UNESCO

Miyajima

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We started our day before the day itself got underway, arriving at the Miyajimaguchi Pier ferry terminal just as the sun began to rise over Itsukushima Island. The ferry set sail right on schedule, carrying us through the morning mist hovering atop Hiroshima Bay.

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Sunrise over Hiroshima Bay and Miyajima

As we approach, the inspiration for the island’s popular nickname—Miyajima (Shrine Island)—emerges through the mist. First, the Great Torii, glowing in orange lacquer, appears just beyond the water’s edge. Then, the sprawling complex of Itsukushima Shrine and the five-tiered pagoda comes into view. It’s picture perfect.

The Great Torii of Miyajima appears in the morning mist
The Great Torii of Miyajima appears in the morning mist

The Great Torii and Itsukushima Shrine are both listed among UNESCO’s World Heritage properties, and for good reason. The Great Torii is in its eighth iteration, this one standing since 1875. Built from 500 year old camphor tree, the 16-ton gate rises nearly 55-feet into the air. Perhaps most impressively, it stands directly atop stones on the seabed instead of being buried into the ground. The weight of the wood and seven tons of fist-sized rocks hand-set in the roof keep the torii planted in place.

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We arrived early enough to be able to spend an hour or so walking around the torii with only a thin crowd joining us. At low tide, you can walk all the way through the gate, the seabed just firm enough from the dried mud and seaweed. We snapped photos from every angle imaginable. We offered to take photos for strangers who offered the same in kind. A quiet and peaceful morning in a tranquil place.

In fact, we arrived so early that none of the shops on Miyajima’s shopping street had opened yet. Around 9 a.m., we finally spotted a cafe propping its doors and stopped in for coffee. Continuing down the street, we tried some of Miyajima’s famous maple leaf cakes and spotted one of the island’s novelties: the world’s largest rice scoop. A Korean dance group set up near the ferry terminal, the rhythmic beat of their drums audible all over the island.

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As the crowd thickened, swarming in every 20 minutes via the ferry, we sought higher ground. The Uguisuhodo Nature Walk trail climbs steadily into the heart of the island, finally meeting up with the Miyajima Ropeway station. The cable cars graze the treetops on their way to the top of Mt. Misen.

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Mt. Misen’s Observatory offers panoramic views of Hiroshima Bay and the surrounding islands. Temples and shrines dating back to the 9th century sit just below the mountain’s summit, full with tales of miracles circulating around Daisho-in Temple’s founding monk, Kobo Daishi.

One of the most popular attractions is Kiezu-no-hi or The Eternal Flame. It is said to have been lit by Daishi himself in 806 AD and continues to burn to this day. Water boiled in a tea kettle over the flame is thought to hold magical healing powers. The flame itself was used as the pilot light for the Peace Flame that burns in Hiroshima’s Peace Memorial Park.

While the torii and the shrines are the main draw, Miyajima might be just as famous for its wild deer. After living with generations of tourists, the deer are mostly docile and don’t really care about the thousands of people walking through their home. However, when feeding time comes, they turn into quite a nuisance, digging into bags or just swiping things out of people’s hands. As we watched the sunset, a deer with a cataract came up and snagged our map of the island out of our bag. He chewed it and swallowed it down, his creepy cloudy-white eye staring at us the whole time.

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Miyajima Firewalking Ceremony

In a moment of travel serendipity, we happened to land on Miyajima on the day of Daigan-ji Temple’s Hiwatari-shiki or Firewalking Ceremony. The ceremony is only held twice a year, once in April and once in November.

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The temple’s monks go through an hour-long ceremony, building a towering bonfire fueled by thousands of wooden stakes—offerings left throughout the year by worshippers. They smooth the coals several times over with long bamboo poles as the flames rise and fall. Purifying salt is thrown over the flames and pine branches laid at either end of the inferno. There’s chanting, a conch-shell horn and a lot of theatrics.

As they near the end, one of the monks begins an intricate final dedication, writing Japanese characters in the air with his arm. Suddenly, as the fire returns to its peak, the monks run through one by one. With the drawn out ceremony, the haste of the climax is almost shocking.

Once the flames die down and only the hot coal remains, visitors are invited to partake in the ceremony. The line wrapped around the temple as tourists passed over the coals one by one.

Video: Miyajima’s Firewalking Ceremony

Day 36: Illuminating The Past

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Even in historic locales, it’s sometimes hard to get a feel for life in days gone by. The endless barking of souvenir vendors selling smartphone accessories and the dodging of motorbikes are a reminder that you’re in a modern-day tourist area. But when the sun goes down in Hoi An, a sense of what was begins to emerge. The vendors head home to their families, the commute slows and the lanterns that lit the streets 500 years ago illuminate a revived town.

That moment you realize you've taken the same picture roughly 20 times is when you know you're seeing something special. Our memory card is full of variations of Hoi An street scenes. The bright colors, interesting angles and haunting lighting is a photographer's dreamーeven for point-and-shooters like us.
That moment you realize you’ve taken the same picture roughly 20 times is when you know you’re seeing something special. Our memory card is full of variations of Hoi An street scenes. The bright colors, interesting angles and haunting lighting is a photographer’s dreamーeven for point-and-shooters like us.
Just after breakfast time, the small cafes began to empty out and the streets quieted before the daily rush of tourists arrived. This knick-knack vendorーstill in his pajamasーcaught a few winks during the downtime.
Just after breakfast time, the small cafes began to empty out and the streets quieted before the daily rush of tourists arrived. This knick-knack vendorーstill in his pajamasーcaught a few winks during the downtime.
Ornate decorations floated all along the Thu Bon River, including this one depicting Maudgalyāyana, a disciple of Buddha, emerging from a lotus flower.
Ornate decorations floated all along the Thu Bon River, including this one depicting Maudgalyāyana, a disciple of Buddha, emerging from a lotus flower.
The Japanese Covered Bridge was built sometime in the 1700s, linking the Japanese and Chinese merchant settlements in Hoi An. A small Buddhist temple is attached to the bridge, the only one of its kind in the world.
The Japanese Covered Bridge was built sometime in the 1700s, linking the Japanese and Chinese merchant settlements in Hoi An. A small Buddhist temple is attached to the bridge, the only one of its kind in the world.
A moment of serenity in the streets of Hoi An.
A moment of serenity in the streets of Hoi An.

On the ides of the lunar month, the electric lights in the ancient town are turned off and all motorized traffic is blocked, leaving only the lights of the lanterns. We visited in between these holidays, but just a regular night in Hoi An is a close replica.

Nice by day...
Nice by day…
...and nicer by night!
…and nicer by night!
The lanterns at this shop were a big tourist draw for shoppers during day and photographers at night.
The lanterns at this shop were a big tourist draw for shoppers during day and photographers at night.
A boy on a bike coasts through the lantern-lit streets.
A boy on a bike coasts through the lantern-lit streets.

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Day 34: Hoi An

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The UNESCO World Heritage town of Hoi An, located on the South China Sea, is a snapshot to another era. It’s location made it an ideal trading port for much of the last millennium, but political changes and changes in river conditions in the late 17th century turned Hoi An into a ghost town.

As a result of its loss in status, it became a forgotten part of Vietnam’s evolution and remained untouched for much of the next two centuries. Thanks to this preservation, the city now draws tourists from all around the globe looking for a glimpse of life in old Vietnam.

 

We knew our tour group would be making the trip from Hue to Hoi An on a public bus, but we were all surprised when a luxury coach showed up. Complete with reclining lounge seats and a complimentary bottle of water, it was a far cry from the #17 city bus from the airport in Hanoi. Sure enough, we picked up and dropped off passengers all the along the four-plus hour route.
We knew our tour group would be making the trip from Hue to Hoi An on a public bus, but we were all surprised when a luxury coach showed up. Complete with reclining lounge seats and a complimentary bottle of water, it was a far cry from the #17 city bus from the airport in Hanoi. Sure enough, we picked up and dropped off passengers all the along the four-plus hour route.

 

 

The bus route passed through several small towns, offering a glimpse of the daily workday. Several people were raking out rice on the sidewalks and even into the streets to separate it from the stalks. I've read that the rice stalks are placed in the streets to allow passing cars to act as a grain thresher, separating the rice from the stalks.
The bus route passed through several small towns, offering a glimpse of the daily workday. Several people were raking out rice on the sidewalks and even into the streets to separate it from the stalks. I’ve read that the rice stalks are placed in the streets to allow passing cars to act as a grain thresher, separating the rice from the stalks.

 

 

The noi la (conical hats) and carrying poles are still everyday tools for street vendors in Vietnam. Three ladies in Hoi An's old town were selling fruit and thought I needed to try the gear on for size. I overpaid for some mangos and lychee afterward, figuring the extra amount was for the fun memory.
The non la (conical hats) and carrying poles are still everyday tools for street vendors in Vietnam. Three ladies in Hoi An’s old town were selling fruit and thought I needed to try the gear on for size. I overpaid for some mangos and lychee afterward, figuring the extra amount was for the fun memory.

 

 

The Thu Bon River is still an important part of Hoi An. Fish are cleaned and sold at the public market on the rivers edge, but the river is mostly packed with tourist boats. We met an old boatsman named Captain Dan who promised to show us pictures of all of his American friends if we came back for a boat trip the next day.
The Thu Bon River is still an important part of Hoi An. Fish are cleaned and sold at the public market on the rivers edge, but the river is mostly packed with tourist boats. We met an old boatsman named Captain Dan who promised to show us pictures of all of his American friends if we came back for a boat trip the next day.

 

 

The Hoi An Market Water Well is among the many tourist sights in the city, but we were more amused by the blatant disregard for the posted rules sign which clearly states both
The Hoi An Market Water Well is among the many tourist sights in the city, but we were more amused by the blatant disregard for the posted rules sign which clearly states both “Please do not sit on the well” and “Please do not park your motorcycle.”

 

 

Many of the old buildings have been repurposed for restaurants and shops, but still maintain the original architecture and external wear unique to coastal towns. Like Hanoi's tube houses, the buildings in Hoi An have layouts unique to the city. The shop fronts the street with living quarters sandwiched between two courtyards behind it. The back of the building has a storage room facing the river, making it easy to load products out of the boats directly into the shops.
Many of the old buildings have been repurposed for restaurants and shops, but still maintain the original architecture and external wear unique to coastal towns. Like Hanoi’s tube houses, the buildings in Hoi An have layouts unique to the city. The shop fronts the street with living quarters sandwiched between two courtyards behind it. The back of the building has a storage room facing the river, making it easy to load products out of the boats directly into the shops.

 

 

When we returned from exploring the old town area, these three little girls were riding their bikes in the parking area of our hotel. When we asked to photograph them, the girl on the left jumped into action. Clearly the ringleader, she got them all into position for the photo. The girl on the right followed along, but the girl in the middle didn't quite trust us...
When we returned from exploring the old town area, these three little girls were riding their bikes in the parking area of our hotel. When we asked to photograph them, the girl on the left jumped into action. Clearly the ringleader, she got them all into position for the photo. The girl on the right followed along, but the girl in the middle didn’t quite trust us…

 

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Day 33: A Day in Hue

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Dong Ba Market, located in Hue on Vietnam’s central coast, has existed in one shape or form since the late 1800s. The indoor portion of the market is packed with crafts and kitchenware, hawked by some very aggressive vendors. Outside, fresh vegetables and fish are sold with a lot less vigor. 

Our guide woke us up early on the overnight train from Hanoi to Hue as we approached the Ben Hai River, better known as the demilitarized zone that separated North and South Vietnam. A group of women were already hard at work, repairing the area near the railroad tracks.
Our guide woke us up early on the overnight train from Hanoi to Hue as we approached the Ben Hai River, better known as the demilitarized zone that separated North and South Vietnam. A group of women were already hard at work, repairing the area near the railroad tracks.
Women working on the train tracks near the Ben Hai River.
Women working on the train tracks near the Ben Hai River.
Happiness is a cool fan, or two cool fans in this case. A brief reprieve from the humidity at a restaurant near Hue's Imperial City.
Happiness is a cool fan, or two cool fans in this case. A brief reprieve from the humidity at a restaurant near Hue’s Imperial City.
For the most part, the locals haven't paid much attention to us, but these two young Buddhist monks-in-training kept shooting us glances while we ate. They were happy to oblige when we asked to take a photo. We were drawn to their unique haircuts. When the boys enter the monastery, their heads are shaved with the exception of three distinct areas. As they pass different milestone exams, a section is shaven off. The last tuft of hair can grow quite long as they strive toward the final exam.
For the most part, the locals haven’t paid much attention to us, but these two young Buddhist monks-in-training kept shooting us glances while we ate. They were happy to oblige when we asked to take a photo. We were drawn to their unique haircuts. When the boys enter the monastery, their heads are shaved with the exception of three distinct areas. As they pass different milestone exams, a section is shaven off. The last tuft of hair can grow quite long as they strive toward the final exam.
A building inside Hue's Imperial Palace. The palace was heavily damaged during the Tet Offensive in the Vietnam War. Of the 160 buildings in the complex, only 10 survived the battle. The remaining buildings were added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1993 and restoration work continues to this day.
A building inside Hue’s Imperial Palace. The palace was heavily damaged during the Tet Offensive in the Vietnam War. Of the 160 buildings in the complex, only 10 survived the battle. The remaining buildings were added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1993 and restoration work continues to this day.
A golden dragon statue inside the Purple Forbidden City section of the Imperial Palace. Similar to the Forbidden City in Beijing, the area was restricted to only the imperial family.
A golden dragon statue inside the Purple Forbidden City section of the Imperial Palace. Similar to the Forbidden City in Beijing, the area was restricted to only the imperial family.
The Purple Forbidden City's courtyard. The two round bushes to either side of the garden are trimmed in the shape of turtles.
The Purple Forbidden City’s courtyard. The two round bushes to either side of the garden are trimmed in the shape of turtles.
A princess in the Imperial Palace.
A princess in the Imperial Palace.
Only parts of the Imperial Palace have been restored. In a few places, we could see the stark contrast of what was and what will be.
Only parts of the Imperial Palace have been restored. In a few places, we could see the stark contrast of what was and what will be.
Hearing about the other side of the Vietnam War has been one of the more fascinating parts of this experience. Outside the Imperial Palace, a museum displays captured U.S. artillery and aircraft like trophies, listing the dates and locations when they were taken by the Communist-led People's Army.
Hearing about the other side of the Vietnam War has been one of the more fascinating parts of this experience. Outside the Imperial Palace, a museum displays captured U.S. artillery and aircraft like trophies, listing the dates and locations when they were taken by the Communist-led People’s Army.
While I snapped pictures outside the military museum, Viktoria was making friends with some kids playing soccer in the shadow of Thuong Tu gate, one of the entrances to the outer grounds of the Imperial Palace known as the Citadel. One boy acted as the group's spokesman, telling us they were 14 years old and in the eighth grade at a school down the road.
While I snapped pictures outside the military museum, Viktoria was making friends with some kids playing soccer in the shadow of Thuong Tu gate, one of the entrances to the outer grounds of the Imperial Palace known as the Citadel. One boy acted as the group’s spokesman, telling us they were 14 years old and in the eighth grade at a school down the road.
A Mary Poppins moment along the Perfume River.
A Mary Poppins moment along the Perfume River.
This pretty much sums up pedestrian life in Vietnam.
This pretty much sums up pedestrian life in Vietnam.
Garlic, ginger, shallots, hot peppers and lime. I hoped whomever bought this lady's veggies at Dong Ba Market would invite us over for dinner!
Garlic, ginger, shallots, hot peppers and lime. I hoped whomever bought this lady’s veggies at Dong Ba Market would invite us over for dinner!
A typical transaction in Dong Ba Market between a vendor in a nón lá (conical hat) and a scooter rider.
A typical transaction in Dong Ba Market between a vendor in a nón lá (conical hat) and a scooter rider.

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