of fruit and malt. Medium-to-full body. Perfect.

Chateau Kamiya
Ushiku, Ibaraki

Cranberry Lager
IBU: N/A     ABV: 3.0%     ★★★     (September 2015)
On tap at the 2015 Keyaki Autumn Beer Festival. The Ibaraki-based brewery/winery/gardens offered a little palette cleanser in the form a seasonal 3% ABV Cranberry Lager. Light, tasty, fruity… everything you’d expect from a 3.0% ABV beer with “Cranberry” in the name.

Coedo Brewery
Kawagoe, Saitama

Shiro Hefeweizen
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.5%     ★★     (June 2015)
The Shiro (Japanese for “white”) is a light-colored Hefeweizen, although its nutmug-y spice on the mid-tongue is more reminiscent of a Belgian-style ale. A selection of sweet yeasts give it a nice cloudy appearance and, despite it’s light color, it’s cloudy enough that you can’t see through it. It’s not my favorite from Coedo’s line, but it’s one of the better Japanese hefeweizens I’ve tried.

Ginga Kogen
Nishiwaga, Iwate

WeisenBock
IBU: N/A     ABV: 6.0%     ★★★     (December 2015)
Winter seasonal, purchased in can at Yamaya. Belgian-style spiced beers are kind of GK’s thing, but this one really worked. It poured a nice cloudy golden color. The orange/citrus and banana notes came off the aroma and in the initial flavor before the malts and spicy flavors took over.

Extra Pale Ale
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.0%     ★★★     (September 2015)
Limited series from GK. Big grapefruit flavors that gave way to the typical pine resin flavor of a traditional IPA. Easily my favorite from the GK line. Excellent and very drinkable.

Hokkaido Brewing
Otaru, Hokkaido

Melon Ale
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.0%     ★★★     (July 2015)
A lot of times, fruit beers only vaguely resemble the fruit with which they’re named. Not so for Hokkaido Brewing’s Melon Ale. It tastes like cantaloupe. It smells like cantaloupe. It even pours a bright orange, the same color of canteloupe. It’s sweet, the “ale” part takes a back seat to the fruit. It is unabashedly a melon beer. HB’s Peach Wheat and Lemon varieties follow the same pattern with the same result.

Ise Kadoya Brewery
Ise, Mie

Imperial Red Ale
IBU: 85     ABV: 6.3%     ★★★     (December 2015)
In a bottle, part of the BeerTengoku prize pack. Poured a deep reddish-brown. Rich flavors with deep malts and a nicely balanced hop profile. It’s heavy, geared more toward a beer enjoyed with a meal. Very good.

Iwate Kura Beer
Ichinoseki, Iwate

Pumpkin Ale
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.0%     ★★     (December 2015)
In a bottle from Goodbeers. A good blonde ale with plenty of sweetness provided by the kabocha (Japanese pumpkin). But I like my pumpkin beers to taste like pumpkin pie (see Elysian’s Night Owl). I know it’s not for everyone, but that’s my preference. This one is good for a blonde ale, not as good as a pumpkin ale.

Red Ale
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.0%     ★★★     (December 2015)
In a bottle, part of the BeerTengoku prize pack. Poured a deep red bordering on black. Rich malt and citrus flavors with strong notes almost like coffee. Really enjoyed this.

Kuro Kura Stout
IBU: N/A     ABV: 7.0%     ★★★     (November 2015)
Purchased in a can. Nice dark pour with a rich roasted flavor. Coffee and chocolate notes and a thick, creamy mouthfeel. Even at 7% ABV, the flavor of the alcohol is not as prominent as it is in a typical stout. Delicious!

Izu Kogen Breweries
Ito, Shizuoka

Kuro Stout
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.0%     ★★     (July 2015)
Had both on tap at the brewery and in a bottle. Out of the bottle, the nose and flavor profile was much stronger than on tap at the brewery. Strong, roasted coffee notes and maltiness gave way to a lighter flavor more akin to a porter—a common thread in Japanese-brewed stouts. In the end, it suffered the same fate as the sampler did with the carbonation going flat about halfway through the glass, turning a pretty good beer into an average one.

Amagi-Goe Altbier
IBU: N/A     ABV: 8.0%     ★★     (July 2015)
Had both on tap at the brewery and in a bottle. A special 18th anniversary version of its Amagi brand. I’ve not tried the original Amagi, but by all accounts the only real difference is the ABV jumps from 5 percent to 8 percent. It has a rich, malty flavor with a slight hop bitterness and the strength of the ABV gives it nice body. It was just as good in the bottle as out of the tap. I’d drink it again, but wouldn’t go out of my way to find it. Good not great.

Yamamomo
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.0%     ★★     (July 2015)
Part of a sampler at the brewery. The yamamomo, or bayberry, is one of Ito’s meibutsu (regional famous product) and can be found in soda, juice, candy and yes, even beer form. IK’s Yamamomo is a Belgian champagne-style ale. The flavor was mild, like a sour strawberry maybe? It was a little flat, but I think that was due to the small glass pour.

Amanatsu
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.0%     ★★     (July 2015)
Part of a sampler at the brewery. The other unique item in the sample set was the Amanatsu (sweet summer) sparkling beer. The use of citrus concentrate gave it a mimosa-flavor with no real beer taste to speak of. Very tasty and unique.

Kinshachi Beer
Nagoya, Aichi

Red Miso Lager
IBU: N/A     ABV: 6.0%     ★★★     (September 2015)
In a bottle from Goodbeer. Just the word “lager” usually makes me think of a weak, mass-produced tavern beverage meant for poor college students. Craft brewers to the rescue! Using Nagoya’s famous akamiso (red fermented soybean paste) is more than novel exploitation of a local product. It adds a nutty complexity normally lacking in lagers. It pours a cloudy red with mild hints of malt in the nose. It’s clean tasting like a lager and goes down easy. Well done!

Kumazawa Brewing
Chigasaki, Kanagawa

Shonan Lemongrass Hopper
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.0%     ★★★     (September 2015)
The Lemongrass Hopper looked intriguing, infusing local ingredients into what I knew would be a good beer base coming from the folks at Kumazawa. The lemongrass and wheat flavors really came through without being overpowering. Enjoyed at the 2015 Keyaki Autumn Beer Festival.

Miyajima Brewery
Hatsukaichi, Hiroshima

Itsukushima Ginger
IBU: N/A     ABV: 4.5%     ★★     (November 2015)
Purchased in a bottle on Miyajima. Strong ginger nose upon opening, but only a light ginger taste. It existed somewhere between a pilsner and a cider. Sadly, the carbonation dissipated quickly, leaving it flat. Decent but gimmicky and the flatness was disappointing.

Caramel Blonde
IBU: N/A     ABV: 4.5%     ★★★     (November 2015)
Purchased in a bottle on Miyajima. Unfiltered golden ale based on a traditional German recipe. Light and crispy flavor. I didn’t find as much sweetness as expected from the “carmel” part of the name, but it was an interesting and tasty blend of traditional German brewing methods and the creativity of Japan’s craft beer movement.

North Island Beer
Ebetsu, Hokkaido

Stout
IBU: N/A     ABV: 7.0%     ★★★     (December 2015)
In a bottle, part of the BeerTengoku prize pack. So happy to have a real stout! Coffee and roasted malt aroma with a nice amount of sour alcohol coming through in the flavor. Roasted flavors, chocolate in the finish. A well-rounded stout.

IPA
IBU: N/A     ABV: 7.0%     ★★★     (December 2015)
In a bottle, part of the BeerTengoku prize pack.  Copper colored with a rich carmel mouthfeel. Great balance with more of a piney, bitter IPA profile, although some fruity notes are present. Best Japanese IPA I’ve had so far.

OH!LA!HO Beer
Toumi, Nagano

Captain Crow Extra Pale Ale
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.0%     ★★★     (September 2015)
OH!LA!HO’s flagship is one of my favorite Japanese beers. Big grapefruit flavor with a peach-like profile mixed in that gave way to the typical pine resin flavor of a traditional IPA. Really drinkable and really enjoyable.

Outsider Brewing
Kofu, Yamanashi

Bandit Scottish Smoked Ale
IBU: 25     ABV: 5.0%     ★★★     (September 2015)
The smokey flavor of the small-batch special came through right away, making me want to chase it with some gouda and bread! The more I drank, the less pronounced the smokiness; I’m not sure if I just got used to it or it dissipated. The smooth malty flavor stuck around for the duration. Enjoyed at the 2015 Keyaki Autumn Beer Festival.

Sankt Gallen Brewery
Atsugi, Kanagawa

Pineapple Ale
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.0%     ★★★     (September 2015)
This didn’t taste much like pineapple to me. That said, it was a really nice ale. Light both in color and flavor, but with a sour profile thanks to the pineapple being fermented with the wort. Nugget and Cascade hops give it a little bite to toughen up the flavor. Very drinkable on a hot Japanese summer day.

Yokohama XPA
IBU: 48     ABV: 6.0%     ★★     (September 2015)
Leaned more toward the pale ale end of the XPA spectrum. The flavor focused more on a traditional IPA hop profile, but without the bite. Mostly, I was disappointed that it went flat a couple sips after pouring. The flavor wasn’t good enough to make up for the flatness.

Suntory Limited
Osaka, Osaka

Craft Select Pale Ale
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.5%     ★     (June 2015)
Suntory, one of Japan’s major beverage companies, is diving into the “craft” beer market with a series of non-lager beers. The CSPA isn’t terrible, but it has a long way to go to be considered a good beer, let alone a craft beer. The initial flavor is actually decent, although very muted in terms of hop profile—imagine pouring a lager in a glass that still had a sip of IPA in it. Sadly, it pours horribly. The beer is flat within minutes of popping the top.

Tamamura Honten Sake Brewery
Yamanouchi, Nagano

House IPA
IBU: 85     ABV: 8.0%     ★★★     (December 2015)
In a bottle, part of the BeerTengoku prize pack. Rich IPA in the Imperial style. Subtle citrus flavors giving way to a nice balanced piney hop finish. A very sessionable IPA.

Tazawako Beer
Senboku, Akita

Kolsch
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.0%     ★★     (June 2015)
I have a hard time judging Kolschs in general as they’re not one of my favorite genres. This one was quite good, the nose reminded me of vanilla frosting, maybe banana? There’s the slightest bit of spiciness, typical in Japanese beers brewed in the German style. The World Beer Awards named it the World’s Best Kolsch in 2013, which makes me feel a little bit guilty that I didn’t appreciate it as much as I’m supposed to. That’s the world of beer for you though—one man’s “World’s Best” is another man’s “Yeah, that was pretty good.”

Buna no Mori
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.0%     ★★     (June 2015)
Buna no Mori (Beech Forest) is one of Tazawako’s seasonal options, an amber ale made with yeast from the sap of beech trees in Shirakami-Sanchi, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Akita. The result is a light, sweet flavor from the yeast and a bit of a fruity flavor. While it presents more like a pilsner, it has a developed flavor, likely due to the extra time required to start the natural yeast. It’s an easy-drinking beer.

Tochigi Microbrewery
Utsunomiya, Tochigi

Shirasagi no Megumi
IBU: N/A     ABV: 4.0%     ★★     (December 2015)
Purchased in a bottle at Kawagoe Farmers Market. The bottle indicates it’s manufactured by Tochigi Microbrewery, but the internets tell a story of it being brewed by Preston Ale, a craft brewery that is an offshoot of a home furnishing company called Joyful Honda. To complicate things further, Shirasagi no Megumi is brewed in partnership with the Kaminokawa Organic Agriculture Promotion Council.

The actual beer features black rice and 100% organic malts. I expected a darker beer, but it poured out a cloudy pinkish color. I was also expecting some earthiness from the rice, similar to the Echigo Koshihikari Rice Lager, but instead it had the flavor profile of a saison—light, bubbly and slightly spicy. It was refreshing and would be better in the summertime, but was still enjoyable in early winter.

Minami-Aizu Happy Asparagus
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.0%     ★★     (July 2015)
The amber, aged-malt brew uses asparagus grown in the Fukashima region of northeast Japan. I bought this from a street vendor at the Shitamachi Tanabata Festival. He told me to look at the bottom of the bottle, where small asparagus pieces could be seen floating inside. I didn’t expect much, but it was actually quite good. It reminded me of Calapooia Brewing’s Chili Beer minus the heat, but with a distinct vegetable flavor in a typical malty amber. If you stumble upon it, give it a go and support the farmers of Fukushima.

Uehara Shuzou Co. Ltd.
Nishikanbara, Niigata

Echigo Koshihikari Rice Lager
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.0%     ★★★     (September 2015)
Made from Koshihikari rice, the most expensive grain in Japan. Really held its flavors coming right from the tap. The lager itself was very light and refreshing, but the rice gave it an earthiness that was surprisingly pleasant. Enjoyed at the 2015 Keyaki Autumn Beer Festival.

Usami Brewery
Ito, Shizuoka

Rhein (German Style)
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.0%     ★★     (July 2015)
Usami uses a generic label for its bottles. The only designation as to what’s inside is printed on the cap. I was pleasantly surprised when it poured a deep caramel color with a thick white head. The maltiness came through both in its nose and in taste. It finished a little on the sweet side, but very pleasant. Good, not great, but enjoyable nonetheless.

Yo-Ho Brewing Co.
Saku, Nagano

Tokyo Black Porter
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.0%     ★★★     (November 2015)
Pours thick with a lighter flavor than American porters. Roasted malt and bitter coffee flavors lead. Like many Japanese porters, feels like a “beer soda” but one of the better porters in Japan. Let it sit for about five minutes after pouring to let flavors develop.

Aooni IPA
IBU: N/A     ABV: 7.0%     ★★★     (November 2015)
Aooni was the first good IPA I found in Japan and remains one of my favorite drinking IPAs. It has a sweet fruity profile up front, but mellows out quickly into a light pine flavor that sticks around for the duration.

United States

10 Barrel Brewing
Bend, Oregon

S1nist0r Black Ale
IBU: 38     ABV: 5.4%     ★★★     (June 2015)
10 Barrel’s S1nist0r Black Ale is one of my personal favorites despite its silly-spelled name. Inspired by German schwarzbier (black lager), it blends the flavor profile of a porter with the relative lightness of lager. Coffee and chocolate notes lead, but the black color itself comes from CARAFA black malts that don’t contain the bitterness that usually accompany black beers. They also chose Sterling and Perle hops, usually found in ales, lagers and kolschs, resulting in a less-fruity hop profile than many Oregon beers. One of my few “go-to” beers back home.

Apocalypse IPA
IBU: 70     ABV: 6.8%     ★★     (June 2015)
The Apocalypse IPA—10BB’s flagship beer—brings nothing particularly special to the table, touting itself as the IPA for “everyday drinkers.” That said, it’s a quality IPA, with a mix of Amarillo, Centennial, Cascade and Horizon hops finishing more on the bitter side. Great for sitting by the campfire at the Bend pub on a winter evening.

Alameda Brewing
Portland, Oregon

Yellow Wolf Imperial IPA
IBU: 100     ABV: 9.2%     ★★★     (May 2016)
In a 22 oz. bottle from Cheap Charlie’s (Gresham, OR). After trying the Lobo Amarillo, I had to see what the standard Yellow Wolf had to offer. Turns out it’s providing most of the Lobo’s flavor and the tequila-aging didn’t add a lot. In fact, the Yellow Wolf had an even better flavor and was super drinkable despite the high IPA and ABV. This is one of my new favorites!

Lobo Amarillo
IBU: 100     ABV: 9.2%     ★★★     (May 2016)
In a 22 oz. bottle from The Bitter Monk (McMinnville, OR). Portland’s Alameda Brewing took its Yellow Wolf Imperial IPA and aged it in tequila barrels. There’s a body present thanks to the aging beyond that of a typical DIPA that gives way to a long, balanced hoppy finish. It doesn’t seem to take on a ton of the tequila flavor, but still adds a punch to an already punchy beer.

Block 15 Brewing
Corvallis, Oregon

Sticky Hands Hop Experience Ale
IBU: 110     ABV: 8.25%     ★★★     (April 2016)
On tap at Block 15. The Corvallis brewery/laboratory’s latest experimental IPA is classified as a Hop Experience Ale, utilizing a double-amount of dry hops coupled with a nice blend of malts to create a robust, yet well-rounded beer. Well balanced with a slightly bitter aftertaste from all those hops.

Breakside Brewery
Milwaukie, Oregon

Toro Red Ale
IBU: 34     ABV: 6.3%     ★★     (April 2016)
On tap at the brewpub. Lively and light red ale brewed with chilies that give it a nice body, but without the smoke or spice promised in the description. Still a really great amber, but if you’re looking for a typical chili beer, try the Chili Beer from Calapooia Brewing instead.

La Tormenta Dry Hopped Sour
IBU: 9     ABV: 6.0%     ★★★     (April 2016)
In a 22 oz. bottle. Breakside can do no wrong! Bright flavor with a subtle hop profile giving way to a pleasant sour finish.

Salted Caramel Stout
IBU: 33     ABV: 7.9%     ★★★     (March 2016)
In a 22 oz. bottle. A winter seasonal collaboration with the wildly-popular artisanal ice cream company Salt & Straw. A bold stout with sea salt and a custom-made caramel added before fermentation. The result is excellent! The blend of eight malts bring a nice, roasted chocolatey flavor to the forefront. A little bit of the sea salt lingers on the sides of the tongue at the end.

India Golden Ale
IBU: 60     ABV: 8.1%     ★★★     (September 2015)
Originally brewed as a partnership with Eugene, OR’s Ninkasi Brewing and typically a spring seasonal, this double IPA gets tropical notes from Mosaic, Eldorado and Chinook hops while balancing the piney notes without overpowering. The 8.1% ABV was officially the death knell for our day at the 2015 Keyaki Autumn Beer Festival, but what a way to go!

Butcher’s Brewing
Santee, California

Mucho Aloha Hawaiian Pale Ale
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.6%     ★★     (June 2015)
The nose is a very light floral hop provided by Cascade hops, usually one of my favorites. However, the flavor suffers a bit from being shipped in standard aluminum cans. I know that’s been a bit of a trend, but in the Mucho Aloha, it leaves a metallic taste that renders the palette flat. The light fruity flavors and Belgian-style spices do give it a refreshing mouthfeel. I can see how it’d be a nice option after a day on the beach, but hopefully I’ll find it on tap or in a bottle. The beer itself is good, not great, but the whole experience is knocked down a notch by the aluminum aftertaste.

Buoy Beer Co.
Astoria, Oregon

IPA
IBU: 70     ABV: 7.5%     ★★     (March 2016)
In a 22 oz. bottle. The simply named Buoy IPA took some growing on me. It ended up as a nice, simple IPA without an overwhelming hop profile. With all of the super-complex IPAs I’ve had since returning to Oregon, it took a bit to appreciate this one for what it is… a flagship IPA. For a warm day on the Oregon Coast, it was an enjoyable beer and great for those transitioning into the IPA realm.

Calapooia Brewing Co.
Albany, Oregon

Chili Beer
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.5%     ★★★     (June 2016)
In a 22 oz. bottle from Cheap Charlies. The name says it all. A northwest-style ale brewed with Anaheim, serrano, and jalapeno peppers. The chili flavor and an appropriate amount of heat come through nicely amidst a traditional, lightly-malted amber ale. Calapooia was our hometown brewpub for a few years and I loved this on draught with an order of nachos.

Coalition Brewing Co.
Portland, Oregon

Space Fruit IPA
IBU: 50     ABV: 7.0%     ★★★     (April 2016)
In a 22 oz. bottle. A low-IBU IPA focused more on the citrus profile from the grapefruit. The hop flavor is light, but present. Bits of grapefruit are actually floating around in the bottle, which is rare in a bottled fruit beer, but appreciated. Very pleasant!

Coronado Brewing Co.
Coronado, California

Sock Knocker Imperial IPA
IBU: 90     ABV: 8.5%     ★★★     (July 2015)
On tap at DevilCraft Kanda. The nose is a bright, piney IPA from the Simcoe hops. Amarillo and Columbus hops give the Sock Knocker a lively citrusy/floral flavor. Coupled with some fantastic Chicago-style deep dish pizza and illuminating conversation with a Japanese swordsmith, the Sock Knocker was the perfect end to a perfect Tokyo day.

Crux Fermentation Project
Bend, Oregon

Half Hitch Imperial Mosaic IPA
IBU: 80     ABV: 10.0%     ★★★     (June 2015)
Named for the knot in the twine used to hold the hop vine to its trellis, the smell of the Mosaic hop hits you like a traditional IPA. However, the taste has a more tropical nose, with a lemon-leaning citrus flavor being the most prominent. Coupled with a higher level of carbonation, it feels a bit like a shandy on steroids—in the best possible way—despite the massive ABV. A very drinkable IPA.

Deschutes Brewery
Bend, Oregon

EHOP Amber Ale
IBU: 35     ABV: 7.4%     ★★★     (July 2016)
In a 22 oz. bottle from Cheap Charlies. Proof that a big craft brewery can still make interesting beers, this collaboration with New England’s Harpoon Brewery is a malty amber ale reminicent of an Imperial IPA in profile. East coast hops, New England thyme and Oregon sage give this a savory, bi-coastal profile. A bit sweet up front with a thick, butterscotchy mouthfeel before sliding into a pleasant, slightly-bitter hop finish.

Dick’s Brewing Company
Centralia, Washington

Dick’s Midnight Ride Black IPA
IBU: 65     ABV: 7.5%     ★★★     (July 2016)
In a 22 oz. bottle from Cheap Charlies. A small-run from a CDA pioneer to celebrate the brewery’s 20th anniversary. The dark malt comes through like a porter before a great hop comes through. I’d almost call it an Imperial CDA with all of the ramped-up flavors. Really enjoyable!

Ecliptic Brewing
Portland, Oregon

Helix Hoppy Lager
IBU: 55     ABV: 5.8%     ★★★     (May 2015)
The lightness of a lager with the boldness of an IPA, Ecliptic’s Helix Hoppy Lager is a perfect summer beer. The Jarrylo and Citra hops give a light and fruity profile with a hint of spice. The hop flavor is pronounced yet smooth with no bitterness. Helix pours a copper color leaning toward gold. Ecliptic describes it as “crisp” but it did still have a “heavy” feel to me from the hops. A single 22 oz. bottle was plenty for one sitting, but I’d definitely drink it again.

Elysian Brewing Co.
Seattle, Washington

Hawaiian Sunburn Pineapple Habanero Sour
IBU: 9     ABV: 5.3%     ★★★     (April 2016)
In a 22 oz. bottle from The BeerMongers. I’m mixed on the number of stars for this one. If you simply handed me this beer with no description, I’d say it was a super tasty, light-bodied fruit beer. However, when described as a pineapple habanero sour, I felt like it misrepresented itself a bit. The pineapple comes off more citrusy, but once you know it’s pineapple, the flavor comes out a bit. Habanero peppers have such a distinct flavor and heat, neither of which come through much. If you swish it about, a very light heat will sort of appear on the tongue. It does finish sour, so there’s that! So, good beer but not quite as advertised.

Night Owl Pumpkin Ale
IBU: N/A     ABV: 6.7%     ★★★     (September 2015)
The Night Owl is how I want pumpkin beer to taste—like someone dumped a pumpkin pie into a good quality ale. Elysian uses 150 lbs. of pumpkin in each batch and flavor it with traditional pumpkin pie spices. The result is magic. Enjoyed at the 2015 Keyaki Autumn Beer Festival.

Everybody’s Brewing
White Salmon, Washington

Sprinkles Red Sour Ale
IBU: N/A     ABV: 4.5%     ★★★     (May 2016)
In a 22 oz. bottle from Capital Market. An American red sour ale brewed with hibiscus flowers. It pours a beautiful pinkish-red. I’m sure it smells great, but with all the allergies, who knows! The sour hits right off the bat, but not overwhelming. Reminiscent of a white wine finish. Great beer for the warm days ahead!

Fearless Brewing Co.
Estacada, Oregon

Old Fearless No.1 Barley Wine
IBU: N/A     ABV: 9.0%     ★★     (July 2016)
On draught at Fearless Brewing Pub. A strong seasonal, the alcohol flavor is most present at first taste. An almost syrupy malt flavor shines through for the rest. A good, strong beer, but that first whack of alcohol flavor knocks it down a notch for me.

Freya IPA
IBU: N/A     ABV: 6.9%     ★★★     (July 2016)
On draught at Fearless Brewing Pub. A two-and-a-half star beer. A nice, balanced just-past-sessionable IPA featuring Mosaic hops. It plays a little one note, although it’s a good note. The finish could be a little more on the citrus end. A pretty good IPA.

Flat Tail Brewing
Corvallis, Oregon

Dam Wild Marionberry and Pink Peppercorn
IBU: N/A     ABV: 4.0%     ★★★     (May 2016)
In a 22 oz. bottle from Cheap Charlie’s. Part of Flat Tail’s Dam Wild series featuring beers using its proprietary sour blonde base. The Marionberry is a blackberry developed by nearby Oregon State University in the 1940s and makes up 90 percent of Oregon’s blackberry market today. The sour yeast is the big player here, with the Marionberry providing a pinkish-purple color and a bit of fruitiness. I don’t get much of the peppercorn, but it’s a “dam” fine sour.

Bulletproof Zest Session IPA
IBU: N/A     ABV: 4.8%     ★★★     (April 2016)
In a 22 oz. bottle from The BeerMongers. A very drinkable session IPA. The nose is quite hoppy, but the beer itself is well-balanced. Light citrus notes finish with an almost banana quality.

Full Sail Brewing Co.
Hood River, Oregon

Slipknot IPA
IBU: 80     ABV: 7.0%     ★★★     (March 2016)
In a 22 oz. bottle. An excellent beer from one of my favorite breweries. The Slipknot is part of the winter small-release Brewmasters Reserve collection. It’s a typical Northwest IPA, but with all of the flavors turned up to 11. A great blend of dry hops give it a nice balance between big citrus and slightly-bitter pine flavors. The body is pumped up with a spicy malt blend. Not very sessionable, but great for those one-beer nights!

Gigantic Brewing Co.
Portland, Oregon

Ginormous Imperial IPA
IBU: 100+     ABV: 8.8%     ★★★     (April 2016)
In a 22 oz. bottle. Amazingly drinkable considering the high IBU and ABV. The hop blend is mellow with a strong malty finish.

Good Life Brewing Co.
Bend, Oregon

Descender IPA
IBU: 70     ABV: 7.0%     ★★★     (April 2016)
In a 12 oz. can. We bought a six-pack of Descender for a picnic at the coast. A traditional Northwest-style IPA, the hop profile is most prevalent, tending toward a more piney and bitter flavor, yet light enough to enjoy on a warm day with some nice aromatic hops mixed in.

Great Notion Brewing
Portland, Oregon

Juice Jr. Session IPA
IBU: 35     ABV: 5.0%     ★★     (April 2016)
On tap at the brewpub. A sour IPA? Light session IPA heavy on the citrus flavors and light on the hop profile. Good, but not something I’d track down again.

Señor Blanc
IBU: N/A     ABV: 7.0%     ★★★     (April 2016)
On tap at the brewpub. A creative saison brewed with Sauvignon blanc grapes, kiwi and pear, then aged in oak barrels with Great Notion’s signature sour culture. It comes across closer to white wine than beer, but more refreshing!

Blueberry Muffin
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.0%     ★★     (April 2016)
On tap at the brewpub. As advertised, a tart fruit beer made from aged blueberries. The nose is pure fresh-baked blueberry muffin finishing with a bold blueberry flavor and a sour finish. Not very beer-y, but the achievement of the concept is admirable.

Hair of the Dog Brewing Co.
Portland, Oregon

Blue Dot Double IPA
IBU: 80     ABV: 7.0%     ★★★     (April 2016)
In a 22 oz. bottle. One of our favorite DIPAs, Pilsner malts give it a light feel while rye malts bring a complexity before giving way to a bold, yet balanced hop profile. A sweet, almost butterscotch finish rounds out a near-perfect beer. Even at 7% ABV, it’s a very sessionable IPA.

Hop Valley Brewing
Springfield, Oregon

Citrus Mistress IPA
IBU: 80     ABV: 6.5%     ★★★     (March 2016)
Purchased in a 22 oz. bottle. With a name like Citrus Mistress, I expected a bolder citrus flavor than the subtle hint that came through. The four-hop blend brought a more typical bitter hop flavor to the front. While the citrus part didn’t deliver, it was still an excellent Northwest-style IPA.

Vanilla Infused Porter (VIP)
IBU: 50     ABV: 5.9%     ★★★     (September 2015)
The last of the beers Viktoria brought back from Study Tour, VIP is one of my favorites from back home. The flavor profile reads more like ice cream than beer: vanilla beans, bittersweet chocolate… the flavors play well although the body is a little thinner than most porters.

Alpha Centauri Imperial IPA
IBU: 100     ABV: 9.0%     ★★★     (June 2015)
Despite 100 IBUs worth of Oregon hops and 9 percent ABV, the flavor is very fresh, slightly fruity with pine playing a major role. It’s an impressive feat to pull of a bitter IPA without being obviously bitter. The hop balance delivers a very smooth and refreshing finish. Fantastic!

Hopworks Urban Brewery
Portland, Oregon

Pig War White IPA
IBU: 60     ABV: 6.0%     ★★★     (May 2016)
In a 16 oz. can. HUB’s summer seasonal is a wheat-infused IPA that pours a bright, cloudy orange. Willamette hops give it a fruity, citrus profile. The light, balanced flavor is perfect for summer.

Mash Tun Time Machine English Winter Ale
IBU: 56     ABV: 6.6%     ★★★     (May 2016)
On draught at the Powell Street taphouse in Portland, OR. An accidental pour (I ordered the Secession CDA, but the tap had changed unbeknownst to our beerista), but a happy surprise. The flavor profile with chocolate malts and a mellow hoppy finish was close enough to the Secession that I didn’t realize it until I noticed the brown color instead of the black hue. I found myself drinking my way through it much more quickly than usual. A nice beer for not just winter, but anytime.

Knee Deep Brewing Co.
Auburn, California

Midnight Hoppyness Imperial Black Rye IPA
IBU: 100     ABV: 9.4%     ★★★     (April 2016)
In a 22 oz. bottle from The BeerMongers. Labeled as a black rye IPA, but like a CDA on steroids. The chocolate nose is followed by a deep malt flavor that comes off like a bourbon barrel-aged ale—bold and syrupy. The hop profile comes through as the malt wears off. The name is probably intended to represent the darkness of the beer, but I think it’s due to the fact I’ll be up until midnight sipping away at this beast!

Laurelwood Brewing Co.
Portland, Oregon

Green Elephant IPA
IBU: 70     ABV: 7.0%     ★★★     (June 2015)
A typical Northwest-style IPA, the malt flavor is light, but noticeable. The hop combination is flawless, with Cascade, Ahtanum, Amarillo hops providing a light, citrus finish to the heavier pine resin flavor of the Nugget hop. The flavor profiles more toward spring than summer though, with an almost grassy flavor that’s just warm enough for a cool spring evening, but dry enough to enjoy on a warm summer day.

Lompoc Brewing
Portland, Oregon

Pamplemousse Citrus IPA
IBU: 70     ABV: 5.8%     ★★★     (March 2016)
Reminiscent of the Widmer Hopside Down in its flavor profile. A four-hop blend with grapefruit juice gives it a more citrus-y finish. A nice, sessionable beer.

Mazama Brewing
Corvallis, Oregon

Pyroclastic Porter
IBU: 35     ABV: 5.0%     ★★★     (June 2015)
It pours a rich black and starts with a traditional malty porter profile, but then the smooth bittersweet cocoa flavor slides over you. Mid-tongue, it’s reminiscent of a Coca-Cola with a bright, slightly-acidic mouthfeel. It screams to be served with dessert—maybe chocolate cake or even over a couple scoops of vanilla ice cream.

McMenamins
Portland, Oregon

Ruby Ale
IBU: 53     ABV: 5.0%     ★★★     (April 2015)
In a 22 oz. bottle from The Blue Moon Tavern. McMenamins operates 25 brewpubs around the Pacific Northwest, the majority in historic buildings that have been renovated while maintaining their original appearance whenever possible. One of McMenamins’ standards is the Ruby, a raspberry pale ale perfect on a hot summer day. The fruit comes through in the nose and strong in the first sip before giving way to a sour finish. While classified as a pale ale, the fruit saps most of the dankiness typically associated with the style.

Migration Brewing
Portland, Oregon

Straight Outta Portland IPA
IBU: 69     ABV: 7.3%     ★★     (May 2016)
On draught at the Migration Brewing pub in Portland, OR. The clever name wasn’t enough to elevate this IPA past average status. The flavor is driven by Centennial hops, leaving a bright and crisp bitter hop flavor that, while pleasant, just isn’t complex enough to make me want to drink it again.

No-Li Brewhouse
Spokane, Washington

Born and Raised IPA
IBU: 85     ABV: 7.0%     ★★★     (April 2016)
In a 22 oz. bottle. A wonderfully mellow and balanced hop profile quickly gives way to a malty, slightly-sweet finish. Perfect!

Jet Star Imperial IPA
IBU: 115     ABV: 8.1%     ★★★     (September 2015)
Dry-hopped Chinook and Cascade hops give it that extra piney flavor and just enough citrus to balance the bitterness. The high IBU makes it a slow-drinker. Enjoyed at the 2015 Keyaki Autumn Beer Festival.

Pelican Pub and Brewery
Pacific City, Oregon

Imperial Pelican Ale
IBU: 85     ABV: 8.0%     ★★★     (July 2016)
In a bottle from Cheap Charlies. A unique malty, almost creamy note starts off this Imperial-style IPA, finishing with a crisp, slightly-bitter hop finish. Smooth yet bold, it’s worth a go.

pFriem Family Brewers
Hood River, Oregon

Down Under IPA
IBU: 65     ABV: 7.2%     ★★★     (July 2016)
In a bottle from Cheap Charlies. Utilizing Australian hops, this IPA from Hood River’s pFriem has a nice balanced flavor with hints of citrus and tropical fruits. A delicious IPA, but not a standout in the current IPA market.

Rogue Ales & Spirits
Newport, Oregon

Rogue Cold Brew IPA
IBU: 82     ABV: 7.5%     ★★★     (April 2016)
In a 22 oz. bottle from Rogue Farms in Independence, Ore. A collaboration with Portland favorite Stumptown Coffee Roasters, the nose is strong with coffee thanks to 200 gallons of cold brew coffee. The first flavor is reminiscent of a coffee-focused porter before it fades into a slightly-bitter, complex hop finish. One of the best coffee beers I’ve ever had.

Brutal IPA
IBU: 46     ABV: 6.3%     ★★★     (December 2015)
In a bottle from Aeon. A little homecooking with the Brutal IPA from Oregon. The nose is fruity, almost an apple scent. A low IBU count makes it very sessionable. A nice balance of citrus hoppyness.

Santiam Brewing
Salem, Oregon

You’ll Never Go Back CDA
IBU: 65     ABV: 7.0%     ★★★     (April 2016)
On draught at Santiam Brewing. I love Black IPAs and Cascadian Dark Ales. You’ll Never Go Back isn’t my favorite, but was still quite good. The porter-profile starts creamy and finishes with a smooth, balanced hop flavor. My only complaint is that the complexity faded as I worked my way through the pint, making it a bit of a chore to finish.

Sky High Brewing
Corvallis, Oregon

Crowbeer CDA
IBU: 75     ABV: 9.4%     ★★★     (April 2016)
On tap at American Dream Pizza. Served in a 10 oz. glass because of the 9% ABV. Classified as a Cascadian Dark Ale—basically an IPA married to a Porter—it has a rich, almost syrupy mouthfeel with a bold malty flavor and just enough hop profile to keep things interesting. The sipping quality of the heavy beer makes the glass just about right. Brewed for American Dream’s 10th anniversary, but is part of Sky High’s regular rotation.

Stone Brewing Co.
Escondido, California

HiFi+LoFi Mixtape Strong Ale
IBU: 70     ABV: 8.8%     ★★★     (July 2015)
On tap at DevilCraft Kanda. Mixtape is unique because Stone uses centuries-old technique where oak-barrel aged beer is mixed with a freshly-brewed batch. In the old days, this was done to take the bitter, smoky taste out of the fresh beer. Now, it’s done just to see what happens. To me, the beer had no nose to speak of, which was surprising considering the IBU count. But the bitter Apollo, UK Target and Willamette hops mellowed in the aging process made for a really drinkable beer, similar in taste to a mild IPA but with a full-bodied flavor.

StormBreaker Brewing
Portland, Oregon

Triple Double IPA
IBU: 90     ABV: 8.5%     ★★     (April 2016)
In a 22 oz. bottle from The BeerMongers. The basketball-themed double IPA has a hoppy, piney nose and a bold first taste, but finishes with a bit too much alcohol that hide the promised citrus notes.

Widmer Brothers Brewing
Portland, Oregon

Hopside Down IPL
IBU: 50     ABV: 6.7%     ★★★     (March 2016)
In a 12 oz. bottle. Widmer’s spring seasonal Imperial Pale Lager delivers a nice, piney nose from the brewer’s proprietary Alchemy hops and a citrus aftertaste from the Cascade hops. Nice, crisp finish. Very nice.

Wild Ride Brew
Redmond, Oregon

Whoopty Whoop Wheat
IBU: 20     ABV: 5.5%     ★★★     (July 2016)
In a 22 oz. bottle from Cheap Charlie’s. Not much to say about this. A nice, balanced hefeweizen with light wheat flavor and a slight lemony finish. Great for these warm July days.

Electri-Fly IPA
IBU: 65     ABV: 6.3%     ★★★     (May 2016)
On draught at Laughing Planet Cafe; in a 22 oz. bottle from Cheap Charlie’s. We had this excellent IPA twice. On tap, it came across with big citrus notes, while in the bottle it was more “butterscotchy” from the healthy helping of honey malts. While I prefer consistency, the two different profiles were both so good, I just didn’t care!

Nut Crusher Peanut Butter Porter
IBU: 18     ABV: 6.0%     ★★★     (May 2016)
In a 32 oz. crowler from Cheap Charlie’s. A peanut butter porter sounds like a gimmick, but Wild Ride made a quality beer. It pours pure black with a nutty nose. The first taste is peanut butter… not peanuts, but peanut butter. You get the sweetness and the nuttiness all at once. It fades away to a roasted finish that pays homage to a peanut butter cup. Wonderful!

 United Kingdom

BrewDog UK
Ellon, Aberdeenshire

Hoppy Christmas IPA
IBU: 70     ABV: 7.2%     ★★★     (December 2015)
In a bottle from Goodbeer. Another holiday offering from BrewDog. Bright tropical fruit aroma from pineapple and papaya. Great balance of citrus hops and malt. Quite good!

Santa Paws Christmas Scotch Ale
IBU: N/A     ABV: 4.5%     ★★★     (December 2015)
Purchased in a bottle at Ikebukuro Station Seibu Store. Dark color, nice roasty malt with a great balance of hoppiness. Little sweetness from honey. Blena of eight malts, including smoked malts, and low ABV make it robust yet very drinkable.

Punk IPA
IBU: 35     ABV: 5.6%     ★★★     (June 2015)
While branded as an IPA, it’s more reminiscent of an American pale ale—thanks to the use of tradition pale malts—than the hop-heavy IPAs favored by UK brewers. A nice collection of five fruity hops from Cascadia pair with Nelson Sauvin, a New Zealand variety common in APAs, to create a light and fruity flavor with the bitterness of a pale ale. Nice when you’re looking for a change of pace.

Pressure Drop Brewing
London

Alligator Tugboat IPA
IBU: N/A     ABV: 7.2%     ★★     (February 2016)
In a bottle from Oddbins in London. A beer with a funny name and a funky label, it was also very straightforward in what it was. Simpcoe hops, very clearly stated on the label as the main flavor, wheat, barley and water. As expected, the Simpcoe hops brought their typical bitterness. Not complex, but close to being sessionable if only it was slightly more carbonated. Decent, but not great.

Robinsons Brewery
Stockpor, Cheshiret

9 Hop IPA
IBU: N/A     ABV: 6%     ★★★     (February 2016)
In a bottle from Oddbins in London. Mixing together multiple varieties of hops can create complex flavors, but at the risk of creating a muddled mess. Robinsons achieved the former without the pitfalls of the latter, although the promised citrus profile read more malty to me. Quite good either way!

Siren Craft Beer
Finchampstead, Berkshire

Half Mast QIPA
IBU: N/A     ABV: 2.8%     ★     (February 2016)
In a bottle from Oddbins in London. I rarely flat out dislike a craft beer, but this was frankly awful. At 2.8%, it touts itself as a sessionable quarter IPA. It’s too carbonated, lacks any kind of depth and was just plain undrinkable. My poor wife took pity on me and swapped it for her Newcastle Brown Ale, which I’m gladly sipping as I write.

The Wild Beer Co.
Evercreech, Somerset

Madness IPA
IBU: N/A     ABV: 6.8%     ★★★     (December 2015)
Purchased in a bottle at Ikebukuro Station Seibu Store. U.S. West Coast-style IPA. Hoppy hoppy hoppy! Pine and floral but not bitter. Really enjoyed this!

Wychwood Brewery Co.
Witney, Oxon

Black Wych Porter
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.0%     ★★     (November 2015)
English-style porter. Dark appearance but a weak body. A bit too much alcohol flavor coming brought. Missing the roasted flavors that characterize a good porter. OK in a pinch, but there are better, cheaper options out there.

Belgium

Belle-Vue Brewery
Molenbeek, Brussels

Belle-Vue Kriek
IBU: N/A     ABV: 5.2%     ★★★     (July 2015)
Usually served in a tulip glass, we enjoyed ours in a plastic cup on tap at the Shitamachi Tanabata Festival. It poured a deep-reddish-purple with a thick, white head. The cherry flavor was very natural, maybe the most natural of any cherry-inspired beer I’ve ever had. The lambic wasn’t overly sour or overly dry and the added carbonation of the portable draught tap made for a very refreshing pour. Wonderful!

Denmark

Mikkeller ApS
Copenhagen, Denmark

Imperial IPA Centennial
IBU: N/A     ABV: 8.9%     ★★★     (December 2015)
Bottle from Goodbeers. A very hoppy IPA from Mikkeller’s single-hop double IPA series. More on the piney side thanks to the singularity of Centennial hops. The hops are evident in the aroma and initial taste, but they mellow throughout the taste and aren’t at all overpowering. Tasty for a one-and-done session.

Hoppy Lovin’ Christmas Double IPA
IBU: N/A     ABV: 7.8%     ★★★     (December 2015)
End of the keg at the UNU Farmers Market. Fruity and piney—actual pine needles are used in the brewing process. Hoppy, malty, thick tasting. Very flavorful but not overpowering. It’s a slow sipper, but really enjoyable. Had a second time in a bottle from Goodbeers with the correct level of carbonation. One of the best IPAs I’ve had in a long time.

New Zealand

Renaissance Brewing Co
Marlborough, Blenheim

Voyager IPA
IBU: N/A     ABV: 6.0%     ★★★     (June 2015)
From the heart of New Zealand’s wine region. The nose is somewhere between vanilla and toffee. A mix of New Zealand and British hops and malts give a nod to English strong ales, but the traditional resin flavor of a typical IPA is omnipresent. The NZ-bred Riwaka hop gives it a nice floral finish.

Navigating by Star(bucks)

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Navigating by Starbucks

I’m self-diagnosing a case of selective attention deficit disorder. It’s brought on my projects that aren’t particularly interesting to me. Treatments include watching baseball, going for a run or doing just about anything else.

I have a couple of those projects on my plate this week, so I decided to remove the distractions. I loaded up my computer and headed to Starbucks to work for a bit. There’s plenty of good workspaces around town, but the coffee giant is the only one that offers free WiFi.

The closest Starbucks in Kawagoe Station is usually crowded with commuters and since the station is our transportation hub, I wanted some new scenery. I pulled up Google Maps and plotted out some of the other shops in the area. That landed me in nearby Fujimino City.

Fujimino is the first stop on the express line toward Tokyo from Kawagoe Station, but we’ve never had reason to go there, so this was a good chance to explore the area a bit. I arrived around lunchtime and had plotted out a couple potential lunch spots.

The curry lunch set at Arcturus Cafe in Fujimino. The small shop has a couple tables in a greenhouse surrounded by flowers in bloom
The curry lunch set at Arcturus Cafe in Fujimino. The small shop has a couple tables in a solarium surrounded by flowers in bloom

I chose Arcturus Cafe, which I’m told by Wikipedia may be named for the brightest star in the Northern Hemisphere. Macrobiotic cafes like this are one of the few safe bets for a vegetarian meal in Japan.

I chose one of the two tables in the solarium at the back of the restaurant. Outside, rose bushes and other greenery pushed against the glass. I ordered the curry set. Japanese curry is available nearly everywhere, but it’s made with chicken, so it’s usually on the no-fly list. Potatoes and mushrooms took the place of the chicken. It was fantastic!

Arcturus also bakes its own bread using a naturally fermented yeast. The soup and salad set is served with fresh bread and coffee. I can’t wait to go back to try it.

The quiet surroundings of Starbucks in Fujimino offered a nice work environment
The quiet surroundings of Starbucks in Fujimino offered a nice work environment

After lunch, I headed to Starbucks to actually get some work done. The Starbucks is about 10 minutes from the station, so the crowd was pretty thin in the early afternoon with most of the customers coming through the drive-through.

A taste of home... beers from Newport, Oregon's Rogue Ales & Spirits
A taste of home… beers from Newport, Oregon’s Rogue Ales & Spirits

After I finished my work, I popped into the Aeon department store down the street. I remembered from a trip to the Aeon near Costco that they have a large liquor section with a decent selection of craft beers. Sure enough, they had three different choices from Oregon’s Rogue Ales & Spirits. I took one of each: Hazelnut Brown Nectar, Dead Guy and Shakespeare Oatmeal Stout.

I tried to make a joke with the cashier that both the beer and I were from the same place. She laughed and said a whole bunch of other stuff that I didn’t really catch. Can’t win ’em all…

My projects will keep me busy for a few more weeks and I plan to use my new method of navigating the area by Starbucks locations to find a few more new gems.

The Golden (Week) Rule

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A small Buddha statue with several offerings on the Koburi Pass hiking trail

There’s only one thing anybody wants to know right now…

Did you do anything for Golden Week?

I’ll concede there’s a small chance this topic is only relevant among people living in Japan and, if it’s coming up in English, it’s only a hot topic among 0.01 percent of the population. But hey, that’s my demographic!

UN Farmers Market and Cinco de Mayo

We started our Golden Week with a weekend trip into Tokyo to visit one of our favorite farmers markets and hit up the Cinco de Mayo Festival at Yoyogi Park.

The latest edition of "True Portland"—a high-quality Portland, Ore. guidebook written by Japanese authors in Japanese—was released recently. The authors had a pop-up tent at the UN Farmers Market featuring Portland products like Jacobsen Salt and Fuller Foods Serious Cheesy Puffs.
The latest edition of “True Portland”—a high-quality Portland, Ore. guidebook written by Japanese authors in Japanese—was released recently. The authors had a pop-up tent at the UN Farmers Market featuring Portland products like Jacobsen Salt and Fuller Foods Serious Cheesy Puffs.
Oregon Beer Geeks is a company in Japan that imports beer from Oregon and sells it online. At the UN Market, they had two beers from Burnside Brewing and one from The Commons Brewery, both based in Portland.
Oregon Beer Geeks is a company in Japan that imports beer from Oregon and sells it online. At the UN Market, they had two beers from Burnside Brewing and one from The Commons Brewery, both based in Portland.
Lunch at the UN Farmers Market—a vegetarian take on Hawaiian plate lunch, a hummus and veggie bagel pizza and Burnside Brewing's "Too Sticky To Roll India Red Ale" and "Sweet Heat," an apricot and Scotch bonnet pepper wheat beer.
Lunch at the UN Farmers Market—a vegetarian take on Hawaiian plate lunch, a hummus and veggie bagel pizza and Burnside Brewing’s “Too Sticky To Roll India Red Ale” and “Sweet Heat,” an apricot and Scotch bonnet pepper wheat beer.
Tokyo's take on Cinco de Mayo is a lot like America's take—lots of drinking and sad Mexican-ish food. The best find was probably this Day of the Dead Porter from Mexico's Cerveceria Mexicana brewery.
Tokyo’s take on Cinco de Mayo is a lot like America’s take—lots of drinking and sad Mexican-ish food. The best find was probably this Day of the Dead Porter from Mexico’s Cerveceria Mexicana brewery.

Chichibu’s Hitsujiyama Park

Chichibu is our favorite place for outdoor adventures in Japan. It’s about an hour away by train and is usually pretty quiet. However, during Golden Week, thousands of people descend on the otherwise sleepy town to see the shibazakura or mountain phlox at Hitsujiyama Park.

Video: Mountain Phlox in Chichibu

Phans of the phlox phlocking to Chichibu (see what I did there?)
Phans of the phlox phlocking to Chichibu (see what I did there?)
The phlox fields at Hitsujiyama Park in Chichibu
The phlox fields at Hitsujiyama Park in Chichibu (click to zoom)
The heart of the phlox garden
The heart of the phlox garden
Mt. Buko sits in the distance
Mt. Buko sits in the distance
People sitting around the edge of the garden having a picnic and, in many cases, a nap
People sitting around the edge of the garden having a picnic and, in many cases, a nap
Tourists getting in the way of the view of the phlox :-)
Tourists getting in the way of the view of the phlox 🙂
Local Chichibu honey for sale at Hitsujiyama Park. A very large queen bee is inside each jar.
Local Chichibu honey for sale at Hitsujiyama Park. A large queen bee is inside each jar.
"Hitsuji" means "sheep" in Japanese and "yama" means "mountain," so the aptly-named Sheep Mountain Park should have a few sheep wandering the grounds. The local paparazzi went crazy for this one.
“Hitsuji” means “sheep” in Japanese and “yama” means “mountain,” so the aptly-named Sheep Mountain Park should have a few sheep wandering the grounds. The local paparazzi went crazy for this one.
A window in a home near the park proudly displaying its winnings from the UFO Catcher games
A window in a home near the park proudly displaying its winnings from the UFO Catcher games
Mt. Buko and a bright red neighborhood shrine. The scarring at the top of Mt. Buko is a result of heavy mining of limestone used for the ever-present construction in the larger cities.
Mt. Buko and a bright red neighborhood shrine. The scarring at the top of Mt. Buko is a result of heavy mining of limestone used for the ever-present construction in the larger cities.
After a day of walking, we went to an onsen (hot springs) in the nearby Yokoze neighborhood. This is proof that I can use chopsticks like a champ!
After a day of walking, we went to an onsen (hot springs) in the nearby Yokoze neighborhood. This is proof that I can use chopsticks like a champ!

Koburi Pass

We milked every last second out of Golden Week, heading out on the last day of the holidays to nearby Hanno for some hiking. We found a very non-touristy spot called Koburi Pass. We befriended a couple of older Japanese ladies at the train station, one of whom nearly missed the train when she went upstairs to get us some local sightseeing pamphlets.

Lots to see along the way, like this statue of Buddha playing a mandolin
Lots to see along the way, like this statue of Buddha playing a mandolin
These happy farm animals were painted outside a local butcher shop
These happy farm animals were painted outside a local butcher shop
Walking up the road to the hiking trails leading to Koburi Pass
Walking up the road to the hiking trails leading to Koburi Pass
Several small shrines appear along the path, like this one of the Seven Gods of Fortune (七福神). Hikers leave coins at each shrine for good fortune.
Several small shrines appear along the path, like this one of the Seven Gods of Fortune (七福神). Hikers leave coins at each shrine for good fortune.
A view of the Okuchichibu Mountains as we approached the top of Koburi Pass. Mt. Fuji was barely visible due to the cloud cover, but it's not at all visible in this photo
A view of the Okuchichibu Mountains as we approached the top of Koburi Pass. Mt. Fuji was barely visible due to the cloud cover, but it’s not at all visible in this photo
Lunch under the pagoda of Marishiten Temple.
Lunch under the pagoda of Marishiten Temple. 
From the very top of the pass, we could look over the entirety of Saitama Prefecture. On a clear day, Tokyo Skytree is visible, nearly 50 miles away.
From the very top of the pass, we could look over the entirety of Saitama Prefecture. On a clear day, Tokyo Skytree is visible, nearly 50 miles away.
Springtime in Japan in all of its glory. The wisteria trees in bloom.
Springtime in Japan in all of its glory. The wisteria trees in bloom.
Viburnum plicatum is better known as the Japanese snowball.
Viburnum plicatum is better known as the Japanese snowball.
Mountain laurel is native to the eastern United States, but it found its way to Japan
Mountain laurel is native to the eastern United States, but it found its way to Japan
Koi swimming free in a stream near the train station
Koi swimming free in a stream near the train station

How did you spend Golden Week? Leave a comment below!

In Bloom: Sakura

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Sakura

For two magical weeks, spring boldly announces its presence all over Japan in the form of sakura—the blossoms of the Japanese cherry tree. Families and friends come together for viewing parties and everyone has a bit more pep in their step. Then, as quickly as they arrived, they begin to fall like snow, replaced by green buds and the promise of warmer days. Enjoy the view!

Sakura
Part of the large cherry tree grove at Kawagoe Aquatic Park
Hanami
Our own private hanami (cherry blossom viewing) at Kawagoe Park included homemade vegan sausages
Sakura Booze
Sakura-inspired beverages come and go as quickly as the blossoms themselves. Pictured are two sakura-flavored beers and a sakura-flavored rosé wine.
Sakura Cat
This fancy cat dressed up in her best pearls for the Nakameguro Sakura Festival in Tokyo
Sakura Dango
Tri-colored “sakura” dango—mochi balls on a stick—at Tokyo’s Nakameguro Sakura Festival
Sakura Sunset
The sun sets behind the sakura in Kawagoe Aquatic Park
Nakameguro Sakura Festival
Lanterns and blossoms at the Nakameguro Sakura Festival in Tokyo
Watch the video in full-screen mode to get the full sakura experience

Need more sakura? Check out last year’s last year’s pics too!

“Isn’t Japan Expensive?”

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Cascadian Abroad Question and Answer

A few weeks back, I asked for your burning questions to be answered in future posts. Here’s a question from Cascadian Deni:

We’re really enjoying your blog. You asked for questions a few postings ago. Here’s mine: We understand that Japan is very expensive vis-a-vis food. lodging, etc. Are you finding it so?

We’d heard the same thing before coming to Japan. After nearly nine months on the ground, my answer is “It depends.”

Food

Standard grocery items are similar in price. Here’s prices from last week in Tillamook, OR (thanks Mom!) for some staple items compared with current prices in Kawagoe (converted to USD and comparable measurements).

Item U.S. Japan
Eggs $2.19/12 pk $1.75/10 pk
Bread (premium) $2.19/18 slices $1.92/8 slices
Bread (store) $1.67/20 slices $0.82/8 slices
Milk $0.99/pint (473 ml) $0.88/500 ml
Apples $0.88/lb $0.95/lb
Bananas $0.79/lb $1.60/lb
Red bell pepper $1.79/ea $1.08/ea
Potatoes $0.59/lb $0.64/lb
Yogurt $0.59/cup $0.71/cup

*Prices compared on 12/12/2014 (exchange rate $1 = ¥119.03)

Pretty comparable. One thing that’s a little unique is that many items are sold in packs. For example, you can’t buy a single banana in our local grocery stores. They’re pre-wrapped at a standard weight (usually four or five to a pack). Because apples are in season, we can currently buy them individually, but they’re still priced per apple, not by weight.

Buying bread is probably the trickiest thing. The loaves are packaged in five, six or eight slices with different thicknesses. The most common is called shokupan—a soft, white, chewy milk bread. The thicker slices are kind of like “Texas Toast” while the thin slices are more like Wonder Bread. As with most things, the preference for slice thickness differs by region. We occasionally find whole-wheat bread but usually buy sesame bread (goma no pan/胡麻のパン) or brown rice bread (genmai pan/玄米パン) from the local bakery.

There are some exceptions on both sides. Some fruit—especially melons—is much more expensive in Japan. During the past summer, a whole cantaloupe cost around 1,000 yen ($8.42 USD). One with Hello Kitty’s face carved in the rind went for 5,000 yen (about $42).

Eating out seems to be similar to the U.S…. some places are more expensive than others. When we eat out in Tokyo, we’re usually picking cafe-style vegetarian restaurants where we pay about 1,000 yen for an entree. Japanese fast-food restaurants offer the lunch crowds big bowls of udon or soba for under 500 yen ($4.21 USD). In my opinion, Tokyo is no more expensive than any other large city in the world when it comes to dining out. In fact, I thought prices in Melbourne and Sydney were far higher than anything we’ve experienced in Tokyo.

The one area I’ll concede is more expensive on average is Tokyo’s craft beer bars. It’s common to pay 900-1200 yen ($7.58-10.11) for a pint of craft beer. Even the big brewery beers are 500 yen for a large glass.

Shelter and Transportation

Living expenses are where “it depends” really comes into my answer. Our lifestyle in Japan is significantly different than it was in the U.S.

Our two-bedroom apartment in Japan is about 1,400 square feet smaller than our house in Oregon. Our rent is much less than our mortgage and it’s less expensive to heat. The garbage bill is covered by the rental company. However, we pay less for rent than I paid in Salem, OR in 2005 for a place roughly the same size.

Utilities are reasonable as well. Our fiber-based internet is fast and less than we paid for Comcast high-speed service. Electricity and gas is also less, which only seems fair with the difference in home size.

Japan also suffered a housing bubble burst in 2008-09 as the U.S., but the market in the metropolitan areas has rebounded in recent years. New construction in our area also seems to be booming. Since we arrived in March 2014, four very large homes have been built on our street. Watching them being built from the ground up, I’d guess they’re about 2,200 square feet, which probably puts them in the $300,000 price range.

As I mentioned before, our lifestyle here is significantly different than it was in the U.S., which makes comparing some things difficult. We chose not to have cell phones while in Japan, which average more than $100 a month in the U.S.

We used to commute 45 minutes each way and, even with our gas-friendly Toyota Prius, we were still paying $40 a week for gas. Viktoria commutes to work through the courtesy of her own two feet, so we’re not paying for gas, vehicle maintenance or insurance. We regularly use trains and local buses, which can be as much as 1,500 yen each if we’re gallivanting around Tokyo, but usually 1,000 yen will last a couple weeks for trips around Kawagoe.

We have three large grocery stores, a giant home goods store and a 100 yen shop (like a Dollar Store in the U.S., although with the current exchange rate, it’s more like the 84 Cent Store) within a few blocks of our apartment, so we’re not paying jacked-up prices as a result of shopping local.

Health

Fortunately, we haven’t had to exercise our Japanese national health care plan yet. Upon becoming residents in Japan, we received our national health care cards. I’d rather not have to write the experiential post about how the health care system works. I’ve heard second-hand stories about how it seems more inconvenient than U.S. health care (requiring doctor visits for every prescription refill, preventative dental care isn’t as common), but I can’t validate those myself.

In the U.S., we were both public employees and had access to affordable, quality health care through our employers. In the last couple years, we had to start making small monthly pre-tax contributions, but it was still far better than what most private-sector employees contribute.

Travel

Traveling in country can be expensive, but it all depends on your lodging and transportation choices. For example, we found an excellent deal (less than $100/night) at the Hilton overlooking Hakata Bay and Fukuoka Tower when we went to Fukuoka in June. We used Airbnb (affiliate link) to find apartments on our recent trip to Osaka and Kyoto. We loved Airbnb when we traveled at home and usually found it to be far more affordable, convenient and comfortable than staying in hotels.

Transportation is usually the most expensive part of any trip and that’s no different in Japan. We flew from Tokyo to Fukuoka (548 miles) for about the same price as a flight from Portland to San Francisco (536 miles). The Shinkansen (bullet train) to Osaka was about 300 miles and was more expensive than flying, but that’s without considering the cost of the Shinkansen from Tokyo to the airport and back again. In the end, it was probably still more expensive to take the train, but also much more comfortable.

“Isn’t Japan Expensive?”

In our experience, I’d say the answer is “For some things, yes, but generally it’s no worse than the U.S.” Our personal cost of living is much less in Japan than in the U.S. For tourists, I don’t think it’d be much worse than our experiences in San Francisco, Chicago or Washington D.C. as far as dining out or lodging goes.

Thanks to Deni for the great question!