When we visited Halong Bay on the second day of Intrepid Travel’s “Explore Vietnam” tour, I didn’t really know what to expect. I have to admit, it was a pleasant surprise.
“Halong” roughly means “descending dragon” in ancient Vietnamese, leading to the mythological story of the creation of the nearly 2,000 limestone peaks rising out of the water. The entire area was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994. Archeological findings show humans lived in the area as early as 18,000 BC.
We left for Halong Bay during Hanoi’s morning rush hour. High taxes on automobiles make scooters and motorbikes the preferred mode of transportation among the nearly 3 million Hanoians.Along the way, we stopped for coffee and a quick tour of a small pottery and ceramics manufacturing company. A small area in the shade of the large vases was set aside as a break area. A low, narrow bench provided a place to sit and have tea or a smoke from a điếu cày (farmer’s pipe), basically a giant bong used with very powerful tobacco.Inside, a woman puts the finishing touches on one of the ceramic bowls. She worked quickly and precisely, creating a unique scene on each piece.Immediately upon arriving in Halong City, we boarded a boat and set course for a harbor on Bo Hon Island. The view back to the city over the Gulf of Tonkin was magnificent.Inside the limestone was a surprise… Sung Sot Cave (literally Surprise Cave). After climbing several stairs in Vietnam humidity, we descended a few steps inside the cave, when the area opened up into a theater of geology. Stalactites and stalagmites, natural hot springs and rock formations capturing the imagination (“doesn’t that one look like like a lion?”). In the late 1990s, the Chinese helped to install a pathway and colorful lighting to “enhance” the experience for tourists.From the overlook near the cave exit, many other tour boats joined us at the cave. A older Japanese man asked me in English where I was from. He really got a kick out of it when I answered him in Japanese and told him we lived there. Fortunately he was more interested in practicing his English than testing my Japanese!Fiddling with the nighttime settings on our new camera, I managed to capture the moon over the gulf on a cloudy evening.
More Photo of the Day posts from Taiwan, China, Hong Kong and Vietnam
On our first full day in Hanoi, we wandered the Old Quarter. With a history spanning more than 2,000 years, the streets are a living, breathing history lesson. Each street is named for the types of items sold on the ancient streetsーHang Gai (Hemp Street) is now a silk paradise while metal workers now reside in the shops of Lo Ren (Blacksmith Street).
We started the day at the Ho Chi Minh Museum, part of the Communist leader’s mausoleum complex. The museum leans heavily toward Communist propaganda, but with a conceptual art twist. The story of Vietnam during the Uncle Ho (as he’s lovingly referred to by the people) era is told through abstract sculptures and immersive pieces. It’s also full of school children who we were told visit the mausoleum annually.Uncle Ho’s Soviet counterpart, Vladimir Lenin, has his own ominous statue in a park across the street from Hanoi’s Army Museum. Workers are preparing for the 70th anniversary of Vietnam’s post-World War II independence.A woman selling vegetables on a busy street near the Old Quarter.A parked bicycle is transformed into a fruit stand on a sidewalk on the outskirts of the Old Quarter shops.The Vietnam flag flies proudly from many homes. There’s a widely accepted story about the origins of the flag, but we haven’t heard much about the conflicting accounts of that story.Another mobile fruit market attracts customers.A flower vendor sizes up a pair of bouquets for a customer on the ever-present scooterIn the afternoon, we took a street food tour through Hanoi. Our first stop was for Pho Ga Tron, made, a popular summer dish made with cold noodles, veggies and peanuts. For three hours, we ducked into various stalls, apparently-empty shops and even through a garage into the second floor of a shop/home for some of Hanoi’s best eats.Hanoi’s version of green papaya salad, a dish that’s also popular in Thailand. Our guide told us it’s called the “single woman’s snack” in Hanoi because it keeps women slim and also has bust-enhancing superpowers. Who knew?Vietnam is one of the world’s major coffee producers and they do some unique things with it. This artful drink is called egg coffee and is served with whipped egg yolk on top. It was surprisingly good!
More Photo of the Day posts from Taiwan, China, Hong Kong and Vietnam
After a week in Hong Kong, we headed west to Hanoi, Vietnam. After an easy flight, we boarded a city bus for a one-hour ride through countryside and small townsーthe only foreigners on board, although nobody seemed to notice. Soon, the roads grew more crowded and motorbikes appeared in droves as we approached Hanoi. We alighted at the final bus stop and walked through Hanoi’s Old Quarter toward our hotel. Along the way, the pace of life at dusk left our photos with blurs representative of the activity on the street.
The facades of the homes throughout northern Vietnam maintain influences from the French colonial era, while the sides of the home are often plain concrete. It’s hard not to stop and photograph each of them.We followed this balloon vendor for a few blocks as he tried to unload one of his many Minions.He finally made a sale of a red rooster!Hungry and in street food heaven, we stopped at the first banh mi stand that looked good. Banh mi is like a Vietnamese submarine sandwich, usually made with a pate spread on a fresh baguette topped with meats, shredded daikon (big white Asian radish), cilantro, jalapeños and mayo. We went with the fried egg and a couple local beers, which were served hot from a crate beside the stand.
More Photo of the Day posts from Taiwan, China, Hong Kong and Vietnam
The umbrella-lined path at Shanghai’s People’s Park is a real-life Match.com. Every weekend, the Shanghai Marriage Market draws the parents of unmarried men and women looking for a suitable match for their child. In an ever-changing China, the market is one way traditional family involvement in the matchmaking process is being preserved. China is also facing a gender gap due to the so-called “one child policy.” By 2020, studies project China will have 24 million unmarried men unable to find a female partner.
At Shanghai Museum, a young artist sketches on of the Qing-era bowls on display.A dragon head watches over the collection in Shanghai Museum’s Chinese Minority Nationalities’ Art Gallery. Artifacts from Tibet, Mongolia and others show another side of China’s past.The sign for fast-food chain Real Kungfu features a very Bruce Lee-looking character. Maybe their motto should be “Punch when you have to punch. Kick when you have to kick. Eat when you have to eat.”On our first morning in Shanghai after a rough overnight train from Xi’an, I stumbled on this street market down an alley near our hotel. The narrow market sells fresh fruits and vegetables in the morning while food stalls begin to pop up later in the day. By the third day, the lady with the kung pao tofu was serving it up before I even asked.The red chili pepper is a major component of Sichuan-style cuisine. The local market had no shortage of this key ingredient.The market was the real-deal, selling live eels, frogs and turtles. Upon completion of the customer’s order, this vendor killed and cleaned the bullfrogs right in the street.
More Photo of the Day posts from Taiwan, China, Hong Kong and Vietnam
After three days in the mountains of eastern China, the final night of our North China Getaway tour brought us back to Shanghai. Our group headed into Pudong—Shanghai’s skyscraper district—to see the skyline at night, highlighted by the dazzling light display of the Oriental Pearl Tower.
Three behemoths of the Shanghai Skyline. At left, the World Financial Center houses the world’s second-highest hotel. In the center, Jin Mao Tower was once China’s tallest building. At right, China’s current champion is Shanghai Tower, the world’s second-tallest building.
More Photo of the Day posts from Taiwan, China, Hong Kong and Vietnam
After the epic day of hiking on Huangshan, a day wandering the tranquil-ish village of Hongcun was a welcome break. Along with neighboring Xidi, it was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000 as a preserved look at rural Chinese life dating back to the 14th century. The village’s appearance is still so authentic that it was used as the backdrop for the international blockbuster Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon, set in 19th century China.
Other than the scooter speeding down the cobblestone alley, it’s easy to imagine life in feudal China as we wandered the streets of Hongcun. The duck wandered in from nearby South Lake, undeterred by the possibilities of becoming someone’s dinner.Many generations of the Wang family have lived in the village and the family temple overlooks the Crescent Moon Pond, but this scene is more famous thanks to its inclusion in the movie Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon. Also a fine example of the photobombing skills of our tour guide, Jason.Founded by the family of a Han Dynasty general, the village thrived thanks to the merchant trade. That trade continues today as villagers create art and food for the throngs of tourists who visit each day. This shop topped its simple fried tofu with different blends of spicy pepper relish—equal parts fiery and delicious.Nothing like a frozen treat on a hot and humid Chinese summer day. Viktoria snapped this photo of her pineapple pop as I caught the eye of the lady entering the background. She was really getting a kick out of the level of artistry going into the ice-sucker selfie.The angles, lighting and colors of the ancient village were a major draw for artists, many of whom lined the banks of South Lake to capture the reflection of Picturesque Bridge in the still waters.
More Photo of the Day posts from Taiwan, China, Hong Kong and Vietnam
Asia boasts some of the world’s most famous mountains, but China’s Huangshan (Yellow Mountains) remain a bit of a secret outside the country despite its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. One Chinese visitor even asked a member of our group how we learned about Huangshan, surprised to see foreigners mixed into the summer holiday crowd.
Our visit coincided with the end of the rainy season. The floating fog and mist is part of what makes Huangshan such a sight to behold, but the rainy weather made clear views of its twisted peaks a rarity.There are two ways up for tourists—a cable car ride or a 7.5 km hike—but for the supply guys, the only option is carrying it up the old-fashioned way. The prices at the top reflect the labor.
On the 1,000 meter hike from the bus station to Lotus Flower Peak, we logged more than 17,000 steps–the first 5,000 of which were straight up steep steps.At Bright Summit Peak, lovers tie padlocks to the railing and toss the key into the valley below, ensuring an eternal bond.Hiking with a few thousand of our new Chinese friends. Especially crowded due to the summer school break, we walked much of the 14 km queued up behind the masses.
More Photo of the Day posts from Taiwan, China, Hong Kong and Vietnam
One of the downsides of traveling is that you have to actually travel. Most of the 16th day of our trip was spent on a bus from Shanghai to Huangshan. Fortunately the bus was comfortable and we were loaded up with snacks from an international grocery store in Shanghai, making the nearly seven-hour trip bearable. This was the day’s only photo!
More Photo of the Day posts from Taiwan, China, Hong Kong and Vietnam
Americans routinely use words like “broke” or “poor” to describe why we can’t go out with friends, take a vacation or buy a new car. We’ve coined the hashtag of “#FirstWorldProblems” to describe many of our daily trials and tribulations. We are spoiled.
India—or more accurately, Taj Mahal—was on our short list of “must visit” places in Asia during our time in Japan. An easy 10-hour flight from Tokyo, it was more accessible than ever. But you can’t fly 10 hours to see just one thing, so we looked for help crafting the perfect itinerary. In the end, we chose Intrepid Travel‘s Delhi to Kathmandu, Nepal trip.
An alley in Central Delhi near our hotel
Our trip began in India’s capital city of Delhi. Before arriving in Delhi, phrases like “developing nation” and “extreme poverty” were buzzwords on Sunday morning political shows or keywords in a college thesis. But they weren’t real. They didn’t have faces.
Aside from well-known landmarks like Taj Mahal or the Ganges River, the reality of India is largely ambiguous in the minds of most Americans, myself included. India is an emerging power on the geopolitical landscape. It is a large landmass in the center of an unstable part of the world with an increasingly wealthy upperclass. As such, it’s an important national security ally of the United States in the fight against terrorism. It’s battling China for the title of world’s most populous country with more than 1.2 billion inhabitants.
A main street in Central Delhi. Shopkeepers clean up the sidewalks as best they can, but the trash will pile up again throughout the day.
But it’s also a country with considerable poverty. Poverty unlike anything that exists in the U.S. and certainly unlike anything I’ve seen firsthand until now. According to World Bank, India has the largest concentration of impoverished people in the world. Delhi alone is home to 22 million people in an urban area the size of Jacksonville, FL. New construction dots the city, but not fast enough to replace crumbling residential buildings and spotty infrastructure.
Looking down at a typical Delhi street scene from Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib, Delhi’s largest Sikh temple
As tourists, we’re discouraged from giving handouts of food or money. There’s a larger strategy at play to quell the national poverty problem. But try ignoring a toothless grin from an elderly lady at the train station or the children, undernourished and dressed in dirty rags, wading through traffic begging for change from passersby who drive a new Audi or Mercedes-Benz. These aren’t the guys in a Columbia jacket standing on the freeway ramp with a “Why lie, I need a beer” sign. This is real, life-and-death stuff and it’s heartbreaking.
Government propaganda encourages a “green” Delhi, yet trash piles up in the streets. An editorial in The Times of India newspaper claimed (with tongue firmly planted in cheek) that throwing trash in the street is part of the national identity. The government is also encouraging the use of toilets instead of doing business in the open. Since October 2014, a government program has provided more than 500,000 toilets in homes across the country, but is fighting a perception that indoor toilets are unhygienic.
Yet, in a situation that seems unresolvable, India is trying to move forward. The country was still buzzing from President Obama’s visit the week before we arrived. When we told people we were from America, they’d reply with a big grin and say “Obama!” More importantly, they see that the U.S. finally understands the seriousness of India’s successful development.
Today’s India is a country breaking free of an imperial past. Despite its ancient history, it’s only been independent from the British since 1947. It’s a country resetting the expectations imposed by a caste system that determines a person’s lot in life simply by the family they’re born into. There’s unprecedented access to education, yet many are still not participating, young women in particular.
My goal is that this is the last of the “book report” posts about India… our travels through the country were amazing, inspiring and enlightening. But, to present India only through the lens of its natural beauty is to do a disservice to the realities facing its people and the efforts of those who have literally given their lives in the development of the nation (Mahatma Gandhi and his daughter-in-law Indira Gandhi to name a few).
