Day 25: Zaanse Schans

The Houseman at sunset.

 

When I think of Holland, the image of wooden shoes and windmills come to mind. Amsterdam hints at it through its many souvenir stands, but there are places where the idyllic scenery of old Holland still exists.

One such place is Zaanse Schans, a neighborhood in the Amsterdam suburb of Zaandam. A short train ride from Amsterdam Centraal, the river town has worked hard to retain some of 17th century Holland, even as it is surrounded by modernity.

While everyone headed across the bridge to the village created specifically for tourists, we stayed on the near side of the Zaan River and walked through the old neighborhood. Restored homes proudly display their original construction dates from the 1600-1700s. Very few of the buildings had been taken over by commerce as usually happens in these kinds of places. These houses are still homes.

We stopped into a chocolate shop called Chocolaterie de Boom and had a glass of hot chocolate. The city was once home to 15 cocoa mills and, although only two large cocoa mills remain today, the neighborhood still smells like chocolate. It’s literally in the air.

On the opposite side of the river, most of the city’s eight remaining windmills invite visitors to see what life looked like pre-Industrial Revolution. With names like The Cat, The Ox and The Spotted Hen, some of the mills even perform the same function as they did nearly 500 years ago. Het Jong Schaap (The Young Sheep) is an active sawmill that offers tours for just a few euros.

We ended our day at the tourist village, which had mostly closed down for the day. Here visitors can see chocolate being made or watch a craftsman make the aforementioned wooden clogs. But the real charm of Zaanse Schans comes by walking along the river and imagining life in old Holland.


De Bleeke Dood, or The Pale Death is the first mill you come to from the train station, marking the bridge over the Zaan River.
De Bleeke Dood, or The Pale Death is the first mill you come to from the train station, marking the bridge over the Zaan River.

Hot chocolate at Chocolaterie de Boom. Pieces of dark chocolate were placed in the glass with hot milk poured over them. When we were ready, we mixed the chocolate in with a teaspoon. Wonderful!
Hot chocolate at Chocolaterie de Boom. Pieces of dark chocolate were placed in the glass with hot milk poured over them. When we were ready, we mixed the chocolate in with a teaspoon. Wonderful!

The Young Sheep, a sawmill, as seen from the opposite side of the Zaan River.
The Young Sheep, a sawmill, as seen from the opposite side of the Zaan River.

The old homes of Zaanse Schans date back to the 1600s.
The old homes of Zaanse Schans date back to the 1600s.

From right to left, The Young Sheep (sawmill), The Seeker (oil mill), The Houseman (mustard mill), The Cat (dye mill) and The Crowned Poelenburg (sawmill).
From right to left, The Young Sheep (sawmill), The Seeker (oil mill), The Houseman (mustard mill), The Cat (dye mill) and The Crowned Poelenburg (sawmill).

The Cat at sunset.
The Cat at sunset.

A bike path runs along the east side of the Zaan River, offering a convenient way to view the windmills.
A bike path runs along the east side of the Zaan River, offering a convenient way to view the windmills.

Zaanse Schans windmills.
Zaanse Schans windmills.

Zaanse Schans windmills.
Zaanse Schans windmills.

The Houseman at sunset.
The Houseman at sunset.

Zaanse Schans windmills.
Zaanse Schans windmills.

The old houses in the tourist village have mostly been imported from around the area beginning in the 1960s.
The old houses in the tourist village have mostly been imported from around the area beginning in the 1960s.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe

Day 23: Amsterdam

“The Queen ate here,” says Bob of Bob’s Vlaamse Frituur, a french fry stand in Amsterdam’s famous Albert Cuyp Market.

He nodded toward a photo hanging in his booth. We expected to see the instantly-recognizable Queen Elizabeth of England, but this is The Netherlands and they have their own royal family. He proudly recalled the time she visited and we tried to keep our enthusiasm at Queen of England levels.

We arrived in Amsterdam late afternoon and immediately headed for the market, which was only 20 minutes away from closing for the day. Many of the stalls were still open and the market would become a daily starting point for our adventures into the streets of Holland’s capital city.

Amsterdam may be best known for its Red Light District and legalized drug use, but these sordid details make up a very small part of the city. The public areas—parks, plazas and markets—are vast and lively. There’s a charm to the bicycle traffic, which easily outnumbers the automobiles. Dodging the bikes and the trams is an art form all its own.

The architecture is brilliant. The old-world charm hasn’t been lost, even as modern-day life takes place in and around. Cafes dating to the 1600s are still in operation. Many of the narrow brick buildings have sinking foundations, their forward-list apparent next to their tightly-packed neighbors.

We continued to explore the streets, eventually stumbling upon Museumplein. The large park is flanked by the definitive Van Gogh Museum and Rijksmuseum with its collection of Rembrandt and Chagal works. But the most popular draw that night was the frozen-over pond being used as an ice skating rink. Nearby, tourists posed for photos on and around the “Iamsterdam” sign (I am Amsterdam… Get it?).

After the sun went down, we wandered up and down the canals that separate the city’s neighborhoods. Tourist boats were few and far between. Instead, houseboats were anchored along the banks. Small rowboats were tethered nearby. The canels aren’t just part of Amsterdam’s neighborhoods, they are the neighborhoods.


Click any photo in the gallery to see a larger version and start a slideshow view

 


Click any photo in the gallery to see a larger version and start a slideshow view

 


Click any photo in the gallery to see a larger version and start a slideshow view

 


Bicycle parking in Amsterdam.
Bicycle parking in Amsterdam.

These kids were doing goofy things kids do, so when Viktoria asked to take their picture, they just kept on being kids.
These kids were doing goofy things kids do, so when Viktoria asked to take their picture, they just kept on being kids.

Click any photo in the gallery to see a larger version and start a slideshow view


More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe