Photo of the Day

Day 31: All the Ports of Porto

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The red roofs of Porto with the Torre dos Clérigos rising high above the rest of the city.

I opened the utensil drawer on the first day in our Airbnb apartment to find a mostly empty cutlery tray with only a wine corkscrew in it. “Porto in a nutshell” I thought. But the city famous for its sweet wine has so much more to offer.

With the sun finally breaking through for the first time in what seemed like forever, we set out early on day 31 with an ambitious agenda. We started with another stair climb, the most scenic way to climb the south side hills, to the viewpoint at Miradouro da Vitoria for a morning view of the city. Nearby, the 18th-century baroque church and city icon, Torre dos Clèrigos, soared above the tightly-packed buildings.

Opposite the park near the tower is the famous Livraria Lello & Irmão. Widely considered one of the world’s most beautiful bookstores, Lello gained additional fame when Harry Potter author J.K. Rowling revealed it as a source of inspiration for her popular novels. The architecture is stunning, beginning with the deep red staircase in the middle of the room. Natural light from the stained glass ceiling floods the the collection of both modern books and 100-year-old copies of classics. The old book cart on rails now serves as a shelf for Rowling’s many works.

Across the street, the blue-tiled churches of Igreja dos Carmelitas glistened in the sun. While they appear to be one building, they’re actually two buildings separated by one of the world’s narrowest houses. At just one meter (just over three feet) wide, it served to create a barrier between the nuns of Carmelite Church and the monks of Carmo Church and was occupied as a residence until the 1980s.

After lunch, we boarded the Heritage Tram toward the coast. The vintage cable tram cars move slowly along the Douro River with only three stops along the way. At the end of the line, the conductor manually switches the cable connector from one end of the tram to the other before making the return journey.

We alighted a few blocks away from Porto’s long stretch of Atlantic Ocean-facing beaches. The ocean air was refreshing for the lungs and the soul. We sat along the stone wall for awhile and watched the clouds roll back in. As the sky began to turn to a less-desirable shade of gray, we headed back toward the city center.

The north side of the river is known as Vila Nova de Gaia and has been home to many of Porto’s wine cellars since the 13th century. Prior to the arrival of the railroad, wine was transported in barrels from the Douro Valley to the cellars by small rowboats called Rabelos. The boats are unique to the Porto region and are now on display along the banks of the river.

We chose to tour Sandeman Cellars after reading some reviews online. For just a few euros, we received a group tour (led by “The Don,” the character in the company’s logo) of the wine cellars and a sample tasting at the end.

Sandeman is well-known in the history of the wine industry. It was the first company to put labels on the bottle identifying a wine with its producer. Later, it became the first producer to advertise, including a series of controversial art-nouveau posters.

We made some new friends that night as well. At the cellar tasting, we sat next to a older couple from London, our next destination. The woman was originally from Japan, so we had some interesting stories to share. They gave us a few tips of things to see and do on the next leg of our trip.

On the way back to our apartment, a drunken group of German futbol fans asked us to take a photo of them. The team from Dortmund was in town to play FC Porto and they traveled well, overflowing the riverside bars and singing team songs. The ringleader asked where we were from. When I replied “the U.S.,” he shouted “I love Donald Trump!” and everyone had a good laugh.

View from Miradouro da Vitoria.
View from Miradouro da Vitoria.
Torre dos Clèrigos.
Torre dos Clèrigos.

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Igreja dos Carmelitas.
Igreja dos Carmelitas.
The Porto Heritage Tram.
The Porto Heritage Tram.
Fishing boats in the Douro River near the mouth of the Atlantic Ocean.
Fishing boats in the Douro River near the mouth of the Atlantic Ocean.
A Rabelo boat belonging to Cockburn's Port House sits in the Douro River.
A Rabelo boat belonging to Cockburn’s Port House sits in the Douro River.

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Day 29: Mannekin Pis and the Brussels Comic Walk

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Mannekin Pis

We woke up on our last morning in Brussels with a sense of purpose. We had just three hours before leaving for the airport and had some unfinished business.

The outer walls of some of Brussels’s city center buildings are adorned with large murals by some of Belgium’s most famous comic book artists. The style, especially hose drawn in the 1970s, heavily influenced artists around the world, the results of which can still be seen today.

Started in 1991 as a colorful way to decorate the mono color streets of the city, more than 50 murals can be found throughout the city. We followed the Comic Book Trail from Grand Place to the south end of the city. It’s a bit like a treasure hunt as some are tucked away down side streets while others jump out at you.

Along the way, we crossed off the final must-see. Mannekin Pis, a 17th century sculpture of a little boy peeing into a fountain, is arguably Brussels’s most famous landmark. Considering its usage in marketing at so many shops around town, it’s a bit shocking to arrive at the fountain to find the statue standing just two-feet tall and wedged into the corner of an intersection.

His impish grin instant brings out he 12-year-old boy in all of us. A steady stream empties into the fountain below. People stop, take a picture and maybe a selfie and move on. It’s impressive and not all at the same time, but definitely light-hearted and amusing.

Mannekin has a “sister” hidden away down Impasse de la Fidélité, a small alleyway near Grand Place. Jeanneke Pis was commissioned in the 1980s and features a little girl squatting.

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Click any photo in the gallery to see a larger version and start a slideshow view

Jeanneke Pis.
Jeanneke Pis.

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Day 28: In Bruges

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The Belfry in Bruges's main square.

The historic medieval city of Bruges (Brugge), about an hour northwest of Brussels by train, is considered one the world’s most beautiful cities. The canals that run between its cobblestone streets have earned it the nickname of “Venice of the North.”

We visited on a very rainy day, which soured our experience quite a bit. We were soaked by the time we reached the park that doubles as the entrance to the old city and the weather never relented.

We did our best to capture the city, dodging raindrops and wiping the camera lens with sopping shirt tails, but could only manage a few good shots. By the time we reached the 300-foot, 750-year-old Belfry (pictured above), our Gore-Tex had been soundly defeated by Mother Nature. We cut our losses and headed back to Brussels. Bruges will have to wait until next time!

A row of houses built in the early 1700s have been restored to pristine condition.
A row of houses built in the early 1700s have been restored to pristine condition.
The Béguinage was built in the 1200s as a community for women who considered themselves devoutly religious, but did not want to become nuns. Since 1927, it's been a convent for Benedictine nuns.
The Béguinage was built in the 1200s as a community for women who considered themselves devoutly religious, but did not want to become nuns. Since 1927, it’s been a convent for Benedictine nuns.
One of the canals in Bruges that give it the moniker of "Venice of the North."
One of the canals in Bruges that give it the moniker of “Venice of the North.”
Some of the old facaded buildings that line the main square.
Some of the old facaded buildings that line the main square.
Another old neighborhood further from the town center. Many of the buildings here were built in the 1500-1600s, including a pub that celebrated its 500th anniversary in 2015.
Another old neighborhood further from the town center. Many of the buildings here were built in the 1500-1600s, including a pub that celebrated its 500th anniversary in 2015.

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Day 26: Brussels

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Monk's Stout at Moeder Lambic in Brussels.

Day 26 was a travel day with a twist. We booked bus tickets to make the short trip from Amsterdam to Brussels, Belgium. We had to split up on the crowded bus. Viktoria landed a front seat next to a lady who watched Harry Potter on her laptop. I got stuck next to a fussy baby and a giant Spaniard who, despite his best efforts, took a quarter of my seat along with his. About 10 minutes in, the driver announced that we’d be delayed about an hour due to construction.

All in all, the bus ride turned out OK. The gentle giant offered me a swig from his water bottle about halfway through the journey (which I politely declined). The fussy baby stopped crying and spent most of the journey sleeping while his young mother thumbed through her Bible. The driver announced that he’d found a detour and we’d only have a slight delay.

Once in Brussels, we turned to the business of finding our hotel and then finding food. No trip to Belgium is complete without trying waffles, frites (don’t call them french fries), local beer and handmade chocolate. We arrived during the dunch hours (halfway between lunch and dinner), so breakfast food seemed like a logical way to start checking items off the list.

Waffle cafe Peck 47 was packed on a Saturday afternoon and there was no waiting list. Seating was divvied up kill-or-be-killed style; if you see a table empty, grab it before someone else does. We ordered two savory waffles, topped with melted cheddar cheese and something called Psycho Sauce, along with two local craft beers. Everything was delicious!

We walked around the old city center for a bit, then crossed off the next item on the must-eat list. Frites may seem like french fries to the uninitiated, but there’s an art to Belgium’s favorite snack. The potatoes are sweet and yellow and are fried twice, leaving the inside soft and potato-y and the outside golden and crispy. They’re always served in a paper cone with plenty of salt and a standard choice of a dozen-and-a-half sauces. The frites at Fritland were probably the least-good of the ones we tried in Brussels, but we’re still better than most french fries I’ve ever had.

We finished up the day at the highly-recommended and very crowded Moeder Lambic, a craft beer bar featuring mostly Belgian-made brews. We tried a Troubadour Magma (a hoppish blonde), a Noir de Dottignies (a dark ale) and a Monk’s Stout (an imperial stout). Verdict: Belgian beers are the best we’ve had in Europe (but still not as good as Oregon beers!).

Frites… check! Waffles… check! Beer… check! Chocolate would have to wait for another day.

Savory waffles at Peck 47.
Savory waffles at Peck 47.
The rainy streets of Brussels. The tower of the Town Hall in Grand Place can be seen at the left.
The rainy streets of Brussels. The tower of the Town Hall in Grand Place can be seen at the left.
Our first Belgian frites at Fritland!
Our first Belgian frites at Fritland!
Troubadour Magma and Noir de Dottignies at Moeder Lambic.
Troubadour Magma and Noir de Dottignies at Moeder Lambic.
Manneken Pis, Brussels's famous 17th century statue of a little boy peeing, has been co-opted throughout town. Here, he's eating a waffle... while peeing.
Manneken Pis, Brussels’s famous 17th century statue of a little boy peeing, has been co-opted throughout town. Here, he’s eating a waffle… while peeing.
We didn't try the frites here for obvious reasons.
We didn’t try the frites here for obvious reasons.

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Day 21: A City Divided

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Berlin's East Side Gallery

For nearly 30 years, a major world city was divided in half by a concrete wall. On one side, Western-style prosperity flourished in a post-war economic boom. On the other side, people longed for freedom as they lived under the thumb of a totalitarian government.

The Berlin Wall—Berliner Mauer in German—served a dual purpose. Technically, the wall faced West Berlin, keeping the “fascists” (as East German propaganda referred to the west) from crossing into the Communist-controlled east. But ultimately, the wall kept East Berliners inside. With each escape attempt, the wall as further fortified until it became virtually impenetrable.

On our first full day in Berlin, we walked a three-mile stretch of the wall’s remains from the East Side Gallery to Brandenburg Gate. While only small stretches of the wall still exist, a double-cobblestone line traces the original position of the wall through the streets of Berlin.

East Side Gallery features works of peace and politics and has now stood as a symbol of freedom for nearly as long as the wall stood as a symbol of the Cold War. West Berliners famously used the wall as a canvas for political street art. When the wall finally fell in 1989, a project was commissioned to bring artists from all around the world to paint murals on the newly-opened border.

During the 1990s and 2000s, many of the paintings degraded due to weather or were covered by graffiti. In 2009, a new project commissioned the original artists to come back and redo sir works using more appropriate paint. Fences were added to limit the reach of vandals.

Today, the gallery is the longest stretch of the original wall in Berlin at just short of a mile. Signs detail each of the 105 paintings showing when that piece of the wall was constructed, when it fell, when it was painted and when it was restored.

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The famous sign at Checkpoint Charlie, an original border crossing between East and West Berlin is now in a museum. The checkpoint has been recreated in its original spot, complete with "American" soldiers as a tourist photo op.
The famous sign at Checkpoint Charlie, an original border crossing between East and West Berlin is now in a museum. The checkpoint has been recreated in its original spot, complete with “American” soldiers as a tourist photo op.
The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe is a far-reaching series of stone slabs with varying heights. According to documents, the memorial is "designed to produce an uneasy, confusing atmosphere, and the whole sculpture aims to represent a supposedly ordered system that has lost touch with human reason."
The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe is a far-reaching series of stone slabs with varying heights. According to documents, the memorial is “designed to produce an uneasy, confusing atmosphere, and the whole sculpture aims to represent a supposedly ordered system that has lost touch with human reason.”
Built in 1791, the Brandenburg Gate originally served as the beginning of the road from Berlin to Brandenburg City. The gate was closed off during the wall era and became a symbol of reunification when the wall finally came down in 1989.
Built in 1791, the Brandenburg Gate originally served as the beginning of the road from Berlin to Brandenburg City. The gate was closed off during the wall era and became a symbol of reunification when the wall finally came down in 1989.

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Day 20: Berlin

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A building across from the Beisselstr. train station in Berlin.

Just as it was unfair to judge Barcelona at its best, we had to be careful not to dismiss Berlin at first glance. Compared to sunny Barcelona, arriving in Berlin was quite a shock as we were greeted by below-freezing temperatures and rain mixed with snow. The boisterous crowds of tourists gave way to bone-chilled locals who all seemed to be on edge. As we arrived at the metro stop near our Airbnb apartment, we saw two people fighting in another car. Pepper spray was deployed. It wasn’t pretty.

Our apartment ended up being further away from things than we anticipated out in the eastern suburb of Wedding (pronounced Vedding), but that gave us a chance to explore the real Berlin. On a Sunday night, that means most things are closed.

The neighborhood is one of Berlin’s poorest financially, but richest in terms of diversity with 48 percent of the population made up of non-Germans, primarily Turkish immigrants. We saw this walking through the streets as we ended up at a small, family-run Turkish restaurant for dinner. Of the three tables, we occupied one and the family, sitting down for their own dinner, occupied the other two. The food and atmosphere were both great.

After dinner, we walked to Vagabund Brauerei, one of a growing number of craft breweries in Berlin. Vagabund considers the movement a renaissance instead of a trend. During the 19th century, more than 700 breweries existed in the city with a focus on the signature Berliner Weisse, a white sour beer. Today, there are around 20 craft breweries in the city, combining old German-style recipes with influences from around the globe. The IPA we ordered at Vagabund was packed with Oregon-grown hops.

Next we stopped into Simit Evi, a bakery (or konditorei) packed with people enjoying a late-night sweet. We shared a slice of cake and drooled over the other treats on display. Before heading home, we bought a loaf of bread at a small bakery. The old lady behind the counter handed us a couple of of sesame rings—also called simit in Turkish—as we headed out. So kind. So delicious!

On the way back to the apartment, we heard the familiar sound of drums. Unlike in Barcelona, these drums were accompanied by a flute. We followed the sound to the community hall where a Turkish wedding was underway. The bride and groom had just arrived and the party was headed inside. A wedding in Wedding… perfect!

Looking out the airplane window as we leave Barcelona.
Looking out the airplane window as we leave Barcelona.
The kitchen of our Airbnb has a Jackson Pollock-inspired design.
The kitchen of our Airbnb has a Jackson Pollock-inspired design.
The makali plate, a mix of fried vegetables, at the small Turkish restaurant.
The makali plate, a mix of fried vegetables, at the small Turkish restaurant.
Vagabund Braurei in Wedding's up-and-coming Leopoldplatz district.
Vagabund Braurei in Wedding’s up-and-coming Leopoldplatz district.
Cake at Simit Evi.
Cake at Simit Evi.

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Day 19: Park Güell

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The magic kingdom inside Park Güell.

A person could spend a week in Barcelona chasing the unique designs of architect Antoni Gaudí and not see everything. Of the 19 buildings designed by Gaudí, 12 are in Barcelona proper and seven make up the UNESCO World Heritage collection “Works of Antoni Gaudí.”

We didn’t intend on chasing down Gaudí’s list while in Barcelona, but we ended up seeing three up close and personal. After visiting La Sagrada Familia and Palau Güell, we finished with a day at Park Güell.

The park was another in a series of collaborations between Gaudí and Catalonian entrepreneur Eusebi Güell, intended as a place where Barcelona’s emerging upper-class could build homes and live in a community of shared ideals. For Gaudí, the bare land on Carmel Hill was a blank canvas, a place to explore his artistic tendencies toward harmony between nature and architecture.

Walking into Park Güell is akin to stepping into the board game Candy Land. The first two buildings—the Porter’s Lodge and the Porter’s House—look like they were plucked from the Gumdrop Forest with their whipped frosting roofs placed atop cake-colored brick and decorated with mosaic tile sprinkles.

From the second floor of the Porter’s Lodge, you can look down over the Dragon’s Stairway and the Hypostyle Room. The “dragon” is actually a very large sculpture of a salamander, again adorned in broken tile mosaic. The Hypostyle is a large covered area, the roof held in place by groupings of massive columns. Several large spaces were left inside with the intent of setting up a marketplace for the park’s residents.

Atop the Hypostyle’s roof, Gaudí built a public square. Plaça de la Natura is outlined by a tile-covered bench that curves in and out around the entire edge of the square. From the front edge, you can look out over Barcelona’s Gràcia district all the way to the Mediterranean Sea.

Heading downhill from the Nature Square, you walk through the crown jewel of Gaudí’s attempt to blend nature and structure. The Washerwoman Portico, named for the single carving of a woman carrying a laundry basket on her head, looks as if it could have occurred naturally. Rough, slanted stone columns frame a long, curved walkway. Standing inside the walkway, it appears as if you’re in the trough of a crashing wave.

The park surrounding the monument area is much more simple. The winding path climbs up and down Carmel Hill, offering many quiet moments in stark contrast to the busier interior. The largest crowd will be found on the top of Turó de les Tres Cruces—Hill of Three Crosses—chasing a free view of the city.

With less than 24 hours remaining in Barcelona, we headed for the city’s famous beaches. After a couple cool and drizzly days, the weather gods smiled upon us with a sunny, 70 degree day and the locals and tourists alike were taking advantage. Barceloneta, the main beach along the coastline, was full of sunsoakers, bicyclists, joggers and even rollerbladers (can’t remember the last time I saw an unironic rollerblader in the US). We caught the sunset as it faded away from the Mediterranean and headed back toward the city.

After one last tapas dinner, we worked our way through the Gothic Quarter back toward our apartment when the sound of drums caught our attention once again. We wandered into the parade of Correfoc dels Diables Petits or Fireworks of the Little Devils.

Kids of all ages, dressed in devil costumes and trailed by large bands of drummers, ran down the side of La Ramblas carrying sticks with sparking fireworks attached to the top. When lit by a “responsible” adult, the firework would spin atop the stick, sending a shower of sparks flying into the crowd.

We watched for a few minutes before letting go of Barcelona and heading back to our apartment. The sound of drums and general cheer carried on until early the next morning; a great way to remember our time in Catalonia.

The Porter's Lodge at Park Güell.
The Porter’s Lodge at Park Güell.
The salamander statue on the Dragon's Stairway at Park Güell.
The salamander statue on the Dragon’s Stairway at Park Güell.
Looking down from Plaça de la Natura at the Porter's Lodge and House. The district of Gràcia and the Mediterranean Sea can be seen in the distance.
Looking down from Plaça de la Natura at the Porter’s Lodge and House. The district of Gràcia and the Mediterranean Sea can be seen in the distance.
The Portico of the Washerwoman.
The Portico of the Washerwoman.
The street-facing side of the Porter's Lodge.
The street-facing side of the Porter’s Lodge.
The sunset from Barceloneta.
The sunset from Barceloneta.

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Day 18: Festival of Saint Eulalia

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Saint Eulalia, or Laie, wades through the crowds at the end of the procession through the narrow city streets.

It’s not entirely fair to fall in love with a city when it is at its best, but those are cards we were dealt with Barcelona. The already-lively capital of Catalonia was flooded with summertime levels of tourists thanks to the weeklong celebration of Les Festes de Santa Eulàlia.

Saint Eulalia earned her sainthood at age 13 after being tortured by the Romans for refusing to renounce her religion. The festival that honors her focuses on events for and involving children.

We could hear the procession of drums from a block away outside our window on the second morning of the festival. We gulped down the rest of our breakfast, threw on some shoes and chased after the party. While we never caught up with the parade, we did catch the pinnacle of the Diada Castellera, the building of human pyramids, performed by Els Falcons de Barcelona. The pyramid peaked at nine rows, with each row of people getting younger and younger until finally a boy of maybe 6 or 7-years-old caught his balance atop the mass of humanity.

After lunch in the quirky Plaça de George Orwell—named in honor of the English writer who joined Spain’s Independent Labor Party and fought during the Spanish Civil War—we visited another of architect Antoni Gaudí’s masterpieces, Palau Güell.

Part of the UNESCO collection of Gaudí’s works around Barcelona, the mansion was designed for industrialist Eusebi Güell in the 1880s. The home is situated in the middle of a neighborhood of shops and apartments, but the understated facade doesn’t seem entirely out of place save for the large, arched doors with their intricate cast-iron work, a Gaudí signature.

Once inside, the scope of what Gaudí accomplished on the small footprint of land begins to take shape. A large stable sits below ground for the horses who would pull carriages from the street-level entrance. The great room has a soaring spire for a ceiling with perforations meant to invoke the feeling of being under the stars. The perfectly arranged architectural elements throughout create both space and comfort.

The more eccentric pieces of Gaudí’s work were saved for the outside. The wooden shades on the back bay windows recall steampunk design. On the roof, 20 chimneys covered in brightly-colored mosaic tile rise like a technicolor forest. The near-360° views of Barcelona are impressive.

That evening, we headed back into town toward Plaça de Sant Jaume where a small orchestra was set up on the stage. Barcelona’s older population had gathered, creating large dance circles. While the music played, everyone in the circle held hands and performed a simple box step dance that became more intense as the music crescendoed. When the song finished, everyone would cheer, greetings were exchanged and everyone moved on to another circle to begin the next dance with new neighbors.

Soon, the festival’s main event got underway with The Walk and Dance of Laie. The giant puppets we saw on our first day lined up in Plaça de Pi, giving festival goers a chance to see the gegantes up close. Local volunteers served sweet bread and warm chocolate pudding to anyone who was interested.

The puppet crew then mounted up, climbing underneath the puppets, and started the procession through town toward Plaça de Sant Jaume where they waded through the tightly-packed crowd.

The event ended with a light show broadcast on the city hall building, kicking off the second-half of the evening. LLUM BCN featured light installations at 21 different locations throughout the Gothic Quarter. The lines were a hundred deep at each, so we just watched from afar.

We finished our night in true Barcelona fashion, settling in for tapas around 10 p.m. before making our way home for the night. Barcelona was quickly moving up our list of favorite places in the world.

A bridge between two buildings as we approached Plaça de Sant Jaume in Barcelona's Gothic Quarter.
A bridge between two buildings as we approached Plaça de Sant Jaume in Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter.

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Our lunchtime view in Placa de George Orwell. The English author joined the Spanish militia in the 1930s to fight fascism in Barcelona, an era he chronicled in his book Homage to Catalonia.
Our lunchtime view in Placa de George Orwell. The English author joined the Spanish militia in the 1930s to fight fascism in Barcelona, an era he chronicled in his book Homage to Catalonia.
The bay windows at Palau Güell.
The bay windows at Palau Güell.
The extravagant interior at Palau Güell.
The extravagant interior at Palau Güell.
The roof of Palau Güell with mosaic tile work on the chimney and the Güell name written in ironwork on the rail.
The roof of Palau Güell with mosaic tile work on the chimney and the Güell name written in ironwork on the rail.
The main spire at Palau Güell acts as a ventilation system and lets natural light enter the house.
The main spire at Palau Güell acts as a ventilation system and lets natural light enter the house.
Dancing in Plaça de Sant Jaume.
Dancing in Plaça de Sant Jaume.
The Festival of Saint Eulalia in Barcelona, Spain.
The Festival of Saint Eulalia in Barcelona, Spain.
One of the 21 light installations that made up the LLUM BCN Festival.
One of the 21 light installations that made up the LLUM BCN Festival.

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Day 17: La Sagrada Familia

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La Sagrada Familia in Barcelona.

Being a lifelong Spanish student and teacher, I had always heard about the Basílica of the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona and I certainly had an idea of Gaudí’s life works and contributions to Barcelona. But, as we’ve been on the road a couple of weeks and seen many cathedrals, including St. Peter’s in the Vatican and Notre Dame in Paris, we were coming into Barcelona a little wary of touring yet another church. How good could it be, we wondered.

On a rainy Thursday, we purchased our tickets online and set off. Neither of us had looked at pictures online or had any idea what to expect. In retrospect, I’m glad because pictures (including ours) don’t do it justice.

Coming out of the metro, the cathedral was behind us. The first glimpse was…wow, immense, where the hell are we? Is this really our life right now? (A question asked frequently in the last few weeks). I’ve heard the towers described as “bony” and “melting ice cream cones” and both seem somehow appropriate. It was drizzling when we arrived, which I think helped with the crowds. We walked right through the reserved online tickets entrance. So far, so great!

After taking in the exterior facade, we walked through the ornate doorway. I was instantly transfixed. The white, scalloped columns extending upwards (towards Heaven?) first caught my eye. And the play with color and light. Gaudí was not afraid of color; my kind of man. The inside is so special. Like a dream.

To the right, is Christ on a cross, suspended under a lighted halo of an “umbrella.” To one side is Mary and the other, Joseph. The three comprise the Holy/Sacred Family, also known as the Sagrada Familia.

A little bit into our audio tour, we stopped to take in the main altar, which includes the aforementioned trio. I found a quiet place nestled in a column facing the front. The organ music. The light. The color. The shapes. The height. It was just too much. I burst into tears. Happy tears. There are places in the world that remind you how small we are, how fragile life is and how unimportant our problems really are. I was so moved.

We spent about four hours in the church and I could have spent more. We stayed until closing when everyone had left and just took in the silence. Finally, about 20 minutes after six, we were ushered out. We took a brief detour to the crypt of the church, which was still open to the public. This is where Mass is held for Catholic Church goers and it includes the tomb of Antoni Gaudí.

I can’t wait to come back in 2026, when the exterior construction of the church will be finished. Though the inside is the real treasure.

Looking toward the main alter.
Looking toward the main altar.
Looking up at the unfinished tower above the main alter.
Looking up at the unfinished tower above the main altar.
The sunlight shines through the various colors of stained glass creates a prism inside the cathedral. Gaudi made sure light would play a major role in the design of La Sagrada Familia.
The sunlight shines through the various colors of stained glass creates a prism inside the cathedral. Gaudi made sure light would play a major role in the design of La Sagrada Familia.
The columns holding up the roof were designed to look like trees with the ceiling decor resembling palm fronds.
The columns holding up the roof were designed to look like trees with the ceiling decor resembling palm fronds.
Stained glass on the left side of the cathedral.
Stained glass on the left side of the cathedral.
The cathedral is still a work in progress, as it has been since 1882. The stained glass has yet to be installed on the circular windows beside the alter.
The cathedral is still a work in progress, as it has been since 1882. The stained glass has yet to be installed on the circular windows beside the altar.
Outside, the neo-gothic cathedral reflects in the windows of the modern souvenir shop.
Outside, the neo-gothic cathedral reflects in the windows of the modern souvenir shop.

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Day 16: Barcelona

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Barcelona's El Prat airport.

Our week in Paris ended at an obscene hour as our alarm began its painful chime at 4 a.m. We successfully navigated two bus transfers and managed to see a nearly-unobstructed view of the Arc de Triomphe (there’s still quite a bit of traffic on Champs-Élysées at 5 a.m.) en route to the airport. We watched the sunrise as we boarded our flight to Barcelona.

The early morning flight meant we had a few hours to pass before checking into our Airbnb. We stashed our bags in a local locker facility, grabbed lunch and headed out on the town, starting on La Rambla.

La Rambla is the main drag for tourists in Barcelona. The tree- and vendor-lined pedestrian street runs for a mile from Plaça de Catalunya to a monument of Christopher Columbus looking out over the Mediterranean Sea.

Our first stop was the La Virreina Image Centre. We lucked out in our timing, arriving on the weekend of the hugely popular Festival of Saint Eulalia. The center was displaying the giant puppets that would walk the streets of Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter in just a couple nights. Upstairs, an exhibition of Albert Serra’s SINGULARITY featured eight rooms, each with part of a film playing. It was weird…

Along the way, we stopped into the Mercado de La Boqueria, a sprawling food market with butcher shops, seafood stands and sit-down restaurant stalls. If you can’t find it here, you probably don’t need it.

By early afternoon, our apartment was ready and we met our host in the El Rambla neighborhood near the El Gat sculpture by Fernando Botero. Botero’s fat cat has been a Barcelona mainstay since 1987, but moved around town trying to find a home. The statue, which is the size of a midsize sedan, finally found its permanent place in 2003 and has become a popular meeting place for the locals.

The early flight caught up with us and we bookended our day by watching the sunset from our balcony before calling it an early night… the only one we would have in Barcelona.

Sunrise at Paris's Beauvais Airport.
Sunrise at Paris’s Beauvais Airport.
The gigantes y cabezudos (giants and big heads) of Barcelona would be featured throughout the weekend during the Festival of Saint Eulalia.
The gigantes y cabezudos (giants and big heads) of Barcelona would be featured throughout the weekend during the Festival of Saint Eulalia.
Me and the giants for some perspective.
Me and the giants for some perspective.
The banner for the Festival of Saint Eulalia.
The banner for the Festival of Saint Eulalia.
Barcelona loves its futbol team! Barça, Barça, Baaarça!
Barcelona loves its futbol team! Barça, Barça, Baaarça!
The entryway to Mercado de La Boqueria.
The entryway to Mercado de La Boqueria.
A small fruit and vegetable market set up behind Mercado de La Boqueria.
A small fruit and vegetable market set up behind Mercado de La Boqueria.
El Gat, Barcelona's favorite fat cat.
El Gat, Barcelona’s favorite fat cat.
Sunset on our first night in Barcelona.
Sunset on our first night in Barcelona.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe