Unique Japan

The Great Wave off Kanagawa

Every culture has its idiosyncrasies. Even after living in Japan for a year, I still learn something new nearly every day. Sometimes it’s an “a-ha” moment. Other times it’s something that I’m not sure I’ll ever get used to. Here’s five things that I’ve never experienced before living in the Land of the Rising Sun.

The Japanese take cleaning up after their dogs to another level
The Japanese take cleaning up after their dogs to another level

The Royal Treatment

Cleaning up after your dog isn’t unique to Japan. The production of poop pickup products is a multi-million dollar international industry. However, dog owners in Japan take it a step further. After the dog has done its business and the output is properly bagged, out comes the tissue. The dog instinctively props up its tail while the owner proceeds to wipe the offending area. There’s no question who’s boss in this situation.


The Shoshinsha and Kōreisha marks warn drivers about other drivers
The Shoshinsha and Kōreisha marks warn drivers about other drivers

The Scarlet Letter

Top: Shoshinsha mark for new drivers. Bottom: Kōreisha mark for elderly drivers.
Top: Shoshinsha mark for new drivers. Bottom: Kōreisha mark for elderly drivers.

Japan has one of the lowest rates of death related to traffic accidents in the world. Maybe part of this is due to the usage of untensha hyōshiki or driver’s signs.

New drivers are required to display the Shoshinsha mark for at least one year after getting their license. Drivers who are uncomfortable with their driving skills may also choose to display the sticker. The idea is to let other drivers know there’s an inexperienced driver in their midst.

On the other end of the spectrum, drivers over the age of 70 are encouraged to display the Kōreisha mark while drivers older than 75 are required to display the sticker. The design of the mark was changed from a teardrop shape to a four-leaf design in 2011 after many drivers refused to use the sticker because it resembled a dying autumn leaf.


A surprise in the bathhouse
A surprise in the bathhouse

An Unexpected Guest

For all of America’s exhibitionism, we’re actually quite prudish compared to the rest of the world. So, for this prudish American, I always have to do a double-take when I walk into a public restroom and there’s a female attendant cleaning up the facilities. But, this is nothing compared to a recent onsen experience.

Onsens are public baths—specifically natural hot springs—and are popular with both Japanese people and foreign visitors. They’re usually separated by sex with a changing room leading into the main bathing area where there are no bathing suits allowed. In fact, the phrase “hadaka no tsukiai” means “naked relations” and is considered an important part of the culture—interacting with literally no barriers.

After a long day in the Chichibu region recently, we visited an onsen in Yokoze. I walked into the men’s changing room where the fellas were disrobing for the onsen. A cleaning woman meandered through the crowd, wiping down benches and countertops. The men didn’t appear to be modest or even notice that she was there. In turn, she didn’t seem particularly interested in the sausagefest surrounding her.


Every street corner is a lost and found
Every street corner is a lost and found

Lost and Found

In a culture obsessed by cute knick-knacks and one that tends to get around on bicycle or foot, dropped items are a common sight on the sidewalk. But there’s also a great cultural element of trying to help the item find its owner. Lost items aren’t left on the street to be destroyed, but instead picked up and placed in a conspicuous place to hopefully be discovered later. Who actually grabs these items is a mystery, but I’ve seen things sit on a curb or bush for more than a couple days.

Even lost money usually finds its owner. According to the Tokyo Metropolitan Police Lost and Found Center, 72 percent of lost money brought to the center in 2002 was returned to its owner. That’s a total of nearly $23 million. Simply amazing!


Fire awareness is important
Fire awareness is important

Remember Fire? 

There’s a deep-rooted fear of fire in Japanese culture. It’s certainly not unwarranted. It seems nearly every important historical building has been destroyed by fire at least once in its history, including Kawagoe’s own Toki no Kane (Bell of Time). Fire prevention most definitely takes precedence over fire fighting.

During times of particularly fire-friendly weather, especially during the cold, dry winters, volunteers from the local fire brigade will walk up and down the street. They bang two wooden sticks together twice and shout “hi no yōjin” or “watch out for fire.”


Your Take

What do you think? Would you be offended by the driving stickers or shocked by the opposite sex attendant in the locker room? Leave your comments below.

Thailand

A view of Mu Ko Ang Thong National Marine Park in the Gulf of Thailand

After two weeks of adventuring through India and Nepal, we were ready for a little rest and relaxation. We spent the next two weeks meandering about Thailand, including a week of hanging out on the amazing beaches on the island of Koh Samui. The story of our travels through Thailand are best told through photos, so please enjoy a snapshot of the beautiful Kingdom of Thailand.

Relaxing in a cove near Lamai Beach on the east coast of Koh Samui
Relaxing in a cove near Lamai Beach on the east coast of Koh Samui

Buddhist statues outside Wat Lamai. The temple is home to a folklore museum  with artifacts from Samui's history.
Buddhist statues outside Wat Lamai. The temple is home to a folklore museum with artifacts from Samui’s history.

One of the waterfalls at Na Muang on the mountain in the center of Koh Samui
One of the waterfalls at Na Muang on the mountain in the center of Koh Samui

This rock is called the Hin Ta or Grandfather Rock. Can you guess why?! There's a Grandmother Rock equivalent. Tourists flock to take very inappropriate photos with this rock. Google it...
This rock is called the Hin Ta or Grandfather Rock. Can you guess why?! There’s a Grandmother Rock equivalent. Tourists flock to take very inappropriate photos with this rock. Google it…

Eating coconut ice cream made from actual coconut served in a coconut shell near Hin Ta on Lamai Beach
Eating coconut ice cream made from actual coconut served in a coconut shell near Hin Ta on Lamai Beach

Authentic phat thai (noodles) and curry. Eating local food is one of our favorite things about traveling.
Authentic phat thai (noodles) and curry. Eating local food is one of our favorite things about traveling.

A produce stand selling durian. Durian is a popular fruit in Thailand. It smells and tastes like trash. Literally, like garbage.
A produce stand selling durian. Durian is a popular fruit in Thailand. It smells and tastes like trash. Literally, like garbage.

Fisherman's Village in the Bo Phut area on the northern side of Koh Samui. Lots of hotels, food and souvenirs.
Fisherman’s Village in the Bo Phut area on the northern side of Koh Samui. Lots of hotels, food and souvenirs.

Finally some authentic street food! Egg roll and a fried rice ball in Fisherman's Village.
Finally some authentic street food! Egg roll and a fried rice ball in Fisherman’s Village.

A beach vendor selling bird wind chimes in Bo Phut
A beach vendor selling bird wind chimes in Bo Phut

Looking out at the tour boat that took us out to Mu Ko Ang Thong National Marine Park. The park is made up of 42 small islands.
Looking out at the tour boat that took us out to Mu Ko Ang Thong National Marine Park. The park is made up of 42 small islands.

Parts of the Leonardo Di Caprio movie "The Beach" were filmed in Ang Thong. Emerald Lake on Talay Nai played the role of "Blue Lagoon" in the movie.
Parts of the Leonardo Di Caprio movie “The Beach” were filmed in Ang Thong. Emerald Lake on Talay Nai played the role of “Blue Lagoon” in the movie.

Our home away from home for a couple nights. Ko Wua Talap on Ang Thong is packed with tourists during the day, but at night, there were just a handful of campers.
Our home away from home for a couple nights. Ko Wua Talap on Ang Thong is packed with tourists during the day, but at night, there were just a handful of campers.

The trees around our campsite were full of langur monkeys. You could hear them swinging in the trees all day and night.
The trees around our campsite were full of langur monkeys. You could hear them swinging in the trees all day and night.

Getting ready to head back to Koh Samui
Getting ready to head back to Koh Samui

On the Thai mainland, we did a homestay in Khiriwong Village, a quiet village near Khao Luang National Park outside Nakhon Si Thammarat.
On the Thai mainland, we did a homestay in Khiriwong Village, a quiet village near Khao Luang National Park outside Nakhon Si Thammarat.

On our second day in Khiriwong Village, we hired a local guide to take us hiking in the mountains. We did a homestay at his home where he'd built a couple small huts for guests.
On our second day in Khiriwong Village, we hired a local guide to take us hiking in the mountains. We did a homestay at his home where he’d built a couple small huts for guests.

After lunch, our guide took an hour-long nap near the waterfall. It was a little awkward...
After lunch, our guide took an hour-long nap near the waterfall. It was a little awkward…

In Bangkok, we visited Chatuchak Weekend Market, one of the world's largest weekend markets. Dinner included fresh mango, phat thai, egg rolls and fried quail eggs.
In Bangkok, we visited Chatuchak Weekend Market, one of the world’s largest weekend markets. Dinner included fresh mango, phat thai, egg rolls and fried quail eggs.

Food vendors lined the road by the main gate of Chatuchak Weekend Market
Food vendors lined the road by the main gate of Chatuchak Weekend Market

At Wat Pho, we visited the giant reclining Buddha. It's 50 feet tall and 150 feet long.
At Wat Pho, we visited the giant reclining Buddha. It’s 50 feet tall and 150 feet long.

The full length view of the reclining Buddha
The full length view of the reclining Buddha

A statue garden in Wat Pho showed the various positions of Thai-style yoga. Each pose targets a specific ailment.
A statue garden in Wat Pho showed the various positions of Thai-style yoga. Each pose targets a specific ailment.

We did a food tour of Bangkok's Old City and saw some things off the beaten tourist track, including the fresh produce at Trok Mor Morning Market
We did a food tour of Bangkok’s Old City and saw some things off the beaten tourist track, including the fresh produce at Trok Mor Morning Market

Sao Ching Cha, or the Giant Swing, was used in religious cermonies from the 1700s to the early 1900s. Participants would swing and try to grab a bag of coins off a pillar. The swing itself was removed in 1935 after several fatalities.
Sao Ching Cha, or the Giant Swing, was used in religious cermonies from the 1700s to the early 1900s. Participants would swing and try to grab a bag of coins off a pillar. The swing itself was removed in 1935 after several fatalities.

Our guide Chin runs Chili Paste Tours. If you're in Bangkok, it's a great way to taste some real Thai food and get away from the other tourists for a bit.
Our guide Chin runs Chili Paste Tours. If you’re in Bangkok, it’s a great way to taste some real Thai food and get away from the other tourists for a bit.

Bangkok's Nuttaporn has been making fresh coconut milk ice cream the old fashioned way for more than 60 years.
Bangkok’s Nuttaporn has been making fresh coconut milk ice cream the old fashioned way for more than 60 years.

Outside the Bangkok's famous Pak Khlong Talat flower market, vendors load a took-tuk full of chili peppers
Outside the Bangkok’s famous Pak Khlong Talat flower market, vendors load a took-tuk full of chili peppers

... unfortunately, they loaded it a little too full and the bags all tumbled out. It drew quite a crowd of locals.
… unfortunately, they loaded it a little too full and the bags all tumbled out. It drew quite a crowd of locals.

The iconic Wat Arun temple at night
The iconic Wat Arun temple at night

May Kaidee makes authentic Thai food that is completely vegetarian and teaches cooking classes at her restaurant in the Khao San area of Bangkok
May Kaidee makes authentic Thai food that is completely vegetarian and teaches cooking classes at her restaurant in the Khao San area of Bangkok

A statue of King Rama VI outside Lumpini Park, Bangkok's first public park established in the 1920s.
A statue of King Rama VI outside Lumpini Park, Bangkok’s first public park established in the 1920s.
A mirror selfie (melfie?) on the last day of our 33 day, three country adventure
A mirror selfie (melfie?) on the last day of our 33 day, three country adventure

Navigating by Star(bucks)

Navigating by Starbucks

I’m self-diagnosing a case of selective attention deficit disorder. It’s brought on my projects that aren’t particularly interesting to me. Treatments include watching baseball, going for a run or doing just about anything else.

I have a couple of those projects on my plate this week, so I decided to remove the distractions. I loaded up my computer and headed to Starbucks to work for a bit. There’s plenty of good workspaces around town, but the coffee giant is the only one that offers free WiFi.

The closest Starbucks in Kawagoe Station is usually crowded with commuters and since the station is our transportation hub, I wanted some new scenery. I pulled up Google Maps and plotted out some of the other shops in the area. That landed me in nearby Fujimino City.

Fujimino is the first stop on the express line toward Tokyo from Kawagoe Station, but we’ve never had reason to go there, so this was a good chance to explore the area a bit. I arrived around lunchtime and had plotted out a couple potential lunch spots.

The curry lunch set at Arcturus Cafe in Fujimino. The small shop has a couple tables in a greenhouse surrounded by flowers in bloom
The curry lunch set at Arcturus Cafe in Fujimino. The small shop has a couple tables in a solarium surrounded by flowers in bloom

I chose Arcturus Cafe, which I’m told by Wikipedia may be named for the brightest star in the Northern Hemisphere. Macrobiotic cafes like this are one of the few safe bets for a vegetarian meal in Japan.

I chose one of the two tables in the solarium at the back of the restaurant. Outside, rose bushes and other greenery pushed against the glass. I ordered the curry set. Japanese curry is available nearly everywhere, but it’s made with chicken, so it’s usually on the no-fly list. Potatoes and mushrooms took the place of the chicken. It was fantastic!

Arcturus also bakes its own bread using a naturally fermented yeast. The soup and salad set is served with fresh bread and coffee. I can’t wait to go back to try it.

The quiet surroundings of Starbucks in Fujimino offered a nice work environment
The quiet surroundings of Starbucks in Fujimino offered a nice work environment

After lunch, I headed to Starbucks to actually get some work done. The Starbucks is about 10 minutes from the station, so the crowd was pretty thin in the early afternoon with most of the customers coming through the drive-through.

A taste of home... beers from Newport, Oregon's Rogue Ales & Spirits
A taste of home… beers from Newport, Oregon’s Rogue Ales & Spirits

After I finished my work, I popped into the Aeon department store down the street. I remembered from a trip to the Aeon near Costco that they have a large liquor section with a decent selection of craft beers. Sure enough, they had three different choices from Oregon’s Rogue Ales & Spirits. I took one of each: Hazelnut Brown Nectar, Dead Guy and Shakespeare Oatmeal Stout.

I tried to make a joke with the cashier that both the beer and I were from the same place. She laughed and said a whole bunch of other stuff that I didn’t really catch. Can’t win ’em all…

My projects will keep me busy for a few more weeks and I plan to use my new method of navigating the area by Starbucks locations to find a few more new gems.

The Surgeon vs. The Sturgeon

Tsukiji Fish Market

The great thing about a city like Tokyo is that you never run out of things to see. After a brief Tokyo rut, we’ve recommitted ourselves to crossing things off the “to-see” list.

First item off the list was the historic Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo’s Chūō Ward. Tsukiji is a popular tourist spot, but it’s also a working wholesale fish market. Visitors rub elbows with local chefs picking through the freshest (in many cases, still alive) seafood in Tokyo.

A turret truck cruises through the narrow aisles of Tsukiji Fish Market
A turret truck cruises through the narrow aisles of Tsukiji Fish Market

Inside, hundreds of vendors crowd into a warehouse. The smell of the sea greets you from a block away. The aisles are narrow with just enough room for one-and-a-half people to pass through. Tourists alternate between snapping photos, sidestepping fish-water puddles and dodging the turret trucks that zip down the aisles. Old-school wooden carts roll through more slowly, loaded with some of the larger ocean fish and offering a hint at the origins of the market.

Catch of the day... it looks like I'm afraid someone's going to steal my fish!
Catch of the day… it looks like I’m afraid someone’s going to steal my fish!

Fish markets in Tokyo date back to the 1600s, but the current incarnation was built in 1935 after its Nihonbashi district predecessor was destroyed in the Great Kantō earthquake in 1923. In November 2016, the market will be moved to nearby Toyosu to free up the current location for development prior to the 2020 Tokyo Olympics.

The tools of the trade at Tokyo's Tsukiji Fish Market.
The tools of the trade at Tokyo’s Tsukiji Fish Market.

The butchers worked with surgical precision, carving the large fish into perfectly-weighted fillets and making paper-thin slices for sashimi (raw fish). Many used “knives” that more closely resemble a samurai sword than anything you or I have in our kitchens. The four-foot long blades made short work of the even the largest tuna.

The surgeon vs. the sturgeon. Did I mention this was a working fish market?
The surgeon vs. the sturgeon. Did I mention this was a working fish market?

After awhile, the aromas inherent in such a place started to take their toll on our stomachs. Occasionally I’ll come across Japanese food that makes me second-guess my vegetarian choices, but the fish market was not one of those places.

Cascadia-style coffee perfection at Kachidoki's Market of the Sun
Cascadia-style coffee perfection at Kachidoki’s Market of the Sun

We headed outside for some fresh air and a short walk over the Kachidoki Bridge to our very favorite farmers market in Japan. Market of the Sun is Japan’s largest regular farmers market and has the most unique selection of local produce, goods and snacks in Tokyo. We left with a couple varieties of honest-to-goodness rye bread and a hearty beet, both nearly impossible to find in our local area.

Looking down Monja Street on a quiet Saturday morning.
Looking down Monja Street on a quiet Saturday morning.

A couple blocks away from the market, we checked off another of our Tokyo to-dos with a visit to Monja Street. We’d first tried monjayaki during my birthday weekend in Asakusa. This two-block stretch of restaurants in the Tsukishima district features almost exclusively monjayaki and okonomiyaki shops.

Although it was proper lunchtime, most of the shops were still closed when we arrived. We found one with several people inside and ordered a monjayaki and an okonomiyaki—best described as savory Japanese-style pancakes. The waiter started our monja on the table-top grill, but we took care of the okonomiyaki ourselves. Check out the video below to see us in action!

Video: Making okonomiyaki on Monja Street

The Golden (Week) Rule

A small Buddha statue with several offerings on the Koburi Pass hiking trail

There’s only one thing anybody wants to know right now…

Did you do anything for Golden Week?

I’ll concede there’s a small chance this topic is only relevant among people living in Japan and, if it’s coming up in English, it’s only a hot topic among 0.01 percent of the population. But hey, that’s my demographic!

UN Farmers Market and Cinco de Mayo

We started our Golden Week with a weekend trip into Tokyo to visit one of our favorite farmers markets and hit up the Cinco de Mayo Festival at Yoyogi Park.

The latest edition of "True Portland"—a high-quality Portland, Ore. guidebook written by Japanese authors in Japanese—was released recently. The authors had a pop-up tent at the UN Farmers Market featuring Portland products like Jacobsen Salt and Fuller Foods Serious Cheesy Puffs.
The latest edition of “True Portland”—a high-quality Portland, Ore. guidebook written by Japanese authors in Japanese—was released recently. The authors had a pop-up tent at the UN Farmers Market featuring Portland products like Jacobsen Salt and Fuller Foods Serious Cheesy Puffs.

Oregon Beer Geeks is a company in Japan that imports beer from Oregon and sells it online. At the UN Market, they had two beers from Burnside Brewing and one from The Commons Brewery, both based in Portland.
Oregon Beer Geeks is a company in Japan that imports beer from Oregon and sells it online. At the UN Market, they had two beers from Burnside Brewing and one from The Commons Brewery, both based in Portland.

Lunch at the UN Farmers Market—a vegetarian take on Hawaiian plate lunch, a hummus and veggie bagel pizza and Burnside Brewing's "Too Sticky To Roll India Red Ale" and "Sweet Heat," an apricot and Scotch bonnet pepper wheat beer.
Lunch at the UN Farmers Market—a vegetarian take on Hawaiian plate lunch, a hummus and veggie bagel pizza and Burnside Brewing’s “Too Sticky To Roll India Red Ale” and “Sweet Heat,” an apricot and Scotch bonnet pepper wheat beer.

Tokyo's take on Cinco de Mayo is a lot like America's take—lots of drinking and sad Mexican-ish food. The best find was probably this Day of the Dead Porter from Mexico's Cerveceria Mexicana brewery.
Tokyo’s take on Cinco de Mayo is a lot like America’s take—lots of drinking and sad Mexican-ish food. The best find was probably this Day of the Dead Porter from Mexico’s Cerveceria Mexicana brewery.

Chichibu’s Hitsujiyama Park

Chichibu is our favorite place for outdoor adventures in Japan. It’s about an hour away by train and is usually pretty quiet. However, during Golden Week, thousands of people descend on the otherwise sleepy town to see the shibazakura or mountain phlox at Hitsujiyama Park.

Video: Mountain Phlox in Chichibu

Phans of the phlox phlocking to Chichibu (see what I did there?)
Phans of the phlox phlocking to Chichibu (see what I did there?)

The phlox fields at Hitsujiyama Park in Chichibu
The phlox fields at Hitsujiyama Park in Chichibu (click to zoom)

The heart of the phlox garden
The heart of the phlox garden

Mt. Buko sits in the distance
Mt. Buko sits in the distance

People sitting around the edge of the garden having a picnic and, in many cases, a nap
People sitting around the edge of the garden having a picnic and, in many cases, a nap

Tourists getting in the way of the view of the phlox :-)
Tourists getting in the way of the view of the phlox 🙂

Local Chichibu honey for sale at Hitsujiyama Park. A very large queen bee is inside each jar.
Local Chichibu honey for sale at Hitsujiyama Park. A large queen bee is inside each jar.

"Hitsuji" means "sheep" in Japanese and "yama" means "mountain," so the aptly-named Sheep Mountain Park should have a few sheep wandering the grounds. The local paparazzi went crazy for this one.
“Hitsuji” means “sheep” in Japanese and “yama” means “mountain,” so the aptly-named Sheep Mountain Park should have a few sheep wandering the grounds. The local paparazzi went crazy for this one.

A window in a home near the park proudly displaying its winnings from the UFO Catcher games
A window in a home near the park proudly displaying its winnings from the UFO Catcher games

Mt. Buko and a bright red neighborhood shrine. The scarring at the top of Mt. Buko is a result of heavy mining of limestone used for the ever-present construction in the larger cities.
Mt. Buko and a bright red neighborhood shrine. The scarring at the top of Mt. Buko is a result of heavy mining of limestone used for the ever-present construction in the larger cities.

After a day of walking, we went to an onsen (hot springs) in the nearby Yokoze neighborhood. This is proof that I can use chopsticks like a champ!
After a day of walking, we went to an onsen (hot springs) in the nearby Yokoze neighborhood. This is proof that I can use chopsticks like a champ!

Koburi Pass

We milked every last second out of Golden Week, heading out on the last day of the holidays to nearby Hanno for some hiking. We found a very non-touristy spot called Koburi Pass. We befriended a couple of older Japanese ladies at the train station, one of whom nearly missed the train when she went upstairs to get us some local sightseeing pamphlets.

Lots to see along the way, like this statue of Buddha playing a mandolin
Lots to see along the way, like this statue of Buddha playing a mandolin

These happy farm animals were painted outside a local butcher shop
These happy farm animals were painted outside a local butcher shop

Walking up the road to the hiking trails leading to Koburi Pass
Walking up the road to the hiking trails leading to Koburi Pass

Several small shrines appear along the path, like this one of the Seven Gods of Fortune (七福神). Hikers leave coins at each shrine for good fortune.
Several small shrines appear along the path, like this one of the Seven Gods of Fortune (七福神). Hikers leave coins at each shrine for good fortune.

A view of the Okuchichibu Mountains as we approached the top of Koburi Pass. Mt. Fuji was barely visible due to the cloud cover, but it's not at all visible in this photo
A view of the Okuchichibu Mountains as we approached the top of Koburi Pass. Mt. Fuji was barely visible due to the cloud cover, but it’s not at all visible in this photo

Lunch under the pagoda of Marishiten Temple.
Lunch under the pagoda of Marishiten Temple. 

From the very top of the pass, we could look over the entirety of  Saitama Prefecture. On a clear day, Tokyo Skytree is visible, nearly 50 miles away.
From the very top of the pass, we could look over the entirety of Saitama Prefecture. On a clear day, Tokyo Skytree is visible, nearly 50 miles away.

Springtime in Japan in all of its glory. The wisteria trees in bloom.
Springtime in Japan in all of its glory. The wisteria trees in bloom.

Viburnum plicatum is better known as the Japanese snowball.
Viburnum plicatum is better known as the Japanese snowball.

Mountain laurel is native to the eastern United States, but it found its way to Japan
Mountain laurel is native to the eastern United States, but it found its way to Japan

Koi swimming free in a stream near the train station
Koi swimming free in a stream near the train station

How did you spend Golden Week? Leave a comment below!

Shōwa Day

A young Emperor Hirohito in the lab

Japan celebrates Shōwa Day today, kicking off a series of holidays known as Golden Week. This year’s holiday comes with a healthy dose of controversy.

Shōwa Day marks the birthday of Shōwa-era emperor Hirohito, but less as a celebration and more as a time of reflection. It was during Hirohito’s reign that Japan invaded China, used toxic gas against its enemies and entered into a treaty with Fascist Italy and Nazi Germany leading up to World War II.

Abe, Abe and Obama: Prime Minister Abe (Ah-bay) with President Obama and at the (Abe) Lincoln Memorial (AFP-JIJI)
Abe, Abe and Obama: Prime Minister Abe (Ah-bay) with President Obama and at the Lincoln Memorial (AFP-JIJI)

2015 marks the 70th anniversary of the end of World War II. Japan’s current Prime Minister Shinzō Abe is in the United States, preparing to speak in front of a joint session of Congress—the first Japanese leader to address Congress since the end of WWII.

Abe is under fire from Chinese and Korean leaders for his “revisionist” views of Japan’s role in the war, in particular the sexual enslavement of women in Japanese military brothels. Previous Japanese prime ministers have offered up apologies, but Abe’s stance has hardened relations with Japan’s neighbors.

Abe and wife Akie at the U.S. Holocaust Memorial Museum with Holocaust survivors
Abe and wife Akie at the U.S. Holocaust Memorial Museum with Holocaust survivors (AP)

Abe’s U.S. visit also comes with positives. In addition to new trade and defense agreements, Abe toured the U.S. Holocaust Memorial Museum and used the opportunity to tell the story of Chiune Sugihara.

Chiune Sugihara has been called the "Japanese Schindler" for his role in saving thousands of Jews during the Holocaust
Chiune Sugihara has been called the “Japanese Schindler” for his role in saving thousands of Jews during the Holocaust

In 1939 and 1940, while Japan was aligning itself with Germany, Sugihara served as Japan’s Imperial Consul in Lithuania. During these years, he issued visas allowing more than 6,000 Jews fleeing the Nazi pogroms to travel to Japan.

He died in 1986, largely unknown in his own country, but a hero to many outside Japan. Prior to his death, he was honored with Israel’s Righteous Among the Nations honor, given to non-Jews who helped save refugees during the Holocaust. He has streets named for him in both Lithuania and Israel and asteroid 25893 Sugihara was named in his honor.

Nepal: Before and After

Young Buddhist monks-in-training having a little fun at Boudhanath
To donate to the relief effort,
see the links at the bottom of the post

When I started to outline the post about Nepal in my head, it felt like it’d be a quick rundown with some nice pictures. I really enjoyed Nepal as a country, but it came at the end of our exhausting tour of northern India. The travel sniffles had set in and we were ready for a couple days of relaxing.

On our first morning in Delhi, we took a walk through the neighborhood near our hotel. I remember seeing the residential buildings in varying states of decay and remarking that it was easy to see why earthquakes in the region cause so many deaths.

On April 25, 2015, a massive and devastating earthquake struck about 50 km outside of the capital city of Kathmandu. The 7.8 magnitude quake was followed the next day by a 6.7 aftershock. At the time of this post, the official death toll is over 2,500 and another 6,000-plus have been injured in Nepal, India and Tibet.

The fault line responsible for the quake is the same one that created the Himalaya mountain range, enough upheaval over millions of years to create nine of the world’s ten tallest peaks. The quake also occurred at a shallow depth; shallow quakes cause the most surface damage.

Boudhanath Stupa in Kathmandu when we visited in February
Boudhanath Stupa in Kathmandu when we visited in February
Cracks in the stupa of Boudhanath in Kathmandu (Photo by @JigmeUgen on Twitter)
Cracks in the stupa of Boudhanath in Kathmandu (Photo by @JigmeUgen on Twitter)

It’s a bit eerie now, looking through photos from our trip and reading the news coverage of the heartbreaking damage throughout the country. The stupa at Boudhanath, built shortly after the death of Lord Buddha, is the largest of its kind in the world. Buddha’s eyes can be seen from several vantage points all over Kathmandu. Today, the internet features images of large cracks in the 1,200-year-old stupa’s golden tower.

Extensive damage atop the Swayambhunath complex (Abhimanyu Chakravorty, Indian Express)
Extensive damage atop the Swayambhunath complex (Abhimanyu Chakravorty, Indian Express)
The stupa at Swayambhunath in February. The old shops and monastery residence building is still standing.
The stupa at Swayambhunath in February. The old shops and monastery residence building is still standing. The pagoda can be seen in both photos.

Swayambhunath, a 1,500 year old religious complex, sits atop a hilltop to in western Kathmandu. 365 stairs lead to the top and is a popular trek for religious pilgrims visiting the complex. Known as the Monkey Temple for the holy monkeys that inhabit the grounds, it’s a sacred site for both Buddhists and Hindus.

Several old brick buildings encompass the stupa, housing souvenir shops and residences for the monks living on the grounds. Amazingly, only one death has been reported in the Swayambhunath area. The brick buildings surrounding the stupa have been destroyed.

Pashupatinath Temple experienced little to no damage in the quake
Pashupatinath Temple experienced little to no damage in the quake

Karma’s sick and twisted sense of humor seems to have saved Pashupatinath Temple. Nepal’s answer to Varanasi, the sacred temple is open only to Hindus and Buddhists of Indian or Tibetan descent. Cremations take place all day inside the temple along the banks of the Bagmati River. Somehow, Kathmandu’s holy final resting place escaped Nepal’s deadliest earthquake in 80 years.

The spirit of the Nepalese people will get them through this difficult time, but Nepal is very much a developing country and will need a lot of help to get back on its feet. Rescue workers from all over the region arrived within hours of the quake and the international community is already hard at work on getting food and aid supplies into the country.

Please consider a donation to Mercy Corps or Public Radio International has a list of other charities who have been pre-vetted and are contributing to the relief effort on the ground.

Fighting For You! Election Season in Japan

This guy's fighting for the future of Kawagoe's kids (未来は子どもたちのために)

It’s been awhile since we’ve had a good Japanese mystery to investigate. A couple weeks ago, workers began installing long white boards all over town with squares numbered 1-50. A large date—April 26—appeared at one end with a whole lot of indecipherable Japanese surrounding it.

The election poster board, called kouei keji ba (公営掲示場) or public posting area
The election poster board, called kouei keji ba (公営掲示場) or public posting area

A few days later, nearly all of the boxes were plastered with election posters from all of Japan’s major political parties. It’s time to elect our local mayors (kuchō/区長) and assembly representatives (kugikai/区議会)! I say “our,” but as foreign citizens, we don’t get a vote. At least we have plausible deniability if it all goes south… “Not my kuchō!”

In addition to the posters, candidates ride around in vans with loudspeakers, sharing their message with the people. They wear white gloves as they wave out the window, apparently a symbol of honesty.

The posters themselves were pretty standard fare, although I did notice a couple of trends. First off, several candidates seemed to be taking the theme of “fighting for you” literally. I counted six posters with candidates raising clinched fists, ready to punch the opposition right in the face. Some of my favorites…


This guy will not only fight for us, but might also organize a pickup basketball game!
This guy will not only fight for us, but might also organize a pickup basketball game!

The next candidate had comic-style posters of him fighting for the people of Kawagoe on his website during the election. Kinda cool.

Manabu-san looks way too happy for someone who has spent 25 years working in Kawagoe City Hall (25年間川越市役所勤務の経験を市政に生かします!).
Manabu-san looks way too happy for someone who has spent 25 years working in Kawagoe City Hall (25年間川越市役所勤務の経験を市政に生かします!).

Misao-san took a slightly different route with the
Misao-san took a slightly different route with the “Who has one finger and wants your vote? This guy!” theme

Odaka-san has a bit of a "Um, I'll fight for you?" look about him, but as a local fire chief, and PTA president, he's got the goods.
Odaka-san has a bit of a “Um, I’ll fight for you?” look about him, but as a local fire chief, and PTA president, he’s got the goods.

The other prominent theme is the use of cartoonish representations of the candidates. It says “Look, I’m fun!” Some of the best…

Maki-san is bring
Maki-san is bring “a new wind to Kawagoe” (川越市政に「新しい風」を)

Tetsuya-san is a 53-year-old working in
Tetsuya-san is a “53-year-old working in full bloom” (働きざかりの53歳)

Kirino-san has doubled-down with the fist-pumping cartoon
Kirino-san has doubled-down with the fist-pumping cartoon

I'd say this is actually a fairly good likeness of Yamaki-san
I’d say this is actually a fairly good likeness of Yamaki-san

Mizuyo-san loves Kawagoe and apparently loves to bicycle as well
Mizuyo-san loves Kawagoe and apparently loves to bicycle as well

Sekiguchi-san looks a lot happier in his caricature than in his actual picture
Sekiguchi-san looks a lot happier in his caricature than in his actual picture

Life and Death: Varanasi, India

Fortunate are the People who Reside on the banks of the Ganga

We stepped off the boat, climbed a steep set of crumbling stone steps and entered the city’s dark back alleyways. The always-fragile electricity failed and everything went pure black. A few long seconds passed before the lights flickered back to life. Re-illuminated, several men carried yet another dead body past us, chanting “Ram Nam Satya Hai”… The name of God is truth

The chaos of a Varanasi evening as seen from the back of a bicycle rickshaw
The chaos of a Varanasi evening as seen from the back of a bicycle rickshaw

We followed one of the boat’s crewmen toward the center of the market,  the narrow alleys filled with eager shopkeepers trying to get your attention. A motorbike pushes through the crowd. We get stuck between a group of people—faces marked with colored powder—and a large bull. Whispers of “Hasish?” come from the shadows, preying on those looking for an additional perk on their spiritual journey.

It sounds like a scene from a thriller movie, but this was very much real life. Welcome to Varanasi, India—the world’s oldest city.

A City of Death

Varanasi is one of Hinduism’s three holy cities along the Ganges River. When a Hindu person dies, the family will transport the body to one of these cities for cremation and the ashes will be brushed into the Ganges. Hindu’s believe in reincarnation and that placing the ashes in the river will allow the soul to escape the cycle of reincarnation, setting the spirit free to move into the afterlife.

Varanasi's ghats, stone steps leading to the Ganges, are used for ceremonial bathing and cremations
Varanasi’s ghats, stone steps leading to the Ganges, are used for ceremonial bathing and cremations

In most Western countries, death is something to be hidden away. But in India, it’s very much a public affair. After a preparation period in the home, the body is transported to the city. The body is wrapped in a shroud—most that we saw were gold in color—and carried through the streets to the ghats alongside the river. The eldest son is in charge of the preparations and leads the processional.

Our tour guide gave us the option of visiting Varanasi’s famous ghats (stone staircases leading down to the Ganges) to view the cremations, which take place all day, everyday. I’m glad to have seen it as it offered an important look into the country’s culture, but it’s not something that you can really prepare to see. It’s simultaneously beautiful and disturbing.

Smoke from the previous day's cremations still smoke while piles of fresh timber are stacked for the next grieving familes
Smoke from the previous day’s cremations still smoke while piles of fresh timber are stacked for the next grieving familes

Out of respect to the grieving families, we were requested not to take photographs—and I believe human decency dictates this as well. The body is laid upon a wooden funeral pyre and covered in clarified butter (ghee), which is both a cleansing ritual and a practical method to help the body burn. The eldest son—who has shaved his head in a sign of respect to the deceased parent—lights the fire and performs rituals. He stays with the body until the fire has burned out. The ashes are brushed into the river and several more days of ritual follow.

I can remember vividly the sight of the body on the pyre. My stomach soured and clenched with the feeling of seeing something you shouldn’t see. The top of the head and the bottom of the feet were visible, reminding you that a person is inside the blazing fire.

A City of Life

As you move away from the Ganges, the city comes to life. Like most of India, tourism is a critical part of Varanasi’s economy with more than 3.2 million visitors—mostly Hindu pilgrims—coming through the city every year.

CW from Left: The famous Blue Lassi Shop serving yogurt-based drinks; the bustling city streets; a street vendor was making dosa from scratch
CW from Left: The famous Blue Lassi Shop serving yogurt-based drinks; the bustling city streets; a street vendor was making dosa from scratch

The first permanent settlements in the area date to the 12th century B.C. You can feel the history as you get lost in the narrow alleys packed with shops and food stalls. Varanasi grew in importance in the 6th century B.C. thanks to a burgeoning silk manufacturing industry, an enterprise that is still the city’s dominant industry 2,500 years later.

Our tour group sitting amongst the various scarves and blankets in Ganga Handlooms, a shop in the alleyways of Varanasi
Our tour group sitting amongst the various scarves and blankets in Ganga Handlooms, a shop in the alleyways of Varanasi

Our tour leader took us to one of the silk shops. Not unlike a carnival barker, the show is part of the sales experience. They bring out piles of beautiful, colorful fabrics. Your uneducated hands and eyes try to decipher which is rayon and which is silk, but guess completely wrong (hint: both scarves are rayon!). Burning the thread is the only way to tell the difference (silk singes like hair, rayon melts like plastic).

They pull out the silk and the cashmere and the really-nice cashmere, known as pashmina. Pashmina comes specifically from the inner wool of high-altitude Pashmina goats who shed their thick winter coats every spring.

Getting what's left of my hairs cut at an open-air Varanasi barber shop
Getting what’s left of my hairs cut at an open-air Varanasi barber shop

On our free day, we wandered the streets and eventually were befriended by a local shopkeeper. He gave us the nickel tour of the lesser-known sites along with his myriad of opinions on the state of the city and India as a whole. Along the way, we passed a barber shop set up in a tiny alcove in one of the alleyways. I mentioned wanting to get my beard trimmed and he offered to help orchestrate the transaction.

Granted, I don’t have many hairs left to trim, but the barber did a nice job, polishing off the experience with a variety of face creams and a post-trim face massage. When he finished, I asked our new friend how much I owed the barber. They bickered back and forth for a bit… the barber said the haircut was 25 rupees, but because I was a tourist, he felt like he could charge 50 rupees.

We encountered this many times along the way in what I considered to be a “win-win-win” situation. The barber feels like he can get double his regular fee because I’m a tourist. His “double” fee is about 80 cents USD, so I win because I just got a haircut for less than a buck. He wins because I think an 80 cent haircut is ridiculous and give him 100 rupees (because a $1.60 haircut is somehow not ridiculous).

  1. He wins.
  2. I win.
  3. Everybody wins!

Animal House

A little animal fun…

This dog and monkey were playing along the ghats
This dog and monkey were playing along the ghats
This cow was waiting for the bakery to open, but the shopkeeper strong enforced the "No shoes, no shirt, no service" rule
This cow was waiting for the bakery to open, but the shopkeeper strong enforced the “No shoes, no shirt, no service” rule
Bulls and goats just hanging out along the ghats on the Ganges
Bulls and goats just hanging out along the ghats on the Ganges

Mornings in Varanasi

And finally, the peaceful side of Varanasi can be found at 6 a.m.

Fire ceremonies called Aarti take place along the Ganges as a form of worship to Hindu's many deities
Fire ceremonies called Aarti take place along the Ganges as a form of worship to Hindu’s many deities
The sunrise on the Ganges was magnificent
The sunrise on the Ganges was magnificent
The morning sun cast a beautiful light on the ghats and buildings along the Ganges
The morning sun cast a beautiful light on the ghats and buildings along the Ganges
Fishermen are out before the sun, getting ready for their day's work
Fishermen are out before the sun, getting ready for their day’s work
Colorful boats along the banks of the Ganges wait for the sunrise
Colorful boats along the banks of the Ganges wait for the sunrise

In Bloom: Sakura

Sakura

For two magical weeks, spring boldly announces its presence all over Japan in the form of sakura—the blossoms of the Japanese cherry tree. Families and friends come together for viewing parties and everyone has a bit more pep in their step. Then, as quickly as they arrived, they begin to fall like snow, replaced by green buds and the promise of warmer days. Enjoy the view!

Sakura
Part of the large cherry tree grove at Kawagoe Aquatic Park

Hanami
Our own private hanami (cherry blossom viewing) at Kawagoe Park included homemade vegan sausages

Sakura Booze
Sakura-inspired beverages come and go as quickly as the blossoms themselves. Pictured are two sakura-flavored beers and a sakura-flavored rosé wine.

Sakura Cat
This fancy cat dressed up in her best pearls for the Nakameguro Sakura Festival in Tokyo

Sakura Dango
Tri-colored “sakura” dango—mochi balls on a stick—at Tokyo’s Nakameguro Sakura Festival

Sakura Sunset
The sun sets behind the sakura in Kawagoe Aquatic Park

Nakameguro Sakura Festival
Lanterns and blossoms at the Nakameguro Sakura Festival in Tokyo

Watch the video in full-screen mode to get the full sakura experience

Need more sakura? Check out last year’s last year’s pics too!