Europe - Cascadian Abroad

Day 8: Fat City

February 4, 2016 by Robert Haddan

Travel days are often the worst part of traveling. They’re full of unexpected delays, bad food and mysterious sights, smells and sounds. The first half of day eight of our adventures around Europe became one of those travel days.

Fog delayed our train from Florence to Bologna by more than an hour. What should have been an easy 35 minute trip became a multi-hour ordeal. Being in Italy, we missed out on the bad food experience, killing 90 minutes in the train station cafe drinking espresso and enjoying Ortolano sandwiches from the deli. We scored seats on the train next to the lady who spent the whole trip talking on her phone while her fussy kids cried for attention.

But it can always be worse and our travel karma balanced out when we arrived in Bologna. Our B&B was wonderful and our host, Mario, gave us a perfect lunch recommendation nearby.

Ristorante da Bertino e Figli is exactly how we pictured a small Italian restaurant; several tables packed closely together, the walls plastered in framed photos and newspaper clippings. Everyone had wine with their lunch, the conversation growing more boisterous with each passing sip. Dogs accompanied their owners into the restaurant, laying quietly under the tables as if they’d been here before.

And the food… One of Bologna’s nicknames is “La Grassa,” or “Fat” thanks to its world-famous cuisine. Tortellini, lasagne and mortadella (Americans might be more familiar with Oscar Meyer’s version called bologna) all got their start here. We had gnocchi and spinach/ricotta-stuffed tortelloni, both smothered in tomato sauce. For dessert, almond cake and semifreddo al mascarpone.

Each bite was to be savored, exploring the textures and flavors as the layers melted away in our mouths. At the end of the meal, we were looking for someone to hug or somewhere to cry tears of joy from an unforgettable meal, the best so far in Italy.

The lobby of Ristorante da Bertino e Figli.

Dessert of almond cake and semifreddo al mascarpone, better known as tiramisu.

Students walking around the Communications campus of the University of Bologna. The city also earned the nickname of "La Dotta," or "Eridite," for its long history of higher education. The University of Bologna is the world's oldest, dating back to 1088 and boasting alumni like Nicolaus Copernicus (who figured out the sun was the center of the solar system), author Dante Alighieri and Guglielmo Marconi, the inventor of the radio. — Students walking around the Communications campus of the University of Bologna. The city also earned the nickname of “La Dotta,” or “Eridite,” for its long history of higher education. The University of Bologna is the world’s oldest, dating back to 1088 and boasting alumni like Nicolaus Copernicus (who figured out the sun was the center of the solar system), author Dante Alighieri and Guglielmo Marconi, the inventor of the radio.

The corner supermarket by our B&B had a nice selection of local nuts, and these guys who were a long way from home! Yay for Oregon hazelnuts!

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Day 7: Leaning Tower of Pisa

February 3, 2016 by Robert Haddan

There are just a handful of landmarks that are intertwined with the identity of a place. The Great Wall of China. The Statue of Liberty. The Eiffel Tower. And the Leaning Tower of Pisa.

On our last day in Florence, we took a day trip out to Pisa to see one of the world’s great architectural follies. Construction on the grand tower began in 1173, but stopped just a few years in as the first three tiers began to list. Pisa’s artisans started again 100 years later, but could never solidify the foundation, built atop soft sand and clay. To compensate for the lean, the builders created a subtle curve in the remaining tiers.

The tower continued to sink as the centuries passed. By the 1990s, it had a five degree lean and was in danger of collapsing. To bring the tower back to its original lean, workers excavated more than 70 tons of soil from the north side, effectively sinking it back to “level.” The solution is expected to preserve the structure for another 300 years.

In person, the lean of the tower is far more impressive than in photos. The flag atop the tower is perpendicular to the ground and the neighboring Baptistry (which leans 51 cm itself) provide a baseline to see how far off-plumb it really is.

The quintessential Pisa photo is the “holding up the tower” shot. Watching all the tourists holding contorted positions and balancing precariously on posts and rails, all for the perfect shot, is part of the experience.

The neighboring Baptistry provides a point of comparison to show the amount of lean in the tower.

From this angle, the "banana curve" of the tower can be seen. The original builders attempted to compensate for the tilted base by curving the remaining tiers. — From this angle, the “banana curve” of the tower can be seen. The original builders attempted to compensate for the tilted base by curving the remaining tiers.

Close-up of the base. The tower began to list after the first three tiers were built due to the unstable sand and clay soil under the foundation.

Holding up the tower is a lot of work. That's why the tourists take turns. — Holding up the tower is a lot of work. That’s why the tourists take turns.

Imagine this scene without the tower... — Imagine this scene without the tower…

The tower's neighbors in Campo del Miracola, the Duomo and Baptistry, are also slightly crooked at 25 cm and 51 cm respectively. — The tower’s neighbors in Campo del Miracola, the Duomo and Baptistry, are also slightly crooked at 25 cm and 51 cm respectively.

Back in Florence to finish the day, we walked through the south part of town and across the Ponte Vecchio bridge. The bridge is lined with shops on both sides. Originally butcher shops, they now host jewelry and clothing shops.

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Day 6: Tuscany

February 2, 2016 by Robert Haddan

A view of Tuscany's rolling hills over the picturesque homes of San Gimignano.

On our sixth day in Italy, we set out on a tour of Tuscany’s wine country by way of its historical medieval villages.

We started in San Gimignano, home to a village that dates back to 3 B.C. During the Middle Ages, the city was a popular stop for Catholic pilgrims and experienced an era of growth, adding several churches and large towers. Many of those towers still stand today, making the walled city on a hill look like a mini stone metropolis from a distance.

Lunch was at Trattoria Borgo di Racciano, a nearby vineyard, olive grove, restaurant and bed and breakfast. The menu boasts typical Tuscan food, but they do a set menu for tour groups. We started with bruschetta topped with their homemade olive oil and slices of local cheese (most plates had two slices of salami, but everyone was envious of the cheese on the vegetarian option). The second course was a simple penne pasta with tomato sauce, but it was easily the best I’ve ever had. We finished with biscotti and Vin Santo, a strong, sweet dessert wine. The cookies are meant to be dipped in the wine. All the while, bottles of white and red wine from the vineyard lined the tables. I had a bit of a nap on the bus after lunch.

From lunch, we went to the city of Siena. Possibly the most famous of Tuscany’s hill towns, it has a recorded history back to 900 B.C. Walking through the old streets was like stepping back in time, although the luxury jewelry, clothing and gelato shops kept one foot planted in the present. Our favorite part was the town square, Piazza del Campo, where we watched kids playing with confetti and silly string while dressed in costumes as they celebrated Carnivale.

We had one last brief stop in the small village of Monteriggioni. It was after dark already and the town had mostly shut down for the day. It’s most notable for being used in the description of the rings of Hell in Dante Alighieri’s 1320 poem “Divine Comedy.”

A group of locals gathered in San Gimignano's town square to chat and watch the tourists go by. — A group of locals gathered in San Gimignano’s town square to chat and watch the tourists go by.

Torre Grossa, the tallest of San Gimignano's 14 towers. — Torre Grossa, the tallest of San Gimignano’s 14 towers.

It's darks day in San Gimignano. — It’s darks day in San Gimignano.

A view of San Gimignano's towers from Borgo di Racciano. — A view of San Gimignano’s towers from Borgo di Racciano.

A lonely olive on one of the trees in Borgo di Racciano's grove. — A lonely olive on one of the trees in Borgo di Racciano’s grove.

The Siena Cathedral, built in the 13th century, features one of the world's most ornate church facades. — The Siena Cathedral, built in the 13th century, features one of the world’s most ornate church facades.

Confetti and silly string color Siena's Piazza del Campo. — Confetti and silly string color Siena’s Piazza del Campo.

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Day 5: Michelangelo’s David

February 1, 2016 by Robert Haddan

After four wonderful days in Rome, we moved north to Florence. Known by the locals as Firenze, the town is like stepping into a Renaissance time machine.

There are a ton of amazing sights and experiences in Florence, but our first day was all about seeing David. Michelangelo’s iconic statue of a naked David after slaying Goliath stands in the heart of the Galleria dell’Accademia. The museum was originally intended to be the quintessential collection of the Master’s work, but in the end, it only contains a few of Michelangelo’s unfinished works and, of course, David.

We arrived before the tour groups, giving us a good 30 minutes with David unencumbered by other visitors. We took a ton of photos, then just sat and observed the craftsmanship. The joints and striations of the muscles and tendons are impeccable, as are the details of the veins bulging from his hands and arms. The proportions are near perfect, although his hands and feet seem a little large.

Then there his, well, manhood. It’s the primary feature by which people recognize the work. And it’s prominent. The statue is elevated on a marble base, so it’s front and center in every photo. At the time, you don’t give it much thought, but after we got back to the hotel and started looking at some of the pics, we couldn’t help but giggle a bit.

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The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore is one of Florence's most popular landmarks. Built in the 1400s, it's one of Italy's largest churches and certainly doesn't fit in a single photo frame! — The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore is one of Florence’s most popular landmarks. Built in the 1400s, it’s one of Italy’s largest churches and certainly doesn’t fit in a single photo frame!

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 4: Ancient Rome

January 31, 2016 by Robert Haddan

On the morning of our last day in Rome, we walked around the ancient part of the city. It’s a bit mind-blowing to think about walking the same streets and seeing the same sights as a society living 2,000 years ago. Roman architectural and construction methods were so advanced that some of the techniques lost during the Middle Ages, such as insulated glazing (double-pane windows), weren’t rediscovered until the 20th century.

The columns of the Temple of Saturn (between 497-42 B.C.), the Arch of Septimius Severus (203 A.D.) and the Santi Luca e Martina church (625 A.D.) are some of the most famous sights of the ruins of the Roman Forum. For centuries, the Forum was the center of Rome. Today, major excavations and restoration projects are ongoing as the history of the once-great marketplace continues to reveal itself.

The extravagant Altare della Patria is a relatively new monument, built between 1885 and 1911 to honor King Victor Emmanuel. It was controversial at the time of construction as it utilizes every architectural cliche of Roman construction aesthetics and was considered by many to be over the top. It also razed a Medieval-era neighborhood to clear a site directly at the fringe of the Roman Forum ruins.

A statue of Caesar stands along the ruins of the Trajan Forum. The dome of Santa Maria di Loreto, a 16th-century Catholic church, stands in the background.

Small brass plates have replaced 100 of the millions of cobblestones in the streets of Rome. They're part of a project by German artist Gunter Demnig to commemorate victims of the Holocaust. These two plaques were in front of the home where Alfredo Di Nola and Livia Seta lived when they were taken to the Auschwitz concentration camp. Demnig has set more than 48,000 plaques in 18 European countries, making it the world's largest memorial. — Small brass plates have replaced 100 of the millions of cobblestones in the streets of Rome. They’re part of a project by German artist Gunter Demnig to commemorate victims of the Holocaust. These two plaques were in front of the home where Alfredo Di Nola and Livia Seta lived when they were taken to the Auschwitz concentration camp. Demnig has set more than 48,000 plaques in 18 European countries, making it the world’s largest memorial.

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Day 2: When in Rome

January 29, 2016 by Robert Haddan

On our second day in Rome, we visited the famous Trevi Fountain. The 86-foot tall fountain was built in the 1700s as part of a design competition sponsored by Pope Clement XII, a popular Baroque-era method for designing the magnificent structures of Rome. The fountain took more than 30 years to complete and the architect, Nicola Salvi, died before it was completed.

On our second day in Rome, we tried to visit as many of the must-sees as we could, including the famous Trevi Fountain.

The 86-foot tall fountain was built in the 1700s as part of a design competition sponsored by Pope Clement XII, a popular Baroque-era method for designing the magnificent structures of Rome. The fountain took more than 30 years to complete and the architect, Nicola Salvi, died before it was finished.

It’s estimated that more than 3,000 euros are thrown into the fountain every day. The funds have been used to build a supermarket offering basic items for free to families in need.

Pope Francis greets the Vatican cardinals following his weekly Wednesday audience with the general public. After the service, the Pope waded into the crowd as they chanted his name.

The crowd begins to disperse in front of the Vatican's St. Peter's Square following Pope Francis's weekly audience. — The crowd begins to disperse in front of the Vatican’s St. Peter’s Square following Pope Francis’s weekly audience.

St. Peter's Basilica as seen from Via Dei Corridori. I love the optical illusion of the street lamps "bending" down the street. — St. Peter’s Basilica as seen from Via Dei Corridori. I love the optical illusion of the street lamps “bending” down the street.

One of the angel statues lining the Ponte Sant'Angelo bridge leading to the Castle of St. Angelo. The castle was built in the second century as a mausoleum for the Roman Emperor Hadrian. Over the last 2,000 years, it's served as a military fortress, an emergency Papal residence, a prison and now as a museum. — One of the angel statues lining the Ponte Sant’Angelo bridge leading to the Castle of St. Angelo. The castle was built in the second century as a mausoleum for the Roman Emperor Hadrian. Over the last 2,000 years, it’s served as a military fortress, an emergency Papal residence, a prison and now as a museum.

Built in the 1700s, the Spanish Steps link the Trinità dei Monti church to the Plaza of the Spanish Embassy to the Vatican at street level. Usually a popular hang out space for Romans and tourists alike, the steps are currently closed for restoration due to wear and tear from all those tourists. Luxury jewelry brand Bulgari is footing the bulk of the restoration bill.

Trinità dei Monti is an excellent example of Italian Renaissance architecture. During Napoleon's occupation of Rome, many of the church's adornments were damaged or looted. The church was restored at the expense of French King Louis XVIII in 1816. Among the works inside is this sculpture called Deposition by German sculptor Wilhelm Achtermann depicting the descent of Jesus from the cross. — Trinità dei Monti is an excellent example of Italian Renaissance architecture. During Napoleon’s occupation of Rome, many of the church’s adornments were damaged or looted. The church was restored at the expense of French King Louis XVIII in 1816. Among the works inside is this sculpture called Deposition by German sculptor Wilhelm Achtermann depicting the descent of Jesus from the cross.

The streets of Italy's largest city are still paved in cobblestone. Locally, the stones are known as "SanPietrini," or "Little St. Peters." The name most likely came from the stones first appearing in St. Peter's Square, but local legend says there's one cobblestone for every soul saved by St. Peter. If that's the case, that's a lot of souls! — The streets of Italy’s largest city are still paved in cobblestone. Locally, the stones are known as “SanPietrini,” or “Little St. Peters.” The name most likely came from the stones first appearing in St. Peter’s Square, but local legend says there’s one cobblestone for every soul saved by St. Peter. If that’s the case, that’s a lot of souls!

A typical Rome apartment building. The disrepair of the outside is quite beautiful, fitting into the rustic look that dominates this ancient city.

A restored Italian coupe parked in an alley in the Trastevere neighborhood. The district retained its distinct old world charm due in part to its separation from the rest of Rome by the Tiber River.

Closing time in a shop near the Campo de' Fiori market. — Closing time in a shop near the Campo de’ Fiori market.

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Day 1: Benvenuto a Roma

January 28, 2016 by Robert Haddan

It took 17 hours to leave the bone-chilling cold wave in Tokyo behind. After a brief layover in Doha, Qatar, we arrived in Rome to get our 40-something day adventure through Europe underway. And we wasted no time in getting started!

Rome’s Colosseum was built in the first century A.D., holding an estimated 80,000 spectators for gladiator flights, war reenactment and other entertainment events. On a cold January night nearly 2,000 years later, just a few of us sat along the stone rail at the end of Via Del Serpenti to enjoy the architectural marvel in all its splendor.

The Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere is one of Rome's oldest churches. The public square in front of the church is one of the charming Trastevere districts liveliest community spaces. — The Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere is one of Rome’s oldest churches. The public square in front of the church is one of the charming Trastevere districts liveliest community spaces.

The afternoon sun made the bright earth tones of Rome's buildings glow as we crossed the Ponte Sisto bridge. I especially liked the cast of the long shadows, including the "BAR" sign on the wall opposite the alley. — The afternoon sun made the bright earth tones of Rome’s buildings glow as we crossed the Ponte Sisto bridge. I especially liked the cast of the long shadows, including the “BAR” sign on the wall opposite the alley.

The Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of Four Rivers) stands at the middle of Piazza Navona, a 15th century public square. Sant'Agnese in Agone, a 17th century Baroque church, soaks up the setting sun in the background. — The Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of Four Rivers) stands at the middle of Piazza Navona, a 15th century public square. Sant’Agnese in Agone, a 17th century Baroque church, soaks up the setting sun in the background.

The Pantheon is one of Rome's most famous architectural masterpieces... and that's saying something for a city full of them. It's been in continuous use since its completion in 128 A.D., serving as a Catholic Church since the seventh century and still holding regular services today. The rotunda is its most recognizable feature and is the largest I reinforced concrete dome in the world. — The Pantheon is one of Rome’s most famous architectural masterpieces… and that’s saying something for a city full of them. It’s been in continuous use since its completion in 128 A.D., serving as a Catholic Church since the seventh century and still holding regular services today. The rotunda is its most recognizable feature and is the largest I reinforced concrete dome in the world.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe