Day 31: Halong Bay

When we visited Halong Bay on the second day of Intrepid Travel’s “Explore Vietnam” tour, I didn’t really know what to expect. I have to admit, it was a pleasant surprise.

“Halong” roughly means “descending dragon” in ancient Vietnamese, leading to the mythological story of the creation of the nearly 2,000 limestone peaks rising out of the water. The entire area was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994. Archeological findings show humans lived in the area as early as 18,000 BC. 


We left for Halong Bay during Hanoi's morning rush hour. High taxes on automobiles make scooters and motorbikes the preferred mode of transportation among the nearly 3 million Hanoians.
We left for Halong Bay during Hanoi’s morning rush hour. High taxes on automobiles make scooters and motorbikes the preferred mode of transportation among the nearly 3 million Hanoians.

Along the way, we stopped for coffee and a quick tour of a small pottery and ceramics manufacturing company. A small area in the shade of the large vases was set aside as a break area. A low, narrow bench provided a place to sit and have tea or a smoke from a điếu cày (farmer's pipe), basically a giant bong used with very powerful tobacco.
Along the way, we stopped for coffee and a quick tour of a small pottery and ceramics manufacturing company. A small area in the shade of the large vases was set aside as a break area. A low, narrow bench provided a place to sit and have tea or a smoke from a điếu cày (farmer’s pipe), basically a giant bong used with very powerful tobacco.

Inside, a woman puts the finishing touches on one of the ceramic bowls. She worked quickly and precisely, creating a unique scene on each piece.
Inside, a woman puts the finishing touches on one of the ceramic bowls. She worked quickly and precisely, creating a unique scene on each piece.

Immediately upon arriving in Halong City, we boarded a boat and set course for a harbor on Bo Hon Island. The view back to the city over the Gulf of Tonkin was magnificent.
Immediately upon arriving in Halong City, we boarded a boat and set course for a harbor on Bo Hon Island. The view back to the city over the Gulf of Tonkin was magnificent.

Inside the limestone was a surprise... Sung Sot Cave (literally Surprise Cave). After climbing several stairs in Vietnam humidity, we descended a few steps inside the cave, when the area opened up into a theater of geology. Stalactites and stalagmites, natural hot springs and rock formations capturing the imagination.
Inside the limestone was a surprise… Sung Sot Cave (literally Surprise Cave). After climbing several stairs in Vietnam humidity, we descended a few steps inside the cave, when the area opened up into a theater of geology. Stalactites and stalagmites, natural hot springs and rock formations capturing the imagination (“doesn’t that one look like like a lion?”). In the late 1990s, the Chinese helped to install a pathway and colorful lighting to “enhance” the experience for tourists.

From the overlook near the cave exit, many other tour boats joined us at the cave. A older Japanese man asked me in English where I was from. He really got a kick out of it when I answered him in Japanese and told him we lived there. Fortunately he was more interested in practicing his English than testing my Japanese!
From the overlook near the cave exit, many other tour boats joined us at the cave. A older Japanese man asked me in English where I was from. He really got a kick out of it when I answered him in Japanese and told him we lived there. Fortunately he was more interested in practicing his English than testing my Japanese!

Fiddling with the nighttime settings on our new camera, I managed to capture the moon over the gulf on a cloudy evening.
Fiddling with the nighttime settings on our new camera, I managed to capture the moon over the gulf on a cloudy evening.

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Day 30: Hanoi’s Old Quarter

On our first full day in Hanoi, we wandered the Old Quarter. With a history spanning more than 2,000 years, the streets are a living, breathing history lesson. Each street is named for the types of items sold on the ancient streetsーHang Gai (Hemp Street) is now a silk paradise while metal workers now reside in the shops of Lo Ren (Blacksmith Street). 


We started the day at the Ho Chi Minh Museum, part of the Communist leader's mausoleum complex. The museum leans heavily toward Communist propaganda, but with a conceptual art twist. The story of Vietnam during the Uncle Ho (as he's lovingly referred to by the people) era is told through abstract sculptures and immersive pieces. It's also full of school children who we were told visit the mausoleum annually.
We started the day at the Ho Chi Minh Museum, part of the Communist leader’s mausoleum complex. The museum leans heavily toward Communist propaganda, but with a conceptual art twist. The story of Vietnam during the Uncle Ho (as he’s lovingly referred to by the people) era is told through abstract sculptures and immersive pieces. It’s also full of school children who we were told visit the mausoleum annually.

Uncle Ho's Soviet counterpart, Vladimir Lenin, has his own ominous statue in a park across the street from Hanoi's Army Museum. Workers are preparing for the 70th anniversary of Vietnam's post-World War II independence.
Uncle Ho’s Soviet counterpart, Vladimir Lenin, has his own ominous statue in a park across the street from Hanoi’s Army Museum. Workers are preparing for the 70th anniversary of Vietnam’s post-World War II independence.

A woman selling vegetables on a busy street near the Old Quarter.
A woman selling vegetables on a busy street near the Old Quarter.

A parked bicycle is transformed into a fruit stand on a sidewalk on the outskirts of the Old Quarter shops.
A parked bicycle is transformed into a fruit stand on a sidewalk on the outskirts of the Old Quarter shops.

The Vietnam flag flies proudly from many homes. There's a widely accepted story about the origins of the flag, but we haven't heard much about the conflicting accounts of that story.
The Vietnam flag flies proudly from many homes. There’s a widely accepted story about the origins of the flag, but we haven’t heard much about the conflicting accounts of that story.

Another mobile fruit market attracts customers.
Another mobile fruit market attracts customers.

A flower vendor sizes up a pair of bouquets for a customer on the ever-present scooter
A flower vendor sizes up a pair of bouquets for a customer on the ever-present scooter

In the afternoon, we took a street food tour through Hanoi. Our first stop was for Pho Ga Tron, made, a popular summer dish made with cold noodles, veggies and peanuts. For three hours, we ducked into various stalls, apparently-empty shops and even through a garage into the second floor of a shop/home for some of Hanoi's best eats.
In the afternoon, we took a street food tour through Hanoi. Our first stop was for Pho Ga Tron, made, a popular summer dish made with cold noodles, veggies and peanuts. For three hours, we ducked into various stalls, apparently-empty shops and even through a garage into the second floor of a shop/home for some of Hanoi’s best eats.

Hanoi's version of green papaya salad, a dish that's also popular in Thailand.
Hanoi’s version of green papaya salad, a dish that’s also popular in Thailand. Our guide told us it’s called the “single woman’s snack” in Hanoi because it keeps women slim and also has bust-enhancing superpowers. Who knew?

Vietnam is one of the world's major coffee producers and they do some unique things with it. This artful drink is called egg coffee and is served with whipped egg yolk on top. It was surprisingly good!
Vietnam is one of the world’s major coffee producers and they do some unique things with it. This artful drink is called egg coffee and is served with whipped egg yolk on top. It was surprisingly good!

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Day 29: Hanoi in Motion

After a week in Hong Kong, we headed west to Hanoi, Vietnam. After an easy flight, we boarded a city bus for a one-hour ride through countryside and small townsーthe only foreigners on board, although nobody seemed to notice. Soon, the roads grew more crowded and motorbikes appeared in droves as we approached Hanoi. We alighted at the final bus stop and walked through Hanoi’s Old Quarter toward our hotel. Along the way, the pace of life at dusk left our photos with blurs representative of the activity on the street.


The facades of the homes throughout northern Vietnam maintain influences from the French colonial era, while the sides of the home are often plain concrete. It's hard not to stop and photograph each of them.
The facades of the homes throughout northern Vietnam maintain influences from the French colonial era, while the sides of the home are often plain concrete. It’s hard not to stop and photograph each of them.

We followed this balloon vendor for a few blocks as he tried to unload one of his many Minions.
We followed this balloon vendor for a few blocks as he tried to unload one of his many Minions.

He finally made a sale of a red rooster!
He finally made a sale of a red rooster!

Hungry and in street food heaven, we stopped at the first banh mi stand that looked good. Banh mi is like a Vietnamese submarine sandwich, usually made with a pate spread on a fresh baguette topped with meats, shredded daikon (big white Asian radish), cilantro, jalapeños and mayo. We went with the fried egg and a couple local beers, which were served hot from a crate beside the stand.
Hungry and in street food heaven, we stopped at the first banh mi stand that looked good. Banh mi is like a Vietnamese submarine sandwich, usually made with a pate spread on a fresh baguette topped with meats, shredded daikon (big white Asian radish), cilantro, jalapeños and mayo. We went with the fried egg and a couple local beers, which were served hot from a crate beside the stand.

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Day 28: Hong Kong Walking Tour

The colorful stalls of the Mong Kok Ladies’ Market in Kowloon, Hong Kong. In addition to the typical tourist finds, there’s also a very large collection of “copy” designer handbags, watches, electronics and clothing.  Some fakes are obvious while others don’t even bother changing the brand name. In many cases, the products come from organized crime groups. Hong Kong Police have been working to clean up the markets, but tourist demand continues to drive the supply.


On our last full day in Hong King, we followed Lonely Planet's walking tour of the Central district. The Old Supreme Court Building was originally built in 1900, designed by the same British architects responsible for the famous eastern front of Buckingham Palace. It served as the home of Hong Kong's Supreme Court and later it's Legislative Council. During World War II, the occupying Japanese forces used it as a home for the military police.
On our last full day in Hong King, we followed Lonely Planet’s walking tour of the Central district. The Old Supreme Court Building was originally built in 1900, designed by the same British architects responsible for the famous eastern front of Buckingham Palace. It served as the home of Hong Kong’s Supreme Court and later it’s Legislative Council. During World War II, the occupying Japanese forces used it as a home for the military police.

The iconic Bank of China Tower (left) was designed by famous American architect I.M. Pei and was the first building outside of North America to top 1,000 feet. It also is a featured player in the Symphony of Lights show we saw on our first night in HK.
The iconic Bank of China Tower (left) was designed by famous American architect I.M. Pei and was the first building outside of North America to top 1,000 feet. It also is a featured player in the Symphony of Lights show we saw on our first night in HK.

This awesome mural captures the essence of Central, if Central were populated by giant pandas.
This awesome mural captures the essence of Central, if Central were populated by giant pandas.

A lucky shot from Cheung Kong Park goes all the way down to Victoria Harbor, catching a
A lucky shot from Cheung Kong Park goes all the way down to Victoria Harbor, catching a “Ding Ding” (double-decker tram, named for the sound of its bell), the blindfolded Justice statue atop the Old Supreme Court Building and the Hong Kong Observation Wheel along the way.

  


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Day 27: Lamma Island

Lamma Island is only a short ferry ride from Hong Kong’s bustling Central District, but offers a much more laid-back vibe. There are two main villages on the island; the southern village of Sok Kwu Wan (pictured) is home to Hong Kong’s farm fishing industry and several popular seafood restaurants. 


Fishermen greet the ferries in the northern village of Yung Shue Wan. The village is full of tourist shops and restaurants, but also homes and daily-need shops, like hardware stores. While walking through the streets, I thought it must be odd to share space in your daily life with hundreds of tourists every day, but such is life on Lamma.
Fishermen greet the ferries in the northern village of Yung Shue Wan. The village is full of tourist shops and restaurants, but also homes and daily-need shops, like hardware stores. While walking through the streets, I thought it must be odd to share space in your daily life with hundreds of tourists every day, but such is life on Lamma.

Fishermen greet the ferries in the northern village of Yung Shue Wan. The village is full of tourist shops and restaurants, but also homes and daily-need shops, like hardware stores. While walking through the streets, I thought it must be odd to share space in your daily life with hundreds of tourists every day, but such is life on Lamma.
Rapunzel found herself tangled in a tree at a Lamma Island hat shop.

The easy-to-follow path around Lamma Island is about four miles (seven kilometers) and passes two beaches. The first one was packed with tourists, but our patience paid off as the second had fewer people, nice shade and great swimming.
The easy-to-follow path around Lamma Island is about four miles (seven kilometers) and passes two beaches. The first one was packed with tourists, but our patience paid off as the second had fewer people, nice shade and great swimming.

I'm kind of a nerd for modern windmills, so I was pretty excited that Lamma Winds, Hong King's first wind turbine, was open to the public. It was a bit like a horror movie standing directly below the blades as they came slashing down. While the logical part of my brain knew they weren't going to hit me, the personal safety part of my brain got my pulse racing a bit. Also, the name Lamma Winds sounds like it should belong to a casino.
I’m kind of a nerd for modern windmills, so I was pretty excited that Lamma Winds, Hong King’s first wind turbine, was open to the public. It was a bit like a horror movie standing directly below the blades as they came slashing down. While the logical part of my brain knew they weren’t going to hit me, the personal safety part of my brain got my pulse racing a bit. Also, the name Lamma Winds sounds like it should belong to a casino.

Tillamook Cheese, made on the Oregon coast for more than 100 years, is pretty popular across the U.S., but it's still a surprise to see it abroad. We found a nice selection at one of the many international grocery stores in the downtown area. The little loaves were between $5.50-6.00 U.S.
Tillamook Cheese, made on the Oregon coast for more than 100 years, is pretty popular across the U.S., but it’s still a surprise to see it abroad. We found a nice selection at one of the many international grocery stores in the downtown area. The little loaves were between $5.50-6.00 U.S.

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Day 26: Stanley Market

The major street markets in Hong Kong are mostly a variation on a theme… fake designer watches and bags, Chinese-style chachkies and miscellaneous electronics. The hawkers are aggressive and more than willing to make a deal.

The market in Stanley, a beach town on the southern part of Hong Kong Island, offers a nice break from the city markets. We expected heavy crowds on a Saturday, but the streets were pretty quiet. The shopkeepers had quite a bit more variety in their shops and were a lot more hands off. For a more laid-back open-air market experience, Stanley Market is a great choice.


St. Stephen's Beach is just a short walk to the south from Stanley Market. With lots of shade from trees, it was perfect for a long afternoon of lounging. We bought a couple bamboo mats and a couple bottles of beer and whiled away the afternoon.
St. Stephen’s Beach is just a short walk to the south from Stanley Market. With lots of shade from trees, it was perfect for a long afternoon of lounging. We bought a couple bamboo mats and a couple bottles of beer and whiled away the afternoon.

These kids were splashing around in the shallow surf, occasionally coming up with a small fish. The boy was running toward his mother, excited to show off his bag of new pets.
These kids were splashing around in the shallow surf, occasionally coming up with a small fish. The boy was running toward his mother, excited to show off his bag of new pets.

On the way back to the city, we tracked down dinner at Happy Veggies. The food was delicious, but the vibe was even better. Happy Veggies actively recruits its employees from the local Deaf community and uses its profits to support local causes. The menu even had a whole page listing different types of special orders and options (
On the way back to the city, we tracked down dinner at Happy Veggies. The food was delicious, but the vibe was even better. Happy Veggies actively recruits its employees from the local Deaf community and uses its profits to support local causes. The menu even had a whole page listing different types of special orders and options (“more spicy,” “no oil”) that we could point at. Both the staff and customers seemed to be having a great time.

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 Day 25: The Big Buddha

Over the past couple years, giant Buddha statues have become a must-see in our travels. The Great Buddha of Kamakura, the massive Reclining Buddha in Bangkok, and now the Tian Tan Buddha of Lantau Island.

I have to admit, I felt a little cheated when I learned that it was built in the 1990s, but the impressive size made up for it. At 112 feet tall, it can be seen from Macau on the Chinese mainland, about 25 miles away.


Within a minute of stepping off the bus in Ngong Ping Village, a group of fellow tourists stopped to take a picture of what appeared to be some average looking trees. We wondered aloudーas we often doー
Within a minute of stepping off the bus in Ngong Ping Village, a group of fellow tourists stopped to take a picture of what appeared to be some average looking trees. We wondered aloudーas we often doー”what is that a picture of?” We took a couple more steps and saw what the fuss was all about.

Near the entrance to the village, this lone cow rested in the grass, then took a leisurely stroll down the path for some lunch, seemingly undisturbed by the visitors. Lantau Island has several feral cattle and buffalo who appear to be embroiled in a turf war with residential developers.
Near the entrance to the village, this lone cow rested in the grass, then took a leisurely stroll down the path for some lunch, seemingly undisturbed by the visitors. Lantau Island has several feral cattle and buffalo who appear to be embroiled in a turf war with residential developers.

There are 268 steps leading to the base of the statue, where a museum allegedly houses some of the remains of Buddha himself, Siddhārtha Gautama.
There are 268 steps leading to the base of the statue, where a museum allegedly houses some of the remains of Buddha himself, Siddhārtha Gautama.

Six bronze statues called The Offering of the Six Devas surround the Buddha, symbolizing the Six Perfections required for enlightenment.
Six bronze statues called The Offering of the Six Devas surround the Buddha, symbolizing the Six Perfections required for enlightenment.

At first, the Tian Tan Buddha didn't seem any bigger than the Great Buddha of Kamakura, but apparently it's three times taller. And, it's about 20 times taller than Viktoria.
At first, the Tian Tan Buddha didn’t seem any bigger than the Great Buddha of Kamakura, but apparently it’s three times taller. And, it’s about 20 times taller than Viktoria.

We bought some postcards at one of the shops in the village. the shopkeeper was wearing this Columbia t-shirt that read
We bought some postcards at one of the shops in the village. the shopkeeper was wearing this Columbia t-shirt that read “Oregon Rules.” We explained that we were from Oregon and he got a little sheepish, admitting he’d never visited and just thought the shirt looked cool. He was right!

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Day 24: Dragon’s Back

Hong Kong may be famous for its hoppin’ urban areas, but two-thirds of it is covered in natural areas. On Hong Kong Island, the 50 km (31 miles) Hong Kong Trail is a great way to experience forestland, beaches and awesome geology. We tackled the 8.5 km (5.2 miles) section known as Dragon’s Back, named by TIME magazine as the best urban hiking trail in Asia in 2004.


Most of Dragon's Back winds through wooded areas with some very colorful trees. The browns, oranges and whites on the bark of these trees reminded us of a giraffe's neck. Oh, and the silence... With all of the hustle bustle over the last couple of weeks, the silence of nature is deafening.
Most of Dragon’s Back winds through wooded areas with some very colorful trees. The browns, oranges and whites on the bark of these trees reminded us of a giraffe’s neck. Oh, and the silence… With all of the hustle bustle over the last couple of weeks, the silence of nature is deafening.

About halfway to the summit of Shek O Peak, the skies opened up and made the red clay paths a muddy mess. With the summit in sight, we encountered a puddle the size of a small pond that engulfed the path. Already soaked to the skin, we decided to forgo the swim and enjoy the near-summit views.
About halfway to the summit of Shek O Peak, the skies opened up and made the red clay paths a muddy mess. With the summit in sight, we encountered a puddle the size of a small pond that engulfed the path. Already soaked to the skin, we decided to forgo the swim and enjoy the near-summit views.

The views of Big Wave Bay and the South China Sea made the wet walk worthwhile.
The views of Big Wave Bay and the South China Sea made the wet walk worthwhile.

Established more than 200 years ago by local fishing clans, the quiet, colorful streets of Shek O Village feel a million miles from the city. The vibe was much like the coastal villages of Central America.
Established more than 200 years ago by local fishing clans, the quiet, colorful streets of Shek O Village feel a million miles from the city. The vibe was much like the coastal villages of Central America.

Finally! We'd been dying for a beach day on this trip and finally got one at Shek O Beach. Despite a decent-sized crowd, the beach was fairly quiet except for the occasional screams of from the kids being swept up in the waves on their inflatables. The otherwise calm waters were perfect for soaking the sore hiking muscles.
Finally! We’d been dying for a beach day on this trip and finally got one at Shek O Beach. Despite a decent-sized crowd, the beach was fairly quiet except for the occasional screams of from the kids being swept up in the waves on their inflatables. The otherwise calm waters were perfect for soaking the sore hiking muscles.

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Day 23: Hong Kong Past and Present

Our first full day in Hong Kong fell on a Wednesday, which just happens to be free admission day at the Hong Kong Museum of History. The very well-done museum begins 400 million years ago and ends with the transfer of sovereignty to China. The museum seems highly concerned with the loss of traditional Hong Kong culture and focuses much of its collection on customs and arts, such as these puppet heads used in puppet operas.


With Hong Kong's role as a major part of the global economic ecosystem, it's easy to overlook the fact that humans have been roaming the islands for 40,000 years. In addition to displaying artifacts like stone tools dating back thousands of years, the museum has also recreated scenes of daily life from the Neolithic era (10,200 BC - 2000 BC).
With Hong Kong’s role as a major part of the global economic ecosystem, it’s easy to overlook the fact that humans have been roaming the islands for 40,000 years. In addition to displaying artifacts like stone tools dating back thousands of years, the museum has also recreated scenes of daily life from the Neolithic era (10,200 BC – 2000 BC).

I've always loved watching traditional Chinese dragon dancing, especially when the coordination makes you forget there are people inside the costume. The museum offered several opportunities to get closer looks at many of the exhibits, including a pair of dragon models.
I’ve always loved watching traditional Chinese dragon dancing, especially when the coordination makes you forget there are people inside the costume. The museum offered several opportunities to get closer looks at many of the exhibits, including a pair of dragon models.

Several short films played in theaters throughout the museum, expanding on different parts of Hong Kong's history. One theater featured a film about the various traditional subgroups of people. The theater was decorated with representative clothing and artifacts from each group, including the lanterns which were an important part of rituals in many local villages.
Several short films played in theaters throughout the museum, expanding on different parts of Hong Kong’s history. One theater featured a film about the various traditional subgroups of people. The theater was decorated with representative clothing and artifacts from each group, including the lanterns which were an important part of rituals in many local villages.

Hong Kong's brilliant skyline is commonly listed among the world's best. It currently boasts the most skyscrapers of any city, featuring 66 more than second-place New York City. Traditional junk boatsーthe first ones appeared in the second centuryーstill sail in Victoria Harbor today, although they're now used more for serving expensive cocktails than trading goods.
Hong Kong’s brilliant skyline is commonly listed among the world’s best. It currently boasts the most skyscrapers of any city, featuring 66 more than second-place New York City. Traditional junk boatsーthe first ones appeared in the second centuryーstill sail in Victoria Harbor today, although they’re now used more for serving expensive cocktails than trading goods.

Waiting for the Symphony of Lights showーa light, laser and sound show starring the skylineーto begin. Although I can attest that we actually were there, the photo reminds me of the souvenir package we bought at the Sydney Opera House where we were photoshopped into various Opera House scenes.
Waiting for the Symphony of Lights showーa light, laser and sound show starring the skylineーto begin. Although I can attest that we actually were there, the photo reminds me of the souvenir package we bought at the Sydney Opera House where we were photoshopped into various Opera House scenes.

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Day 22: Hong Kong

With China in the rear-view mirror, we arrived in Hong Kong right around sunset after the second delayed flight of our trip. Our hotel is in the middle of the craziness that is HK’s Tsim Sha Tsui district.


Although we had plenty of time to get to the airport for our flight leaving Shanghai, we opted for the super-fast maglev train purely for the experience. The line is one of only two maglev trains currently in commercial operation (Japan has the other).
Although we had plenty of time to get to the airport for our flight leaving Shanghai, we opted for the super-fast maglev train purely for the experience. The line is one of only two maglev trains currently in commercial operation (Japan has the other).

Shanghai's maglev reaches a top speed of 431 km/h (268 mph), making the 30 km (18.6 miles) trip in about eight minutes. The ride was a bit bumpier than expected.
Shanghai’s maglev reaches a top speed of 431 km/h (268 mph), making the 30 km (18.6 miles) trip in about eight minutes. The ride was a bit bumpier than expected.

The view of the clouds rolling in over the mountains at Hong Kong International Airport made up for the fiasco of catching a bus to the city (honestly, who has exact change when they leave the airport?).
The view of the clouds rolling in over the mountains at Hong Kong International Airport made up for the fiasco of catching a bus to the city (honestly, who has exact change when they leave the airport?).

It's easier to find a shop selling traditional Chinese medicine in Hong Kong than it is a Western-style pharmacy. The shops also have large jars full of dried seafoods, commonly used in treatments. I'm not sure what any of these particular ones do, but we swear by Tiger Balm for everything from headaches to sore muscles to mosquito bites.
It’s easier to find a shop selling traditional Chinese medicine in Hong Kong than it is a Western-style pharmacy. The shops also have large jars full of dried seafoods, commonly used in treatments. I’m not sure what any of these particular ones do, but we swear by Tiger Balm for everything from headaches to sore muscles to mosquito bites.

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