Europe

Day 38: Vienna

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A statue of Mozart in the Hofburg Palace gardens.

Our last day in Prague started early—although not London early—as we caught a bus for Vienna. The four-hour bus ride to the Austrian capital was much less eventful than our last bus from Amsterdam to Prague as we had our own seats and Czech language versions of 70s AM radio hits played over the bus speakers.

Our apartment was just over the Danube River from Vienna’s historic city center. Established by the Celts in 500 BC, the city has seen the Romans, Hungarians, Ottomans and Germans control the area over the last two millennia. As a result, Vienna is a rich mix of culture and architecture and the Historic Centre of Vienna was added to UNESCO’s World Heritage list in 2001.

Just looking for a place to have lunch, we found ourselves in the courtyard of one of the city’s oldest churches. Built in 790, the small St. Rupert’s Church in the old Roman quarter of Vindobona was once the center of Vienna. It still hosts services for an active membership every weekend.

One of the best ways to get a quick overview of Vienna is a tour of the Ringstrasse. The Ring Road replaced the medieval city walls in the late 19th century and runs in a circle around the inner part of the city center. Many of Vienna’s most popular tourist sights are found here, including the State Opera house, the University of Vienna and the Hofburg Palace complex.

The Ring Tram makes the loop in about 30 minutes, but we decided to walk the circumference to get a feel for the city. It also allowed us to pop into one of Vienna’s many cafes for some of its famous cake and coffee! Hanging out in a cafe isn’t just a cool thing to do, it’s actually a UNESCO-listed intangible cultural heritage.

In the 19th century, homes were often overcrowded, so coffee houses offered an opportunity for some personal space. The coffee—always served on a tray with a glass of water—comes in a dozen preparations, but typical Viennese style is called Melange. It’s similar to a cappuccino, but made with a milder blend of coffee. The cakes are beautiful, plentiful and delicious.

The Votive Church, a 19th century neo-Gothic cathedral, is currently undergoing refurbishments. The advertisements of the companies supporting the remodel are plasted across the front, including a giant banner of a woman holding a box of juice that covers much of the facade. Fortunately we’ve already seen some great Gothic churches.

Vienna’s City Hall, the Rathaus, was hosting a Special Olympics ice skating event in its courtyard. The skating rink was epic, beginning with a large corral in the front with a lane leading to a winding maze on the left. Those who found their way through the maze arrived in the main rink near the front of the building. We watched the kids, decked out in neon yellow safety vests, whiz by.

After a short rest, we took the metro to the Margareten district for dinner. Rupp’s touts itself as an Irish pub, but unofficially it’s one of Vienna’s most popular vegetarian restaurants. The menu is full of meat-free versions of Viennese classics. We went with the goulash and wiener schnitzel and were not disappointed.

Historic St. Rupert's Church in Vienna's Vindobona district.
Historic St. Rupert’s Church in Vienna’s Vindobona district.
The Votivkirche (Votive Church) is currently under renovation.
The Votivkirche (Votive Church) is currently under renovation.
Partaking in Vienna's favorite pastime, hanging out in a cafe with some cake, coffee and a newspaper.
Partaking in Vienna’s favorite pastime, hanging out in a cafe with some cake, coffee and a newspaper.
Skating rink in front of the Rathaus, Vienna's City Hall.
Skating rink in front of the Rathaus, Vienna’s City Hall.
This statue of two men on the Rathaus grounds caught my eye as they appeared to be discussing what to do with the giant pile of snow in front of them.
This statue of two men on the Rathaus grounds caught my eye as they appeared to be discussing what to do with the giant pile of snow in front of them.
The Austrian Parliament Building (das Parlament) and the glorious Pallas Athene Fountain statue.
The Austrian Parliament Building (das Parlament) and the glorious Pallas Athene Fountain statue.
Our apartment was in Leopoldstadt, Vienna's old Jewish neighborhood. The community was destroyed during World War II with many sent to concentration camps. The neighborhood began to revitalize in the 1990s and is once again a vibrant Jewish community.
Our apartment was in Leopoldstadt, Vienna’s old Jewish neighborhood. The community was destroyed during World War II with many sent to concentration camps. The neighborhood began to revitalize in the 1990s and is once again a vibrant Jewish community.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 37: Prague Castle

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St. Vitas Cathedral at Prague Castle.

On our last day in Prague, we crossed the Vltava River once more to visit the picturesque Prague Castle. The iconic view is from the Charles Bridge with the red roofed buildings framing the Basilica of St. Vitus (pictured above), but the castle grounds reveal much more from up close.

Construction on the world’s largest ancient castle first began in 870. During the Nazi occupation of Prague, Adolf Hitler once spent a night in the castle “proudly surveying his new possession.” Later it would serve as the head of Czechoslovakia’s post-war government as well as the Czech Republic’s first seat of the Head of State.

Views of the Mala Strana district below are stunning and got even better as we moved west toward Strahov Monastery. The 870-year-old abbey has survived centuries of war and 40 years of Communist occupation to still function as home to the Premonstratensian Order that founded it in the 12th century.

In the center of the grounds, the Pivo Sv. Norbert brewery has restored the tradition of monastic brewing that dates back to the 13th century. Built on the site of the original brewery, Sv. Norbert has expanded beyond the typical Czech pils to make some quality craft beers. We enjoyed a couple of them with some apple strudel.

We walked back toward the Old Square via the streets of Mala Strana. The neighborhood is mostly set up to snag the tourists walking from the castle, but still holds its old world charm. It’s also where we had to dodge most of the falling piles of snow as they melted off the roofs! We escaped dry despite some close calls.

Back in the city, we embarked on a mini Franz Kafka tour. The author, most famous for his sometimes-bizarre, always provocative works, was born and raised in Prague. We skipped the detailed walking tour, which includes places like the insurance company where he worked after college, and caught two of the statues created in his honor.

The most impressive is the mechanical statue of Kafka’s head, created by David Cerny. Every few seconds, different layers of the statue twist in opposite directions, invoking the idea of one of Kafka’s most famous works, Metamorphosis.

View of Prague from near the castle's west gates.
View of Prague from near the castle’s west gates.
St. Vitas Cathedral. The tower was the original church, built in the 10th century, while the gothic addition was built in the 13th century.
St. Vitus Cathedral. The tower was the original church, built in the 10th century, while the gothic addition was built in the 13th century.
The gargoyles at St. Vitas were working overtime thanks to all the melting snow.
The gargoyles at St. Vitus were working overtime thanks to all the melting snow.
One of the two guards at the west gate of Prague Castle. Who would want to try and attack this place?!
One of the two guards at the west gate of Prague Castle. Who would want to try and attack this place?!
The old neighborhood of Mala Strana.
The old neighborhood of Mala Strana.
View of Prague, including Prague Castle, from Strahov Monastery.
View of Prague, including Prague Castle, from Strahov Monastery.
A statue of a river ogre on the Devil's Stream sits next to an old wooden water mill.
A statue of a river ogre on the Devil’s Stream sits next to an old wooden water mill.
A much clearer view of Prague Castle from the Charles Bridge than our first day inspired by a screenshot my brother sent us from the television show Grimm.
A much clearer view of Prague Castle from the Charles Bridge than our first day inspired by a screenshot my brother sent us from the television show Grimm.
Prague's official Franz Kafka monument shows the author sitting on the shoulders of a headless man, inspired by his short story Description of a Struggle.
Prague’s official Franz Kafka monument shows the author sitting on the shoulders of a headless man, inspired by his short story Description of a Struggle.
The rotating Kafka Head statue in various states of rotation. Eventually it became unrecognizable as the different layers spun away from one another.
The rotating Kafka Head statue in various states of rotation. Eventually it became unrecognizable as the different layers spun away from one another.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 36: Prague Snow Day!

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The antenna of the Žižkov Television Tower pokes up over a grove of trees in Vinohrady.

I peeked out our window on the morning of day 36 to see a light dusting of snow on top of the car parked outside. The ground in the courtyard seemed clear, so we bundled up and set out for a day of sightseeing. We opened the front door to quite a surprise…

Several inches of snow had fallen overnight, covering Prague in a beautiful blanket of white. The sidewalks and streets had mostly turned to slush, but everything else had become props in a winter wonderland.

We took a shortcut through the National Museum park where the snow stacked tall on the narrow tree branches before stopping for a morning coffee. In a moment of serendipity, the specialty at Cafedu was a marshmallow cappuccino, a grown-up version of the marshmallow hot chocolate mandatory on a snow day in the States. Perfect!

The cafe is at the beginning of the old Vinohrady neighborhood with its Art Noveau apartments. We climbed the steps into Riegrovy Sady, one of Prague’s many sprawling parks. In the summertime, the large beer garden in the center of the park would draw visitors in droves. On this snowy day, it was mostly full of kids who’d brought their sleds out to make the speedy runs down the steep slopes, only to make the slow climb back to the top to repeat the thrill once more.

Just outside the park’s northeast exit, a small pub simply named The Tavern offered the famous Czech pilsners alongside a wildly creative American-style burger menu. We ordered The two veggie burgers on the menu, split a beer and enjoyed the warmth.

After lunch, we walked through Vinohrady. Named for the wine vineyards that covered the hills from the 14th-19th centuries, the neighborhood experienced an Art Nouveau revolution in the early 1900s, creating the unique residential area that still exists today. Its bright, multicolored buildings were made more vibrant by the white curtain that surrounded them. Only a few people bothered to wander the streets, none of them appeared to be our fellow tourists… a sign we’d gotten off the beaten path.

In the center of the neighborhood, the Žižkov Television Tower sprouts up like an unsightly weed. Built in the late 1980s, the architecture is somewhere between Soviet and sci-fi. Locals, dismayed by the way it soared above Prague’s medieval skyline, used more colorful names for it. At the end of the Cold War, it was believed to have been used to block Western broadcast signals, including the Radio Free Europe anti-Communist radio network.

We ended our walk in Prague’s Peace Square on Americka Street. A branch of the popular Prague Beer Museum (not an actual museum, just an awesome pub with a huge tap selection) gave us a taste of the Czech Republic’s craft brewing movement via their custom sampler tray. From fruit lagers to complex IPAs, it’s definitely worth Czeching out!

Having warmed up like the locals do, we set our sights on the top of Vitkov Hill, a park promising the city’s best views. The steep stairs and long, winding ramps to the top are worth it—probably more so on a clear summer day—as you can see over much of the Bohemian Basin to Prague Castle in the west and the red rooftops of Žižkov and Vinohrady to the south.

Back at the bottom, we crossed the river into the up-and-coming Karlín neighborhood to visit the small, but highly recommended, Simply Good bakery. We took a few classic Czech pastries to go, most of which made it all the way back to the apartment.

The dome of the Prague National Museum from snow-covered Čelakovského Sady.
The dome of the Prague National Museum from snow-covered Čelakovského Sady.
Footprints in the snow at Čelakovského Sady.
Footprints in the snow at Čelakovského Sady.
Prague Main Railway Station.
Prague Main Railway Station.
The bright apartments of Vinohrady.
The bright apartments of Vinohrady.

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The Žižkov Television Tower at right, toned down by the Sacred Heart Church in Vinohrady.
The Žižkov Television Tower at right, toned down by the Sacred Heart Church in Vinohrady.
A technicolor neighborhood in Vinohrady.
A technicolor neighborhood in Vinohrady.
The Grotta in Havlíčkovy Sady.
The Grotta in Havlíčkovy Sady.
Merlin, a black lager, at the Prague Beer Museum. Na zdravi! To your health!
Merlin, a black lager, at the Prague Beer Museum. Na zdravi! To your health!
The steps up to Vitkov Hill.
The steps up to Vitkov Hill.
Looking out over Žižkov and Vinohrady from the top of Vitkov Hill.
Looking out over Žižkov and Vinohrady from the top of Vitkov Hill.
Looking north into the Karlín district from Vitkov Hill.
Looking north into the Karlín district from Vitkov Hill.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 35: Prague

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Prague Castle as seen from the Charles Bridge.

The jarring beep of our travel alarm started day 35 not long after day 34 ended. It was 3:30 a.m. in London and our bus to the airport was leaving soon. A few hours later, it was wheels up for Prague.

While the weather in London was cold, there was a chill in the air when we arrived in Prague that had a different feel. A light drizzle turned into a steady shower as we set out on the capital of Bohemia.

After a filling and beautiful Czech-style lunch at Plevel, we walked into the Old Town quarter. The small Havelské Tržiště market, established in 1232, called out to us with its charming stalls and rain-deflecting awnings. Vendors sold plenty of the usual tchotchkes, but a few had beautiful paintings of various city scenes made by local artists. If not for the weather, we would have gladly packed one or two away as a souvenir.

Targeted at Prague’s growing tourist market, the Old Town Square is the only part of the quarter that is still mostly unchanged from its medieval roots. The square’s main attraction is the orloj, an astronomical clock installed on the Old Town Hall in 1410. Every hour, visitors crowd in front to watch a parade of carved Apostle figures pass through two windows above the clock. The clock face shows the time, the current month and the position of the sun and moon.

Across the square, the Church of Our Lady before Tyn has been Prague’s primary house of worship since the 1400s. Much of Old Town Square was heavily damaged during World War II, in particular when the local people revolted against the occupying German forces two days before Germany surrendered to the Allies.

We crossed the Vltava River via the pedestrian-only Charles Bridge, built during the late-14th/early15th century. The bridge offers some of the most popular views of Prague Castle and the old Mala Strana neighborhood to the west. Replicas of 30 baroque-style statues carved in the 17th and 18th century line either side of the bridge. The originals can be seen in the National Museum.

As we headed toward our apartment, the rain began to mix with snow. It wouldn’t be the last we’d see of it…

Havelske Trziste, an 800-year-old craft market in Prague's Old Town quarter.
Havelske Trziste, an 800-year-old craft market in Prague’s Old Town quarter.
The Old Town Hall peeks through a narrow alley in Old Town.
The Old Town Hall peeks through a narrow alley in Old Town.
Old Town Square. The Old Town Hall is at left, the Church of St. Nicholas is at the right.
Old Town Square. The Old Town Hall is at left, the Church of St. Nicholas is at the right.
The astrological clock and the Church of Our Lady before Tyn in Prague's Old Town Square.
The astrological clock and the Church of Our Lady before Tyn in Prague’s Old Town Square.
Crossing the Vltava River via the Charles Bridge.
Crossing the Vltava River via the Charles Bridge.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 34: London Time Machine

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St. Paul's Cathedral fills the skyline on Fleet Street.

We started our last day in London before the city itself had really woken up. Arriving at Camden High Street before 9 a.m., the alternative neighborhood had just started to stir on the hazy Sunday morning. The vendors at the Camden Market and neighboring shops were slowly setting up their booths for the rush of tourists that would be arriving shortly.

The hour of peace was refreshing after the Saturday crowds on South Bank. We wandered into Camden Locks Market where local craft vendors and food stalls were getting ready for the day. A small local coffee shop was the only thing open, so we stopped in for coffee and listened as the barista relayed his house-moving story multiple times to his regular customers.

We escaped just as the people started to pour in and boarded a bus toward Hyde Park. London is filled with open-roof double decker tour buses that let you hop on and off all day for €40-50. But for just a couple quid*, you can ride the city buses which will take you on a similar route. From the front seat of the second deck, it’s just as good an experience.

We exited at Paddington Station, mostly to snap a photo of the tube sign. A kind station employee let Viktoria past the gate to get the shot, which was a blessing in disguise as the architecture of the station has an old-London charm. Paddington was the first underground station, built in 1863. The brick archways on the platform beckon another era, even as the modern trains speed through.

A short walk from the station we found the northeast entrance to Kensington Gardens. The former hunting grounds of Henry VIII are now a large public park. Two man-made ponds—the Serpentine and The Long Water—separate it from the popular Hyde Park. We sat where the two ponds connect and watched as locals and tourists hustled by.

The south exit led through the sports fields, filled with weekend soccer games, horse riding and even quidditch practice! The once-fictional game featured in the Harry Potter books is now an internationally-recognized sport with a commissioner, rule book and official tournaments.

We cut through the quiet residential Rutledge Gate neighborhood with its prim and proper homes on our way to Knightsbridge, home of the world-famous Harrod’s department store. But shopping was low on the agenda and we set out for a place to eat our picnic lunch instead.

The area has several small neighborhoods and each neighborhood has beautiful gardens and parks. Unfortunately, every single one of them was locked, access restricted to residents only. After the fourth locked garden, we found ourselves back at Hyde Park and a cozy park bench facing the sun.

After lunch, we took the double-decker to Fleet Steet, one of London’s oldest thoroughfares dating back to the third century. It was right up our alley as it has both a long history as a home to the newspaper industry (London’s first daily started on Fleet Street in 1702) and as the site of some of London’s longest-running pubs.

The pubs in London have some really wonderful names… Olde Cock Tavern, Monkey Puzzle, The Walrus and the Carpenter. We chose Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese—established in 1538 and rebuilt in 1667 after the Great Fire in 1666—for a couple pints. The ground floor has no windows, giving the pub a gloomy feel. It continues underground into what used to be the stone cellars of a 13th century monastery. Dickens and Twain were among the pubs most famous regulars.

Nearby, St. Paul’s Cathedral offers an opportunity to repent for any sins that may have occurred in the pubs. Another victim of the Great Fire, the current church was built between 1675-1720. As we visited on a Sunday, a service was in session. Visitors are invited to sit quietly in the back of the massive nave. The voices of the choir echoed with deep and full resonance under the domed cathedral.

After a brief rest, we made one last trip into the city for a little theater. Austentacious is a comedy improv wherein the audience submits suggestions for the title of a fictional novel on slips of paper before the show. The cast draws a few at random, making up stories about failed Jane Austen novels with the titles, before selecting the evening’s subject. The entire show is improvised in the style of Austen.

We suggested “Proud and Prejudiced: The Donald Trump Story.” While ours wasn’t selected, we weren’t the only ones who thought the current presidential candidate might make a good topic. The winning slip was titled “Why America Needs Donald Trump.” Hilarity ensued.

*Earlier in the day, we began to notice that bus fare hadn’t been deducted from our transit cards. After some research, we figured we’d blown through our balance and would be charged when we turned our cards in, but we actually received a refund! I don’t know why our bus fare was free all day, but it made getting around town both awesome and exceptionally affordable! Ideas? Leave a comment below!

Camden High Street offers a tourist-friendly experience of London's alternative scene.
Camden High Street offers a tourist-friendly experience of London’s alternative scene.
Get your London punk gear here!
Get your London punk gear here!
Escape the souvenir stands and visit the Camden Locks Market, featuring food and crafts from local vendors.
Escape the souvenir stands and visit the Camden Locks Market, featuring food and crafts from local vendors.
The Peter Pan statue in Kensington Gardens.
The Peter Pan statue in Kensington Gardens.
The sports fields at Kensington Garden are surrounded by a dirt trail for horse riders. I assume the horses came into the city on the tube...
The sports fields at Kensington Garden are surrounded by a dirt trail for horse riders. I assume the horses came into the city on the tube…
A quidditch team practices in Kensington Gardens. The once-fictional sport, a creation of Harry Potter author J.K. Rowling, now has teams around the world playing competitive tournaments.
A quidditch team practices in Kensington Gardens. The once-fictional sport, a creation of Harry Potter author J.K. Rowling, now has teams around the world playing competitive tournaments.
The famous Harrod's department store in London's Knightsbridge neighborhood.
The famous Harrod’s department store in London’s Knightsbridge neighborhood.
Signs of spring in Hyde Park.
Signs of spring in Hyde Park.
Having a pint at Ye Old Cheshire Cheese, one of London's oldest pubs dating back to 1667.
Having a pint at Ye Old Cheshire Cheese, one of London’s oldest pubs dating back to 1667.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 33: In a London Minute

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The Household Troops band and New Guard relief corps march down Marlborough Street toward Buckingham Palace.

London was a city that really surprised us. It wasn’t on our original agenda, but thanks to all of its airports, it became the piece that allowed us to work in Porto. But with just two full days to explore, we had to buckle down to fit in a representative sampling of Europe’s largest city.

We woke up early and hopped on the red double-decker bus toward Soho to have a proper English breakfast. The Breakfast Club is one of those greasy-spoon places that always have the best breakfast in town. By 9 a.m., the queue was already a dozen people deep, but it was worth the wait. Just a few minutes after we were seated, a hot plate of beans, toast, potatoes, poached eggs and a vegetarian sausage was delivered to our table.

With the freshly-laid brick of a meal firmly lodged inside, we began the long walk through the theater district toward Picaddilly Circus. We came upon a small market at tiny St. James Church. The only permanent craft market in the city, Picaddilly Market run from Tuesday-Saturday and the rent paid by vendors helps with the maintenance of the 330-year-old church.

We veered toward Buckingham Palace, entering via Marlborough Street where a small crowd was gathered. We rarely find ourselves happening upon something at just the right time, but this was our lucky day. Every other day, the palace’s Household Troops perform an elaborate changing of the guard ceremony (Guard Mounting) beginning at Friary Court in St. James Palace and the party was just about to begin.

Soldiers known as the New Guard assembled in the square, beginning with a good-sized marching band followed by the guards armed with bayoneted rifles. As the conductor tuned them up, we slid in behind a tour group to listen in on the explanation of what would happen. The group moved quickly to get ahead of the band and we stayed in their heels.

The New Guard, led by a cheerful tune from the band, marched down Marlborough Street while we waited with the tour group at the intersection with the Mall. As they turned the corner, the tour leader ordered her group to go and we followed along, marching alongside the band to Buckingham Palace. It was a bit of a surreal moment…

Once we reached the palace, the New Guard entered the gates where they would take over as the Queen’s Guard. A few minutes later, the sound of the band picked up again as the former Queen’s Guard regiment marched back toward Wellington Barracks and the end of their duty.

With a newly-found bounce in our step, we walked through St. James Park, arriving at Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey. Crossing the Thames, we entered the South Bank district and followed the Queen’s Walk along the river.

Just behind the Southbank Centre shopping mall, the excellent Southbank Centre Food Market was in full swing. Full of local food and sweets, we’d come for the spicy peppers requested by Cascadian Pugs who has supported our adventures in Japan with copious care packages over the past two years. The cookie and tea were just for us though.

We continued northeast along the river, passing the bridges, shops and cafes. A tourist-trap museum denoted the former location of London’s notorious medieval prison known as The Clink.

We finally arrived at Borough Market in the Southwark neighborhood. One of London’s largest and oldest food markets, it claims to have begun in 1014 and has a documented history dating to 1276. Packed tight with tourists, we waded through the crowds from one end to the other before circling back for lunch. The punny Pie Minister served up traditional pot pies, creamy mashed potatoes and smashed peas mixed with mint. Not much to look at, but it dispelled the myth of British food being bland.

Powered up for one final push, we took the tube to Notting Hill. The charming and funky neighborhood popularized by the movie of the same name has a small, colorful residential area followed by a very long shopping street. Portobello Road begins with typical souvenir shops, most of which prominently feature Hugh Grant and Julia Roberts on t-shirts. But the further you go, the more the tourists drop off, more placed by locals taking advantage of the various food tents set up on the road.

At the far end of the road, the Acklan Village Market appears like an alternate universe. Flush with vegetarian food carts, live music and craftier vendors than its neighboring market, it’s a Bohemian bubble all its own.

With a large part of our London list taken care of, we returned to Baker Street to investigate a little rest and relaxation. We’d have another big day ahead of us…

London's signature double-decker bus and hackney carriage (taxi) compete for space near Piccadilly Circus.
London’s signature double-decker bus and hackney carriage (taxi) compete for space near Piccadilly Circus.
The Buckingham Palace Household Troops assemble in Friary Court at St. James Palace in preparation for the changing of the guard ceremony.
The Buckingham Palace Household Troops assemble in Friary Court at St. James Palace in preparation for the changing of the guard ceremony.
Buckingham Palace and the memorial to Queen Victoria.
Buckingham Palace and the memorial to Queen Victoria.
Westminster Palace's Victoria Tower from Parliament Square.
Westminster Palace’s Victoria Tower from Parliament Square.
Elizabeth Tower (Big Ben) from Parliament Square.
Elizabeth Tower (Big Ben) from Parliament Square.
From left to right: Big Ben, Westminster Palace, Victoria Tower and Westminster Abbey.
From left to right: Big Ben, Westminster Palace, Victoria Tower and Westminster Abbey.
The lively South Bank entertainment district.
The lively South Bank entertainment district.
417 years later, the Globe Theater is still home to Shakespeare's best works. The current version however is just 19 years old.
417 years later, the Globe Theater is still home to Shakespeare’s best works. The current version however is just 19 years old.
The historic Borough Market.
The historic Borough Market.
The colorful houses on Portobello Road in the funky Notting Hill neighborhood.
The colorful houses on Portobello Road in the funky Notting Hill neighborhood.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 32: London Nights

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Big Ben, Westminster Palace and the London Eye.

We left lovely Porto in the rain, arriving in London during the late afternoon. By the time we arrived at our Airbnb near Baker Street—the home of Sherlock Holmes—the sun had set on day 32. But that wouldn’t stop us from doing a little sightseeing.

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We exited Westminster Station directly into the massive shadow of Elizabeth Tower, better known as Big Ben. Other than a few people wandering the neighborhood and the evening commuters dashing by, we more or less had the area to ourselves.

Around the corner, the Palace of Westminster, home to the UK’s infamous Parliament, lay quiet. Big Ben anchors the gothic-style building at one end, while Victoria Tower—once the world’s tallest non-religious building—proudly flies the Union Flag at the other.

Across the street, the famous Westminster Abbey was equally quiet as flood lights highlighted the rose window on the north entrance. The abbey was founded in the 10th century and the current structure was built from 1245 forward. The neo-gothic western facade was a late addition in the 18th century. Royal weddings have been held in the abbey since 1100; most recently the marriage of Prince William and Kate Middleton.

Back near the station, the only crowd we’d seen all night lined the Westminster Bridge to take photos of the London Eye. Marking the unofficial beginning of the South Bank entertainment district, Europe’s largest Ferris wheel cast a colorful light upon the River Thames.

We hopped back on the tube toward London Bridge. Although it’s the subject of a famous song, London Bridge itself isn’t much more than a concert slab spanning the Thames. Its neighbor, the Tower Bridge, is the real star.

The 120-year-old suspension bridge connects the South Bank to the Tower of London. A four-year restoration project was finished in time for the 2012 Summer Olympics, adding a blue and white color scheme and LED lights that make the bridge a must-see on a London evening.

The north facade of Westminster Abbey.
The north facade of Westminster Abbey.
The London Eye reflecting on the River Thames.
The London Eye reflecting on the River Thames.
The Tower of London.
The Tower of London.
The Tower Bridge.
The Tower Bridge.
The Tower Bridge.
The Tower Bridge.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 31: All the Ports of Porto

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The red roofs of Porto with the Torre dos Clérigos rising high above the rest of the city.

I opened the utensil drawer on the first day in our Airbnb apartment to find a mostly empty cutlery tray with only a wine corkscrew in it. “Porto in a nutshell” I thought. But the city famous for its sweet wine has so much more to offer.

With the sun finally breaking through for the first time in what seemed like forever, we set out early on day 31 with an ambitious agenda. We started with another stair climb, the most scenic way to climb the south side hills, to the viewpoint at Miradouro da Vitoria for a morning view of the city. Nearby, the 18th-century baroque church and city icon, Torre dos Clèrigos, soared above the tightly-packed buildings.

Opposite the park near the tower is the famous Livraria Lello & Irmão. Widely considered one of the world’s most beautiful bookstores, Lello gained additional fame when Harry Potter author J.K. Rowling revealed it as a source of inspiration for her popular novels. The architecture is stunning, beginning with the deep red staircase in the middle of the room. Natural light from the stained glass ceiling floods the the collection of both modern books and 100-year-old copies of classics. The old book cart on rails now serves as a shelf for Rowling’s many works.

Across the street, the blue-tiled churches of Igreja dos Carmelitas glistened in the sun. While they appear to be one building, they’re actually two buildings separated by one of the world’s narrowest houses. At just one meter (just over three feet) wide, it served to create a barrier between the nuns of Carmelite Church and the monks of Carmo Church and was occupied as a residence until the 1980s.

After lunch, we boarded the Heritage Tram toward the coast. The vintage cable tram cars move slowly along the Douro River with only three stops along the way. At the end of the line, the conductor manually switches the cable connector from one end of the tram to the other before making the return journey.

We alighted a few blocks away from Porto’s long stretch of Atlantic Ocean-facing beaches. The ocean air was refreshing for the lungs and the soul. We sat along the stone wall for awhile and watched the clouds roll back in. As the sky began to turn to a less-desirable shade of gray, we headed back toward the city center.

The north side of the river is known as Vila Nova de Gaia and has been home to many of Porto’s wine cellars since the 13th century. Prior to the arrival of the railroad, wine was transported in barrels from the Douro Valley to the cellars by small rowboats called Rabelos. The boats are unique to the Porto region and are now on display along the banks of the river.

We chose to tour Sandeman Cellars after reading some reviews online. For just a few euros, we received a group tour (led by “The Don,” the character in the company’s logo) of the wine cellars and a sample tasting at the end.

Sandeman is well-known in the history of the wine industry. It was the first company to put labels on the bottle identifying a wine with its producer. Later, it became the first producer to advertise, including a series of controversial art-nouveau posters.

We made some new friends that night as well. At the cellar tasting, we sat next to a older couple from London, our next destination. The woman was originally from Japan, so we had some interesting stories to share. They gave us a few tips of things to see and do on the next leg of our trip.

On the way back to our apartment, a drunken group of German futbol fans asked us to take a photo of them. The team from Dortmund was in town to play FC Porto and they traveled well, overflowing the riverside bars and singing team songs. The ringleader asked where we were from. When I replied “the U.S.,” he shouted “I love Donald Trump!” and everyone had a good laugh.

View from Miradouro da Vitoria.
View from Miradouro da Vitoria.
Torre dos Clèrigos.
Torre dos Clèrigos.

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Igreja dos Carmelitas.
Igreja dos Carmelitas.
The Porto Heritage Tram.
The Porto Heritage Tram.
Fishing boats in the Douro River near the mouth of the Atlantic Ocean.
Fishing boats in the Douro River near the mouth of the Atlantic Ocean.
A Rabelo boat belonging to Cockburn's Port House sits in the Douro River.
A Rabelo boat belonging to Cockburn’s Port House sits in the Douro River.

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More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 30: Porto

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Porto at night.

Porto was on our original itinerary, but we were having a hard time getting Portugal’s second-largest city to fit in our actual travel plans. The stars and flight finally aligned somewhere around Berlin and we were on our way.

We arrived from Brussels late the previous afternoon to warmer and dryer weather than we’d had grown accustomed during the week past. Sitting along the south side of the Douro River in Porto’s historic center, we watched as day turned to night and the signs of the wine cellars on the river’s north bank began to light up.

On this late February day, the historic south side felt untouched despite the increased tourism. Our Airbnb host told us the city is nearly unlivable when the summer crowds arrive—Porto was named the best European destination by a leading tourism agency in both 2012 and 2014. But, the local government has done an admirable job of keeping growth limited to certain areas of the city.

The spectacular blue-tiled cathedrals and 15th century houses painted in bright colors are the highlight for most sightseers, but real life is on display as well. In the morning, we climbed the stairs from near the river up the narrow alleys toward Porto Cathedral, the city’s oldest building. The small, narrow homes were full of life as people hung out their laundry and socialized with neighbors, seemingly unimpressed by their important surroundings.

We weathered a sudden and heavy patch of rain, ducking into Capela das Almas. Outside, the church is adorned in the aforementioned tiles covered in monochrome blue painted religious images. Inside, despite it being midday in the middle of the week, a crowded mass was being held. We stood silently in the back, waiting for the weather to pass.

Just down the street, we stumbled on Mercado do Bolhao. The old citarket was like nothing we’d seen before. The center of the market is set in a courtyard with balconies running around the outside. It resembled an arena more than a typical market. While some vendors targeted the tourists with Porto-branded kitsch, the myriad of produce vendors, butchers and bread shops let us know this was a place for locals as well. We bought some things for dinner, including a dense, softball-sized loaf of bread known as broa de Aventes that weighed in at two pounds!

In the evening, we crossed the Ponte Luiz I Bridge—designed by a partner of Gustave Eiffel and which bears more than a passing resemblance to the Eiffel Tower—and looked over the south side of the city from the Mosteiro de Serra do Pilar viewpoint. The river at night looks almost metropolitan as the outdoor cafes cast a yellow hue, but the old city on the hill fades to darkness save for a few flood lights.

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The red roofs of Porto with the Torre dos Clérigos rising high above the rest of the city.
The red roofs of Porto with the Torre dos Clérigos rising high above the rest of the city.
The painted tiles of Capela das Almas.
The painted tiles of Capela das Almas.
The historic south bank of the Douro River as seen from the Mosteiro de Serra do Pilar viewpoint.
The historic south bank of the Douro River as seen from the Mosteiro de Serra do Pilar viewpoint.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 29: Mannekin Pis and the Brussels Comic Walk

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Mannekin Pis

We woke up on our last morning in Brussels with a sense of purpose. We had just three hours before leaving for the airport and had some unfinished business.

The outer walls of some of Brussels’s city center buildings are adorned with large murals by some of Belgium’s most famous comic book artists. The style, especially hose drawn in the 1970s, heavily influenced artists around the world, the results of which can still be seen today.

Started in 1991 as a colorful way to decorate the mono color streets of the city, more than 50 murals can be found throughout the city. We followed the Comic Book Trail from Grand Place to the south end of the city. It’s a bit like a treasure hunt as some are tucked away down side streets while others jump out at you.

Along the way, we crossed off the final must-see. Mannekin Pis, a 17th century sculpture of a little boy peeing into a fountain, is arguably Brussels’s most famous landmark. Considering its usage in marketing at so many shops around town, it’s a bit shocking to arrive at the fountain to find the statue standing just two-feet tall and wedged into the corner of an intersection.

His impish grin instant brings out he 12-year-old boy in all of us. A steady stream empties into the fountain below. People stop, take a picture and maybe a selfie and move on. It’s impressive and not all at the same time, but definitely light-hearted and amusing.

Mannekin has a “sister” hidden away down Impasse de la Fidélité, a small alleyway near Grand Place. Jeanneke Pis was commissioned in the 1980s and features a little girl squatting.

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Click any photo in the gallery to see a larger version and start a slideshow view

Jeanneke Pis.
Jeanneke Pis.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe